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dozeydustman

Saab 93 WBOD - £250 or roffle £4.50/£8 for 2

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2 hours ago, stonedagain said:

Have you checked the boost sensor? If it's comes up, it can give similar symptoms as a coked up egr valve.

I have all that to investigate. More important is the cam belt and water pump for the time being. I was told it was changed last year. When I had the manifold off it was quite obvious it was an oldish belt. We're not due to go massive amount of miles in it in the next few month and I will probably start using my bike for work soon.

Meanwhile I've had a look at the Air con. Bridging the HT side of the relay socket makes the interior nice and cold. I get a 12v feed from the dash, but it's the connection to ground that is lost, but we have continuity between the LT ground and the battery, so I have no idea why the relay won't energise. Taking it off the car and putting 12v through it and it clicks, so this isn't the fault. What I may do is just get a couple of spade terminals from an shop and bridge the HT side permanently. I can't go another summer with a boiling hot car! I have bullets, I have female spades and I have eyes, but no male spades!

I may take the under bonnet fuse box out and run a separate earth from the LT side of the relay to a good clean earth, as it may be a break in the wire somewhere. The pump isn't siezed or noisy though, which is a good thing.

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Today's tinkering has been caught short as the wife needs the Saab and madam is going out with who/whatever she is currently dating meaning some of my jobs scheduled for today are no longer on the cards and I'll be left to my own devices with sod all to do instead.

At least I got the EGR changed on the Saab

IMG_7639.thumb.JPG.3c988095b66a5afb2aad0935b5c18257.JPG

Spot the difference. Despite cleaning the old one before I did the MOT it sooted up very quickly again and the solenoid has failed. £29 part from eBay WCPGW?

IMG_7640.thumb.JPG.09f4d68c301c361773788640cc3580f4.JPGIMG_7641.thumb.JPG.dbbf4d034a90d37b930f50b193af0391.JPG

Borrowed a code reader from workmate, I'll have to see if I can get one of these for myself as it's one of very few that seem to work on the car. Cleared.

£10 splash & dash and a real good rag up to Rowlands Castle and back has restored performance, a re-gen occurred (first since mid-June) which only lasted about 15 mins instead of the 30-45 before I sorted the manifold, and minimal smoke on acceleration means we're good for a little while yet.

Tomorrow's plans have been cancelled, so weather dependent I'm hoping I can do the cam belt etc. Though I bet I end up needing to order more parts

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Some investigation this weekend during an unexpected trip to see my very ill nan in Kent and resultant impromptu overnight stay with my parents, dad and I did some investigations of the air con not working this morning and the intermittent lack of power that has plagued me since a week or so after the MoT.

The new EGR had worked itself loose despite being torqued up to what the HBOL says is correct. Redone the bolts up to just nipped tight with a dab of thread lock should prevent this again. Injector No.4 wiring had worked itself loose; I think it was still connected but dad lockwired this in place while I was nipping up the EGR bolts.

Did a code read, P0400 is still showing, and comes back immediately after clearing as does the EML; I do get that EGR 'Whoosh' every now and then so I would say the valve is at least partially working. Doing some googling it could be anything in the exhaust system that's causing this. There's also a lot of turbo lag so thinking waste gate is knackered? I'm going to test the EGR off the car anyway just to make sure the solenoid is working; it's brand new but that doesn't mean anything with car parts now.

Air con. The low tension side of the relay isn't switching at all. The LT out from the relay goes to the switch via something; the cabin switch does make the dash display AC OFF so I don't think it's that. The annoying thing is it worked for the first 3 months I owned the car and it means it's a dicky connection behind the dashboard or in the engine bay. TBH, I may just wire a switch into the relay's socket which is mounted in the dash somewhere so I can switch the air con on and off inside the car.

The clonking noise from the O/S F still needs investigation. I'm off later this month for my 3rd wedding anniversary so what better way to 2 days of the week of than tinkering with my old shitheap (wife only has 3 days off!)

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Do you have climate control? If so, unlikely Aircon to be a connection behind the dash as the front electric module is what does the switching over the CAN network. I wouldn't wire up permanently as it needs to cycle the compressor as it reaches max pressure, drops and then reruns the compressor. 

How are your vacuum lines? If not replaced, they're possibly perished in the engine heat and leaking. Get a length of silicone pipe off eBay and replace them if necessary. 

Injector connector can be had not too expensive either. A repair kit exists as the injector connector for cyl 3 usually fails on these. Or just carry on tie wrapping it. 

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16 hours ago, SiC said:

Do you have climate control? If so, unlikely Aircon to be a connection behind the dash as the front electric module is what does the switching over the CAN network. I wouldn't wire up permanently as it needs to cycle the compressor as it reaches max pressure, drops and then reruns the compressor. 

How are your vacuum lines? If not replaced, they're possibly perished in the engine heat and leaking. Get a length of silicone pipe off eBay and replace them if necessary. 

Injector connector can be had not too expensive either. A repair kit exists as the injector connector for cyl 3 usually fails on these. Or just carry on tie wrapping it. 

Yep this car has automatic climate control, I've found online that holding in recirculate and auto is supposed to reboot the system, though it's made no effect. I think I'll have to get it Tech-2 looked at. Vacuum lines were in good condition when I did the manifold swap, now you've mentioned them I'm wondering if I've got them swapped round the wrong way to the reservoir on the back of the manifold. I'll take a look later this week. Could also be that they've come off, but I can't hear any hissing noises from under the bonnet.

15 hours ago, jonathan_dyane said:

Is it that the relay isn’t being earthed? The earth is ecu switched so if this is the case it means that either there is another fault causing the ecu to disengage a/c or for some reason it needs activation on Tech 2.

Given that every now and then the whole car has an electrical hissy fit it wouldn't surprise me if the ECU has an intermittent fault. Sometimes the driver's door won't lock when the zapper is pressed, then other times the front passenger door won't lock; it'll have a moment where it will default the trip computer to 40.7MPG and 150 miles of range irrespective of tank level, then the next time it'll be back to what it was beforehand. I'll have the local independent Saab specialist have a look and see if it's been deactivated (and probably get bumraped in the wallet for the pleasure).

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The software in these cars is pretty buggy. Often problems could be resolved by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes to reboot it. Mine needed it every so often as it sometimes wouldn't go to sleep on key out. 

Door lock modules failing TADIS. My front passenger side was getting very intermittent not long before it got written off. 

Mine would also forget the trips MPG on key out and revert to a previous startup reading next time. Again TADIS. Buggy software. MPG computer is separate from the engine ECU, but works out it's reading from the ECU over the can bus. Also wildly optimistic at times. I could get it reading 60mpg, but actually only did 48mpg when I calculated it from fuel fill.  

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Yeah mine was a right old carry on with the door lock modules. There are 3 working ones in the box you collected last week, but I was never convinced it wasn't the ECu not sending the right message to the modules rather than the modules themselves, as the issue was intermittent. I got to the point that I knew one didn't seem to like hot days, and one didn't like cold days, and it was incredibly rare for all 4 to work at the same time, but lived with it. Replacement is actually quite easy once you've done it once, the module comes out the door handle hole on the outside, but for christ sake make sure it works before refitting the door card and closing the door.

Often my DTE would read zero miles or the MPG would go to zero too. It'd recover but as SiC says, buggy software. Considering how little it actually has to do its a bit shit - A linux PC of equivalent vintage would perform way more varied work way more reliably, but then thats the evil influence of GM I suppose.

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2 hours ago, SiC said:

The software in these cars is pretty buggy. Often problems could be resolved by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes to reboot it. Mine needed it every so often as it sometimes wouldn't go to sleep on key out. 

Door lock modules failing TADIS. My front passenger side was getting very intermittent not long before it got written off. 

Mine would also forget the trips MPG on key out and revert to a previous startup reading next time. Again TADIS. Buggy software. MPG computer is separate from the engine ECU, but works out it's reading from the ECU over the can bus. Also wildly optimistic at times. I could get it reading 60mpg, but actually only did 48mpg when I calculated it from fuel fill.  

 

1 hour ago, Stanky said:

Yeah mine was a right old carry on with the door lock modules. There are 3 working ones in the box you collected last week, but I was never convinced it wasn't the ECu not sending the right message to the modules rather than the modules themselves, as the issue was intermittent. I got to the point that I knew one didn't seem to like hot days, and one didn't like cold days, and it was incredibly rare for all 4 to work at the same time, but lived with it. Replacement is actually quite easy once you've done it once, the module comes out the door handle hole on the outside, but for christ sake make sure it works before refitting the door card and closing the door.

Often my DTE would read zero miles or the MPG would go to zero too. It'd recover but as SiC says, buggy software. Considering how little it actually has to do its a bit shit - A linux PC of equivalent vintage would perform way more varied work way more reliably, but then thats the evil influence of GM I suppose.

 

Disconnecting the battery only seems to cure the jam sensor in the electric windows when they play up! The MPG calculation isn't far off what I work out doing some basic number crunching -  ±1-2 mpg most of the time. Door locks tend to give out when it's very very hot, so I'll have a ferret about in the doors on my few days off later this month, provided swapping the cam belt etc doesn't get over-involved with too much bother. I've had the door cards off before to replace window switches, while I'm at it I'll check the door shut fuse box for blown fuses as a lot of this has appeared since the mirror fold button stopped working for no reason whatsoever. Could be pure co-incidence - electrics on this car are even more French than a French car.

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Spent some time this afternoon looking for the clonking noise that got suddenly worse on the way back from taking the Mrs over to Bognor this afternoon. Jacked car up, nothing that I had replaced has lost its torque save the o/s/f calliper, even then it only needed a tiny nudge to get it up to its full 155Nm. There's a little free play at the strut top so they may need changing for the next MoT.

As I lowered the car down I heard a clonk from inside the engine bay. O/S engine mounting had worked itself loose. It's all torqued up no and there's no undue rattles now save a light knock from the strut top mount.

Performance has been restored by remaking the EGR connection; I will look at blanking this off at some point, especially as I've got through 3 in 4 years of owning the car.

I'm just waiting for the alternator belt to arrive then I can change the cam belt, this may have to wait until next week; I need the car on Saturday all day, and I can't risk something going wrong or needing another part if I start the job tomorrow.

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Re the EGR valve constantly breaking. I’ve had a number of these engines all with constant EGR issues requiring them to be stripped and cleaned. 

 

I found a guide guide online which shows you how to strip and clean the black electrical solenoid of the EGR which previously I’d never delved into. 

 

It required a 4mm drill bit and 4mm punch which you used to hammer out it’s internals, clean them and de-rust it and put it back together. Both times they ran like a dream afterwards. For some time. 

 

Might be worth a google and try and try next time the EGR sticks . 

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2 hours ago, Fraz said:

Re the EGR valve constantly breaking. I’ve had a number of these engines all with constant EGR issues requiring them to be stripped and cleaned. 

 

I found a guide guide online which shows you how to strip and clean the black electrical solenoid of the EGR which previously I’d never delved into. 

 

It required a 4mm drill bit and 4mm punch which you used to hammer out it’s internals, clean them and de-rust it and put it back together. Both times they ran like a dream afterwards. For some time. 

 

Might be worth a google and try and try next time the EGR sticks . 

That is useful to know, I've got one sitting in the garage that I took off recently and I know it works (or tries to) when I've put 12v across the terminals.

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As I will have an unexpected new chariot within the next week or so, my ownership of this beastie must come to an end. I will certainly miss her as she's done me well over the last 4 and a half years, and if I come across another cheap Saab which isn't fucked, I'll certainly show interest.

I'm thinking it'll make a great WBOD for someone; unsure of price just yet, but with 6 and a half month's MoT, a few spares and a roof rack I purloined off Stanky it will do someone a good turn.

For Sell details etc to follow as I need to get the private plate retained and give it a bloody good clean, valet and photographs.

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Rightyho.

With a new smoll green car incoming soon, I need to sell on the Saab. MoT mid-may 2020 I've seen similar ratbags on Bumtree, Faceache marketplace etc for around £300. How does £250 to a shiter sound for a WBOD? May Roffle at £4.50 a ticket/£8 for two if there's enough interest. Will be available once the private plate is back on retention, which should be no later than middle of the month. Will keep taxed until end of October, will be kept in the garage. 207,500 miles on the clock

The good:

  • 48-60mpg (indicated)
  • Half-leather interior (Vector trim) IN BEIGE
  • Comfy long distance cruiser
  • Cruise control works
  • 7 months MoT
  • New EGR
  • All previous faults have been dealt with re: charging and EML.
  • Comes with about £100 of new spares, a fitted roof rack and a box of bits and pieces Stanky salvaged from his since departed 9-3
  • Parrot hands free kit.
  • Fair amount of history and service records.

The Bad:

  • Cup holder is broken
  • battered and bruised
  • Air con doesn't work
  • Sometimes the turbo lags, sometimes it's fine. Doesn't bring up a fault code so possibly a vacuum line (I may look into this)
  • Parrot kit is a bit crap.

Answers on a postcard please. Photos to follow once it's stopped sodding raining so I can vacuum the interior!

 

 

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Just to get the ball rolling

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I am now the custodian of this fine vehicle following a deal being struck with[mention=5176]gadgetgricey[/mention] you can follow it's progress (or not) over on my thread

 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://autoshite.com/topic/33908-floatylights-fleet-saab-shanigigans-picasso-plight/&share_tid=33908&share_fid=68430&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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