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dozeydustman

Saab 93 - Smuts and knocks. Also fridge.

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List of jobs:

  1. Limp mode - faulty accelerator pedal? Also read somewhere it could be swirl flaps - Need to clear EML to see if working manifold stops it coming on. I'm not ruling out dodgy pedal position sensor either.
  2. Fault with MAF sensor circuit - replaced, no faults 
  3. Excessive smoke - clean the manifold, EGR & turbo? - use non-supermarket diesel helps, as does a bloody good run 2-3 times a week. New fannymold installed with swirl flaps and actuator. Much cleaner running.
  4. Headlamp washer jets piss water everywhere when washer reservoir is full - New inline valve fitted and has reduced the flow but not stopped it.
  5. Ditchfinder rear tyre - It's legal, it's not knackered, it can stay for the time being
  6. Dashboard mounted cupholder is broken (this is high on the wife's priorities, not mine, but worth mentioning)
  7. Few bits of interior trim missing.
  8. Sluggish starting, though possibly caused by not having had a good run for at least a month now and glow plugs are kaput.
  9. Air Con buggered - Still not looked at this, project for this summer. If it MoTs ok.
  10. Exhaust is boomy when hot - coming from exhaust manifold where swirl flap isn't seating properly.
  11. Need to find which ABS sensor is causing the system to register a fault every now and then - using a calibrated airline when I checked the tyre pressures seems to have sorted this.

Leak off kit arrived today and has been fitted, no apparent leaks which is a first for me working on a diesel system. A lot less cold start smoke which was nice. Quick blat around the block and bloody hell the acceleration is so much smoother and quicker. A lot less chod out the exhaust as well - still a little smoke but it's probably nothing a new air filter and a good run will sort.  Only problem is the MoT ran out yesterday, so I can't really go for a longer drive for a proper shakedown test. It was booked in with dad's tame mechanic for today, but the unexpected leak-off kit problem meant I had to cancel.

 

With all this hard work I've been rewarded with the O/S indicator repeater not working and a number plate light crapping out. Just wondering if I've missed out an electrical connection somewhere with the repeater, as the bulb appears to be fine. ABS fault has disappeared and showed no signs of wanting to come back on around my estate - normally end of the cul-de-sac and it's on.

 

As the Corolla needs urgent work on it I'm concentrating on that so the Saab may get SORNd soon and so I can go through it with a fine tooth comb.

 

It was hard work, but with hardly any shite coming out the back end now, hopefully it'll be roadworthy for a couple more years at least.

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Thats good news, well done! Let me know if you want me to come over with the Delphi to clear the EML

 

If you're able to pop over at the weekend that would be great. I'm hoping I can get it booked in for next week.

 

Trying to find the O/S indicator repeater wiring where it joins the main loom. Any ideas? I'm baffled why this has stopped working, didn't even touch it.

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Should be fine, let me check with the head of operations and I'll confirm via PM later on.

 

Not sure re the repeater, have you swapped the actual unit over from the other side to rule that out?

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Should be fine, let me check with the head of operations and I'll confirm via PM later on.

 

Not sure re the repeater, have you swapped the actual unit over from the other side to rule that out?

Not swapped yet. Still could just be a dodgy bulb (filament appears to be good), so I'm off over the garage now with the multimeter to see if it's getting power. I think I have a spare 5w peanut in amber somewhere.

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Repeater is a crusty bulb holder. Ideally needs new one. Bulb very difficult to get out and given the amount of gack on the terminals it was rusted in place.

 

It's working. At the moment.

 

I think all I need to do is see what is triggering the ABS fault. Thinking broken wire somewhere. Should be ready to MoT once that's done.

 

Or I get the garage to fix it.

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Get the code scanned for the ABS before trying going any further. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the rear left side sensor at fault. If so, probably the wiring chaffed through.

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Get the code scanned for the ABS before trying going any further. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the rear left side sensor at fault. If so, probably the wiring chaffed through.

 

If Stanky can make it over this weekend then hopefully we can diagnose the fault and I can make the repair. I need to invest in a Saab compatible code reader that doesn't arrive DOA like the 2 I ordered last year did.

 

MoT is booked for Wednesday.

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getting there slowly... Good luck with the MOT 

 

I get 2-3 hours an afternoon after work to car tinker, cook the dinner and do some of the housework. It has been slower than ideal progress I admit. Just grateful I have a garage in which to work! 

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I literally wrote this like 9 years ago now. But well worth inspecting the wiring.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.saabscene.com/forum/threads/140622-ABS-fault-Rear-Left-Wheel-Speed-Sensor%3famp=1

 

That is my plan for Sunday. If I can get my monstrously fat fingers in there.

 

Warning hasn't been on so far since I got it running and driven quite legally* around the estate.

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If speed dependant it could be the reluctor rings. However as it's been drier the wiring may just be working enough, so still could be that.

 

The wiring is clipped on that section and can be pulled off quite easily. This allows easy inspection of it. Focus on the sections that have bends in them.

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If speed dependant it could be the reluctor rings.

 

I think it's a positional thing as I went over to the garage about half an hour ago, turned the key and the light didn't go out after she started up. I don't get the range, MPG and speedo oddities I have seen.

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Done a little bit of fettling today with Stanky of this parish trying to find out what the ABS code is on the Saab, and to see if there are any other electrical maladies that I can fettle before the test on Wednesday.

 

ABS fault is "N/S/F wheel sensor poor connection or shorting to ground", so either it's dirty, dying or deaded. Fiddling with a multimeter it showed open circuit on all resistance ranges with no continuity, neither of us were sure what resistance is correct for these, but open circuit isn't good. Wiring up to ABS module appears to be in good order.

 

Another code was flagged up - P1109 - which doing some (insert search engine here) shows swirl flap actuator fault, but no EML light on. I'm hoping it's where I just put the new unit on and can be programmed with a Tech2. Maybe even the MoT station could do this for me if I ask nicely. I am wondering should I whack on the old actuator as I believe it was still working and it's original to the car. I did think about this when I replaced the manifold. Then again, can I be bothered with the complete shitty job of removing that oil separator?

 

Just stopping for lunch then I'll make sure that all the bolts and nuts I had been faffing with over the last week and a half are up to torque, I can't see much else wrong underneath the car as all the suspension bushes and ball joint gaiters are good, so with any luck just the ABS sensor means a pass.

 

Stanky many thanks for popping over with your box of magic, shame we weren't able there and then to fix it but that's what happens sometimes but at least I can tell the garage that's the problem. Let me know if you need a hand with anything in the future.

 

Saabnut - many thanks for the loan of the timing lock kit. I'm going to order a water pump once the MoT is done and change it then if that's ok?

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Glad we got the codes cleared as far as we could, and at least proved that the Front Left ABS sensor was what was upsetting the ABS and TCS on the bing bong display. Frustrating though that the sensor is so deep embedded in the hub - couldn't have been more different to the Celica which was incredibly easy to get at.

 

Let us know how the test goes, I reckon getting that sensor replaced will keep all the errors quiet enough to get a ticket sorted. Have you had a look at prices for the sensors?

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Glad we got the codes cleared as far as we could, and at least proved that the Front Left ABS sensor was what was upsetting the ABS and TCS on the bing bong display. Frustrating though that the sensor is so deep embedded in the hub - couldn't have been more different to the Celica which was incredibly easy to get at.

 

Let us know how the test goes, I reckon getting that sensor replaced will keep all the errors quiet enough to get a ticket sorted. Have you had a look at prices for the sensors?

Embedded because Vauxhall in drag!

 

Sensor alone I’ve come across for about £30, a whole hub assembly is about £50 with the ABS gubbins, no brainer really. It’ll have to be done by the garage - I don’t have any tinker time today and it’s in tomorrow.

 

Can’t find the farty booming noise either.

 

Providing there’s nothing else major wrong with it!

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Meh!

IMG_7257.thumb.JPG.0e57a013b392f54280e764fd2b900ced.JPG

I was expecting the ABS fault and possibly the exhaust as it started booming after Stanky came round. That test centre does not like pressed metal plates (they've got a BS kitemark on them, they're fully compliant). Droplinks are service items. Emissions is hopefully just needing a new air filter, ECU telling it has a new swirl flap motor and forced DPF regen once I've done the flexi. I want to query the exhaust smoke test as by the time I'd got it home and sitting in the garage there was no smoke at all at tickover, which has pissed me off a little. Yes it smokes when cold, what diesel doesn't? I'm annoyed that it shat its exhaust though. The garage couldn't fault my work replacing the manifold.

 

Now it's time to price up some parts....

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Just now, Stanky said:

Hmm, worse than I thought. Did they give a price on replacing the ABS sensor? Whats the plan for the other bits? Deal with them yourself then retest it?

They didn't price up the ABS sensor, or any of the other work, but they have said they can order the bits in I need to do the job myself if I can't get them at reasonable cost. And I can use their 4-post lift if needed which is a bonus.  I'm doing some number crunching and window shopping to see how much bits will cost me.

I can't do the ECU reprogram but the garage can send it to someone with a Tech-2 to do this. 

For clarity, the garage I sent it to don't actually MoT the car themselves, they send them down the road. Wife's been using them for years because their labour rate is quite cheap.

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Yeah, thats the issue - I don't know anyone with tech2 so its always a case of paying a garage to do it. In the past I've let a few jobs stack up and got them all done in one hit as its the same price at my local indie Saab chap

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I spoke to the local Saab specialist and he said the P1109 code is failed swirl flap actuator motor - they don't need programming to the car, so check connection (it may be bad) or swap motors. Regarding the emissions he doesn't recommend a forced regen on such a high mileage engine as it can be quite brutal. What he did say is remove DPF and blast it through with a jet washer or steam cleaner. I might just try that.....

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This car continues to test my patience. As I've got a new CV boot and a droplink already, and they're both on the offside I thought I'd change them this afternoon after work as quick(ish) jobs.

Topped up PAS fluid as that was low and now the steering is smooth.

 

IMG_7265.thumb.JPG.32565ff972ec012468afd3a06fedc7eb.JPGIMG_7266.thumb.JPG.ed1358c68fb916e0a604bdd22b9869e8.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll agree that yes those boots are buggered.

IMG_7267.thumb.JPG.ad6f5db5fe322d0b607750b8e0f3bc52.JPG

That hex hole in the top of the drop link is/was made from cheese. It rounded out before I'd got the nyloc nut off. Bottom one came off fine. Even a pair of pump pliers with very sharp teeth holding the threaded portion behind the locknut was doing sod all, so I need to find my hacksaw and cut the bastard off. I don't have electric in my garage, nor do I have an angle grinder or other battery powered chopper.

Turned my attention to the driveshaft gaiter. Last time I changed a hub on this car the hub nut was 32mm. The offside has a non-standard 34 or 36mm nut on it, and I don't have a socket for these. The N/S has the correct 32mm nut. Looks like I need to order one of those as well.

I can't find the exhaust leak, the flexi in the main system isn't blowing when I had my hand around it; the flexi from the EGR to the exhaust manifold isn't blown, but there is exhaust somewhere in the engine bay. I phoned the test centre up and they conveniently can't remember where the leak was from. Wankers.

TL:DR - I wasted an hour and half of my afternoon and I'm pissed off.

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A smoll update, which is guaranteed to thrill*.

One of the fitters lent me a rattle gun and 36mm socket to get the non-standard O/S/F hub nut undone. It didn't come off without a fight and was basically rattling all the way to the end of the thread.

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Made light work of both hubs, I must invest in one of these.

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I don't like the look of that thread at all on the stub. FFS. Looks like whoever took this side apart last was using something heavy to what it with. I'm hoping I can chase the threads back. I don't want to be buying an new CV tulip or driveshaft.

IMG_7278.thumb.JPG.dbb9c9d7e93b273dcc5622f1fc70eb06.JPG

Offside is proving an absolute bastard to dismantle; every bolt has siezed or rusted into place including the caliper mounts. I've given everything a good dose of plusgas and/or WD40 (as I only had cans with dribbles of each in them).

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Nearside is proving fine as I had this apart 2 years ago to change the hub when the bearing died, and I reassembled with a thin smear of copperslip on some of the bolts especially on bolts that act as a pivot or get rubbed. I don't remember it being a complete twat to get apart last time, so god knows what's happened to the driver's side. Bottom balljoint bolt is out but I have sadly run out of time for today as I have guests coming over for dinner in just over an hour. Tomorrow I plan on removing the nearside wishbone, swapping the hub assembly.

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