Jump to content
dozeydustman

Saab 93 - Smuts and knocks. Also fridge.

Recommended Posts

I'll have a poke around with the multimeter at the weekend. I'm not busy and the mrs is out helping her friend choose a rescue cat. As long as she doesn't come home with one as well I'll be happy.

I bought a code reader from eBay but it arrived DoA and won't charge up, so looking to get a refund there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm tempted by this. Anything I should look for if I go and take a look? Half the mileage of mine. Ideally I'd want to see it running in the car just to make sure no blue smoke or OMGHGF etc.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAAB-93-9-3-VECTOR-1-9-TID-2006-ENGINE/273361267586?hash=item3fa599eb82%3Ag%3A8a8AAOSw4GFbTiL-&_sacat=0&_nkw=saab+diesel+engine&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xsaab+diesel+engine.TRS0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll have a poke around with the multimeter at the weekend. I'm not busy and the mrs is out helping her friend choose a rescue cat. As long as she doesn't come home with one as well I'll be happy.

 

I bought a code reader from eBay but it arrived DoA and won't charge up, so looking to get a refund there.

The cheap code readers are unlikely to be able to read the ABS codes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cheap code readers are unlikely to be able to take a charge and actually work

 

 

FTFY

 

I've had 2 turn up that have crapped out on me. Hopefully Stanky is still coming to the mini meet on 25th with his magic box.

 

Got a few small jobs I can be getting on with tomorrow on this car, might just unplug the wheel sensors on both sides and follow your guide SiC - I've had naff all car tinkering time the last couple weeks due to weather, work and some issues with stepdaughter that have taken priority over everything else. Still not found the swirl flap actuating rod, hopefully I can either bodge the loose one back in or remove it completely with everything in situ as I have some quite long long nosed pliers.

 

Regarding that engine on the fleabay, had some more in depth looks at it and it looks like it's a dog. Didn't notice the smashed up timing cover, but there are other things like a bent dipstick tube and things that look a bit broken which to me would say it's been taken out of something that's had a front end smash or a bit of rough handling being extracted from the car. Another will turn up that isn't a stupid price, especially if I search for Vauxhall ones not Saab.

 

Would an XUD fit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As noted on the Grumpy thread Saab died on way home from work. Nursed it home with no power steering and unable to open windows to give a hand signal.

 

Something is eating all the electricity coming from the alternator. Spent a good hour since I got home checking connections within easy reach and earthing points, all are good.

 

14v direct from alternator, only 12.1 at the battery so charge light comes up. Done the usual switching things on and off to see if there is a difference in voltage. Nada.

 

Come to the conclusion that either the main ECU is up the shitter, or there is a short or broken wire in the loom somewhere. It has got to the point that I got to do some serious number crunching and see whether it's replace or repair time. I think this may be the cause of the EML coming on and off at random, and the ABS/ESP/TC randomly not working.

 

Good points:

Economical, comfy, goes like shit off a shovel

 

Bad points:

Mysterious electric gremlin, needs swirl flaps doing, tapping noise (intermittent) from top end.

 

not sure where the main ECU is; don't really want to spend too much as this might not be the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

14v direct from alternator, only 12.1 at the battery

Unless electrickery on cars has changed massively in the couple of years between the newest car I've worked on and yours, there should be just a fat cable going between the B+ terminal on the alternator and the +ve post of the battery (although it may go via other places on the way), so to drop two whole volts between the Alt and Battery means there is something very wrong with that cable, or your battery has internally shorted and is dragging current like a bastard.

 

I've no idea of the layout in your car, but can you trace that cable, and where it goes and what it connects to on the way? I syspect you'll find something chafed almost completely through, or very badly corroded. Quite what, I'm not sure, but there's something quite wrong there, and it's fairly basic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am going to whip the battery out, give it a charge, then get it tested. It's only a few months old and has guarantee, I'm really hoping it's not that, but in a way I also am hoping as it's an easy fix.

 

The big wire from the alternator goes via the starter according to the "typical wiring diagram" the HBOL has. If I can find a decent diagram instead of Haynes' old tripe then it gives me a better chance of finding a bad connector or fault. Could be the starter motor or solenoid if this diagram is correct.

 

The main part of this sub-loom appears to go round the back of the engine, then under it, then back across it, then over it, then disappears somewhere else before it gets to the battery.

 

Could just run a feed directly from the alternator to the battery.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right, battery is on charge, though it's either i) not totally flat as the charge rate is extremely low or ii) knackered as the "charged" indicator on the (borrowed) charger has been flashing on and off after 10 minutes of being on. Must get it tested tomorrow just to rule this out.

 

Been probing with my ancient multimeter set to continuity. Trying to trace the wire from the alternator to see where it ends up before going to battery. I may have a short somewhere. Component, frayed wire - not sure yet as I need to poke around a bit more. One probe fixed into the +ve battery lead and poking around seems to reveal that anywhere EARTHED makes continuity. Jiggled some parts of the loom but made no difference. B+ terminal of alternator direct to battery +ve clamp shows NO continuity.

 

Think I'm going to need to spend a couple more hours looking for this one - I'm used to proper cars with mechanical engines and only 5 wires! A decent wiring diagram would help instead of the crap in the Haynes' manual with its 'typical' layouts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

And I've replied :D

 

The weird thing is the 2 volts dropped on route to the battery, which would suggest a part is draining somewhere, the battery is kaput, or there is a short. I'm thinking the last of those three as there shouldn't really be any connection to an earth from the battery positive!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get similar things happen when I test components on my old consoles and build electronic things. I'll report back with the battery diagnosis tomorrow afternoon. Starting to have brainfarts now which means I should go to bed.

 

But I'll still be commenting on here at half 10 no doubt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Battery tested, it's still good, so that rules one item out.

 

Reconnected it to the car via an ammeter. 250mA initially when connected, soon dropped to below 50mA when electricity had weedled its way through the car (about 3 seconds).

 

Reconnected car properly, cranked over, initially again only 12.1v at the terminals, but after putting a good load on - full beam, heater, radio, anything else I know takes a lot of power, voltage shot up to 13.4v.

 

Turned all this off and then voltage stayed steady at 12.9v. Went for a 5 mile drive, got back, measured voltage at battery with engine running, still at 12.9v, going up to 13.1v after a minute or so.

 

I'm wondering if there's a bad or iffy connection somewhere that needs a bit of extra power to make it good, so this week is going to be spent looking (again) at all the earthing points around the car, possibly add a couple of earthing straps between engine and body if needed.

 

Had a theory though. A few months back all of a sudden the passenger side mirror just folded itself in on its own, and the button to fold/unfold no longer works. The driver's side mirror that hadn't adjusted or folded electrically also started working. Just wondering if this has something to do with it. There's no sound of an electric motor trying to move anything at any time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How easily can they be disabled? Since its the sort of thing that you set right once then leave forever is it worth just disconnecting the electrics to them both once set to the right position? Even just for good measure?

 

EDIT - if this gets bridged, can I put in a speculative request for the swan-neck bit of the washer bottle if its not totally broken like mine is? Sorry if its a bit too soon, but you know sometimes threats help with these sort of issues. go and mutter to it that it had better buck its ideas up because the vultures are already circling sort of thing...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How easily can they be disabled? Since its the sort of thing that you set right once then leave forever is it worth just disconnecting the electrics to them both once set to the right position? Even just for good measure?

 

EDIT - if this gets bridged, can I put in a speculative request for the swan-neck bit of the washer bottle if its not totally broken like mine is? Sorry if its a bit too soon, but you know sometimes threats help with these sort of issues. go and mutter to it that it had better buck its ideas up because the vultures are already circling sort of thing...

 

 

I think it's just a case of pulling the fuse but I'll check later when I've had supper. Could always just pull the connections out the doors behind the trim.

 

Bridge is my last resort. Ideally I want to use the car until the MoT runs out in April then offer as spears and reapers it to another shiter for similar money than weigh it in. WBAC offered me £15 including the private plate (valued at £500), so they can FRO. If I can sort this issue out for pence then I'll spend a few quid sorting the emissions and EML fault(s)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you certain the alternator is putting out 14v at the terminals? As it's pretty much a direct feed, it should be going through. Double check that the cable from the alternator to starter is clean and fixed properly. Maybe even run a feed directly from the alternator to the battery terminal too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you certain the alternator is putting out 14v at the terminals? 

 

 

13.9 on my digital, 14 on my swing-needle meter.

 

 

Double check that the cable from the alternator to starter is clean and fixed properly. Maybe even run a feed directly from the alternator to the battery terminal too.

 

 

First thing I checked earlier - everything appears to be nice and secure. Latter is an idea I've been mulling through my head. The waggling of the negative lead tends to make the meters fluctuate as opposed to the positive, which is why I'm going to give the earthing points a going over. Again. And add extra earth straps if needed. Still not ruling out a failing component taking a higher than normal load.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried putting a jumper cable between the engine block and battery negative terminal? Makes a nice chunky ground path.

 

If the alternator terminal is putting out 14v, the battery should be at that level too! The alternator to battery link should be so low impedance that for something to be dragging it down that low, it'd be getting incredibly hot.

 

My suspicion is highly on the positive link from the alternator to starter to battery. Or a bad earth from alternator to battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Hooli

I don't know if I said it earlier but check the alternator is earthing to the engine correctly too. I had that once years ago & took me ages to find.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never had an alternator fail in 44 years (obviously I am a lucky sod) BUT I did once buy a car that wouldn't charge: 14volts at the alternator gave 12volts at the battery. This was because the alternator was mounted via rubber bushes and the earth strap between alternator and engine was U/S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Hooli

I have never had an alternator fail in 44 years (obviously I am a lucky sod) BUT I did once buy a car that wouldn't charge: 14volts at the alternator gave 12volts at the battery. This was because the alternator was mounted via rubber bushes and the earth strap between alternator and engine was U/S.

 

That was the issue I had on a Manta.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By BoggyMires
      Now in my mucky hands is this S Type Mondeo Lincoln. It's not like a Mondeo Lincoln  though, just uses some of the bits as it's from a time when jaguar was experiencing some 'technical' issues. 
      It has managed to hang onto the feel of a premium car but for the use of cost saving interior plastics made from the same gear that land Rover used in the discovery 2 of the same era, I know, I have one of those too! That has some BMW switches in it though.
       
      This jaag was cheap. Why did I buy it? All I wanted really was a small convertible for the summer to smoke around in, this is the polar opposite. 
      The price was good but these cars are without their expensive issues. I liked the body. It's virtually rust free, a freak of nature and it had a set of premium tyres on it which suggested it's had some money chucked at it.
       
      That's all I wanted really from it. The bolt on stuff and mechanicals are fairly easy to sort out, plus I can upgrade as I feel fit.
       
      Today I've been bonding with this machine. It's got to beat the 3 series I have as a good daily or it's out. It's going to be a tall order, the 318 is bionic!
       
      I have many miles to do in the next few months, I need a motorway cruiser auto. The odd jaunt for a few hundred miles is the 318's and my clutch legs limit!
       
      Now, this car has been owned previously by a few members on here, the work it requires is because it is a cheap car and 20 years old and has a jaguar badge on it. There are a few issues with it.
       
      As said, it has to be put into immediate service. I've owned it 2 days and it's already done over 300 miles, and will do all that again tomorrow! So let's get started!
       
      After about 100 miles yesterday, I reversed it for the first time in my ownership and when braking the noise was alarming! Had a look and the outer rear brake pad was metal on the disc. I only had another 60 miles to go!
      A phone call on the move saw a set in stock back home to be picked up. Sweet.
       
      That was yesterday, I've got a day now to change the rear pads and sort out the dropped headlamps with a couple of screws... A couple of hours it'll be Sorted... He says...
       
      WIND BACK CALIPERS! Yes, they are. My special tool? Sorry? What? No tool?
      Well, I cobbled together a bar and a pair of molies but Christ, that was messing about! I wanted to secure the caliper to the mounting to hold it still but the sliders internal thread was cross threaded on both sliders, so I had to tap them out first. It worked but not without a fight. Then my neighbour came over to have a nose at the new aquisition... Him: Morning, how you getting on"?, Me: "Shit, you haven't got a brake caliper tool have you"? Him: "Yeah, I'll go get it". 
       
      LIFESAVER!!!
       

       
      Sticky slider syndrome ^
       

       
      Fully padded up ^
       
      I took a look around under there, it's nearly all shot. Most ball joints are exposed to the elements so all need replacing but not before a decent jet wash.
       

       

       
      There's little play in the joints so all that goes on the list of parts and graft! Wheels on, I loosened and torqued all the wheel nuts around the car and done the Tyre pressures, we were running soft all round.
       
      Next was the front lights. A screw mod can be done but I took the back off the units and they were, well toast. Nothing much holding the inner lenses still at all. There was only one thing for it...
       

       
      I had readied myself for this. I got hold of a replacement lamp mounting kit with all parts made from nylon. This involved dissecting the lamp which was tough! The mounts that came out, or what was left of them were weaker than Jacobs crackers and just crumbled. To get the bumper off, the plastic under tray bolts were all seized so I had to grind them off. More knackered parts were seen. The auto box cooler has shed most of it's cooling fins, the radiator is sweating and the power steering is hemorrhaging fluid on full lock. There's also a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and there's a high pitch whine at 1000 RPM which turns out to be the alternator. More for the list.
      Still, back to the lights. I need to be able to see tonight so I took a level off the tourings lights and marked on to a wheely bin, these are pretty spot on. Then I can use the bin for the Jaags lights and I won't be far off 
       

       
      Going back together nicely it was a good time to run some tcut over the faded lenses. They need a more intense compound and a machine but will do for now.
       

       
      Looks smart yo!
       
      Then it got dark...
       

       
      I then drove 120 miles in it and drove it like it was stolen. It had it, all of it! Slight brake judder at 90 and I couldn't get the alignment done as I had no time (see above pics)
       
      So now we have to price up priorities like the knackered joints on the rear and a full service, two Goodyears and investigate the power steering leak which, I'll hazard a guess at the rack seals are fubard. 
       
      So in summary, I got a bargain barge that has it's fair share of issues, the interior quality is a bit shocking in places but when the hammer is down, none of this matters! It fits in, it can be a proper giffer cruiser with radio two on at 30mph but it'll turn into a bruiser with some oldskool hardcore at a tonne. It's come to a good home.
    • By reb
      I have an increasingly rare night off tonight, so I went out to have a prod around the 205 to remind myself what needs doing. It stills amazes me how utterly rust free it is, certainly the bits I can get at with it on the ground anyway. Minor grump about discovering the rear drivers side wheel has been rubbing on the inside, but I'll see to that in time.

      There's not much else to say right now, so have a photo of it before it was off the road!

      And another!

    • By davehedgehog31
      I've had various threads on the go for different collections this year, but thought I'd condense my threads into one manageable thread to document my ham-fisted tinkering.

      At the turn of the year I was driving a nice, dependable, modern 2011 Peugeot 407 and no other vehicle. It was nice enough, but boring as feck. I'd bought it after a series of disastrous heaps in the awkward age bracket of being new and valuable enough to worry about but old enough to be fucked. The 407 was just too new, too bloated and dull. I had a hankering for old metal, my Mineral Oil withdrawal pangs were strong.

      From January I started looking, there were eBay bids, missed reserves, wasted trips from Gumtree and other such nonsense. I happened on an automatic Rover 216 GSI with one giffer owner from a year old. The chap was giving up driving at 93 years old and his grandson was moving it on. I bid, and failed. It was in London though, about 420 miles away so I wasn't all that bothered. Of course when he offered it to me for my losing bid after the winning buyer was a no show I said yes. I was on the Megabus down to that London overnight for about £15. I hung about in Liverpool Street station like a mad shivering jakey until my train out to the suburb for my first sight of the new steed. It was battered outside but had been well looked after. A frankly insulting amount of cash changed hands and I was away up the road.

      We had many adventures together, it was dependable and it whet my appetite for interesting old motors again and proved that the very bottom end of the market was navigable if I had the patience to wade through the sea of shit to find the odd pearl.



      The 407 was still on the fleet at this point but I was covering a lot of miles in the Rover, with a long commute though the fuel economy wasn't ideal. When a friend's mother was looking for a new diesel saloon to replace the faithful old Xsara she had a scheme was concocted. I sold the 407 to her and was on the hunt for an interesting replacement.

      When I was growing up my dad had a succession of hopeless shitters, indeed I was brought home from the hospital as a newborn in a brush painted Skoda Super Estelle. The best car he had was a red XUD Peugeot 405 with air conditioning and electric windows. So when I found a 1994 GTXD advertised by someone who could actually compose a car advert in the fashion you would expect of a human being educated to a Primary School level, I pounced.

      Of course I couldn't buy a car just down the road so it was on the train to Birmingham. First class no less. I stayed in an absolute flea pit of a hotel and drove up the road the next day. This was a proper bit of nostalgia and a really practical borderline classic car. It had been fastidiously maintained by the previous owner. Apart from there being a hole where there was once a stereo and the lack of working air con it was a pleasant drive home.

      Given their relative scarcity and how dependable this one has proven so far, it's a keeper, I'd struggle to part with it.



      Two cars just wasn't enough to worry about, so this Citroen C1 was acquired. Pure Aleppo spec. A camel can go for weeks, or months without stopping at a watering hole, the C1 has a similar thirst for Motor Spirit. Man maths were employed and worked out that it would easily* pay for itself.




      There have been further movements, I'll recap them shortly. I should probably do some work.
×
×
  • Create New...