Jump to content
dozeydustman

Saab 93 - Smuts and knocks. Also fridge.

Recommended Posts

The cheapest place for carb cleaner is toolstation, about £2 a can there. I buy it for mowers.

 

That does sound like dying battery related lolz to me, get a secondhand one from a breakers with a 3 month warranty. How much is it to plug into the tech2 at the local place? If its >£10 then buy a knock-off op-com from ebay and I'll bring my 'dirty' laptop for diagnostics over and we can play about with seeing what codes it has?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Main battery is near enough brand new - massive Varta lump I got back in march from Tayna. Consulting HBoL and goggling the interwebs there is apparently a separate battery just for the alarm siren. I have a long run planned this weekend up to Kent, so 80 miles each way, poor thing has only done 300 miles since we moved 5 weeks ago, mainly to the shops and back once a week and 2 trips to work - not good for the battery in a weasel engined car. Get no other faults come up, just this alarm one. If it is the battery at least it has some guarantee with it.

 

Just a thought. It's not the heat is it? Once the day cools down in the mid-late evening I can engage the alarm and it doesn't go off all night. Seeing as previous charging issues with the new alternator and battery were down to bad earths, I might have to go over every earthing point in the next few weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Hooli

If it's like the alarm on a 9-5 then it does have a battery within the siren. SiC turned the siren etc off on mine before I got it (using Tech2 I think) to solve what I think I remember as a similar issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I should break cover and delurk...

 

I’ve got a 9-5 with more or less the same engine - which generated tons of black smoke on acceleration. It would also go into limp mode pretty regularly and traced this to a hole in the intercooler about 1cm long.

 

The easy test is to pull off the hoses from the turbo and the inlet manifold, and fashion a bicycle inner tube into a ghetto boost leak tester. You need 2 sections about a foot long one with the valve in it. On the valve end roll up one end to seal the tube and pull it condom fashion over the smaller hose. Slice open the other bit and tie wrap it on to the other end. Pump and see if it hold pressure. If not you need to replace something.

 

Or rent a boost leak tester, it’s probably less of a pain in the tits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just done a quick goggle search, I can find kits for the 1st gen 93, but not the 2nd gen (which mine is).

Looks like a simple soldering job, some new lithium cells and a few capacitors.

 

Weirdly, it's also sorted out the accelerator fault for the time being, went for a good hour and a half's drive after work and no limp-home mode. Doesn't mean it won't come back, and knowing this car, it'll do it at next year's MoT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Hooli

¿Que?

 

Referencing Barefoot's strange noise in his Jag that turned out to be loose oranges in the boot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had 4 days of no limp-home mode, no electrical weirdness at all. Alarm no longer setting itself off at random either, but still won't save its settings. I'm putting it down to the excessive heat and/or a fly being trapped in the car!

My trip to Kent has been abandoned due to yesterday's heatstroke/hyponatremia incident as still not feeling 100% the ticket, so spent the morning studying the HBoL to see how to reinstate the air conditioning pump. I seem to remember when I had the system checked over last year that the system had coolant in it, no leaks, but wasn't compressing when AC switched on, hence thinking the pump was shot.

Would a faulty pump clutch relay show up a diagnostic code if I put a reader on the diagnostic socket? I also don't have a working outside temperature sensor either if this is part of the problem, which on some cars I know is linked in with the air con system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The diesel compressors on these are a simple on/off clutch arrangement. The petrols have a variable deplacement pump that doesn't engage in or out as such.

 

For the diesel, I don't think it knows if the clutch is dead or not. (i.e. open circuit). Would have to check wiring diagrams to see how clever it is wired up. Have you checked to see if the belt goes round it? Sometimes people get a shorter belt if it siezes up to save replacing the compressor.

 

Likely the lack of working outside air temp sensor could be causing problems. Usually the system won't/can't engage in sub-zero temps, so no sensor means it can't check that and defaults off. Would again have to check the Saab Workshop manual for that. I'm not near my computer with it, so can't easily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The belt goes round the compressor and it spins nicely - I think I'll try a temp sensor as they are not expensive plus I need to take the front bumper off anyway to sort the headlamp washers from pissing out whenever the wash/wipe reservoir is filled up.

 

Hopefully something I can source this week. Unfortunately HBOL has a "typical" wiring diagram for the climate control, but it does incorporate an external temperature sender. Looks like they're only a tenner or so. Had a look in the front grill of the car it appears to be missing. If it hasn't fallen out and broken a wire that it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Hooli

Likely the lack of working outside air temp sensor could be causing problems. Usually the system won't/can't engage in sub-zero temps, so no sensor means it can't check that and defaults off. Would again have to check the Saab Workshop manual for that. I'm not near my computer with it, so can't easily.

 

That'd I'd say is likely, I've heard of it on a few cars causing the AC to stop engaging.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've managed to order an external temperature sensor from eBay for £5 inc P&P, it's a Corsa/Astra/Vectra part, but same as the Saab part number and £10 cheaper. We shall see what it does.

 

I can whip the front bumper off, sort out the wheel arch liners and glue up the few broken bits of plastic which join the bumper and arch liners together. I have millions of imitation araldite - even if it keeps everything held together for a few months and the aircon working.

I've also seen while googling a non-functioning external temperature sensor can make influence the mixture and help with excessive smoking etc. which does sound a little far fetched that I'm not ruling out egr/manifold/swirl flaps/generally worn engine though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Saab has been dead for a week. No electrics at all when key turned, but central locking still worked on the remote. Thankfully I have a working pushbike for work and now with access to the Corolla for the time being, a poor connection on cylinder 4 spark plug saw rude health being resumed this afternoon. Could do with new leads though.

 

Voltage tested battery and was showing 12.4v, not excessively flat but not enough to crank over a diseasel. Battery is now on a trickle charge overnight. Also noticed there is a big multi-plug on the side of the battery box. It looks wonky. and dirty. It also looks like the main feed from the battery +ve.

 

I've had enough of cars for today though, so tomorrow will involve checking this multi-plug for connectivity and corrosion, reinstalling the battery, and take a dismantled bed to the tip - it's been sitting in the car for 8 days now!

 

I'll report back tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the key turning? If so, quite a few systems must be coming alive for it to do that. They're fussy at the best of times to allow that key to disengage and turn.

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a bit? Sometimes a full power cycle and reboot can solve gremlins in these.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Battery charged up last night, just fitted to Saab, started fine and a lovely healthy 13.7v on the meter at tickover.

 

Blipped the throttle - donk donk donk

 

Noticed engine cover wasn't level, took off and realised whoever had taken it off last (probably me) hadn't put the rubber spacers in correctly.

 

Then I noticed this.

 

post-24583-0-38211900-1532010699_thumb.jpeg

 

Soot should not be around there.

 

Then I noticed swirl flap actuating rod has gone missing, and No 4 swirl flap spinning round with the engine ticking over. It's a shit photo but best I can manage with phone.

 

post-24583-0-86072400-1532010782_thumb.jpeg

 

Probably explains the limp-home mode, the boomy exhaust and the excessive smoke. I'm not sure what type of flaps this engine has, but looks like I need to whip the manifold off now and fit a blanking kit. Or new flaps.

 

Bollocks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Saying that, I think parts for Saabs do a blanking kit for not much. It's a known weak spot on them apparently, the rod (or ends) on earlier ones are plastic and break for fun. Later ones are metal and are a bit better. Actuator fails too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Phew. that means if I've got the flap system I think I have, I don't need to remove the manifold to put the blanks in. Bet I've got the ones with the screws that hold the flap to the spindle.

 

Then again, a full manifold removal will give me a good chance to clear out all the soot and give the EGR a good seeing to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Full manifold removal on this requires fuel pump off. Which is a cambelt job.

 

However there are repair kits that can fit onto the remains of the existing spindle. The original rod bar is likely there still, just fallen deep into that well. You can get it out, just requires patience.

 

My 9-3 had this happen and twice too. First time with my parents it was sorted under Saab warranty. Second time was with me and it was long out of warranty at that point. As the repair kits didn't exist at the time, I used numberplate caps glued on to the rod. Worked fine and put another 15k or so on it. Until it got rear ended and written off.

 

The car is still on the road somewhere so can't be that bad!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like I said, you don't need to have the manifold off to reattach swirl flap rod.

 

 

my fingers are huge.

 

Then again cambelt is due a change I think. last changed at 150k, it's at 200k now. And I want to go down the total deletion of flaps route if possible.

 

Number 4 cylinder (furthest from gearbox) is actually blowing soot out of its housing with the engine running.

 

Then again I am tempted to fuck the car off and get that Samba on the tat thread

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spent a couple of hours this afternoon in a shady spot with my head under the Saab's bonnet. No sign anywhere of the flap actuation rod. It would also appear that the swirl flap for No 4 cylinder has now jumped right out of its port. Buggerations.

 

I've also got 3 new faults which appear at random, but when they do, it's all at the same time. ABS, ESP and Traction Control failure. Going to trace more wiring diagrams tonight in the HBOL, I'm hoping again it's a dodgy connection or faulty ESP switch on the dash (had this before). Sometimes it's when I start the car, they're there immediately. Other times I could be driving for an hour and half with no fault.

 

However I'm now getting to the point of real frustration with this car, the Mrs no longer trusts it, and has started losing coolant and oil.

 

With MoT until mid May next year, I might put £100 a month by until then and get something a bit better. I think it's got to the point of not worth fixing TBH, unless there is a really brave shiter who wants to take it on?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By BoggyMires
      Now in my mucky hands is this S Type Mondeo Lincoln. It's not like a Mondeo Lincoln  though, just uses some of the bits as it's from a time when jaguar was experiencing some 'technical' issues. 
      It has managed to hang onto the feel of a premium car but for the use of cost saving interior plastics made from the same gear that land Rover used in the discovery 2 of the same era, I know, I have one of those too! That has some BMW switches in it though.
       
      This jaag was cheap. Why did I buy it? All I wanted really was a small convertible for the summer to smoke around in, this is the polar opposite. 
      The price was good but these cars are without their expensive issues. I liked the body. It's virtually rust free, a freak of nature and it had a set of premium tyres on it which suggested it's had some money chucked at it.
       
      That's all I wanted really from it. The bolt on stuff and mechanicals are fairly easy to sort out, plus I can upgrade as I feel fit.
       
      Today I've been bonding with this machine. It's got to beat the 3 series I have as a good daily or it's out. It's going to be a tall order, the 318 is bionic!
       
      I have many miles to do in the next few months, I need a motorway cruiser auto. The odd jaunt for a few hundred miles is the 318's and my clutch legs limit!
       
      Now, this car has been owned previously by a few members on here, the work it requires is because it is a cheap car and 20 years old and has a jaguar badge on it. There are a few issues with it.
       
      As said, it has to be put into immediate service. I've owned it 2 days and it's already done over 300 miles, and will do all that again tomorrow! So let's get started!
       
      After about 100 miles yesterday, I reversed it for the first time in my ownership and when braking the noise was alarming! Had a look and the outer rear brake pad was metal on the disc. I only had another 60 miles to go!
      A phone call on the move saw a set in stock back home to be picked up. Sweet.
       
      That was yesterday, I've got a day now to change the rear pads and sort out the dropped headlamps with a couple of screws... A couple of hours it'll be Sorted... He says...
       
      WIND BACK CALIPERS! Yes, they are. My special tool? Sorry? What? No tool?
      Well, I cobbled together a bar and a pair of molies but Christ, that was messing about! I wanted to secure the caliper to the mounting to hold it still but the sliders internal thread was cross threaded on both sliders, so I had to tap them out first. It worked but not without a fight. Then my neighbour came over to have a nose at the new aquisition... Him: Morning, how you getting on"?, Me: "Shit, you haven't got a brake caliper tool have you"? Him: "Yeah, I'll go get it". 
       
      LIFESAVER!!!
       

       
      Sticky slider syndrome ^
       

       
      Fully padded up ^
       
      I took a look around under there, it's nearly all shot. Most ball joints are exposed to the elements so all need replacing but not before a decent jet wash.
       

       

       
      There's little play in the joints so all that goes on the list of parts and graft! Wheels on, I loosened and torqued all the wheel nuts around the car and done the Tyre pressures, we were running soft all round.
       
      Next was the front lights. A screw mod can be done but I took the back off the units and they were, well toast. Nothing much holding the inner lenses still at all. There was only one thing for it...
       

       
      I had readied myself for this. I got hold of a replacement lamp mounting kit with all parts made from nylon. This involved dissecting the lamp which was tough! The mounts that came out, or what was left of them were weaker than Jacobs crackers and just crumbled. To get the bumper off, the plastic under tray bolts were all seized so I had to grind them off. More knackered parts were seen. The auto box cooler has shed most of it's cooling fins, the radiator is sweating and the power steering is hemorrhaging fluid on full lock. There's also a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and there's a high pitch whine at 1000 RPM which turns out to be the alternator. More for the list.
      Still, back to the lights. I need to be able to see tonight so I took a level off the tourings lights and marked on to a wheely bin, these are pretty spot on. Then I can use the bin for the Jaags lights and I won't be far off 
       

       
      Going back together nicely it was a good time to run some tcut over the faded lenses. They need a more intense compound and a machine but will do for now.
       

       
      Looks smart yo!
       
      Then it got dark...
       

       
      I then drove 120 miles in it and drove it like it was stolen. It had it, all of it! Slight brake judder at 90 and I couldn't get the alignment done as I had no time (see above pics)
       
      So now we have to price up priorities like the knackered joints on the rear and a full service, two Goodyears and investigate the power steering leak which, I'll hazard a guess at the rack seals are fubard. 
       
      So in summary, I got a bargain barge that has it's fair share of issues, the interior quality is a bit shocking in places but when the hammer is down, none of this matters! It fits in, it can be a proper giffer cruiser with radio two on at 30mph but it'll turn into a bruiser with some oldskool hardcore at a tonne. It's come to a good home.
    • By reb
      I have an increasingly rare night off tonight, so I went out to have a prod around the 205 to remind myself what needs doing. It stills amazes me how utterly rust free it is, certainly the bits I can get at with it on the ground anyway. Minor grump about discovering the rear drivers side wheel has been rubbing on the inside, but I'll see to that in time.

      There's not much else to say right now, so have a photo of it before it was off the road!

      And another!

    • By davehedgehog31
      I've had various threads on the go for different collections this year, but thought I'd condense my threads into one manageable thread to document my ham-fisted tinkering.

      At the turn of the year I was driving a nice, dependable, modern 2011 Peugeot 407 and no other vehicle. It was nice enough, but boring as feck. I'd bought it after a series of disastrous heaps in the awkward age bracket of being new and valuable enough to worry about but old enough to be fucked. The 407 was just too new, too bloated and dull. I had a hankering for old metal, my Mineral Oil withdrawal pangs were strong.

      From January I started looking, there were eBay bids, missed reserves, wasted trips from Gumtree and other such nonsense. I happened on an automatic Rover 216 GSI with one giffer owner from a year old. The chap was giving up driving at 93 years old and his grandson was moving it on. I bid, and failed. It was in London though, about 420 miles away so I wasn't all that bothered. Of course when he offered it to me for my losing bid after the winning buyer was a no show I said yes. I was on the Megabus down to that London overnight for about £15. I hung about in Liverpool Street station like a mad shivering jakey until my train out to the suburb for my first sight of the new steed. It was battered outside but had been well looked after. A frankly insulting amount of cash changed hands and I was away up the road.

      We had many adventures together, it was dependable and it whet my appetite for interesting old motors again and proved that the very bottom end of the market was navigable if I had the patience to wade through the sea of shit to find the odd pearl.



      The 407 was still on the fleet at this point but I was covering a lot of miles in the Rover, with a long commute though the fuel economy wasn't ideal. When a friend's mother was looking for a new diesel saloon to replace the faithful old Xsara she had a scheme was concocted. I sold the 407 to her and was on the hunt for an interesting replacement.

      When I was growing up my dad had a succession of hopeless shitters, indeed I was brought home from the hospital as a newborn in a brush painted Skoda Super Estelle. The best car he had was a red XUD Peugeot 405 with air conditioning and electric windows. So when I found a 1994 GTXD advertised by someone who could actually compose a car advert in the fashion you would expect of a human being educated to a Primary School level, I pounced.

      Of course I couldn't buy a car just down the road so it was on the train to Birmingham. First class no less. I stayed in an absolute flea pit of a hotel and drove up the road the next day. This was a proper bit of nostalgia and a really practical borderline classic car. It had been fastidiously maintained by the previous owner. Apart from there being a hole where there was once a stereo and the lack of working air con it was a pleasant drive home.

      Given their relative scarcity and how dependable this one has proven so far, it's a keeper, I'd struggle to part with it.



      Two cars just wasn't enough to worry about, so this Citroen C1 was acquired. Pure Aleppo spec. A camel can go for weeks, or months without stopping at a watering hole, the C1 has a similar thirst for Motor Spirit. Man maths were employed and worked out that it would easily* pay for itself.




      There have been further movements, I'll recap them shortly. I should probably do some work.
×
×
  • Create New...