Jump to content
dozeydustman

Saab 93 - bad dump valve?

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, stonedagain said:

Have you checked the boost sensor? If it's comes up, it can give similar symptoms as a coked up egr valve.

I have all that to investigate. More important is the cam belt and water pump for the time being. I was told it was changed last year. When I had the manifold off it was quite obvious it was an oldish belt. We're not due to go massive amount of miles in it in the next few month and I will probably start using my bike for work soon.

Meanwhile I've had a look at the Air con. Bridging the HT side of the relay socket makes the interior nice and cold. I get a 12v feed from the dash, but it's the connection to ground that is lost, but we have continuity between the LT ground and the battery, so I have no idea why the relay won't energise. Taking it off the car and putting 12v through it and it clicks, so this isn't the fault. What I may do is just get a couple of spade terminals from an shop and bridge the HT side permanently. I can't go another summer with a boiling hot car! I have bullets, I have female spades and I have eyes, but no male spades!

I may take the under bonnet fuse box out and run a separate earth from the LT side of the relay to a good clean earth, as it may be a break in the wire somewhere. The pump isn't siezed or noisy though, which is a good thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today's tinkering has been caught short as the wife needs the Saab and madam is going out with who/whatever she is currently dating meaning some of my jobs scheduled for today are no longer on the cards and I'll be left to my own devices with sod all to do instead.

At least I got the EGR changed on the Saab

IMG_7639.thumb.JPG.3c988095b66a5afb2aad0935b5c18257.JPG

Spot the difference. Despite cleaning the old one before I did the MOT it sooted up very quickly again and the solenoid has failed. £29 part from eBay WCPGW?

IMG_7640.thumb.JPG.09f4d68c301c361773788640cc3580f4.JPGIMG_7641.thumb.JPG.dbbf4d034a90d37b930f50b193af0391.JPG

Borrowed a code reader from workmate, I'll have to see if I can get one of these for myself as it's one of very few that seem to work on the car. Cleared.

£10 splash & dash and a real good rag up to Rowlands Castle and back has restored performance, a re-gen occurred (first since mid-June) which only lasted about 15 mins instead of the 30-45 before I sorted the manifold, and minimal smoke on acceleration means we're good for a little while yet.

Tomorrow's plans have been cancelled, so weather dependent I'm hoping I can do the cam belt etc. Though I bet I end up needing to order more parts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some investigation this weekend during an unexpected trip to see my very ill nan in Kent and resultant impromptu overnight stay with my parents, dad and I did some investigations of the air con not working this morning and the intermittent lack of power that has plagued me since a week or so after the MoT.

The new EGR had worked itself loose despite being torqued up to what the HBOL says is correct. Redone the bolts up to just nipped tight with a dab of thread lock should prevent this again. Injector No.4 wiring had worked itself loose; I think it was still connected but dad lockwired this in place while I was nipping up the EGR bolts.

Did a code read, P0400 is still showing, and comes back immediately after clearing as does the EML; I do get that EGR 'Whoosh' every now and then so I would say the valve is at least partially working. Doing some googling it could be anything in the exhaust system that's causing this. There's also a lot of turbo lag so thinking waste gate is knackered? I'm going to test the EGR off the car anyway just to make sure the solenoid is working; it's brand new but that doesn't mean anything with car parts now.

Air con. The low tension side of the relay isn't switching at all. The LT out from the relay goes to the switch via something; the cabin switch does make the dash display AC OFF so I don't think it's that. The annoying thing is it worked for the first 3 months I owned the car and it means it's a dicky connection behind the dashboard or in the engine bay. TBH, I may just wire a switch into the relay's socket which is mounted in the dash somewhere so I can switch the air con on and off inside the car.

The clonking noise from the O/S F still needs investigation. I'm off later this month for my 3rd wedding anniversary so what better way to 2 days of the week of than tinkering with my old shitheap (wife only has 3 days off!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have climate control? If so, unlikely Aircon to be a connection behind the dash as the front electric module is what does the switching over the CAN network. I wouldn't wire up permanently as it needs to cycle the compressor as it reaches max pressure, drops and then reruns the compressor. 

How are your vacuum lines? If not replaced, they're possibly perished in the engine heat and leaking. Get a length of silicone pipe off eBay and replace them if necessary. 

Injector connector can be had not too expensive either. A repair kit exists as the injector connector for cyl 3 usually fails on these. Or just carry on tie wrapping it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, SiC said:

Do you have climate control? If so, unlikely Aircon to be a connection behind the dash as the front electric module is what does the switching over the CAN network. I wouldn't wire up permanently as it needs to cycle the compressor as it reaches max pressure, drops and then reruns the compressor. 

How are your vacuum lines? If not replaced, they're possibly perished in the engine heat and leaking. Get a length of silicone pipe off eBay and replace them if necessary. 

Injector connector can be had not too expensive either. A repair kit exists as the injector connector for cyl 3 usually fails on these. Or just carry on tie wrapping it. 

Yep this car has automatic climate control, I've found online that holding in recirculate and auto is supposed to reboot the system, though it's made no effect. I think I'll have to get it Tech-2 looked at. Vacuum lines were in good condition when I did the manifold swap, now you've mentioned them I'm wondering if I've got them swapped round the wrong way to the reservoir on the back of the manifold. I'll take a look later this week. Could also be that they've come off, but I can't hear any hissing noises from under the bonnet.

15 hours ago, jonathan_dyane said:

Is it that the relay isn’t being earthed? The earth is ecu switched so if this is the case it means that either there is another fault causing the ecu to disengage a/c or for some reason it needs activation on Tech 2.

Given that every now and then the whole car has an electrical hissy fit it wouldn't surprise me if the ECU has an intermittent fault. Sometimes the driver's door won't lock when the zapper is pressed, then other times the front passenger door won't lock; it'll have a moment where it will default the trip computer to 40.7MPG and 150 miles of range irrespective of tank level, then the next time it'll be back to what it was beforehand. I'll have the local independent Saab specialist have a look and see if it's been deactivated (and probably get bumraped in the wallet for the pleasure).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The software in these cars is pretty buggy. Often problems could be resolved by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes to reboot it. Mine needed it every so often as it sometimes wouldn't go to sleep on key out. 

Door lock modules failing TADIS. My front passenger side was getting very intermittent not long before it got written off. 

Mine would also forget the trips MPG on key out and revert to a previous startup reading next time. Again TADIS. Buggy software. MPG computer is separate from the engine ECU, but works out it's reading from the ECU over the can bus. Also wildly optimistic at times. I could get it reading 60mpg, but actually only did 48mpg when I calculated it from fuel fill.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah mine was a right old carry on with the door lock modules. There are 3 working ones in the box you collected last week, but I was never convinced it wasn't the ECu not sending the right message to the modules rather than the modules themselves, as the issue was intermittent. I got to the point that I knew one didn't seem to like hot days, and one didn't like cold days, and it was incredibly rare for all 4 to work at the same time, but lived with it. Replacement is actually quite easy once you've done it once, the module comes out the door handle hole on the outside, but for christ sake make sure it works before refitting the door card and closing the door.

Often my DTE would read zero miles or the MPG would go to zero too. It'd recover but as SiC says, buggy software. Considering how little it actually has to do its a bit shit - A linux PC of equivalent vintage would perform way more varied work way more reliably, but then thats the evil influence of GM I suppose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, SiC said:

The software in these cars is pretty buggy. Often problems could be resolved by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes to reboot it. Mine needed it every so often as it sometimes wouldn't go to sleep on key out. 

Door lock modules failing TADIS. My front passenger side was getting very intermittent not long before it got written off. 

Mine would also forget the trips MPG on key out and revert to a previous startup reading next time. Again TADIS. Buggy software. MPG computer is separate from the engine ECU, but works out it's reading from the ECU over the can bus. Also wildly optimistic at times. I could get it reading 60mpg, but actually only did 48mpg when I calculated it from fuel fill.  

 

1 hour ago, Stanky said:

Yeah mine was a right old carry on with the door lock modules. There are 3 working ones in the box you collected last week, but I was never convinced it wasn't the ECu not sending the right message to the modules rather than the modules themselves, as the issue was intermittent. I got to the point that I knew one didn't seem to like hot days, and one didn't like cold days, and it was incredibly rare for all 4 to work at the same time, but lived with it. Replacement is actually quite easy once you've done it once, the module comes out the door handle hole on the outside, but for christ sake make sure it works before refitting the door card and closing the door.

Often my DTE would read zero miles or the MPG would go to zero too. It'd recover but as SiC says, buggy software. Considering how little it actually has to do its a bit shit - A linux PC of equivalent vintage would perform way more varied work way more reliably, but then thats the evil influence of GM I suppose.

 

Disconnecting the battery only seems to cure the jam sensor in the electric windows when they play up! The MPG calculation isn't far off what I work out doing some basic number crunching - ¬†¬Ī1-2 mpg most of the time. Door locks tend to give out when it's very very hot, so I'll have a ferret about in the doors on my few days off later this month, provided swapping the cam belt etc doesn't get over-involved with too much bother.¬†I've had the door cards off before to replace window switches, while I'm at it I'll check the door shut fuse box for blown fuses as a lot of this has appeared since the mirror fold button stopped working for no reason whatsoever. Could be pure co-incidence - electrics on this car are even more French than a French car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By 1970mgb
      So, someone posted on another thread a link to an Ebay listing for an LHD '74 Marina listed on Ebay.
      I called a little while ago and talked to the seller, and the story is that it was a good running and driving car 10 years ago, but has been neglected and won't run. I'm debating with myself about whether or not I want to take it on as a project.
      I know these had a terrible reputation when new, but at the same time they're actually legitimately rare in the US. I have seen one in person, and most of the estimates I've seen put the number of survivors at 10-20(although I don't know how much we can trust that).
      There's some definite appeal in the engine familiarity for me with the MGB. I MIGHT have to convert it to a manual though. In addition, there's the issue of having it shipped a couple hundred miles to me. It's listed now for $700...if I could do $500 it might be a make or break for me.
      Any thoughts here on it?
       
      EDIT: The car as it sits now is an automatic. If I swapped the transmission, it would be to a manual. Sorry for any confusion from my incorrect statement!
    • By blackboilersuit
      After many a long year of occasional contribution on here I've probably got enough old shite on fleet now to do something I should have done yonks ago and start a project thread.
      The story so far.........
      I had an 02 CRV for 6 years and it performed faultlessly as an car taking everything in it's stride. The only issue with it was the 25mpg it returned but as I worked close to home that wasn't an issue. Cue December last year and a new job saw my commute go up from 4 miles a day to 32 miles a day.

      By March I was drowning in green shield stamps so  bought the mighty diesel disAstra from Davehedgehog of this here parish. Shown here on the only off-road parking and only second car parking space I have. The garage contains a few motorbikes so I've always stubbornly stuck to a single car rule so I don't have to move motors to get bikes in and out. More on this detail in a bit.....

      A combination of broken motorcycles needing worked on, a bike trip around the Baltic and work meant that I soon realised that I had no time to prep the disAstra for its MOT  at the start of this month. It wasn't worth enough to pay to have the work done so I decided that the poor old thing would be scrapped in favour of a replacement motor.........
      The mighty Volvo (V70 D5) was purchased from Ma & Pa forddeliveryboy of this parish and migrated north of the border back to it's natural home.

      Three days after being pressed into commuting service the mighty volvo suffered a (badly) sticking caliper and much burning brake smells that had to be stripped and rebuilt before work the next day. Sticking piston at that so the whole thing was off and the brakes had to be bled afterwards. Two and a half hours in the pissing rain was a bit character building especially as the still MOT'd (by 3 days) and taxed (but not insured) astra was sitting on the drive. Decision made, insurance checked and a soon to be taken out Admiral multi-car policy will see me with two cars on the fleet again. I could have used one of the bikes but motorway commuting in the pissing rain on two wheels is no fun. The volvo needs an MOT in december so having the astra back on the road will take the pressure off getting that done if it needs work and the weather is bad.
      And so as the volvo continues to provide daily service, project astra revival starts. Known MOT work needed is frilly arches,  broken number plate and front discs and pads so nothing major. Thus far the arches have been sorted without resort to duct tape.
      After a bit of prodding.......

      And after the angle grinder was let loose surprisingly it was only the return lip that was rotten so the welder was broken out to lash on some roughly cut fresh metal.

      Linished off filled, sanded and primed. Note the use of a farmfoods brochure pulled out the bin being used as masking paper for extra shite points.

      Followed by a near perfect colour matched (*) top coat....

      Well I had black on the shelf and it's good enough to stop the primer soaking up the water so that'll do for now.
      Hoping to get brakes and MOT sorted in the coming week so more to follow soon (hopefully).
    • By Fumbler
      To mark the genesis of my fleet project thread I here present my new car: a 1997 Nissan Micra Shape-


      It really looks that good. There is a reason for this: its previous owner was an old lady who loved the thing so much so she made every effort to keep it in good shape. It originally came from Fleet in the GU postcode which suggests to me it was bought by the present dealer at auction, hence arriving down here in Kent. Before seeing the car I checked its MOT history and its only fails were thanks to broken stoplights, which shows me that it was very well cared for. I suppose an example of this was that on the last MOT, an advisory was a corroded rear silencer. The silencer on the car when I saw it was new. Methinks the lady wanted to keep it as good as possible. It was kept in a garage and so all the bumpers and black trim are very black and the tyres are in very good condition. Spare never used! Also included a free Dettol first aid kit from 1997.
      This car has 15000 genuine miles on the clock. We clocked over 15000 during the test drive! The lady owner really only trundled around her village in it and the MOT shows that it only did some meagre miles between tests. This, of course, came at a price. We saw a cherry red Micra from 2002 at the same dealer. Paint was shoddy and when they washed it the boot had massive sections of bare metal and it wasn't very happy. This car, however, is in fabulous condition and there was no contest between the two cars- it really is that good, inside and out. Immaculate interior, driver's airbag, cassette player... all there and all functioning (apart from cassette thanks to new battery and failed display). This meant that I bought it for £1600, £100 over what was my uppermost limit, but I knew I wouldn't see another like this that was in as good shape for a fair while. It was priced very ambitiously, at £1990, so I'm content in the fact I managed to slash a few hundred off the price. There wasn't that much paperwork though. All the dealership received was the logbook with 3 service stamps from 1998, 1999 and 2000, the radio key pass, a National Trust sticker, and the original paperwork holder. I suspect the old lady died and had her car auctioned, and the massive file of paperwork is now someone's egg carton, along will everything else she owned.

      As always, this car isn't exactly in showroom condition. While the inside is great and the floor is solid, and the underseal is in great shape, the not undersealed parts need a small looking at. Mainly the rear of the driver's side sill. It's really the only bubbling on the car. I suspect a well aimed stonechip managed to fester over the wintery salted roads, making it rust even more. It's around the size of a 5p piece, and will give me the opportunity to spray the insides of the sill with some chain oil to prevent any further corrosion. Behind the fuel tank there are a few rusty joints- places where the spraygun cannot get paint onto- which some Vactan and Dynax should put to rights. Alternator belt looks original because of the cracking and Nissan badges and will need doing soon as well as the front plate. As much as I like the 90's font and original dealer surround, the dishevelled R and general water ingress is a persistant MOT advisory. It could be the MOT station being strict (and most likely is considering there's a Saxo down the road with far worse blackening), however for the sake of peace of mind and all that, I'll get a new one made. The rear has already been replaced indicating this has happened before.
      All in all, I think this is a nice plucky motor. I'll have it by the end of the week; just got to sort out tax, insurance, and it's going to have an MOT. As part of the deal it's getting the MOT and an oil and filter change which will be something ticked off the list. It has some love scratches and chips here and there, but it drives well, is stiff and controllable, and should make out to be a nice summer project!
    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.


      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.

       






      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...









      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.







      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...



      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.



      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...
    • By TripleRich
      Hi all, new to the forum.  Thought you might be interested in what I've got myself into
      I'd been after my first classic car for a while.  If it's big and made in the 70s I'm interested.  Looked at few things like P6s, Zodiacs, Victors, SD1s and various other things.  Problem was I didn't want to spend a boatload of money on something that looked alright but underneath was actually a total heap.  The solution was to buy a complete heap in the first place and spend the money fixing it.
      So in January I went ahead and bought this from a colleague at work who was moving away and needed to get shot of it.

      It's a part finished restoration (I prefer not started) and it needs a whole load of help if it's going to stand any chance of using a road again.
      Pros
      It's right up my street.  Granada Coupes are quite odd and certainly stand out from the norm.
      It still has the original engine, box, interior and most trim.
      It came with loads of panels I need to repair it (mostly original Ford stock).
      It came with so many spares I could probably build a few Granadas and still have stuff left over.
      It was cheap.
      Cons
      Most of the front end has been cut off.
      Most of the body structure is quite rotten.
      It's going to take me ages.
      I work at a restoration company and my boss kindly allows me to keep the car there.  So I've got access to all the gear I need to restore it.  I've been busy on the car for a while now so will post more pics over the coming days.
      Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...