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2 hours ago, Rust Collector said:

For the retest, assuming that the bulb has been pulled to hide the fact the light is on, definitely don’t* cut the feed to the ABS lamp and splice it into the feed for the check engine light to buy yourself some extra time to fix it whilst still obtaining a ticket.

Similar thoughts were going through my mind with the Senator ABS light. Thought of trying to connect that to the low screen wash light or similar so it would stay out but thankfully no need now 😬

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2 hours ago, wuvvum said:

That'd be good, except that the check engine light quite often stays on too!  (Not an MOT issue though because pre-2008 diesel.)

I could splice it into the feed for the EBD light though, that comes on and goes out as it should.  I just need to find a wiring diagram as the instrument panel is all PCB with embedded LEDs for the warning lights.

Dash light timers are available on ebay to get round this issue https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283034022787

 

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5 hours ago, wuvvum said:

Why is it so cheap?  Is engine oil much cheaper in the US in the same way that petrol is, or is it just the economies of scale that come from the fact that Americans change their oil every 400 yards?

I really don't know. The cost of oil changes here has gone down at dealerships massively in the last ten years. 

There's some economies of scale going on. I just don't understand them.

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12 hours ago, Stanky said:

Has anyone here driven one of these ever?

Yes.  I owned one and daily-ed it for a year or so.  I've driven about 5 different ones.  In theory, I still have the body of one stashed away in storage.

As they are 1970s-1990s hand built, there is "a range" of different qualities of build, ranging from acceptable to utter shit.

Getting them watertight is a challenge.  Getting in and out is a challenge.  Seeing out is a challenge.  Ventilation is non-existant.  Handling is dire.  They look very cool but are an absolute nightmare to live with unless heavily modified.

There are 3 different body styles of these with various changes over the years.  Later ones have more headroom.  (IE just "fuck all", rather than "I have no spine")

Some buffon in the late 90s tried to revive them with a spaceframe chassis and mid-mounted-rwd arrangement, which of course fell flat on it's arse.

My recommendation?  Avoid.

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11 hours ago, wuvvum said:

That'd be good, except that the check engine light quite often stays on too!  (Not an MOT issue though because pre-2008 diesel.)

I could splice it into the feed for the EBD light though, that comes on and goes out as it should.  I just need to find a wiring diagram as the instrument panel is all PCB with embedded LEDs for the warning lights.

Ah, you have a similar problem to my Mitsubishi then - on that I connected my check engine light to my ABS lamp, but then my vacuum reservoir got a hole in it and occasionally low vacuum seems to set off the ABS lamp 😅 I should really put the spare plastic reservoir on at some point.

RE wiring, I used a multimeter to trace pins in the cluster to points on the PCB - all the lamps shared a common earth so it was fairly easy to then work back and find the pins for the positive feeds. I then split the body loom and spliced the relevant wires. I'm not familiar with things modern enough to have LED MILs though so if it's a sealed unit I appreciate that this approach isn't really suitable and a wiring diagram is the way forward as you say.

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7 hours ago, PhilA said:

I really don't know. The cost of oil changes here has gone down at dealerships massively in the last ten years. 

There's some economies of scale going on. I just don't understand them.

Loss leader maybe?  Get punters in the door with a cheap oil change and then upsell them the paint protection package and underseal.

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15 hours ago, PhilA said:

I thought the point of auto parts stores selling oil and filters was for it to be cheaper for the home spanner wielding idiot to change their oil?

Oil for my car, $63 (fancy synthetic water thin stuff) plus a filter for $23.

Oil and filter plus a carwash at the dealership $53.

 

At least the Pontiac costs $14 a change 

I know the garage I use buy the bulk of their oil by the drum. They're considerably cheaper than the gallon jugs. Presumably because there is less packaging involved. Also they tend to use oil from TPS (VAG trade parts) and they won't have the cost of advertising and marketing to pay back either. 

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After yesterday's irritating debacle in trying to buy a replacement for the Focus, it's got a stay of execution. If I drive it back to my in-laws, cartakeback will give me £405. That's versus £335 if collected locally. Probably the course of action to take is it's the least hassle.

Anyhow I decided to treat it to a new air filter. Hopefully it'll pay back in fuel savings. Not that it probably will pay back the tenner for the filter when doing less than 500 miles a month. 😅

Super easy to change and a big old filter.
2c585ff1c627e16c353e778504782416.jpg
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The old one is an absolutely filthy thing
56058002e119ab3977785cdbd1673a86.jpg
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Looking at the date code of the filter it gives a manufactured date of April 2009 !?
6571621bda942deae0e4daa9b18f465f.jpg

If it was changed in the best case in 2010, that gives nearly 79k miles on this. I think this car has been run by changing the bare minimum. I suspect it has had oil changes in that period as I wouldn't have thought engine oil to last quite that long. The previous owner said it had them done 2 years ago - I asked after I paid and signed the paperwork, so he had no real reason to lie. Does potentially make the cambelt almost certainly original though. Or one replacement in the first three years of its life going by it was just under warranty when it had its first MOT.

It's taking a lot of effort to not do an oil change on it. Zero point as the scrap man won't pay any more for fresh engine oil and filter!

Still runs and drives really well mind.

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Unlikely to be of much interest, but sent ex @Kiltox @purplebargekeni10 off to have it's screen pump fixed, needed a new one, so mechanic got one from Hyundai. Also had an oil and filter, to stop me pretending I'm going to do it! Anyway first actual 'bill' in the two years we've had it. Can't go to far wrong with these it seems.

 

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18 minutes ago, egg said:

Unlikely to be of much interest, but sent ex @Kiltox @purplebargekeni10 off to have it's screen pump fixed, needed a new one, so mechanic got one from Hyundai. Also had an oil and filter, to stop me pretending I'm going to do it! Anyway first actual 'bill' in the two years we've had it. Can't go to far wrong with these it seems.

 

Did it have a horrible aftermarket one on it? I can’t remember if that was one of the very few jobs I had to do to it. Stonking thing. 

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21 hours ago, vulgalour said:

FAIL

Rear marker light - blown bulb.  Typically this happened on the way to the MoT since I tested everything before setting off.

Insecure headlight - the two screws holding the bracket in had backed out a bit, they need a fraction of a turn.  Already fixed that one.

Rust to inner wing/hole in chassis - I should have spotted this, somehow I didn't.  It appears to just be the inner skin, the structure behind it seems okay.  I'll know better when I get the angry disc on it, but I can't see it being too nightmarish to resolve.

IMAG6504.thumb.jpg.71db8fd974b0f6119661832e213e1bad.jpg

 

Rust to inner sill - an historic repair with a loose edge.  There doesn't look to be any rust, just an unfinished edge that needs securing.  Don't have a photo of this to show you at the moment, so you'll have to use your brain pictures.

Advisory - oil leak to front.  It's the rocker cover gasket, TADTS.  I've got a new one to go on, I'll do the tappets at the same time, probably shan't bother for the retest since it's not vital and the leak is just your usual nonsense.

 

The nice thing is all the work I've done on it, like the rear arches, has been considered perfectly fine.  It's only work others have done, or general entropy, that's been flagged.

All repaired and ready to go.  Booked in for the retest at 16:30 today.  Literally took me longer to get out the tools and tidy up than to do the repairs.  Blown rear bulb decided to work because it wasn't blown at all, it was just being a little shit.

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50 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

Did it have a horrible aftermarket one on it? I can’t remember if that was one of the very few jobs I had to do to it. Stonking thing. 

Ooh, not sure, but I don't mind that he went for an OEM replacement (it does front and rear I think). He had a look over and no other issues noted.

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Well the Maxus failed the MOT as predicted.  Two front bottom balljoints, a track rod end and a drop link, plus a corroded brake pipe which I hadn't spotted, and the bit of inner sill which I had.  Also needs the nearside headlight polishing, a front number plate and the handbrake adjusting.  So a fair bit to do but nothing terminal.  I had visions of having to replace both front wishbones, but the ball joints on these actually bolt to the bottom of the hub carrier and poke down through the end of the wishbone, so that should make replacement easier (and will definitely make it cheaper).

About £60 in bits, which I've already ordered - hopefully they'll be here in time for me to fit them at the weekend, then I'll have to see if I can persuade my welding mate to stick a patch on the inner sill.

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3 hours ago, vulgalour said:

All repaired and ready to go.  Booked in for the retest at 16:30 today.  Literally took me longer to get out the tools and tidy up than to do the repairs.  Blown rear bulb decided to work because it wasn't blown at all, it was just being a little shit.

Retest complete: PASS  As if there was any doubt.

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14 minutes ago, egg said:

If you see a tradesman turn up in a full body kitted Traaaansit Sports on a private plate....do you think...

(a) top lad!
(b) style over substance?
(c) he's charging too much...

ford-transit-custom.jpg

D) They’re going to tarmac my drive and try to get me to agree to having some trees cut down or my roof pressure washed.

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