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Father Ted

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1 hour ago, Lankytim said:

New engine mounts fitted to the 145, along with the other two tyres. The existing mounts were pretty collapsed! 
 

The old Michelin tyres were very degraded, can anyone tell me the year they were made? 

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077 is the date code I think. And pre 2001. Could be 1997 or 1987 I’m not sure yet.
thttps://www.kwik-fit.com/tyres/information/tyre-age

 

 

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Yesterday as I turned into a junction my dash lit up like a Xmas tree with ABS and DTC warnings. Read the fault and it said right front wheel speed sensor supply - dead sensor so I thought so ordered one and fitted it today.

Lights all still on but the code has now changed to direction of rotation. Can’t work it out. Only fits one way both at the plug and physically in the hole. 
 

Don’t know if perhaps it’s a shit sensor being an Amazon prime special, or if I have another fault. I think these are a magnetic sensor rather than a physical ring like a driveshaft would have, as it’s a front sensor issue so I believe it’s built into the bearing. 
 

Pissed off now as im not sure what to do next.

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On 4/15/2023 at 8:17 PM, trigger said:

Also if anyone is localish and at a loose end tomorrow and fancies seeing 300+ old cars in a field then our first meet of the season is on, I think it's going to be a very busy one!

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Thanks Trigger and all concerned at ECR for putting on an excellent day out!

We made a family trip of it:

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My white one, Miss SL in the ex @BorniteIdentity Avensis and her BF in his recently acquired LS400.

This shot was early in the day, by lunchtime the field was completely filled to the very back.

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1 hour ago, JJ0063 said:

Yesterday as I turned into a junction my dash lit up like a Xmas tree with ABS and DTC warnings. Read the fault and it said right front wheel speed sensor supply - dead sensor so I thought so ordered one and fitted it today.

Lights all still on but the code has now changed to direction of rotation. Can’t work it out. Only fits one way both at the plug and physically in the hole. 
 

Don’t know if perhaps it’s a shit sensor being an Amazon prime special, or if I have another fault. I think these are a magnetic sensor rather than a physical ring like a driveshaft would have, as it’s a front sensor issue so I believe it’s built into the bearing. 
 

Pissed off now as im not sure what to do next.

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Have you used the same scan tool before and after?  Only reason I ask is because (I think) I recall you saying a friend scanned it the first time? 

Sometimes generic fault code translations are just shit and pure nonsense on cheap scanners so the same fault can read differently

If it's the same scanner and a new code has been created then it's just likely just a faulty replacement especially if it's a shitty unbranded one

I'd say to try a better branded one, such as Bosch. 

ABS sensors can't detect whether you're going backwards or forwards, only the speed of rotation, so I think it's more likely the replacement sensor has been manufactured with reverse polarity and is simply faulty, hence making the car think the reading is switched 

If your scanner allows, you could go to live data and see what reading it's giving. It will probably be a negative reading, which is complete nonsense. 

Most cheap parts like switches and sensors are simply not fit for purpose and faulty out of the box

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11 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Have you used the same scan tool before and after?  Only reason I ask is because (I think) I recall you saying a friend scanned it the first time? 

Sometimes generic fault code translations are just shit and pure nonsense on cheap scanners so the same fault can read differently

If it's the same scanner and a new code has been created then it's just likely just a faulty replacement especially if it's a shitty unbranded one

I'd say to try a better branded one, such as Bosch. 

ABS sensors can't detect whether you're going backwards or forwards, only the speed of rotation, so I think it's more likely the replacement sensor has been manufactured with reverse polarity and is simply faulty, hence making the car think the reading is switched 

If your scanner allows, you could go to live data and see what reading it's giving. It will probably be a negative reading, which is complete nonsense. 

Most cheap parts like switches and sensors are simply not fit for purpose and faulty out of the box

Yeah this is with Carly which is known to be one of the better BMW specific types, it seems to have live data for everything bar bloody ABS sensors though! No one else has scanned it 
 

I was just looking at Bosch sensors so might just chance one, can always return it if I keep it clean and it doesn’t work. 
 

Slightly confusing as on RealOEM, the part number of the Amazon one if searched, says it’ll fit my car but if I search my car and then locate the part number for the sensor, it’s a different part number. The OEM ATE BMW one I removed strangely has a part number that when I search brings up everything from ABS sensors, temp sensors and all sorts. 
 

I think the logical step as you say is to put a known good sensor on it, I could even swap the fronts to see if the fault moves.

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2 minutes ago, JJ0063 said:

Yeah this is with Carly which is known to be one of the better BMW specific types, it seems to have live data for everything bar bloody ABS sensors though! No one else has scanned it 
 

I was just looking at Bosch sensors so might just chance one, can always return it if I keep it clean and it doesn’t work. 
 

Slightly confusing as on RealOEM, the part number of the Amazon one if searched, says it’ll fit my car but if I search my car and then locate the part number for the sensor, it’s a different part number. The OEM ATE BMW one I removed strangely has a part number that when I search brings up everything from ABS sensors, temp sensors and all sorts. 
 

I think the logical step as you say is to put a known good sensor on it, I could even swap the fronts to see if the fault moves.

Yes swapping them around isn't a bad shout as long as the other isn't seized in and you risk destroying it :)

A sensor is a sensor, if they look identical then they are, broadly speaking. 

There may be differences in wire length, or part supersessions which don't especially matter 

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14 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Yes swapping them around isn't a bad shout as long as the other isn't seized in and you risk destroying it :)

A sensor is a sensor, if they look identical then they are, broadly speaking. 

There may be differences in wire length, or part supersessions which don't especially matter 

I’ve just bitten the bullet and ordered a Bosch for £27, the Amazon special was £13 and I only ordered it so it’d be here today! Worth returning it and paying the extra for a decent brand anyway tbh.

Strange thing is the Amazon one is the part number in yellow, which is non ‘active steering’ yet if I search my car on there by vin it shows the bottom one although I definitely don’t have active steering.
 

God knows. I’ve ordered the Bosch sensor matching the bottom part number so we’ll see if that makes any odds. 

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3 minutes ago, JJ0063 said:

I’ve just bitten the bullet and ordered a Bosch for £27, the Amazon special was £13 and I only ordered it so it’d be here today! Worth returning it and paying the extra for a decent brand anyway tbh.

Strange thing is the Amazon one is the part number in yellow, which is non ‘active steering’ yet if I search my car on there by vin it shows the bottom one although I’m pretty sure I don’t have whatever active steering is! 
 

God knows. I’ve ordered the Bosch sensor matching the bottom part number so we’ll see if that makes any odds. 

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Active steering alters steering angle based on vehicle speed (and of course steering wheel input) 

In other words, see what happens 😁

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Had a fairly busy weekend.  Yesterday was almost all taken up with the trip to Oxfordshire to pick up the 206CC.  The journey down was a frigging nightmare - rail replacement bus service which then got diverted due to a road closure and crawled its way through seemingly every poxy little Essex town before arriving at Ingatestone 45 minutes late.  I still had enough time to make my connection but then the (shiny new) Elizabeth Line train I was intending to take from Stratford to Paddington had a malfunction and couldn't get its doors open, so after ten minutes of faffing about at the platform it buggered off to Liverpool Street and I had to wait for the next one.  So I got my last train with about two minutes to spare, which was all a bit stressful.  Seller picked me up from the station though and he and his wife were very pleasant people, and the car is bang on for what I paid.  It's actually my first ever car with a folding hard top, which is exciting.

First job today was to have a crack at getting the MG exhaust back together properly.  I decided that the easiest way to do this would probably be to take the cat back off, and thus it proved to be - with the cat out of the way I was able to take the lump hammer to the knackered fixing studs on the silencer flange, and with a bit of judicious* bashing two of the three came out.  The third wouldn't move, and it was the most awkward one to get to - I did briefly contemplate taking the silencer off altogether to improve access, but then I decided I couldn't be arsed.  So I slathered some Gun Gum on the gasket, shoved the cat back into position and fitted it with two out of three bolts, and a pair of small G clamps either side of the broken stud to hold that bit together.  It seems to have worked well enough - there's still a very slight blow but it's the quietest it's ever been in my ownership.  As it was such a nice day I took it for a celebratory spin.

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The other main job for the day was to try and fix the passenger door window on the LDV.  That was less of a success.  I got the old regulator out after some wangling, but it turned out that the fault that was preventing the window from winding down wasn't with the regulator itself but some random electrical gremlin which I can't make head or tail of, where the motor won't wind the mechanism down when the "down" switch is pressed - despite the switch sending 12v to the connector - but will wind down fine when the wires are swapped over and the "up" switch is pressed.  So the door card is off at the moment and the window is held up using a screwdriver shoved through a handy hole in the inner door skin.  I need to find a way of getting the window to work - I might try adding an on/on switch between the "proper" window switch and the motor, to see if that does the trick.

I took the Visa to Tesco this afternoon - it turned a few heads on the way in to the car park and I got an appreciative smile from a bloke in a convertible Bini.  Then when I came out of the shop two blokes were stood behind it discussing it - one of them wandered off when I got to the car but the other one wanted to have a chat about it, and actually seemed to have  a vague idea what he was talking about which made a nice change.

This evening I went to see a mate, and I decided to take the Volvo.

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25-mile round trip, the furthest it's been for ages.  It ran absolutely spot on (although it really is a thirsty old beast...), and the headlights worked fine on the way home.  I do need to sort the instrument lights though as I had no idea how fast I was going.  

 

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I was at the Goodwood members meeting yesterday. Really nice day out but not too much to report from an AS interest point of view.  The week of bad weather had left at lot of the car park fields a mess so sadly the public classics car park was abandoned which is where a lot of the most interesting cars are. 

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I did enjoy that someone had brought this to the VIP parking area though

Race wise the highlight was the saloon car race at the end of the day, but sadly the metro hadn't qualified from its heat

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Once again Jake Hill was absolutely spectacular in his mk3 Capri

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although the race ended on a sour note as one of the Camaros got quite badly bent (driver was fine thankfully)

on a personal highlight for me, I bumped into one of my TV crushes (no, not Karun Chandhok!)

 

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