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4 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

The replace in pairs agenda really gets me, no need whatsoever to waste money on replacing components that aren't worn out or otherwise faulty, unless it's a performance car the slight difference isnt going to be noticeable. It's just a myth circulated by fast fit centres to upsell. Maybe do the other rear at that price for peace of mind but I'd leave the fronts alone if I were you. 

Realistically if a shock isn't leaking then it's not going to do it's job much worse than a brand new one. 

I always say you wouldn't be replacing it if the other hadn't gone so there's no reason to do it now, they're two independent components. 

Save your money :)

I had a single shock replaced by a main dealer on a Subaru WRX. I queried it “shouldn’t you replace them in pairs?” They just laughed and said “ that’s how Kwikfit make their money!”

 

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10 minutes ago, Metal Guru said:

I had a single shock replaced by a main dealer on a Subaru WRX. I queried it “shouldn’t you replace them in pairs?” They just laughed and said “ that’s how Kwikfit make their money!”

 

It's true tho :)

I only recommend pairs when they're both worn (obviously) or when the other side is showing signs of following, e.g slight play in a ball joint /bush or a small weep from a shock when the other side has completely failed etc. 

The one that gets me most is springs! If the spring is intact how will there ever be a perceivable difference between it and a brand new Starline one which might only last a year or two compared to the 15 year old OEM one 🤣

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I feel stretched and lacking in time and and money to give three cars the care they need so I've been thinking of downsizing .

Then Wife Shite runs out of MOT without telling us and 740 steps in again. 

I'm so confused about the right thing to do now. Maybe be more organised... I think I'll need drugs for that though. 

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19 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Realistically if a shock isn't leaking then it's not going to do it's job much worse than a brand new one

I have had dampers fail completely, with no external damage or leak at all. Absoutely zero damping effect and looked like new.

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2 hours ago, Asimo said:

I have had dampers fail completely, with no external damage or leak at all. Absoutely zero damping effect and looked like new.

In the case of a gas filled strut, entirely possible. But then you'd notice with the bouncy ride.

If there's no reason to suspect anything is wrong there's no need to change both

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Got a few bits done this weekend, although not as much as I would have liked as yesterday I got up late and the weather today was rather grotty.

Yesterday I fitted the shiny new* back seat that @Lankytim had kindly nabbed for me off of social media into the Volvo.

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Not done the fronts yet - that looks like a rather more involved job so it'll have to wait until I have more time and it's a bit warmer.  Definitely a big improvement though, and it didn't take too long to do - the longest bit was sweeping out the bits of broken glass that were under the seat from when the rear window got smashed about 15 years ago.

Then I mowed the lawn - the first time I can ever recall doing so in December, but it did need doing quite badly.  I had been meaning to do it for a few weeks to be fair, but Saturday was the first time in ages that I'd been free at a time when the grass was dry enough (thanks to a combination of a bit of sun and a stiff breeze) to be mowable.  After that I went for a bike ride, which was quite chilly due to the aforementioned breeze but at least it was dry and reasonably bright (unlike today which was twilight pretty much all day).

Today I had a brief play with the Visa, and got the offside rear indicator working by running a wire directly from the multiplug to the positive terminal on the bulb, thus bypassing the knackered PCB.  It's a bodge but it works.  

20221204_142227.thumb.jpg.2bd9038d67e9932063a2f5d90ceec7e1.jpg

I then slapped a liberal coating of Hydrate 80 over the most obvious rusty bits - it's going to have to spend the winter outside so I'm trying to stop it from deteriorating too much.  The car is actually starting pretty reliably now with the 123 ignition module connected to the battery, but it'll only run for a few minutes before it floods itself and dies.  I couldn't run it for too long at the moment anyway because the cooling fan is off waiting for me to drill and tap proper mounting holes for the ignition gubbins, but the carb is definitely going to need further attention at some point.

The only other thing I got done today was to connect up the backlighting on the Toyota's new stereo - I'd not done anything with that wire when I fitted the unit but now it's dark all the time I thought it better to have the buttons lit so I can see what I'm doing.  I gave up after that and came back indoors as it was just too bloody cold.

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23 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

Got a few bits done this weekend, although not as much as I would have liked as yesterday I got up late and the weather today was rather grotty.

Yesterday I fitted the shiny new* back seat that @Lankytim had kindly nabbed for me off of social media into the Volvo.

20221203_140915.thumb.jpg.18dc6393aff98c42a15a4a086e92f548.jpg

Not done the fronts yet - that looks like a rather more involved job so it'll have to wait until I have more time and it's a bit warmer.  Definitely a big improvement though, and it didn't take too long to do - the longest bit was sweeping out the bits of broken glass that were under the seat from when the rear window got smashed about 15 years ago.

Then I mowed the lawn - the first time I can ever recall doing so in December, but it did need doing quite badly.  I had been meaning to do it for a few weeks to be fair, but Saturday was the first time in ages that I'd been free at a time when the grass was dry enough (thanks to a combination of a bit of sun and a stiff breeze) to be mowable.  After that I went for a bike ride, which was quite chilly due to the aforementioned breeze but at least it was dry and reasonably bright (unlike today which was twilight pretty much all day).

Today I had a brief play with the Visa, and got the offside rear indicator working by running a wire directly from the multiplug to the positive terminal on the bulb, thus bypassing the knackered PCB.  It's a bodge but it works.  

20221204_142227.thumb.jpg.2bd9038d67e9932063a2f5d90ceec7e1.jpg

I then slapped a liberal coating of Hydrate 80 over the most obvious rusty bits - it's going to have to spend the winter outside so I'm trying to stop it from deteriorating too much.  The car is actually starting pretty reliably now with the 123 ignition module connected to the battery, but it'll only run for a few minutes before it floods itself and dies.  I couldn't run it for too long at the moment anyway because the cooling fan is off waiting for me to drill and tap proper mounting holes for the ignition gubbins, but the carb is definitely going to need further attention at some point.

The only other thing I got done today was to connect up the backlighting on the Toyota's new stereo - I'd not done anything with that wire when I fitted the unit but now it's dark all the time I thought it better to have the buttons lit so I can see what I'm doing.  I gave up after that and came back indoors as it was just too bloody cold.

I seem to remember the float continually sticking resulting in a jet of fuel down the carb when the float chamber was full, it’s easy to access by removing the top of the carb. Id get it all moving correctly only for it to jam again and cause flooding. So annoying! A word of advice though, there’s a manufacturers hole in the middle of the manifold and any liquid fuel ends up there leaks all over the top of the engine, it’s a bit of a fire risk. 

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The Barn Find* Estelle 130 I went to view with @barrett in the summer has resurfaced for sale now with MOT and a bit closer to me. I had been having non-buyers regret given not much else has come up and the impending ULEZ expansion but not sure if the rose tinted specs are kicking in as it wasn't just the lack of MOT and the cost of trailering from Brighton which put me off

Screenshot_20221205_131138_Chrome.jpg

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Plans are afoot for me to buy something that manages to both be shite (or at least future shite), shit, dull, and interesting all at once, and as an added bonus the purchase will be supporting a local charity. Bonus points for the fact it has so far made everyone I told I was buying it do a double take.

At least it's cheap (~scrap money) and I've got someone who's already called dibs not too far from the AS fold should I wake up in horror and realise what I've done, obviously provided its not a total dog (which given its done enough miles that it was probably used by Lisa Stansfield to find her baby, the jury is still out on!)

Seems like I only ever buy project cars in the last 4 months of the year, the 206, Sedici and Meriva were all bought around this time. 

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3 year olds wants a story...

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Ok, very good. 

Wait, I know these!

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Vauxhall Astra, orange Astra, I had a Belmontin that shape and that colour, BMW, BMW, Saab. And look those prices, pretty much Shite prices.

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Is that an orange Sierra?

Looks at the editorial, 

1992.

Of course. 

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18 hours ago, stuboy said:

Collegue asked me too checked out her car and the tester says it's high charging... so either regulator on the alternator or its the alternator itself I think... skoda octavia. 

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That's absolutely fine, especially in this cold weather. A smart charge system will bump the voltage up a little bit in the cold to get the battery topped up and balanced nice. You wouldn't want to leave the battery at 14.9V for weeks on end, but for a car battery it's fine. Plus, once the car has been running for 15 minutes the charge voltage will probably drop to a gentle ~13.6 float.

 

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Another years MOT for the Sierra. Needed a track rod end and two bits of welding on the rear arches-£185 -couldn't be bothered pulling the MIG out and freezing for that! Heres a before pic-too dark tonight. They replaced all the rusty bits you can see on the wheelarch near the door on both sides.

 

 

 

Sierra repairs 3.JPG

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Sweet.  Stereo works.  Well, sort of.

IMG_20221206_174956.jpg

Tape does anyway - which was probably the most important bit.  Radio appears to be dead.

Neither the upper control panel or steering column controls do anything.  So the radio *may* actually work, but this system as I recall has muting if off station, and the seek controls are on the upper control panel, not duplicated on the head unit itself so I can't currently try to tune into anything or switch bands.

Could it really be as simple as a dodgy connection or someone not having plugged things back in (I have an invoice for the 12V outlet having been rewired, so this will have been out to access that)?

Not holding my breath, but would be a nice surprise if so.

Also, yes it still sounds bloody decent, even on the original speakers, must have been absolutely epic back in the late 80s.

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2 hours ago, Zelandeth said:

Sweet.  Stereo works.  Well, sort of.

IMG_20221206_174956.jpg

Tape does anyway - which was probably the most important bit.  Radio appears to be dead.

Neither the upper control panel or steering column controls do anything.  So the radio *may* actually work, but this system as I recall has muting if off station, and the seek controls are on the upper control panel, not duplicated on the head unit itself so I can't currently try to tune into anything or switch bands.

Could it really be as simple as a dodgy connection or someone not having plugged things back in (I have an invoice for the 12V outlet having been rewired, so this will have been out to access that)?

Not holding my breath, but would be a nice surprise if so.

Also, yes it still sounds bloody decent, even on the original speakers, must have been absolutely epic back in the late 80s.

What’s that from?  Renault 25?

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3 hours ago, Stevebrookman said:

Another years MOT for the Sierra. Needed a track rod end and two bits of welding on the rear arches-£185 -couldn't be bothered pulling the MIG out and freezing for that! Heres a before pic-too dark tonight. They replaced all the rusty bits you can see on the wheelarch near the door on both sides.

 

 

 

Sierra repairs 3.JPG

very nice

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