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1 hour ago, Sunny Jim said:

@wuvvumengine and gearbox were removed by a local scrappies because we had to decontaminate it prior to putting it in position but let me know if you want anything else off it.

Thanks Jim.  Only thing I really need at the moment is a passenger side window regulator, but I expect that might be rather a faff to remove...

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14 hours ago, Kiltox said:

“If you need to access the engine bay fuse box, take the vehicle to a Renault dealer”

Im not kidding, it says that in the handbook. 

That's because they put the box in upside down so it has to be lifted out of the outer casing and inverted to see the fuses.

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Legislation was passed last year to give a "right to repair" on a lot of consumer electrical items, making manufacturers supply parts, publish technical info for repairers and so on.

Looks like we need something similar for cars.  Requirement 1 ought to be all fuses and bulbs should be replaceable by the user within five minutes using only a screwdriver. 

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3 minutes ago, adw1977 said:

Requirement 1 ought to be all fuses and bulbs should be replaceable by the user within five minutes using only a screwdriver. 

After having to remove a Vectra front bumper and the headlight unit to change a bloody indicator bulb a couple of weeks ago I 100% agree with this.

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9 minutes ago, adw1977 said:

Looks like we need something similar for cars.  Requirement 1 ought to be all fuses and bulbs should be replaceable by the user within five minutes using only a screwdriver. 

There's absolutely no point, new cars won't/don't have bulbs and replacing a blown fuse won't fix anything. Every lamp is going to be LED, non replaceable. The ECUs that do the switching have inbuilt overcurrent protection and will automatically reset. There are fuses on the vehicle but if they blow, it's because there is some major fault that requires proper investigation and just replacing it is fairly unlikely to get you back on the road.n 

Sadly putting fuses and bulbs in stuff is not the future of motoring

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I have always said my ideal fleet is three cars, enough redundancy if one breaks or needs work and enough variety to keep it interesting. 

I had a fleet of four, the LS, Kangoo, Rover and Subaru so needed to do something to address the situation. 

So I bought this from @sdkrc

IMG20221115081428.thumb.jpg.8ba542f203b998f2edd121ec6fef3d1e.jpg

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1 hour ago, davehedgehog31 said:

I have always said my ideal fleet is three cars, enough redundancy if one breaks or needs work and enough variety to keep it interesting. 

I had a fleet of four, the LS, Kangoo, Rover and Subaru so needed to do something to address the situation. 

So I bought this from @sdkrc

IMG20221115081428.thumb.jpg.8ba542f203b998f2edd121ec6fef3d1e.jpg

The Kangoo is a van so you're only one over...

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7 hours ago, JJ0063 said:

Scirocco has started a top mount sounding knock from the NSR so ordered a top mount and thought I’d whip it off today.

Think I’ve found the issue, my shock isn’t absorbing much. 
 

Typically these are the adaptive ones so cost a stupid amount of money! 

8B856E6A-B158-4EF8-AF96-0B52CBECEE31.jpeg

Just found you can fit normal shocks and just unplug the DCC button, meaning there will be no dash errors

That’ll do me, £30 odd for a shock rather than £280

Proper shiter, me.

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Got a Lanoguard kit for doing the Altezza. So cracked on with it. Dead easy to apply. I was being lazy (and stupid) to just go with it, as there is cheaper options. Found the smell although not horrible, doesn't half stay on your hands! 

Anyhoo, hopefully it'll keep the car protected for a while. 

While I was doing that. I saw how the wheel was sat up and it gave me ideas to how it'd look lowered. Also found the tyre won't clash the arch either. So for now I won't need to roll them. 

Snapchat-353007195.thumb.jpg.9e61fde95b7b0a09d0bb0c2f9aca7b87.jpg

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Got a Lanoguard kit for doing the Altezza. So cracked on with it. Dead easy to apply. I was being lazy (and stupid) to just go with it, as there is cheaper options. Found the smell although not horrible, doesn't half stay on your hands! 
Anyhoo, hopefully it'll keep the car protected for a while. 
While I was doing that. I saw how the wheel was sat up and it gave me ideas to how it'd look lowered. Also found the tyre won't clash the arch either. So for now I won't need to roll them. 
Snapchat-353007195.thumb.jpg.9e61fde95b7b0a09d0bb0c2f9aca7b87.jpg
Spent today spraying the VW Caravelle with waxoil. Most of it landed on the monoblock and me.

Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, JJ0063 said:

Just found you can fit normal shocks and just unplug the DCC button, meaning there will be no dash errors

That’ll do me, £30 odd for a shock rather than £280

Proper shiter, me.

Are you sure? I'd thought it would need coding out, especially with VAG. Certainly does on Audi's Magneride and that's not trivial. The ride height sensors are connected to the suspension ECU and transfer data to the headlight ECU. So no suspension ECU caused the headlights ECU to throw the headlight adjustment light on the dash. That's an MOT failure item. I bit the bullet on my TT and just replaced the shock - £450 for a rear.

Neighbour down the road has a R8 and the Magneride shocks needed replacing on that - £1k per corner. He replaced them with conventional shocks and plugged in the delete modules on each corner to keep the suspension ECU happy and thinking they're still attached. 

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3 minutes ago, SiC said:

Are you sure? I'd thought it would need coding out, especially with VAG. Certainly does on Audi's Magneride and that's not trivial. The ride height sensors are connected to the suspension ECU and transfer data to the headlight ECU. So no suspension ECU caused the headlights ECU to throw the headlight adjustment light on the dash. That's an MOT failure item. I bit the bullet on my TT and just replaced the shock - £450 for a rear.

Neighbour down the road has a R8 and the Magneride shocks needed replacing on that - £1k per corner. He replaced them with conventional shocks and plugged in the delete modules on each corner to keep the suspension ECU happy and thinking they're still attached. 

Yeah certain as when I bought the car one of the front sensors was snapped, all it does is make the little DCC button near the gearstick flash which you just unplug the button. I’ve searched the scirocco FB group and lots of people do it when they fit coilovers.

I’ve just ordered a normal shock off eBay to tide me over until I decide whether to either fit a new DCC shock or maybe even stick a set of coilovers on myself if I keep the car. 

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Went to a reindeer drive through with the toddler today. A kind of drive through light show with reindeer pens etc… 

C49858AA-30BF-46C7-A5EB-BDE90683C688.jpeg

Of course by drive through it actually meant over an hour of the car idling… 

And I’d taken the one car I own with a K-Series engine…

Can you guess…

 

 

Yep it performed perfectly.

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Covered 300+ miles in my recently-acquired Saab 9-3 this evening and it was fantastic. Cruise set to 70mph and it was ticking over at 2200rpm. No wind noise whatsoever at motorway speeds unlike most convertibles I've driven. 

I think it's a rare situation where the tall gearing meant it was probably more frugal than the equivalent manual. 

44.1mpg with an average speed of 60mph according to the trip computer. For a 210bhp petrol auto, I think that's pretty good going. 

The airbag light remains on, so I might try and investigate that tomorrow if I can muster up the enthusiasm. IMG_20221119_202246.thumb.jpg.14cc6e447c5c714e7918916440559473.jpg

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