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Father Ted

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3 hours ago, Longbridge Apologist said:

Now tooling around in my sadly departed Dad's Mk5 Golf:

1.4TSI with a 7 speed DSG. Sensible nice riding 15" alloys. Practical 5 door. 2008 but he and mum only ever done 42,000 miles in it.

I can't bring myself to move it on, so have decided it will be my reliable, comfy modern daily. It's a very relaxing thing to tool around in, even if it is of course not a sexy or desirable model.

One thing concerns me with it though and that's the DSG. At either 40mph or 70mph, gently applying revs gets it into a bit of a tizz. It'll pop down from 7th to 6th, but then almost labour like an old manual slipping the clutch under load?

Are these DSG's sealed units or need an oil change?

(Time to find a good VAG specialist somewhere nearby in SW London/N Surrey, if anyone could recommend one...)

From memory I think the DSG's need a filter and oil service every 3/4 years/40k. Different models have differing schedules.

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5 hours ago, SiC said:

Had a look at this in the light of day. Paint looks to have lost its clear coat and then sun or polish has taken the rest off?

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Fuel light is on but the gauge isn't reading minimum. I suspect the stop point is wrong looking at the gauge sweep.

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Gauge looks like someone has been in there and fiddling with it 

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Best thing of all is the engine cover the previous owner made. Iirc these suffer water in the spark plug tubes problem and ford didn't fit a cover, unlike Volvo. Anyway top marks for effort on this. 

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Probably had an instrument cluster repair hence the historical code and dodgy placement of the fuel gauge needle. 

Lol at the engine cover 🤣 the correct fix is to seal the washer jets or simply buy a Volvo rocker cover as it will fit! 

Power steering fluid level all ok? That's the only real other common issue on them. 

Looks like the 99bhp non Ti lump to me. Fuel averages 38mpg for me but late 40's is entirely possible on a run as you have found.

Being the non Ti-VCT the cambelt is pretty straightforward. If you're careful enough, you can do a cambelt on them without the cam locking tool. But they're floating pulleys and if you cock it up you will have to buy the tool to put it right. 

Would suggest doing the water pump as well, even though it's not cambelt driven, one of the bolts is for the cambelt tensioner pulley so cambelt would have to come off again if you needed to do the water pump. 

The biggest pain with the cambelt is actually getting the stretch aux belt back over the double crank pulley. Realistically you will need the special tool for this. It can be done without the tool on a two poster from underneath with lots of lever bars and faffing but I doubt it at home.

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I went to the Glenisla Classic vehicle Club Annual Barbecue today. It was a brilliant event and the first since 2019. Everybody looked so happy to be there and mingling with cars and people, including me!

Quick stop for a photo outside Kirriemuir on the way up.

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The sun came out not long after 9.30 and split the trees most of the day.

This was car of the show for me, it was superbly 1983.20220807_100430.thumb.jpg.61fba91210c033a98f05031fa72f9f3f.jpg20220807_100456.thumb.jpg.a2400bf7523697b80411c01d23eba226.jpg

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Next I rode shotgun with @Tam in his Defender on the 4x4 run. I've never been in a Land Rover and certainly haven't been off road before. Fantastic fun, great views and some lovely old Land Rovers.

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This is Tam's TD5 one, I was surprised at how fast it is!

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The tractors came too.

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Lots of other interesting cars.

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This has 25000 miles on it.

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A supercharged Riley Elf!

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My Cavalier was the only one there until another turned up at the end. 90s stuff seems to generate a lot of interest these days.

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Estate Consul 315

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After years of meaning to do so, I finally stopped off at the (remains of) last Little Chef in Scotland, at Balhaldie on the A9 just north of Dunblane. Not much to see unfortunately.

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No food here today.

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It was a fantastic event, bacon rolls, burgers and coffee were on offer. Very generous of the Club.

I also spent ages nattering to another Vauxhall You Tuber about Vauxhall shite which was great!

 

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36 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Probably had an instrument cluster repair hence the historical code and dodgy placement of the fuel gauge needle. 

I was trying to remember if these age were affected by the instrument cluster issues. Would make sense if it was repaired and not put back together the best. 

36 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Power steering fluid level all ok? That's the only real other common issue on them. 

Yeah looks it. Past MOT history of leaking rack but then it disappears. So perhaps it was fixed at some point?

37 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Looks like the 99bhp non Ti lump to me. Fuel averages 38mpg for me but late 40's is entirely possible on a run as you have found.

Being the non Ti-VCT the cambelt is pretty straightforward. If you're careful enough, you can do a cambelt on them without the cam locking tool. But they're floating pulleys and if you cock it up you will have to buy the tool to put it right. 

Would suggest doing the water pump as well, even though it's not cambelt driven, one of the bolts is for the cambelt tensioner pulley so cambelt would have to come off again if you needed to do the water pump. 

The biggest pain with the cambelt is actually getting the stretch aux belt back over the double crank pulley. Realistically you will need the special tool for this. It can be done without the tool on a two poster from underneath with lots of lever bars and faffing but I doubt it at home.

I'm 99% sure this is the non variable valve timing lump. Despite its paltry 99bhp, it actually isn't too bad. 

I've only done two cambelts before on cars. One was an E28 which was a piece of cake. My first was a Clio 172 which, despite its reputation, actually wasn't too bad a job.

The guides on this Focus make it look reasonably straight forward. Did read about the stretch belts. It says you need to cut them off but iirc you can get tools to remove as well as put on? The aux belt does put me off a bit doing it though. Tools don't look that expensive for the belt removal and timing belt locking, but it does all add to the cost.

But if I don't do it, I don't think it'll get done. Hard to justify having a garage do it on a 146k petrol with really shit bodywork and paint. Even if the rest of the car seems okay. However if I get the belt sorted, apart from maybe the clutch, there is no reason why it wouldn't live for a fair bit longer. Think I'd struggle to get my money back if I got a garage to do it though.

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14 minutes ago, SiC said:
27 minutes ago, SiC said:

I'm 99% sure this is the non variable valve timing lump. Despite its paltry 99bhp, it actually isn't too bad. 

 

Yes that's correct, it will be non VCT. Few ways to tell- 

- The design of the inlet manifold. The air box duct on the VCT unit goes between the 2nd + 3rd bank, on the non VCT unit it's between 1st + 2nd. 

- There are no solenoids on top for the dephaser pulleys, or whatever you may wish to call them 

- The VCT unit is 115bhp, the non VCT is 99bhp. 

(Yes, I have come to know these cars inside out. Suppose that's what happens when you own two of them!) 

27 minutes ago, SiC said:

I was trying to remember if these age were affected by the instrument cluster issues. Would make sense if it was repaired and not put back together the best. 

Pretty much 2004-2012 models is where the dash cluster failure is commonplace. The issues were pretty much ironed out in 2012 for the MK3. 

28 minutes ago, SiC said:

Yeah looks it. Past MOT history of leaking rack but then it disappears. So perhaps it was fixed at some point?

It's usually the pipe union at the pump that fails. It's a total pain in the ass! They all tend to have a tiny weep around the rack, both of mine do, as long as the fluid level doesn't drop then all good

28 minutes ago, SiC said:

The guides on this Focus make it look reasonably straight forward. Did read about the stretch belts. It says you need to cut them off but iirc you can get tools to remove as well as put on? The aux belt does put me off a bit doing it though. Tools don't look that expensive for the belt removal and timing belt locking, but it does all add to the cost.

You can use the tool to get them off but I usually just use a lever bar in the conventional way that you would normally remove a stretch belt. The advice is to not reuse them but it's absolutely fine to reuse the old one if its still in good nick. 

29 minutes ago, SiC said:

But if I don't do it, I don't think it'll get done. Hard to justify having a garage do it on a 146k petrol with really shit bodywork and paint. Even if the rest of the car seems okay. However if I get the belt sorted, apart from maybe the clutch, there is no reason why it wouldn't live for a fair bit longer. Think I'd struggle to get my money back if I got a garage to do it though.

I suppose it'll depend on what you want from the car. Well worth spending out for the long term I'd say as they're excellent at being "an car" and just, work! 

I wouldn't be surprised if that belt is original. The interval is 100k / 8 years but I rarely see them snap. As @sierraman would say it's usually the tensioner that gives up first. 

I paid just over £700 for my '06 plate one about 3 years ago, and the same again for my '08 plate one last year. Both have wanted for pretty much nothing in the time I've had them, they just soldier on if you keep up with the normal consumables. 

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1 hour ago, Split_Pin said:

I went to the Glenisla Classic vehicle Club Annual Barbecue today. It was a brilliant event and the first since 2019. Everybody looked so happy to be there and mingling with cars and people, including me!

Quick stop for a photo outside Kirriemuir on the way up.

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The sun came out not long after 9.30 and split the trees most of the day.

This was car of the show for me, it was superbly 1983.20220807_100430.thumb.jpg.61fba91210c033a98f05031fa72f9f3f.jpg20220807_100456.thumb.jpg.a2400bf7523697b80411c01d23eba226.jpg

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Next I rode shotgun with @Tam in his Defender on the 4x4 run. I've never been in a Land Rover and certainly haven't been off road before. Fantastic fun, great views and some lovely old Land Rovers.

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This is Tam's TD5 one, I was surprised at how fast it is!

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The tractors came too.

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Lots of other interesting cars.

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This has 25000 miles on it.

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A supercharged Riley Elf!

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My Cavalier was the only one there until another turned up at the end. 90s stuff seems to generate a lot of interest these days.

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Estate Consul 315

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After years of meaning to do so, I finally stopped off at the (remains of) last Little Chef in Scotland, at Balhaldie on the A9 just north of Dunblane. Not much to see unfortunately.

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No food here today.

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It was a fantastic event, bacon rolls, burgers and coffee were on offer. Very generous of the Club.

I also spent ages nattering to another Vauxhall You Tuber about Vauxhall shite which was great!

 

I really wish my Cav wasnt off the road, debating selling it.

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1 hour ago, Split_Pin said:

I went to the Glenisla Classic vehicle Club Annual Barbecue today. It was a brilliant event and the first since 2019. Everybody looked so happy to be there and mingling with cars and people, including me!

I was considering going to this, but then opted for being hungover and not getting out of bed till gone midday...

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Added a fuel filter in the under-bonnet area on the Laguna. I used a filter head from a SSangyong Musso 3 litre diesel that takes cheap Mercedes filters, the original Laguna filter costs £16 or so and is hidden in a wheel arch so isn’t easy to get to and swap. Running on biodiesel can cause filters to clog as crap is stripped from the fuel system so a filter change at the side of the road should now be an easy 5 min job rather than 30 minutes with the NSF off and my head stuck inside the wing. 

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3 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I suppose it'll depend on what you want from the car. Well worth spending out for the long term I'd say as they're excellent at being "an car" and just, work! 

I wouldn't be surprised if that belt is original. The interval is 100k / 8 years but I rarely see them snap. As @sierraman would say it's usually the tensioner that gives up first. 

Mostly as a car to run to the train station and to the local shops. Trying to keep the miles down on the Civic. Ideally Mrs SiC would have used it to go to work, but I think she's less keen now given it seemed to have attracted some negative attention. Plus with that cambelt as is, I wouldn't want her traveling on the smart motorways that she passes through on her commute. 

Local shops and train station runs probably would only be about 300 to 500 miles monthly max.  Not 100% sure the cambelt would last that long given the cracks it has. They're more visible on the bending around the pulley. 

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Got the Mobylette engine back together yesterday, with a shiny new head gasket and a new copper exhaust gasket as well.  Getting the bent cylinder head mounting bolt out was actually relatively easy with the rest of the engine detached from the head, as it gave a lot more room to wiggle things around.  Replacing the knackered engine mount was a bit more of a war - the old one was very reluctant to come out, even when repeatedly twatted with a lump hammer it didn't want to budge, so I ended up having to get a hacksaw blade and cut through it.  The new mount went in OK with a bit of 2-stroke oil and the lump hammer, and a shiny new cylinder head mounting bolt is holding the engine closer to the angle that it should be at.  Something slightly funny has happened with the wiring though - I got the bike fired up, pulled the brake lever and the brake light came on, pulled it again and no light.  It's not the bulb so I'm not sure what's happened there - that's for another day though.  The kick start was also slipping, so I took the assembly off to see what was what - there was nothing obviously wrong other than a bit of wear on some of the teeth, so I put it back on and it now works fine.  Odd.

I took the bike for a quick spin and it's definitely pulling a lot better now it has all of its compression back.  I did run into an issue though in that the primary drive belt ended up fouling on the exhaust bottom mounting bolt - I'd used a bolt I had already and it's a bit too long, the belt clears it fine at idle but what hadn't occurred to me at the time was that once the variator pulley opens up it pushes the belt down onto the bolt head.  So I now need a new drive belt and a shorter exhaust bolt.

I fitted another new split CV boot to the Renault 6.  I bought a slightly better quality one and this time it went on relatively easily - I think the rubber is stretchier than the one I bought before.  With some nice fresh grease in the UJ it's now usable again, although I still need to sort out the sticky brake caliper - that will be next on the list once I've got the Volvo's brakes back together.

On the subject of which I've been having a poke around the other rear caliper off the Volvo.  This one is actually in a worse state than the first one I looked at - one of the dust seals has completely rotted and the pad retaining spring also disintegrated when I took it out.  I've got a new set of seals and a spring to go on though so that's OK.  I just need to take the caliper back to the car and get the pistons pumped out so I can clean them up and grease them, which will hopefully cure the sticking.

I did another partial coolant change on the Caliber - there's still a fair bit of oil in there but a lot less than there was.  I've added a bit of antifreeze and I'm going to run it a bit longer to hopefully clean the pipes out a little more, then I'm going to do a full drain and refill with the proper amount of antifreeze.  It's still behaving itself other than that.

I put the 107 up on the ramps to have a look at the exhaust blow situation.  It does seem that it's just coming from around the manifold gasket as I couldn't feel or hear anything escaping from anywhere else.  I'm not sure now whether it's the gasket that has gone though - the manifold itself is in a bit of a poor state.  Problem is the manifold and cat are one unit on those so replacements aren't particularly cheap.  There's also the fun of getting the old one off - the two bottom mounting nuts don't seem to be in quite such bad shape as I'd initially thought (what I thought was rust was in fact caked-on oil) but of the two top bolts one is almost impossible to get a socket onto as the heat shield is in the way - and the heat shield is held on by that very same bolt.  So not sure how that would work.  I'm going to leave it for now anyway as it only causes an issue when I run the heater blower, which doesn't happen very often at this time of year.  I don't want to start chucking money at it as I bought it to save myself money, and if I spend more keeping it on the road than it's saving me in fuel that kind of defeats the point.

I had another look at the rear wheel bearing on the 121.  I think it's the outer bearing that's gone again - annoying as that's the only bit that's new.  It seems to have got some grit in it as it feels a bit crunchy when I spin it.  I did do rather a hurried job of fitting it to be fair.  So I'm going to take everything off and give it a proper clean and degrease, then refit with lots of nice new grease and see if it lasts a bit longer next time...

I have too many cars.

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For the first time in my driving career I've booked a car I own in for its 3rd consecutive mot in my ownership 😂

Hoping the rust on the wing is an advisory at worst (tiny pin hole but nothing jagged etc) and the indicator not staying on indicating left is the same advisory as last year. Best ask a neighbor for a quick hand checking the back bulbs too

I'll get it vacuumed out in the week and remove the bin liner I'd covered the spare wheel in as it's tatty and hanging down now. Everything else can be in the hands of the shite gods (not happening until the 19th so got a little while to procrastinate about it yet 😂 Might go into the office on the Thursday and give it a beating to make sure it doesn't blow shit out during the test, which it doesn't normally but one can't be too careful 

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24 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

For the first time in my driving career I've booked a car I own in for its 3rd consecutive mot in my ownership 😂

Hoping the rust on the wing is an advisory at worst (tiny pin hole but nothing jagged etc) and the indicator not staying on indicating left is the same advisory as last year. Best ask a neighbor for a quick hand checking the back bulbs too

I'll get it vacuumed out in the week and remove the bin liner I'd covered the spare wheel in as it's tatty and hanging down now. Everything else can be in the hands of the shite gods (not happening until the 19th so got a little while to procrastinate about it yet 😂 Might go into the office on the Thursday and give it a beating to make sure it doesn't blow shit out during the test, which it doesn't normally but one can't be too careful 

If you're concerned about sharp edges, just stick some gaffa tape over the hole before the test.  Or - if you're friendly with the tester - explain that you're happy to put tape on it for the test and then remove it straight after.  He may tell you not to bother!

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10 minutes ago, BorniteIdentity said:

If you're concerned about sharp edges, just stick some gaffa tape over the hole before the test.  Or - if you're friendly with the tester - explain that you're happy to put tape on it for the test and then remove it straight after.  He may tell you not to bother!

It's not quite that bad yet but will be if I ignore it for another year... Tempted to just get a new wing and yolo it with silver spray paint, the rest of the car isn't mint so that doesn't bother me! Only bit of major rust on the whole car, must be road rash

I'll stick some fresh rust converter on it to make it look like I'm doing something about it, and now you mention it stick some gaffa tape in the car and ask when I drop it off, if he sucks air through his teeth I'll 'fix it' before leaving it with him 😂

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3 hours ago, beko1987 said:

It's not quite that bad yet but will be if I ignore it for another year... Tempted to just get a new wing and yolo it with silver spray paint, the rest of the car isn't mint so that doesn't bother me! Only bit of major rust on the whole car, must be road rash

I'll stick some fresh rust converter on it to make it look like I'm doing something about it, and now you mention it stick some gaffa tape in the car and ask when I drop it off, if he sucks air through his teeth I'll 'fix it' before leaving it with him 😂

If gaffa tape doesnt appeal, you could drill it out, paint it and pop a grommet in the new hole :) = no sharp edges

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1 hour ago, horriblemercedes said:

That should be an advisory at most. The test is if the switch operates them, not what the switch does afterwards.

Yes it was last year. I should have fixed it by now but the thought of removing the airbag on an early 000s Citroën fills me with dread 😂 I've got so used to just holding the indicator down and cornering one handed now I forget it's broken. Same guy will be testing it too, same guy answered the phone earlier anyway! 

My silver laguna used to not self cancel either and that was amazing tbh, I prefer indicators broken not working properly! 

Rust is a small pinhole away from an edge so should be fine. Will bring some stuff to the FoD and make a half arsed attempt at something on saturday

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After nearly 11 years the Mondeo has left the fleet, a shame to see a good car scrapped but it has served its purpose as a work car which did its job very well but lacked any character or driving pleasure, still sad to see it go  and need to update my signature

image.thumb.jpeg.3714999e59095db5c00fe764de327d14.jpeg

On a more positive note the Cortina got us to Stratford and back yesterday and drove nicely with the new electronic ignition, time to book the ferry and hotels for Cortina’s to Cortina next month!
image.thumb.jpeg.ee2f8ecddc73b2dcddf63e5236f593b9.jpeg

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Just now, Shite Ron said:

After nearly 11 years the Mondeo has left the fleet, a shame to see a good car scrapped but it has served its purpose as a work car which did its job very well but lacked any character or driving pleasure, still sad to see it go  and need to update my signature

image.thumb.jpeg.3714999e59095db5c00fe764de327d14.jpeg

On a more positive note the Cortina got us to Stratford and back yesterday and drove nicely with the new electronic ignition, time to book the ferry and hotels for Cortina’s to Cortina next month!
image.thumb.jpeg.ee2f8ecddc73b2dcddf63e5236f593b9.jpeg

The Mondeos really are good, underestimated in fact. the 2.0 TDCI I wouldnt say is bullet-proof but its certainly reliable enough.

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