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1 hour ago, Sunny Jim said:

@Fumbler - forgive me if I'm teaching my granny to suck eggs - tape the bottom of the new cable to the top of the new one. lubricate it with some washing-up liquid then pull it through from the bottom:
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-worked for me anyway and helped ensure the new cable followed the route of the old one.

Tis a good idea which I shall probably do myself. Rob @ Chevronics has offered to talk me through it over speakerphone which is very kind of him. I can't imagine it being too hard to do.

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1 hour ago, Fumbler said:

Tis a good idea which I shall probably do myself. Rob @ Chevronics has offered to talk me through it over speakerphone which is very kind of him. I can't imagine it being too hard to do.

If it's the same as the Mk I there are two cables - one that comes up from the gearbox and a coupler just on the engine side of the bulkhead, so the bit you need to thread through is only about a foot long.

Of course the bit that's snapped on mine is at the gearbox end, which disappears down the back of the engine, connecting to the gearbox somewhere I can't even find by touch, never mind see.

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13 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

If it's the same as the Mk I there are two cables - one that comes up from the gearbox and a coupler just on the engine side of the bulkhead, so the bit you need to thread through is only about a foot long.

Of course the bit that's snapped on mine is at the gearbox end, which disappears down the back of the engine, connecting to the gearbox somewhere I can't even find by touch, never mind see.

Both marks use two piece systems, but the mk.1 cable is different to the mk.2 apparently. Chevronics differentiates between the two at least.

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Has anyone had or have any experience of a 2017(66) Ford EcoSport ZETEC TURBO,36,000 miles , 1 litre 3 cyl .

  Not for me ,asking for sis in law , thinking of getting one ... Anything to look out for or check . Having never bought a car that was worth doing an HPI check or any other online checks , does anyone know of a freebie website or cheap but comprehensive place that does the accident claims check etc etc.

Tia🤞

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16 minutes ago, mitsisigma01 said:

Having never bought a car that was worth doing an HPI check or any other online checks , does anyone know of a freebie website or cheap but comprehensive place that does the accident claims check etc etc.

@LightBulbFun - are you able to help?

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26 minutes ago, mitsisigma01 said:

Has anyone had or have any experience of a 2017(66) Ford EcoSport ZETEC TURBO,36,000 miles , 1 litre 3 cyl .

  Not for me ,asking for sis in law , thinking of getting one ... Anything to look out for or check . Having never bought a car that was worth doing an HPI check or any other online checks , does anyone know of a freebie website or cheap but comprehensive place that does the accident claims check etc etc.

Tia🤞

 

9 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

@LightBulbFun - are you able to help?

I sadly cant help much for accident claims and HPI stuff

my focus is the DVLA and what data I can get out of it for Invacar research :) (so stuff like keeper changes, registration mark changes, any scrapped markers, chassis numbers and engine numbers etc!)

stuff like accident damage etc would be recorded outside the DVLA (apart from any insurance markers, but my fancy tool does not spit those out)

but you can find those if you start to make an advert on Auto trader when you shove the reg in, it will tell you if it has any insurance category markers against it :)

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41 minutes ago, mitsisigma01 said:

Has anyone had or have any experience of a 2017(66) Ford EcoSport ZETEC TURBO,36,000 miles , 1 litre 3 cyl .

  Not for me ,asking for sis in law , thinking of getting one ... Anything to look out for or check . Having never bought a car that was worth doing an HPI check or any other online checks , does anyone know of a freebie website or cheap but comprehensive place that does the accident claims check etc etc.

Tia🤞

I use the this 1.99 check a lot.. It tells you if it's stolen, crashed, been in a salvage auction, no of owners etc.

https://totalcarcheck.co.uk/

If it's a private sale and it's a decent amount of cash then it's worth the 8.99 to do the check to make sure it's not on finance.

The 1.0 ecoboost didn't have the best of reputation in the early days. When things went wrong they went badly wrong quickly,  not sure if they've resolved it or not now.

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I've been running around in the Mazda a bit and, annoyingly, the rear wheel bearing is getting noisy again.  I'm not sure whether it's because it's a duff bearing, or I didn't put enough grease in it, or I overtightened the hub nut (although I'm pretty sure I didn't do that), or what, which makes it awkward to know what to do to avoid it happening again.  I now have two spare bearing sets so it's not an issue to replace one, but I don't want to have to keep doing it every couple of hundred miles...

I've been looking to buy a modernish (as in this century) diesel luxobarge again - something like the W220 S-Class I had last year, but a bit newer.  Annoyingly though everything in that category seems to be over the Group 40 limit on my insurance policy, even though none of them are performance cars by any normal standards.  Even a V6 diesel Jag XF is too high.  I really can't justify taking out a separate insurance policy for what is essentially going to be a toy, so I think I might have to set my sights a little lower.  Not too much lower though or I'm not going to gain anything over the Rover 75, which is going to be pressed back into daily duty now it's passed the MOT.

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I'm getting a bit bored of the Micra now that I'm commuting in it every day again. It's competant on the road- but not very comfortable, there's now a clonk in the nearside rear, the front crossmember is rotten from the inside out and the suspension is stiff. The trouble is, once I stop driving it for a month or two, I'll like it again and, economically, there's zero reason for me to get rid of it.

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12 hours ago, wuvvum said:

I've been running around in the Mazda a bit and, annoyingly, the rear wheel bearing is getting noisy again.  I'm not sure whether it's because it's a duff bearing, or I didn't put enough grease in it, or I overtightened the hub nut (although I'm pretty sure I didn't do that), or what, which makes it awkward to know what to do to avoid it happening again.  I now have two spare bearing sets so it's not an issue to replace one, but I don't want to have to keep doing it every couple of hundred miles...

I presume you're confirmed the origin of the noise is not the drum brakes ? I've been caught out before...

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11 hours ago, mitsisigma01 said:

@Fumbler, its not French , that's good enough reason to keep it !!

https://www.centralpanels.co.uk/product/nissan-micra-k11-1993-2002-new-lower-front-crossmember/

£34.99 delivered , little bit of welding ... Job jobbed. 

Knocking from the rear ... Turn the stereo up 😁

Yes but time.

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When I serviced my daily Audi A4 recently I noticed the rear pads were looking low, but not an urgent job. Well, yesterday the job became urgent as the inner pad wore down to metal.

On replacing the pads (and now discs too) it became clear why the rapid rate of wear had caught me off guard, the upper slider pins were seized on both sides. All now freed off and reassembled the brakes feel so much better, we do get used to how our cars degenerate around us. Onwards and upwards............

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14 hours ago, wuvvum said:

I've been running around in the Mazda a bit and, annoyingly, the rear wheel bearing is getting noisy again.  I'm not sure whether it's because it's a duff bearing, or I didn't put enough grease in it, or I overtightened the hub nut (although I'm pretty sure I didn't do that), or what, which makes it awkward to know what to do to avoid it happening again.  I now have two spare bearing sets so it's not an issue to replace one, but I don't want to have to keep doing it every couple of hundred miles...

I've been looking to buy a modernish (as in this century) diesel luxobarge again - something like the W220 S-Class I had last year, but a bit newer.  Annoyingly though everything in that category seems to be over the Group 40 limit on my insurance policy, even though none of them are performance cars by any normal standards.  Even a V6 diesel Jag XF is too high.  I really can't justify taking out a separate insurance policy for what is essentially going to be a toy, so I think I might have to set my sights a little lower.  Not too much lower though or I'm not going to gain anything over the Rover 75, which is going to be pressed back into daily duty now it's passed the MOT.

Saaaaaab.

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Did some more VAG Turd Polishing last night.

Used some vanish on the minging interior to try bringing it up to an acceptable standard to sit on. Seats are still wet so not fully sure how it's come out yet. But initially looks better. Needs a pro going over it really.
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Nice to see an A4 that hasn't got it's soft touch buttons completely worn off too
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The warning triangle cover in the boot is broken and rattles around. As usual with this age VAG, it's full of crap thin plastic. In this case it's snapped off and no easy way to fix. Perfect time for a reusable cable tie.
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Next up was the glovebox. The lid falls off when you open it. Hinge is broken - TADIS. Removal of the glovebox was 5x 8mm bolts.
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The hinge breaks because the soft close damper siezes up and puts too much load on the hinge+lid. Of course the design being too weak is another shit point too.
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I paid twice the price for the "better" repair kit. Tbh I can't see it was much better than cheaper kits and won't bother again.
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Hinges came out by knocking these pins out.
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Bodge kit is essentially a bent bit of metal that you screw self tappers into the plastic underneath.
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The internet suggests making a hole in the back to put lube down.
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I then took it apart to see how it worked. Basically it's a tube with a seal in. At this point I realised making a hole in it is stupid as it looses the damping effect. Oh well, at least it won't break again.
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I stuck lube down it anyway and put it all back together.
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Glove box then just pops back in. Interesting to note how easy it is to access most of the blend flap arms. On many cars are a nightmare.
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A new drivers side window regulator arrived too. A fifteen quid eBay special, so we will see how awful it ends up being to fit.
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