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1 hour ago, TheOtherStu said:

Does the 3ZZ burn oil?
The 1ZZ does pre-2006. Oil control rings get gummed up. Burns oil.
Strangely, the 2ZZ doesn't apparently (I bloody hope not)

I dodged a bullet. I was considering a 2.2 D-4D Avensis estate. Apparently, it's a horror of an engine. Well known HGF, even more so than the K Series.

 

Going to look at 2 C Class Mercedes estates tomorrow. Relatively modern ones, but starship miles of course.

Also just contacted a guy about a 2008 E Class Diesel estate that's only got 96,000 on it. I'm not quite sure what's wrong with it, but it's in London, so most definitely a ULEZ throwaway.

EDIT: Just did a cheap car check on it. He forgot to mention it was a Cat C. I've nothing against Cat C/D cars, but I only want this for a year and it was an absolute pain in the arse to sell the last Cat D I had.

I am not an expert on this but I have learned that several Toyota engines from this time can use oil. And the 2ZZ engine I do not know how it is. If you search online for this, you will probably find some information.

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23 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

I am not an expert on this but I have learned that several Toyota engines from this time can use oil. And the 2ZZ engine I do not know how it is. If you search online for this, you will probably find some information.

The 2ZZ has Yamaha stamped onto the block. It really is that good. 

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3 hours ago, TheOtherStu said:

Does the 3ZZ burn oil?
The 1ZZ does pre-2006. Oil control rings get gummed up. Burns oil.
Strangely, the 2ZZ doesn't apparently (I bloody hope not)

I dodged a bullet. I was considering a 2.2 D-4D Avensis estate. Apparently, it's a horror of an engine. Well known HGF, even more so than the K Series.

 

Going to look at 2 C Class Mercedes estates tomorrow. Relatively modern ones, but starship miles of course.

Also just contacted a guy about a 2008 E Class Diesel estate that's only got 96,000 on it. I'm not quite sure what's wrong with it, but it's in London, so most definitely a ULEZ throwaway.

EDIT: Just did a cheap car check on it. He forgot to mention it was a Cat C. I've nothing against Cat C/D cars, but I only want this for a year and it was an absolute pain in the arse to sell the last Cat D I had.

The 2.2 is not a horror of an engine, just as the K Series isn’t (in any tune). What it does have - is a very well documented issue. But, in fairness, it’s a far more advanced and (I think) superior engine. In rude health, the 2.2 is streets ahead of the 2.0. Immeasurably.

The 2.0 has a great reputation, and I’m a fan. But, in all honesty, a 2.0d knocking out 115bhp in the year 2010 really OUGHT to run forever. And ever.

Just the same as the 3sfe petrol engine has a better reputation than the 1zz-fe. But the latter is still a far superior thing. They didn’t all suffer after all.

Just my 2p.

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Currently on the hunt for a thermostat housing Vauxhall part number 24418432 after snapping the egr lower bolts and failing to repair the housing. The egr bolts on as part of this housing and I snapped both, tried welding 10mm nuts on and snapped them flush, put on pillar drill and tried easy outs; didn't budget then drilled the bolts out and tried tapping new threads..... one side was OK and then the other failed due to corrosion/bad luck. Will end up tapping out to too big a size to fit.
Vauxhall can supply one for £460.
Struggling with used as no ones answering their messages but this seems more common on the astra 1.6 then the zafira 1.6.
Simple job while my aunties away on holiday for the week.......34558bacc3b215ee1c42d35f78ced60d.jpg

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6 minutes ago, louiepj said:

Currently on the hunt for a thermostat housing Vauxhall part number 24418432 after snapping the egr lower bolts and failing to repair the housing. The egr bolts on as part of this housing and I snapped both, tried welding 10mm nuts on and snapped them flush, put on pillar drill and tried easy outs; didn't budget then drilled the bolts out and tried tapping new threads..... one side was OK and then the other failed due to corrosion/bad luck. Will end up tapping out to too big a size to fit.
Vauxhall can supply one for £460.
Struggling with used as no ones answering their messages but this seems more common on the astra 1.6 then the zafira 1.6.
Simple job while my aunties away on holiday for the week.......34558bacc3b215ee1c42d35f78ced60d.jpg

Searched for the part number on ebay but on Opel and found this below in Lithuania for 35,99 GBP

Image 01 - Opel Astra H 2005 Petrol Thermostat housing 24418432 ARA156631

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393511571154?epid=1515294743&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5b9f1e0ed2:g:a5sAAOSw1uhhGldF&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSU8qUIAeVPdz29zRlje3Lg4i6U2pcDv1XTTwCKdBrwwfNNJLaVz9hlX%2BKJOKQAVKFMkQmQUweSKU8MH8d5x94v7oNx%2BTeQTZs9Pz3AuT%2BgCd40Bj1Jn25akhuCXWSV6rEIkutykWhkhcN0v6u8t%2B%2FPfTxRF3Z0h9O%2BaRg32t4V7jOqp8vsXmSxIZmRWUwsbEVKer0tyIxjse8MJkwJOpI95F75nx1uMzGIHb9nQ%2BwUVWunicXrxjIo7sjNhNMgcSE%2FLjye3eCAZsIRC03BFCKGrrSkTRiUcdscjxinxZ%2BOW7YDsMUfbaY23rkGeNDA3LcAAQoa3mx09gKZG1dsBbg0B1gH03C6HQsWKqNorIXrPnYK8scuoTpDlruAmekNebD0sNz6v%2BW66fbrJ%2BVjfn6bZ7YhyIAr4uAGWIDSWJc3ToDuYJtXV2U1DX8ie0pq0j8hqJtTFz7iQE7pQNZc2AwIH%2FZOVdKiQ5oAIqllcMXGjS9ktLOZzWClhWe9q9N0u7FwnI6IB5LLyONwORyw7%2BnLX4iZ9iuJoSm1lLiuxlg%2BPDNK4p5e%2FJVc1wL1WNP8tRnqdtU1mrARogcT2cvlU%2B0tKX3ypQ22U4ygvbL1zHxFMbE8gwgUdd%2F724sY8Dhou12GQ3YBDDRW3yiPFIY318GHghNxm6TlCkUeThN8W4KELaYKEUMdp2h93Kb8s1plmCl5oEQRe3sLsbv7d8dujSSMveHT0lLQ60ew%2FCu34nCHL7f2H2JABlmYdp7USE4TibAaJvdabXYzlq3YtzdI3ZCeuOp3HVxSztAeSpGjxM1x0WdRSGgA6U6A2p61zZaJqLXG9%2FHp4b8ERseP7F5tldPuQ%3D%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM9sfbjJdf

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marvelous marvin, the mini-metro has achieved an MOT pass.

on the second time of asking, mind, but a pass is a pass. its take a real good flush of  the brake fluid, and the front callipers have needed some persuasion to get them working, but now a least they are functioning as they should. no wonder there seemed to be little or no brakes on the car on the  drive over there!

what did it fail on? two worn ball joints, with an advise for brake imbalance on both axils.

the worn ball joints were mentioned as an advisory on the last MOT several years ago.

now it has had the ball joints changed, and the brake balance advisory notes have been addressed. and it now has a shiny MOT pass to show for it.

which is nice. 

only thing i need do now, is find it some winter quarters for it to wait until the better weather in the spring.

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27 minutes ago, BorniteIdentity said:

The 2.2 is not a horror of an engine, just as the K Series isn’t (in any tune). What it does have - is a very well documented issue. But, in fairness, it’s a far more advanced and (I think) superior engine. In rude health, the 2.2 is streets ahead of the 2.0. Immeasurably.

The 2.0 has a great reputation, and I’m a fan. But, in all honesty, a 2.0d knocking out 115bhp in the year 2010 really OUGHT to run forever. And ever.

Just the same as the 3sfe petrol engine has a better reputation than the 1zz-fe. But the latter is still a far superior thing. They didn’t all suffer after all.

Just my 2p.

Appreciate your thoughts and thank you.

Agree about the 2.0D. That's absolutely woeful. Mercedes get ~170bhp out of their fairly recent 2.1 unit and yet keep the CO2 down to 104g.

3 hours ago, Dick Longbridge said:

Swine! 😅

No description available.

Now has a Lotus cover on it (neither the Corolla or Celica ones actually fit inside an MR2 engine bay)

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6 minutes ago, TheOtherStu said:

 

No description available.

Now has a Lotus cover on it (neither the Corolla or Celica ones actually fit inside an MR2 engine bay)

Swine ad infinitum! 

really regret selling the bargainous Corolla T Sport I bought to 2ZZ my MR2 a few years back. The 190 lumps seem to be harder and harder to source for reasonable ££ now. 

I bet it's a proper hooligan on the road. Any videos? 

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Little catch up from yesterday’s outings… 

Took the 2CV down to Shrewsbury to a meeting of the “Revs” group at a cafe there. Bacon was adequate and whilst I was the youngest person there by some way, a nice bunch. 
CBE27819-24F3-44CF-ABA2-FD9DEBA74C63.jpeg

I knew of another event too, at the Iron Works centre, and as the Revs thing was only brief and I had to pass anyway it would have been churlish not to pop in wouldn’t it. Turns out that they forecast 400 cars and got about 1500!!! A fair few fiestas with pop and bang maps etc but amongst all these there were a few nice things… 

59587D0E-920E-44A2-BD1F-22D1B92DDED2.jpeg

AA9ECA18-B3FD-4894-8CB1-2DAFC29FC8EA.jpegBD22DC17-20C6-4364-807F-D572578DABD9.jpegBEB0E2E1-2752-4B4F-9B52-306B3D35C9C8.jpeg36FEBD1E-2B16-435E-A873-DFBD4A4E59E7.jpeg

Oooh a Micra! 
D6F88F09-DEB9-49A8-A780-D52CA748FD78.jpegEF8776E1-B3F8-41DE-B9C4-8A9C7B6EC7DC.jpeg926EC3B1-B5ED-416E-AE7C-3DFCE9B202C9.jpeg309F8AC4-93A5-4706-AC14-570C4DF152CB.jpeg8A98615E-DAF5-40F9-A601-453BCC773D93.jpeg4D63D841-5643-4407-BBB5-79A1C6601864.jpeg3394EF51-4CDE-4A41-B257-5B301F4E3003.jpeg0EFF6634-18C4-4DD4-A774-F4BC5DE57B8C.jpeg

My friend Mark owns this hilarious specimen! 
0722E87F-0A28-40F2-A396-5DA7F3E85AF1.jpeg

This 100NX looked lovely (until you looked closer and saw the rust…)

61B7E5FB-CC6C-4A82-A8CD-53086F6491B9.jpeg8ADF1788-15B6-411F-AE42-7E92454C53E3.jpeg

There were even things like this if they floated you boat! D8608A8D-C7A7-42A2-8FC4-659BF51BF304.jpeg

But undoubtedly the weirdest specimen…. 
34C11A22-E9EC-4D64-BE7E-B9E16AC77A76.jpegAA9BBEE8-DC75-4EAA-AED9-2ABF4A9AF84D.jpeg8AABFC30-3ACB-4B82-AC54-E351A6F6B6C2.jpeg

P100 based by the looks of things. Mental! 

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On 10/24/2021 at 6:50 PM, stuboy said:

Mini meet up with some friends at the a249 diner.. Great food as usual and there was some of those fabulous people cruisers...lol

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mmm a gold Street Cruiser how wonderful. I almost added one to my Cruiser collection a few months ago but it was f°cked 

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20ft from work in the mk3 escort estate bASe this happened:

CuVoHWZ.jpeg

Well shit. Rear axel felt like it god damm fell straight off. Same thing happened on my Mk1 fiesta but with the front drivers side tie bar about 2 years ago. Had an ask around and can't seem to find any so looks like I'll have to fabracooble some together for both sides.

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I'm having an absolute nightmare with Mrs_Jon's Clio 172 and its braking system and would love some knowledgeable advice, if anyone can help! 

For reasons of ineptitude on my part, I ended up replacing the NSR caliper, after the tiny metal bar that holds the pads in place dislodged - and took the pads with it. This meant the piston over stretched when applying the brakes (all without danger, thankfully) and filled with fluid, hence the replacement. 

Now, despite all being put back together and no leaks present, there's either something else broken as a result, or I just can't purge the system of air. Bleeding the brakes multiple times the traditional way gives little/no bubbles, so Clio 172 forum answers suggest I could've got air in the ABS system, which needs a diagnostics tool to purge. There's a version called rstuner which seems to be able to do this but the results seem sketchy at best, with some users being able to get it to work and others having no luck. Plus it's over 200 quid, so hardly something to try on a whim.

The pedal feel is OK when bled but when the engine is switched on, the pedal goes to the floor and the brakes don't work well. Engine switched off, the pedal feel returns to OK but I can still get the NSR disc to shift a bit by hand, if I really try. Internet folklore in general suggests this could be the master cylinder or brake booster goosed, which could match up with the piston stretching and filling with fluid, originally.

The main issue is that this is a daily driver and if it does need to go to a Renault garage for diagnostics, I don't have much choice here in rural(ish) NZ....

So yeah, any advice/further things to test would be much appreciated!

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2 hours ago, Jon said:

I'm having an absolute nightmare with Mrs_Jon's Clio 172 and its braking system and would love some knowledgeable advice, if anyone can help! 

For reasons of ineptitude on my part, I ended up replacing the NSR caliper, after the tiny metal bar that holds the pads in place dislodged - and took the pads with it. This meant the piston over stretched when applying the brakes (all without danger, thankfully) and filled with fluid, hence the replacement. 

Now, despite all being put back together and no leaks present, there's either something else broken as a result, or I just can't purge the system of air. Bleeding the brakes multiple times the traditional way gives little/no bubbles, so Clio 172 forum answers suggest I could've got air in the ABS system, which needs a diagnostics tool to purge. There's a version called rstuner which seems to be able to do this but the results seem sketchy at best, with some users being able to get it to work and others having no luck. Plus it's over 200 quid, so hardly something to try on a whim.

The pedal feel is OK when bled but when the engine is switched on, the pedal goes to the floor and the brakes don't work well. Engine switched off, the pedal feel returns to OK but I can still get the NSR disc to shift a bit by hand, if I really try. Internet folklore in general suggests this could be the master cylinder or brake booster goosed, which could match up with the piston stretching and filling with fluid, originally.

The main issue is that this is a daily driver and if it does need to go to a Renault garage for diagnostics, I don't have much choice here in rural(ish) NZ....

So yeah, any advice/further things to test would be much appreciated!

@jaypee @320touring

Any pointers after recent bleeding

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2 hours ago, Jon said:

I'm having an absolute nightmare with Mrs_Jon's Clio 172 and its braking system and would love some knowledgeable advice, if anyone can help! 

For reasons of ineptitude on my part, I ended up replacing the NSR caliper, after the tiny metal bar that holds the pads in place dislodged - and took the pads with it. This meant the piston over stretched when applying the brakes (all without danger, thankfully) and filled with fluid, hence the replacement. 

Now, despite all being put back together and no leaks present, there's either something else broken as a result, or I just can't purge the system of air. Bleeding the brakes multiple times the traditional way gives little/no bubbles, so Clio 172 forum answers suggest I could've got air in the ABS system, which needs a diagnostics tool to purge. There's a version called rstuner which seems to be able to do this but the results seem sketchy at best, with some users being able to get it to work and others having no luck. Plus it's over 200 quid, so hardly something to try on a whim.

The pedal feel is OK when bled but when the engine is switched on, the pedal goes to the floor and the brakes don't work well. Engine switched off, the pedal feel returns to OK but I can still get the NSR disc to shift a bit by hand, if I really try. Internet folklore in general suggests this could be the master cylinder or brake booster goosed, which could match up with the piston stretching and filling with fluid, originally.

The main issue is that this is a daily driver and if it does need to go to a Renault garage for diagnostics, I don't have much choice here in rural(ish) NZ....

So yeah, any advice/further things to test would be much appreciated!

Hello @Jon

We recently had success after replacing a both rear calipers on the burd's 172 by doing the following (as researched by @jaypee)

Engine off bleed the car in the following order:

Right rear

Left front

Left rear

Right front

This bleeds both the brake circuits independently and should get all the air out.

For each corner, the process was:

Pump pedal a few times

Hold down

Open bleed nipple.

Close bleed nipple.

Repeat as required.

 

Other potential issue especially if it's a phase 1 square headlight 172 is that the servo may be rotten. If you discover that is the case, let me know and I can likely source one here

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Stow on the Wold this afternoon.  2 hour roadside parking bay

Nissan Stanza SGL

Daily use Shocker!

Photo to prove it happened 

WP_20211025_13_17_31_Pro.thumb.jpg.74d03044bd11c4220e104e9d03a2ad85.jpg

Bar a dink in the door it was clean clean inside and out.  Proper Badermatic too

The reason for the excitement ?

IMG_0538.thumb.PNG.55f55199b2664058a88da5cb7f9bfc87.PNG

Yes of course I snuck about waiting for the owner, to strike up that purchase conversation.  

Eventualy wife and child pulled me away as they spotted ANOTHER EFFING fudge shop

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Heck of a day yesterday - job interview first thing after a white-knuckle commute on the M40 and M25 (reason for white knuckles later), then over to Worpleston, Surrey, to pick up an old B+D Workmate - turns out I’d stumbled across a couple in their 70s clearing out the wife’s late brother’s house. I was shown the garage and told “help yourself, take anything you can fit in the car and you can come back tomorrow if there’s anything that won’t fit”. Needless to say, I wandered off two hours later with the 106 nearly on the bump stops, laden down with delicious quantities of beautiful 1940s/50s handtools and a hefty quantity of all-but-unused Draper Professional/Makita/Bosch clobber. 
 

Next stop of the day - a friend’s garage with an Automotech scissor lift and a lovely Dewalt battery impact. I’d been here a fortnight ago replacing the rear brake shoes but found that the brakes were still at brown-trousers levels; massive brake travel before anything approaching lockup, at any speed. The theory with these is that you fit the rear shoes, back the (automatic) adjusters off as far as they’ll go, fit the drum and stomp on the pedal and listen for the adjuster ratcheting in and taking up the space in the drum. That didn’t work last time so I took the drums off, manually adjusted the ratchet so that the shoes were as close at possible to the drums, while still allowing me to refit said drums over the top. Old shoes shown in picture - suspiciously new wheel cylinders and shoes, which makes me think someone else has been in here trying to improve matters relatively recently. I’ve kept the ‘old’ shoes for spares. 
 

Also replaced a totally destroyed handbrake cable - slightly suspicious that the complete lack of n/s handbrake effort didn’t show up on the last MoT, but that’s all sorted now. In amongst all this fiddling around, one piston on the o/s wheel cylinder decided to escape, necessitating taking the shoes off on that side too - the side I shouldn’t have needed to touch, adjusters aside! To top it all off, after that faff, I refitted that drum without putting the shoe retaining pins back. Cue 40 minutes of pain and hammering to get the drum off again. A long day, but brake pedal feel is much improved.
 

A full brake fluid exchange will occur as soon as I can work out how to get the sheared off o/s bleed nipple out of the calliper. Any great thoughts on this? I’m wondering about hammering a small torx bit into the hollow centre and using that to unscrew it, but a secondhand calliper may be the best bet. The car fought me the entire day but the brakes are far less scary now - so I can forgive it! 
 

 

9DD5E6D3-6381-44EA-993C-2F2D6EF04F01.jpeg

2D134115-D5CF-4C92-A766-73040A8DFA4C.jpeg

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23 minutes ago, louiepj said:

I reckoned that it would probably be a bit long delivery time. But I saw that there were some in the UK also on ebay but they are new and seem to be made of plastic so am skeptical of the quality and how well they fit but post pictures of one of these below.Image 1 - Thermostat + Gehäuse Für Opel Meriva [2003-2010]

Image 2 - Thermostat + Gehäuse Für Opel Meriva [2003-2010]

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that was a interesting visit to the petrol station ,

some drunk guy drove off with the nozzle still in the filler , it apparently hit a guy and 2 cars   , staff all out , people waving arms , phones out taking pictures ..

the guy drove off .......

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13 hours ago, C3C3 said:

20ft from work in the mk3 escort estate bASe this happened:

CuVoHWZ.jpeg

Well shit. Rear axel felt like it god damm fell straight off. Same thing happened on my Mk1 fiesta but with the front drivers side tie bar about 2 years ago. Had an ask around and can't seem to find any so looks like I'll have to fabracooble some together for both sides.

had the same happen to the wifes escort many years ago , the spacer bar in the flexi joint rusts and swells to jam the joint , in our case it left a short stub .

a piece of steel tubing and a sparkle stick fixed it up ..  and the flexi joint got cleaned up as well ...

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