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1 hour ago, Split_Pin said:

Unless it pishes out its coolant overnight or something, I'd call the Cav fixed.

I took it for a blast up and down the M876 as it was overheating only on long motorway inclines ad 70-75mph, as if the cooling system couldn't keep up. The temperature barely moved off the 90 degree mark the whole way. It was definitely the radiator. The big hole you see here:

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was actually the bottom flange where the fan mounts but it was so corroded it had snapped off. I ran some water through the old radiator just to see and it came out the bottom port pretty slowly so it was clearly corroded up inside.

MOT is less than a month so I'm glad overall this has been a very inexpensive fix.

 

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Glad to see it back on the road - an ace car that's had plenty good work done by yourself @Jim Bell@Jimbob McGregor

 

Woohoo

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Took the BX's rear wheeltrims off and then used my new timing light to see what the engine was runing at. The manual says 6-10 degrees BTDC. The engine was set at... -1. This means that before I had touched it weeks ago, it was probably 4 degrees ATDC which isn't good at all! Some dizzy twiddling later and it's around 6 or 7 degrees which is a lot better. Idle speed was increased so I adjusted that down as well. Unfortunately I couldn't test drive it, so that'll need to happen after I'm back from holiday.

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More Voleing today with some action on the brakes. I jacked the rear up, put it on stands and removed the wheels, hoping to get the calipers off for a good clean up. Unfortunately I couldn’t get the bolts out so I had to settle with removing the pads and giving those a bit of attention. The callipers appear to be reasonably new, the pistons slide in and out nicely and are very shiny, possibly stainless- either way I was pretty pleased as I was expecting them to both be seized and in need of a rebuild.

These have slightly weird double split circuit brakes witch are a total mare to bleed, especially from an empty system. I did my best to get the air out but totallY failed on the first attempt. I think it needs to be pressure bled, I did have a GUNSONS EASY BLEED but I think I binned it after a brake fluid explosion while attempting to bleed the brakes on a Morris Oxford years ago. It’s a job for another day I think. 

The handbrake works fine so all that was left was to tidy up the rust on the discs as best I could with a wire brush. 

The arches were both full of mud so I took the opportunity to give them a good clean out and hose down.

Before i refitted the wheels and removed the stands I test fitted a slot mag alloy to see how it would look. The tyres are slightly too small but the biggest issue is the wheel touches the backplate and caliper, I think a spacer should fix it but I’m not overly struck on them anyway so may stick with the existing steels, the tyres for these are expensive though. Apparently the previous owner of the slot mag wheels  had them on a Volvo 244 and they fitted fine by all accounts so they should go on one way or another.

The spare wheel wells are in Ok shape, considering they’re prime rot spots for any vehicle that’s remotely 240 related, the drivers side being the worse. The passenger side looking pretty nice. 
 

OBV with the back end in the air I fired it up, stuck it in gear and went for a “drive” It’s the first time I’ve seen the strip speedo in action and it looks amazing! 

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1 minute ago, GrumpiusMaximus said:

Thank you @Scruffy Bodger . Xsara is now delivered to the giffer!  No pez shot because I forgot.  The reason?

EB7624C5-BB18-4CE5-98CC-4DC41892BB13.thumb.jpeg.2a5984c413c8aa66b5108b03a152fec2.jpeg

Phwoar.

Took one at Warwick though.

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12/10 would shite again.

What a beautiful car! 

(biased but no one else will say it... You've got to own one to know 😉

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2 hours ago, vulgalour said:

Washing the car today and...

702438205_RottenArch1.thumb.jpg.1d07f7a04704d8bb48ff0e71d1a0d052.jpg

 

...it's okay, I fixed* it.

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Welding gas and grinder is arriving this week, so it's typical the arch fell off today.  Passenger side is making a bid for freedom too but still has just enough structure left to keep it on.

Nothing that a decent slab of wob won't solve.

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1 hour ago, Lankytim said:

These have slightly weird double split circuit brakes witch are a total mare to bleed, especially from an empty system.

Yes.  Yes they are.

I think I need to get myself a pressure bleeder.  The vacuum bleeder is OK (a lot better than an Eezibleed or a bit of pipe into a jar of brake fluid) but it does struggle with properly awkward systems.  Assume the 145 front calipers are 4-pot with two bleed nipples like the 164's?

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21 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

Yes.  Yes they are.

I think I need to get myself a pressure bleeder.  The vacuum bleeder is OK (a lot better than an Eezibleed or a bit of pipe into a jar of brake fluid) but it does struggle with properly awkward systems.  Assume the 145 front calipers are 4-pot with two bleed nipples like the 164's?

I watched some of Edd China's stuff on YouTube. And he was talking about using a pressurised vessel to back bleed awkward systems back into the reservoir as your pushing the air the way it wants to go. Apparently common on big vans etc. 

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12 hours ago, Spurious said:

I watched some of Edd China's stuff on YouTube. And he was talking about using a pressurised vessel to back bleed awkward systems back into the reservoir as your pushing the air the way it wants to go. Apparently common on big vans etc. 

i bleed my scooter brakes with a syringe.. i cant remember if it worked or not

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1 hour ago, wuvvum said:

Yes.  Yes they are.

I think I need to get myself a pressure bleeder.  The vacuum bleeder is OK (a lot better than an Eezibleed or a bit of pipe into a jar of brake fluid) but it does struggle with properly awkward systems.  Assume the 145 front calipers are 4-pot with two bleed nipples like the 164's?

I can't remember if they have 4 pots on the front but they do have two bleed nipples and two flexible pipes going to each caliper, I did a quick google and came up with a VOC forum thread where various owners were commenting on how the factory procedure doesn't work and the various ways people had tried. I don't think there's a hard and fast rule on how to do it.  Presumably if you apply pressure to the system you can fill it full of fluid and expel the air in one go but whenever I've tried this I've ended up with a fluid facial and non working brakes.

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3 hours ago, Lankytim said:

More Voleing today with some action on the brakes. I jacked the rear up, put it on stands and removed the wheels, hoping to get the calipers off for a good clean up. Unfortunately I couldn’t get the bolts out so I had to settle with removing the pads and giving those a bit of attention. The callipers appear to be reasonably new, the pistons slide in and out nicely and are very shiny, possibly stainless- either way I was pretty pleased as I was expecting them to both be seized and in need of a rebuild.

These have slightly weird double split circuit brakes witch are a total mare to bleed, especially from an empty system. I did my best to get the air out but totallY failed on the first attempt. I think it needs to be pressure bled, I did have a GUNSONS EASY BLEED but I think I binned it after a brake fluid explosion while attempting to bleed the brakes on a Morris Oxford years ago. It’s a job for another day I think. 

The handbrake works fine so all that was left was to tidy up the rust on the discs as best I could with a wire brush. 

The arches were both full of mud so I took the opportunity to give them a good clean out and hose down.

Before i refitted the wheels and removed the stands I test fitted a slot mag alloy to see how it would look. The tyres are slightly too small but the biggest issue is the wheel touches the backplate and caliper, I think a spacer should fix it but I’m not overly struck on them anyway so may stick with the existing steels, the tyres for these are expensive though. Apparently the previous owner of the slot mag wheels  had them on a Volvo 244 and they fitted fine by all accounts so they should go on one way or another.

The spare wheel wells are in Ok shape, considering they’re prime rot spots for any vehicle that’s remotely 240 related, the drivers side being the worse. The passenger side looking pretty nice. 
 

OBV with the back end in the air I fired it up, stuck it in gear and went for a “drive” It’s the first time I’ve seen the strip speedo in action and it looks amazing! 

DC492B1F-96E3-4D75-AFAD-8AAD03B0802A.jpeg

709D1DDE-598B-4B8E-AC40-9E48057DF534.jpeg

E87E2F23-A05C-484D-B39A-F45ECF2F8C01.jpeg

68BD7CFA-41C4-4FFE-99BF-F0B4FF8C15B7.jpeg

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What great looking car. Is the drivers side rear, rear window normally in two parts on these?

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Much use was made of the wheelbarrow today, to get stuff from the shed to the driveway:

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Starting to see some empty shelves:

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And the 20' container is starting to fill up with six loads taken there today, but still plenty of room for what we need to get in there:

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Now going through the many, many unboxed magazines, the best way I've found of moving them around is to make a stack about 9-12" high and tie it with string. Much easier with two people and Master SL soon got into the swing of it. The LS400 is now sitting rather low with a load in it ready to drop off tomorrow morning on the way to work.

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24 minutes ago, cort16 said:

What great looking car. Is the drivers side rear, rear window normally in two parts on these?

On the early cars yes, both the rear side windows were two piece with the rearmost opening, after 1971 ish they became one piece and remained the same all the way to the end of 240 production in 1993. 

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More family road tripping in the Trans Sport this weekend… an eventful getaway to Lancashire! 

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Motorway miles munched, Many hideous hours in traffic jams as well, I even slept in the back briefly, as but it coped superbly at every turn.

It’s an awesome thing… but I think the itch has been scratched now… 

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13 hours ago, Lankytim said:

These have slightly weird double split circuit brakes witch are a total mare to bleed, especially from an empty system. I did my best to get the air out but totallY failed on the first attempt. I think it needs to be pressure bled, I did have a GUNSONS EASY BLEED but I think I binned it after a brake fluid explosion while attempting to bleed the brakes on a Morris Oxford years ago. It’s a job for another day I think. 

I am really not looking forward to doing this particular job on my 240 as I've drained the system and I hear it's a major pain.  I was going to get an easi bleed but now I'm not so sure, after hearing about the impromptu showers people are getting from the fluid tank.

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