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Father Ted

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16 hours ago, Talbot said:

 

All now superceeded by the 13-pin euro plug, which is actually a lot better than 12N/12S.

I hate the 13 pin with a passion. Too many wires, too small pins, if you stick a 7 pin adaptor in they start playing up.

Never had a problem with the old type.

I'm a bit of a Luddite though, spent hours yesterday, marvelling  at my Saab floppy top working, and that's 20 years old.

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That's a first.  Came back from the shop to find the Shite Fairy had paid a visit and left a couple of things under the wiper of the Maestro.  I don't remember leaving a bowl of rust and 10mm sockets out to receive this reward.  Flasher relay is Princess compatible, not sure what the condensor is for.

IMAG5731.thumb.jpg.1c819c2ce922cc53a8110ae63a6d4be7.jpg

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Took Bonk the magic wagon out to a garden centre today.... 

4B60A71C-AFFB-4E02-AF27-FC67A6C92FB1.jpeg
 

I managed my first A-road overtake in a left hand drive car.... felt like a winner! 

Also figured out the under-reading Speedo. I think it’s been reconfigured so that 40 kmh is 20 mph, 60 is 30, 80 is 40 etc etc. This will save my phone battery! 

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My new Berlingo has seriously blotted it's copybook. It ran beautifully at the time I bought it, but it was booked in for a test on Thursday, after a full service with new front padsand a track rod end. A couple of days before I warmed the van up and noticed it smoking more than it had before. I put it on Diagbox and checked the injector corrections, which were all pretty much ok. Then I changed the MAF which was a pattern one, for a secondhand genuine sensor which I had, which cured the smoking. I warmed the engine up fully and it was ok. Unfortunately then the oil pressure light started coming on at idle. 

I hoped at first that the sensor was giving trouble, but then I noticed that when left to idle for a couple of minutes the tappets started to rattle, showing that not enough oil was getting through. These engines are notorious for blocking the sump strainer with sludge. So the next stage was to check that. When I got underneath I noticed a large dent in the sump, which I thought might be so close to the pickup pipe that it would cut off the oil supply. I got a new sump and whipped the old one off together with the pickup. On examination, the sump, although dented was completely unsludged, and the pickup gauze was completely free of blockage.So I put everything back hoping that the big dent in the sump was causing the problem, but on starting up the warning light was still on. I did think that the new oil filter might be faulty, so I got a new  one Purflux one, but that had no effect either. All I can presume is that the oil pump is faulty in some way.

So I decided to swap engines. I was able to buy back my old C5, which has done over 200k, but is still running beautifully, as it's had very regular oil changes throughout its life. Obviously the ancillary items on the engine will have to be swapped over, but the basic block and head are the same. I got the whole car for €100, and the engine had a quite recent timing belt and water pump, which is about the same price as an oil pump.

So I started stripping the van today. My drive now looks like it belongs to an itinerant scrapman.

IMG_20210403_181718.jpg

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2 hours ago, Jenson Velcro said:

 

It’s a lovely day to be swallowing dried mud

 

My thoughts exactly. Time to start making the popups a bit less manual now unicorn parts have been sourced and have arrived.  I have some helpers, I just hope the 10mm socket doesn’t go missing*...
56CDE8D9-CBA5-49CE-ACA6-5F3ECB42E16E.thumb.jpeg.878ec665f767ee924504b656368d0a37.jpeg

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22 hours ago, artdjones said:

My new Berlingo has seriously blotted it's copybook. It ran beautifully at the time I bought it, but it was booked in for a test on Thursday, after a full service with new front padsand a track rod end. A couple of days before I warmed the van up and noticed it smoking more than it had before. I put it on Diagbox and checked the injector corrections, which were all pretty much ok. Then I changed the MAF which was a pattern one, for a secondhand genuine sensor which I had, which cured the smoking. I warmed the engine up fully and it was ok. Unfortunately then the oil pressure light started coming on at idle. 

I hoped at first that the sensor was giving trouble, but then I noticed that when left to idle for a couple of minutes the tappets started to rattle, showing that not enough oil was getting through. These engines are notorious for blocking the sump strainer with sludge. So the next stage was to check that. When I got underneath I noticed a large dent in the sump, which I thought might be so close to the pickup pipe that it would cut off the oil supply. I got a new sump and whipped the old one off together with the pickup. On examination, the sump, although dented was completely unsludged, and the pickup gauze was completely free of blockage.So I put everything back hoping that the big dent in the sump was causing the problem, but on starting up the warning light was still on. I did think that the new oil filter might be faulty, so I got a new  one Purflux one, but that had no effect either. All I can presume is that the oil pump is faulty in some way.

So I decided to swap engines. I was able to buy back my old C5, which has done over 200k, but is still running beautifully, as it's had very regular oil changes throughout its life. Obviously the ancillary items on the engine will have to be swapped over, but the basic block and head are the same. I got the whole car for €100, and the engine had a quite recent timing belt and water pump, which is about the same price as an oil pump.

So I started stripping the van today. My drive now looks like it belongs to an itinerant scrapman.

IMG_20210403_181718.jpg

Did a bit more today. Removed the power steering pump and tied it back so as not to break into the system. Took the turbo off, disconnected the engine loom from the body, and drained the engine and gearbox oil. Finally took out the long driveshaft ,which took ages. The balljoint pinch bolt was fairly seized into the hub as was the balljoint pin. Then undid the two L shaped bolts that hold in the intermediate bearing to the rear engine mount, which was as awkward as usual. Then drifted it out.

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Took the Passat on its first long run in my keeping. 

It's definitely very good at motorwaying, effortless acceleration all the way past legal speeds, practically any-gear overtaking even with full family and extra tat abort.

On Saturday we spent a couple of hours going quite fast each way, prioritising time over efficiency and still returned around 50mpg.

Today, again with family and tat an hour and a half on lazy A roads and around 55mpg. Again effortless. 

Good work, Passat. 

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Had a go at starting this big metal slag today... 

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With the decompression lever open, it turns quite freely, and is a lot tighter with it shut which is positive. 

It doesn't appear to draw any fuel from the overhead tank, but that may e as the level in it is low. 

I can't see anywhere on it to set it to a starting position as mentioned in the manual, so I might have to clean it up some more tomorrow before I give it another go. 

 

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 Many years ago, my dad bought an Aveling Barford road folder for about fifty pounds to roll the village cricket pitch. It had a V twin diesel ŵith decompression levers on the tops of the cylinders. One bloke would crank it to buggery and another two would flip the levers. It always used to start. I was a teenager at the time, and used to drive it. The brake pedal was rusted solid, but if you just took it out of gear it would stop.

incidentally,  y iPad has gone mental and places the keyboard directly over the text I’m trying to write so I can’t see a thing. Anyone know what I’ve done wrong?

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I've got my keyboard back in the right place!

The road roller was from the 1920' s or 30’s and had a two letter number plate. To drive it, you'd squeeze a lever on the top of the gear lever and push it forwards to go forwards or back to go backwards. The throttle was a hand lever on the rhs of the drivers seat. I used to be in trouble for giving it full bollock and making it clag ! It didn't go any faster.

 

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Hmmm. I might* be able to sort out the clicking check-strap on the drivers door of the 407. Out of interest I was looking at it yesterday and noticed that one of the 10mm nuts were missing and other was very loose. I tightened up one with a handy 10mm spanner I keep in the car and the closing and opening the door was much quieter. I have some spare 10mm nuts so will try and fit one after work.

Edit*

Replacement wheel has just arrived:

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The tyre is better than one currently on it.

Sadly the badge is missing but I could probably grab one off the current wheel or something. Its not important and can wait. This means I can take the car for a wash too on my next day off.

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