The new news 24 thread

[Amishtat]

1 minute ago, Angrydicky said:

Yeah, white 68 reg. He's had this particular one at least a year. At least the last six months with a big bollard-shaped dent in the nearside front corner of the (plastic) bumper.

Speed dent.. 

[Jamie]

 

Done a terrible quick vid on the TT for those who are interested 👍

[rusty998]

Cacky front cataracts on the son's Clio was the order of the day as he's saved enough to insure it himself,  exhibit a 

Exhibit b

Masked up and ready for wet and dry paper,  600, 800 then 1200 got us to this stage, headlight on the right before the first pass with the hard pad on the Mop, 

We used this Meguiar's plastic polish as ive had it floating around the shed for year's, 

Passed both the headlights with the soft pad to get it a smooth as possible for the headlight coating that someone from this very parish recommend

I did the left-hand side to show the son what's what then made him do the right-hand side because that's how you learn in my book,

Before the final coating stage I masked up the surrounding  bodywork with paper so the over spray didn't go all over it, I completely forgot to take a picture of it all covered up unfortunately,  as it is cold outside I left the coating can in a bucket of hot water with a stone on the top so that it didn't float, dried and cleaned the headlights with soft paper then warmed them with my hot air gun before application,  a couple of coats passed over using the hot air gun inbetween to help it flash off and we have ended up with  a really nice result I think

Close up

I've done loads of plastic headlights in the past but never used to coating on them until now but I'm currently converted assuming it doesn't pickle up or go faded in a week or so that is,

I know Dollywobbler used some other type of polish for his headlights on the Daihatsu so you don't have to spend money on the Meguiars one but that coating is well worth the money in my opinion 

[Mr Laurence]

4 hours ago, Jamie said:

 

Done a terrible quick vid on the TT for those who are interested 👍

Nice video! I'd always assumed these show cars were cherished since they costs so much to build. Are most like this up close? The inside is great though! I wish more cars came with interesting interiors like that in colours other than black and grey.

[wuvvum]

5 hours ago, Cavcraft said:

New sticker arrived and was fitted within 5 minutes of getting home:

 

Now I need to get an "At least it's not a Peugeot" sticker made up for my van to restore equilibrium to the cosmos.

[Minimad5]

5 hours ago, Jamie said:

 

Done a terrible quick vid on the TT for those who are interested 👍

Don't powder coat the wheels, try take off the offending lacquer first, then buff the shit out of them & get your tame spray dude to throw some lacquer on.

[Craig the Princess]

5 hours ago, Jamie said:

 

Done a terrible quick vid on the TT for those who are interested 👍

That's really not me but it looks really good 👍

[Yoss]

3 hours ago, rusty998 said:

Cacky front cataracts on the son's Clio was the order of the day as he's saved enough to insure it himself,  exhibit a 

Exhibit b

Masked up and ready for wet and dry paper,  600, 800 then 1200 got us to this stage, headlight on the right before the first pass with the hard pad on the Mop, 

We used this Meguiar's plastic polish as ive had it floating around the shed for year's, 

Passed both the headlights with the soft pad to get it a smooth as possible for the headlight coating that someone from this very parish recommend

I did the left-hand side to show the son what's what then made him do the right-hand side because that's how you learn in my book,

Before the final coating stage I masked up the surrounding  bodywork with paper so the over spray didn't go all over it, I completely forgot to take a picture of it all covered up unfortunately,  as it is cold outside I left the coating can in a bucket of hot water with a stone on the top so that it didn't float, dried and cleaned the headlights with soft paper then warmed them with my hot air gun before application,  a couple of coats passed over using the hot air gun inbetween to help it flash off and we have ended up with  a really nice result I think

Close up

I've done loads of plastic headlights in the past but never used to coating on them until now but I'm currently converted assuming it doesn't pickle up or go faded in a week or so that is,

I know Dollywobbler used some other type of polish for his headlights on the Daihatsu so you don't have to spend money on the Meguiars one but that coating is well worth the money in my opinion 

They look better than new. That must have been a really satisfying job to do. 

[Jamie]

59 minutes ago, Minimad5 said:

Don't powder coat the wheels, try take off the offending lacquer first, then buff the shit out of them & get your tame spray dude to throw some lacquer on.

They've gone pitted where the white worm is and think it would take ages to get that finish again. They are gettin done chrome so it'll look simmlar anyway 👍

[Jamie]

14 minutes ago, Craig the Princess said:

That's really not me but it looks really good 👍

Cheers man 👌

[Jamie]

1 hour ago, Mr Laurence said:

Nice video! I'd always assumed these show cars were cherished since they costs so much to build. Are most like this up close? The inside is great though! I wish more cars came with interesting interiors like that in colours other than black and grey.

Thanks mate. It's still a bit shit as I'm editing on my phone 

 

You'd think so wouldn't you? Sadly it's been through 9 owners since it was once loved. The state of the rear shocks literally shocked me, no pun intended.. It had an mot 3 weeks ago 

I do love the interior though and I'm looking forward to giving it a good clean! 

 

I've spend the evening machine polishing it it has come up quite well 

[Zelandeth]

Yesterday I set about fixing a couple of minor bits and pieces behind the scenes on my website.

This rapidly turned into one of those situations where you pull on one thread and end up unravelling the whole tapestry. 

The whole mess dates back in some places to 1999, though there was a major overhaul in 2002.  Since then it's been held together by more bodgery than an end of life Mini in the early 80s.

For a start I've found at least half a dozen orphaned pages which weren't actually linked to any more, I've lost count of how many were missing the Statcounter code... that's obviously dropped off the template at some point...and let's not even get started on circular links or things opening in the wrong target frame.  It's an absolute bloody mess.

Will be going through it page by page over the next few days to sort most of those most glaringly obvious issues out...

Doing one subsection took me the whole afternoon today... I'm going to be seeing HTML in my sleep at this rate.

[HMC]

The lada continues to sit unloved. I can’t find the bonnet release, although the grille on the bonnet has been prised a bit like someone has had to release it directly via the latch. When things calm down (hopefully not too far ahead) I’ll bang it into my local chod friendly garage and get it recommissioned. 
 

 

In my imagination, there’s a shitefest happening in the future and I’m driving it there......

[wuvvum]

The Rover 75 is playing silly buggers.  I went to it this afternoon and the battery was as dead as a doornail - no electricity at all, which was odd as I only moved it a couple of days ago and it started fine then.  Jumped it off the Iveco and it fired up fine, but I then found that the electric windows weren't working.   A bit of playing around ascertained that the three passenger windows are working fine from the switches on their respective doors, but the driver's door switch module isn't doing anything to either windows or mirrors.  There's power to the switch module as the LED for the mirror adjusters is on, and it flicks across when I select the other mirror, but the mirrors don't move.  Similarly with the rear window lockout - when I press the button the LED comes on, but the rear door switches still operate the windows.

Anyway, I left it running for a while to charge the battery up, then switched off but left it unlocked.  Went back to it a few minutes later to get the jump leads out of the boot and it'd locked itself.  It unlocked fine on the remote and I opened the boot, but it then proceeded to lock itself again a few seconds later.  It doesn't seem to do it with the engine running, only when the key's out of the ignition.

I don't know whether it's one of those weird "75s don't like the cold" symptoms that will disappear once it warms up a bit or whether something has actually gone wrong with the car, but it's a bit of a strange one either way.

[artdjones]

1 hour ago, Jamie said:

Thanks mate. It's still a bit shit as I'm editing on my phone 

 

You'd think so wouldn't you? Sadly it's been through 9 owners since it was once loved. The state of the rear shocks literally shocked me, no pun intended.. It had an mot 3 weeks ago 

I do love the interior though and I'm looking forward to giving it a good clean! 

 

I've spend the evening machine polishing it it has come up quite well 

That's not a fail on the shock as it won't affect function and no-one can cut themselves on it.

[Jamie]

5 minutes ago, artdjones said:

That's not a fail on the shock as it won't affect function and no-one can cut themselves on it.

My mot man disagrees,  the shock is providing limited or no  damping effect, seeing as there is nothing there to absorb any shock?! 

[New POD]

8 hours ago, Jamie said:

 

Done a terrible quick vid on the TT for those who are interested 👍

Interesting.  You are brave. 

[Jamie]

2 minutes ago, New POD said:

Interesting.  You are brave. 

Brave or stupid? You decide 😁

[tommotech]

Had a FML moment earlier today and a bit of a wobble. Let me set the scene then you can sympathise / take the piss / be brutal. 
Against my better judgment I agreed to look at an unloved Hyundai Sonata, 2002 with a 16v 2.0 Auto, belonging to a friend of my Dad. Back in the summer it needed brakes all round, welding to rear of LH sill and coil packs. Parts cost and some beer tokens made it a close call for a trip to the bridge, however the owner found someone else to do the MOT work and a ticket was issued. In November the engine started to cut out after 20 or so miles, but would restart when my Dad, or recovery services arrived. I looked at the codes and found misfire and crank position sensor issues, crank sensor codes returned on test. 
Wiring was good and secure so a new sensor was suggested, not a particularly nice job as it’s buried next to the crank nose in the timing belt cover. A new belt kit was suggested as a must along with a genuine sensor, now here’s the crux. I don’t like cheap / spurious sensors of any kind, I’ve always had problems and avoid them at all costs.  
An enquiry to a local Hyundai parts dept was made, only to be told there isn’t any sensors in UK and it would be an eight week wait for a genuine Hyundai part. Local motor factor had a Blue Print part available at a third of the Hyundai part price. Not my preferred option but I went with it. 
Stripped the belts off and sensor, to find water damage from a leaking water pump, this was also replaced, got everything built back up this afternoon and the engine failed to restart, not even any sign of sparking to life. Crank sensor error code is found and returns after a cranking phase. This was my FML moment, I’d fitted a spurious component (albeit available) against my principles, the part was ‘dead-on-arrival’ and I’ve got to strip everything back to replace it, again.

Sorry for a long (rantish) post, but I do feel better for off loading.

 

[Agila]

5 minutes ago, Jamie said:

My mot man disagrees,  the shock is providing limited or no  damping effect, seeing as there is nothing there to absorb any shock?! 

If that's the passenger rear they have acknowledged it on the mot as "has limited damping effect".

I'd say that's an understatement. Looks like the seller had a mate who tested it? Smart move letting your own mot man see it for reassurance.

I'd take your own mot guys advice and see where you go from here. Should have been replaced in my opinion.

Good luck with it, I'm sure you'll get it ship shape in no time. Hope it's not taken the shine off the purchase.

 

[Jamie]

6 minutes ago, Agila said:

If that's the passenger rear they have acknowledged it on the mot as "has limited damping effect".

I'd say that's an understatement. Looks like the seller had a mate who tested it? Smart move letting your own mot man see it for reassurance.

I'd take your own mot guys advice and see where you go from here. Should have been replaced in my opinion.

Good luck with it, I'm sure you'll get it ship shape in no time. Hope it's not taken the shine off the purchase.

 

Absolutely couldn't agree more! I've ordered a pair of shocks and it certainly hasn't taken the shine off, I Knew it needed work so I am happy to spend on it (a bit) 

 

How you getting on with the SLK? 

[Agila]

On 1/9/2021 at 9:12 PM, Jamie said:

How you getting on with the SLK? 

Perfect. It's got Grace's plates on it now. Will be getting the wheels done when I get a chance. Best grand I've ever spent that's for sure. Will come into it's own in the summer.

Civic went through mot fine and on a different plate   

[rusty998]

2 hours ago, Yoss said:

They look better than new. That must have been a really satisfying job to do. 

Son's really happy with the results which is all that matters but very nice outcome indeed 

[stuboy]

Previous owner removed the 12v  socket and so I need to plug few incar electrical in, so I've bought this, but worried it'll blow the fuse and the USB is saying 5v and sometimes I need to use my tyre compressor.... 

[wuvvum]

Made some progress on the diesel C2 today - the old alternator is now off.  I ended up unbolting the aircon compressor (first time I've used the ratchet spanners I bought in the ECP sale last year) to get access to the bottom rear bolt - there was no way in heck I would have got to it otherwise, but with the compressor out of the way I could get to the bolt from underneath.  As soon as I started to undo the bolt the alternator flopped down under its own weight, but because I am an idiot it took me about 5 minutes to realise that this meant I could now access the bolt from above, so I spent 5 more minutes lying on the freezing ground reaching up, poking the 16mm spanner into the tiny gap between the bolt head and the engine, and undoing it about 1/12 of a turn at a time.  Obviously once I finally came out of brain fart mode and attacked the bolt from the top it came out a lot more quickly.  It turned out I would have had to remove the aircon compressor in any event as the alternator wouldn't have fitted through the gap with it in place. 

Next job was to bring the belt tensioner assembly indoors, clamp it in the work bench and lock it into "untensioned" position using an M4 bolt - a lot easier to do this on the bench than faff about with it on the car trying to poke the bolt into a tiny invisible hole between the tensioner and the inner wing.  Tomorrow, weather and mojo allowing, I'm going to try and get it all back together again - at least I don't have to worry about overtight bolts on reassembly, although I do have the fun of getting everything lined up.

The tow ball I ordered for the Iveco turned up today, so I fitted that, and also sorted a more permanent reversing light setup.

It's quite bright.

The wiring needs tidying up at some point (and I really should bolt the trailer plug on properly as well) but that's not urgent.  The COB LED strip that had been pressed into use as a temporary reversing light has been rescued and will be used to supplement the rather feeble standard load area lighting - I'm saving that job for a rainy day when I can't do anything outside.

The Skoda is still getting wet inside - I need to try and work out where the water is getting in, the carpet in the driver's footwell was a bit soggy today.  I had the car running for an hour or so with the heater on full blast and a 240v fan heater in the footwell too - that's dried things out a bit but it needs another session.  I tried running the dehumidifier for a couple of hours too, but that didn't seem to be doing much - might be too cold for it to work.

[Jim Bell]

2 hours ago, tommotech said:

Had a FML moment earlier today and a bit of a wobble. Let me set the scene then you can sympathise / take the piss / be brutal. 
Against my better judgment I agreed to look at an unloved Hyundai Sonata, 2002 with a 16v 2.0 Auto, belonging to a friend of my Dad. Back in the summer it needed brakes all round, welding to rear of LH sill and coil packs. Parts cost and some beer tokens made it a close call for a trip to the bridge, however the owner found someone else to do the MOT work and a ticket was issued. In November the engine started to cut out after 20 or so miles, but would restart when my Dad, or recovery services arrived. I looked at the codes and found misfire and crank position sensor issues, crank sensor codes returned on test. 
Wiring was good and secure so a new sensor was suggested, not a particularly nice job as it’s buried next to the crank nose in the timing belt cover. A new belt kit was suggested as a must along with a genuine sensor, now here’s the crux. I don’t like cheap / spurious sensors of any kind, I’ve always had problems and avoid them at all costs.  
An enquiry to a local Hyundai parts dept was made, only to be told there isn’t any sensors in UK and it would be an eight week wait for a genuine Hyundai part. Local motor factor had a Blue Print part available at a third of the Hyundai part price. Not my preferred option but I went with it. 
Stripped the belts off and sensor, to find water damage from a leaking water pump, this was also replaced, got everything built back up this afternoon and the engine failed to restart, not even any sign of sparking to life. Crank sensor error code is found and returns after a cranking phase. This was my FML moment, I’d fitted a spurious component (albeit available) against my principles, the part was ‘dead-on-arrival’ and I’ve got to strip everything back to replace it, again.

Sorry for a long (rantish) post, but I do feel better for off loading.

 

That sucks man. 

Hopefully the genuine part will get the hopeless modern toilet purring again. 

[Floatylight]

27 minutes ago, stuboy said:

Previous owner removed the 12v  socket and so I need to plug few incar electrical in, so I've bought this, but worried it'll blow the fuse and the USB is saying 5v and sometimes I need to use my tyre compressor.... 

Mmm, don't think there is any chance of running anything like a tyre compressor off that...

[Supernaut]

On 07/01/2021 at 21:38, dome said:

@Supernaut get your wallet out

@brownnova my finders fees are reasonable for all sales resulting from this post😉

I fear that I'll realise this so-called spares car is in better nick than mine and just shove my engine into that body shell.

My latest issue is my exterior door handle on the driver's door only seems to actually unlatch the door about 1 time out of every 10. I opened up the door card the other day and it seems to be activating the latch fine, I just think things need adjusted. In the process though, the boot release button escaped and spat its little internal spring somewhere so now I need to fix that too.

In summary:

 

I love it really. The door handle situation is getting tiring though.

[Split_Pin]

13 hours ago, wuvvum said:

The Rover 75 is playing silly buggers.  I went to it this afternoon and the battery was as dead as a doornail - no electricity at all, which was odd as I only moved it a couple of days ago and it started fine then.  Jumped it off the Iveco and it fired up fine, but I then found that the electric windows weren't working.   A bit of playing around ascertained that the three passenger windows are working fine from the switches on their respective doors, but the driver's door switch module isn't doing anything to either windows or mirrors.  There's power to the switch module as the LED for the mirror adjusters is on, and it flicks across when I select the other mirror, but the mirrors don't move.  Similarly with the rear window lockout - when I press the button the LED comes on, but the rear door switches still operate the windows.

Anyway, I left it running for a while to charge the battery up, then switched off but left it unlocked.  Went back to it a few minutes later to get the jump leads out of the boot and it'd locked itself.  It unlocked fine on the remote and I opened the boot, but it then proceeded to lock itself again a few seconds later.  It doesn't seem to do it with the engine running, only when the key's out of the ignition.

I don't know whether it's one of those weird "75s don't like the cold" symptoms that will disappear once it warms up a bit or whether something has actually gone wrong with the car, but it's a bit of a strange one either way.

Driver's window switch is a common issue for 75s. Taking it apart and cleaning it can help, otherwise a 2nd hand replacement is an option. The E/W control in mine is on its last legs, you have to press it hard to get it to move.

No idea about the rest, possible that the battery is goosed?

[Cord Fourteener]

Boys latest AS garage plan