bigfella2 Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 What are the plugs like? oily, sooty, clean? Might indicate what's wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 26, 2017 Author Share Posted December 26, 2017 Oily when warm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayMK Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 Just throwing these in because easy to check: In my experience, valve stem seal leakage has to be quite severe to mess up the actual running of the engine i.e. bad enough to show up as oil usage on the dipstick after, say, 500 miles. Slight Trabant exhaust characteristics at start-up are not usually anything to get too excited about as long as it looks ok in normal running. If the plugs are getting a bit oily then hotter grade plugs can ease that problem for a while. It is also worth checking that the rocker box breather is ok. If it has pipework, ensure that it is in good shape (not cracked or kinked) and connected as Volvo/DAF intended (usually feeds in to the air cleaner or sometimes in to the inlet manifold). Some breather pipes contain a choke (orifice) which gets bunged up. This can affect idling and throttle response if the pipework forms an essential part of the carb mixture control. A blocked breather orifice or a leaking pipe can stop the car from idling. I think someone mentioned checking the carb choke lever to ensure that it is operating correctly, particularly when the engine has warmed up. Having residual choke when none is required can make an engine feel hesitant and reluctant to idle. You are approaching these relatively minor problems in the right way. Avoid the temptation to fiddle with lots of bits in one go. Just check one item at a time (or set e.g. plugs or leads), fix, clean, adjust or replace if found wanting, then test to see if the problem is cured, unaffected or worse. Remind me to adopt this policy next time I have the bonnet open. It's all to easy to tamper with ignition, carb, and plumbing whilst you have the spanners out, only to discover that you've somehow made things worse.....but which bit of attention caused it? bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 Owning reliant myself I know don't mess with to much. I'm methodically going through what I know is wrong first. Car runs fine when cold or hot through rev range so that bought me away from the carb for now. Mind you the gunson colour tune I had for my Robin was brilliant can't find it now though! It smells oily when warm starting and it puffs a bit of blue for 10 seconds. It doesn't use a massive amount on the dipstick though but it's an issue that needs rectifying so gets done first. When I can afford to though I'm going to give it a damn good service. Rotor arm and cap,leads etc. Pipework seems fine but I have a slightly worn one from the emv vac line to the carb. Seems to pull off a little too easy. That also will be changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 Exhaust plan in place. New one to be ordered in due course. For the time being though a scrap centre section will replace the centre box and effectively sleeve the front pipe and rear. Also replacing a knackered fuel line and vacuum hose. chaseracer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 The economical repairs work. Sadly the front pipe is worse than we thought and hasn't taken a liking to being played with. Oh and the air filter to carb bolts won't tighten. Further investigation revealed stripped threads and previous helicoils that haven't been inserted properly. My friendly man in the know is going to look into that. Awaiting a breaker in the high peak getting back to me about his breaker 340. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 With any luck those badly done helicoils can be wound out & new ones put in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 I didn't realise they was there till they came out with the bar! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Excellent! That should mean the thread in the body is fine so a new one will just wind in. I tend to use a smear of bearing fit on them when I put them in & leave it to dry before building the part up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 The body on carb is knackered mate. The threads on the bar looks fine. They_all_do_that_sir 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Ahh well, I was guessing & being hopeful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HH-R Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 These are for winners. Hope things are on the up for you,Bub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 Thanks. I'm working on its issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 Ahh well, I was guessing & being hopeful.I'm always hopefull! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 Does anyone have a set of plug leads adorning their garage wall I may have for beer tokens? Developed a really rough tick over and a plug lead gave me a right wallop last night. Sadly I can't afford a new set at 30 quid so I'm being kind of hopeful I may get some cheaper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelandeth Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 What type of ends are on them and what lengths are they? I've got a couple of random sets floating around (no idea what off originally) which have been sitting around as serviceable spares. If they're suitable I'd happily send them your way for cost of postage only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Can't you just buy a single one from a car accessories shop just to get you going again, instead of splashing out on a full set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 They are all a bit buggered to be fair. I am unsure of length but. Measure them the ends are just rubber boots with metal inside push fit over dizzy cap and plugs. The rotor cap is right in between plugs 2 and 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelandeth Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 To be honest if you drop me a PM I can have a dig about in the garage at the weekend and shuffle a few assorted leads your way. They'll only wind up getting binned here during a tidy up at some point otherwise. Sounds like yours will be pretty short so they'll probably be longer than strictly necessary, but should do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 Mine are currently cable tied at strategic Points! chaseracer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 They are quite long but don't need to be. The issue is that it runs lumpy at idle and it came on quickly. Also it revs freely at standstill but under load it feels as if it's holding back. More so if I give it kickdown while driving. I've adjusted mixture one with and the other and back to where it was originally and made no difference. Also raising tickover just make no difference until it's higher up the revs. Also does smell of unburnt fuel. All pointing to dying leads. Especially considering it didn't half twat me one last night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelandeth Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Yeah, if they're degraded to the point that you can get a belt off them, they're definitely past their best. You may well find that if you open the bonnet with the engine running in the dark that you can actually see evidence of arcing from the leads to adjacent metalwork etc - the electricity your plugs need literally "leaking away." Leads I've got here were all working just fine when removed, they were just replaced on age grounds generally. The set that came from the Lada are actually pretty new, but were rendered redundant when I put the injection kit on because the coil pack on that has different connectors on to the distributor cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 I can't see any evidence of sparking at night time but I can hear a clicking/ticking from near the area. The leads are all bundled together anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Help and advice please. I've fitted new leads and nothing changed. Still hunts at idle and cuts out at every junction or set of lights. I've tried adjust mixture one way then the other and no joy. Tried pulling choke out and no joy. Even turned tick over up and it's still there. Also if I go to kickdown then lift off from high revs and go back to high revs you can physically feel it pulling back and losing power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabergé Greggs Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 A scoosh of carb cleaner won’t hurt- could easily be dirty jets or whatnot. Taking them out and cleaning them would be even better. When running, scoosh wd40 all over the place to see if you can detect a change in engine note- if so there’s an air leak. Check all gaskets, bolts etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overrun Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Mac over on V3M is your man for this. BorniteIdentity 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Mac sounds like an oracle. And I been advised to talk to him. That's the plan when I get to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 The Renault 1.7 unit used to be probe to warpibg the face that the carb sits on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overrun Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Mac sounds like an oracle. And I been advised to talk to him. That's the plan when I get to it Ah, cool. Yeah, he is the man for all things B17 and the like. As sierraman says, it probably has a warped carb base. Braddon81 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Almost certainly, spray some WD round the base, it was a design fault when they were new so not sure what you'll sort it with now short of using RTV to create some sort of gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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