bub2006 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Yesterday evening the volvo was tinkered with some more by my friendly mechanic. Ive got it in my head that i want it tip top,my friend whobis a mobile mechanic also loves working on older cars too. We was having a chat about how it was driving after the belts were done and i said i wanted the clutch checked too. Up on the ramps it went. I read the haynes manual and also the volvo oc data and found the gap between the clutch lining and pressure pllate should be ideally between 0.4mm and 1.0mm. Mine was 1.2mm so if a shim was removedfrom each of the adjustment points it would bring it to 0.7mm. Now drives even better. Doesnt seem as if the clutch is slipping in a manual car either to pull off. Never drive one before and cant remember what my grandads sounded like so it was worth the checks. Looks like low hold has failed again though so multimeter is coming out and the tachometric relay is being checked. It gives me a little feeling of joy having a car i can actually do little bits to to make right. Takes my mind off other tgings too. By time the volvo is perfect i may have to start looking for a little old project as this seems to be a very good way of therapy Coprolalia, egg, Ghosty and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacquer Peel Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 I'm glad you're doing some preventative maintenance and making it reliable. It's been my downfall in the past and present (Inca cambelt roulette) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 And mine too! This though is so cheap for bits and bobs and my friend has a tab running im sure! HarmonicCheeseburger and Lacquer Peel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaseracer Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 I had a go earlier today - it's a lovely little thing. ATCNBE!! egg, beko1987, M'coli and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Get out. chaseracer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 With chase racers help ive found the tachometric relay has some dry solder joints. Easy job to do. Sadly i cant remember where my soldering irons are! Just a quick one for anyone who has driven these,do they all sqyeak when pulling away? Definitely is the bekts and its done it since ive had it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Only squawk first thing in the morning for 20 yards with Roulunds belts. Volvo ones don't unless they're old/slack/shagged. This though is so cheap for bits and bobsYou'll eating those words in due course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaseracer Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 The belts didn't sound at all happy when you drove away earlier. ASMM spannering sesh in the new year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 The belts surprisingly are fine and within tension with no cracks or damage. They was slightly worse before they were tensioned. Mine dont squeal, they did first thing or on hill starts but dont anymore. Its more of a rubbing noise which as far as i know is normal?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Eddie,what aint so cheap? I know the belts are 160 quid a pair but i can stomach that for how long they last. Inly like payinh for a cambelt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 I've only ever owned slightly dodge Daf's really, rubbing noise present on most of them, never thought any more about it tbh. RayMK 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayMK Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 I've only ever owned slightly dodge Daf's really, rubbing noise present on most of them, never thought any more about it tbh. The two Volvo 66s that I had in the 1980s/90s made a characteristic suppressed howling noise, as have most of the belt driven DAFs and Volvos that I've been close enough to hear. The 66s had a cooling duct which ran from the front of the car to the transmission to keep the pulleys cool. In order to convey the power* the expanding/contracting V pulleys put a considerable side load on to the belts. The consequental friction releases a lot of heat and causes a fair bit of noise. If all of the components look ok and are set up properly then I agree it's nothing to worry about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Everything is fine even down to the air ducts on the front bumper that only autos gave for cooling being clear! RayMK 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghosty Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Oh is that what they were for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 Yep,manuals have covering plates. Now ypu can spot a cvt or manual from the front! chaseracer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Now you can spot a cvt/scene tart or manual from the front! FTFY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 What is with the holse drilled in the bumper on some scene cars?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaseracer Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 To let the shit drain out... BorniteIdentity 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Weight saver innit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 Right the carb issue has come back again tonight. Help! How can i keep the carb a bit cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Heat shield/heat sink somehow?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Hose from grille to carb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 It needs something. Love the car though and its little eccentricities chaseracer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Right the carb issue has come back again tonight. Help! How can i keep the carb a bit cooler? Drill a hole in the bumper.Don't know if it would be viable, but some carbed cars had a return fuel line which I've always assumed was to circulate some fuel back to the tank taking some heat with it. If you're having vaporisation problems at this brass monkeys bollocks time of year I reckon come summer you could fit your float chamber with a whistle off a kettle. What about a computer fan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 From a technical mind he said its the cold fuel causing droplets in the float chamber and warm bay with warm air is causinh it. Something about thermodynamics. Ive really watered it down though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayMK Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Fuel vaporisation and vapour-lock problems are quite common in older cars equipped with carburettors. Ethanol loaded fuel does not help as it gases off more readily than 'straight' petrol. Assuming that your fuel feed is ok i.e. pump pumping, filter not blocked, carb internals clean and fuel cap vent hole clear, there are various things you can try and some may make the car more drivable e.g. Make sure the ignition timing is spot-on (if it's 'out' the engine may be running hotter); If the carb sits on a thermal insulation spacer, make sure the spacer is clean, not oil soaked; See if any additional shielding could be used to prevent the carb receiving too much radiated heat from nearby hot components; Ensure engine bay ventilation is as designed i.e. not impeded by sagging sound insulation, leaves or whatever; Consider wrapping the exhaust manififold and downpipe with a proprietary insulation binding/tape to reduce engine bay temperature. If your fuel pump is in the engine bay rather than in or near the tank, the pump will be drawing fuel by suction. This exacerbates fuel vaporisation problems in a warm engine bay. An electric pump near the tank which pushes fuel to the engine usually overcomes that problem. If you go that route, make sure the pump pressure is suitable for a carb i.e. around 3-5psi. Good luck! My 1961 Reliant Regal is prone to vapour locking and I've tried everything except exhaust wrapping and have yet to fit the electric pump I bought 6 years ago. Fortunately, it's not my daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 Its got the mechanical pump still. Now my robin had a pump fitted to the rear chassis with a cut off switch in the car. I dont recall any issues like this with that either now you mention it. I will get the timing checked and i plan to clean the carb too when weather is better. Ill save up for a fuel pump i think and go from there. I have replaced the inline fuel filter too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 26, 2017 Author Share Posted December 26, 2017 Well tonight went well. Exhaust come away from centre silencer. Sounds like a tank. Also I may have found why she runs a bit lumpy when warm. Valve stem seals are leaking. When warm starting it puffs blue smoke which clears up. I'm wondering if this is affecting the running if plugs are getting choked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 I thought when valve stem seals were going when you got smoke on start-up when cold or left for a while, because oil has passed the seals and got into combustion chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted December 26, 2017 Author Share Posted December 26, 2017 Happen when hot too Im led to believe. Warm engine turned off for around half hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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