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🚨L1's euro♦️ shenanigans 🍷🚨


loserone

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Stashed this out of the way this week.

Renewal came through for the W211, which is funny* because I've just roffled it.  £684 for the year.

Meanwhile I've insured the S124 on the same terms for £290, and could get the 182 on the same terms again (business use for both drivers, 4k a year, parked in the street, Mrs L1's roundabout incident not quite 5 years ago) for another £306.  I.e. it's cheaper to insure the S124 and the clio than it is the W211.  MENTAL.

Could also put the clio on a classic policy for £250 it seems, but then I can't use it for business use.

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FFfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff

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With the w211 out of the way, I am using the s124 for the school run.

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Today my new* stereo arrived, so I looked at the s124 this lunchtime.  

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The speaker wires seem to be pretty decent, and there's new pioneer speakers in all the slots.

However, the ISO connection leaves something to be desired.

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Whats the best / cheapest/ simplest solution to this? I guess I want an iso harness with some bullet connectors for the speakers and then figure out which of these two* wires are ground, live, ign and auto aerial?

@philibusmo is this making you sweat, or a normal day at the office?

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33 minutes ago, loserone said:

Whats the best / cheapest/ simplest solution to this? I guess I want an iso harness with some bullet connectors for the speakers and then figure out which of these two* wires are ground, live, ign and auto aerial?

@philibusmo is this making you sweat, or a normal day at the office?

You're pretty much right there. The easiest and cheapest way to get this sorted is to add a couple of ISO connectors, either with bullet/crimp connectors or soldering it into the original wiring. Makes it nice and easy to remove the radio if you sell the car and fit whatever crap is for sale in the middle aisle of Lidl that week.

As for tracing the wiring, without a speaker tester then its quite difficult to work out which set of wiring will go to which speaker to connect to the correct outputs of the radio. If its easy to get the speakers out then you can disconnect the wires from the speakers and test the continuity to them down the different speaker wires. If you're luck then someone will have used the standard wiring colours, complete colour is positive and black stripe is negative:

White = left front
Grey = right front
Green = left rear
Purple = right rear

As for the power side, finding the permanent 12v and switched 12v should be easy with a multimeter. The earth equally should have continuity to any body earth and not output 12v.  You may also have an illumination wire which will only output 12v with the lights on and that should leave the electric aerial output. If you have doubts on this one then just try touching the permanent 12v to it and listed for the aerial motor going.

A word of warning on the electric aerial, the 12v output on the radio will work whenever the radio is on (even if not using FM)  as it is also used to turn on an amplifier if fitted, which will mean the aerial will be up whenever the set is on. Some Chinese sets (and newer Blaupunkt radios have Chinese internals) don't stop outputting 12v until the ignition is off. 

If you want to only have the aerial up while the radio is set to FM then you'll need to put another inline switch into this to be able to manually get it to extend or retract.

Wiring colours for power ISO:

Black = earth
Yellow = permanent 12v
Red = ign 12v
Orange = Illumination
Blue = 12v output

I've got ISO cables with bare ends that I use to make cables, if you want a pair then I can send them out for £7 but they are quite widely available and cheap so you may well find some locally at the same sort of money.

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Many, many thanks to @doug for the manuals.  What a hero!

 

Just had a quick test of the sunroof in the quiet, the motor is running but presumably the cable isn't connected.  Who puts an electric sunroof motor in the boot?!

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  • loserone changed the title to 🚨L1's euro♦️ shenanigans 🍷🚨

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