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Squire_Dawson

320touring's major Morris manoeuvrings

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This reminds me, when the brake light switch failed on my t25 camper many hundreds of miles away from civilisation, I taped two razor blades together at one end, insulated from each other with tape. I slipped a plastic hair clip through them to prise them apart slightly, and wired the brake light circuit to each blade, then strapped the whole thing to the pedal. When you pressed the pedal, you forced the blades together, resplendent with sparks because lack of relay and extra load due to a bike rack with extra lights.

 

I’ve never been so reluctant to brake in my life, thanks to a combo of razor blades, sparks and sandals. Lolsss

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Might be worth looking at a microswitch that's designed to be open to complete the circuit.....

 

Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

Any microswitch with three terminals has an NO and NC contact plus common. Wire it either way using common plus one of the others.

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Re: the brake light switch.  My first Imp had a similar problem where it wasn't actually coming on, so I fitted a Maplins microswitch up at the pedal end, rather than disturb the hydraulics.  My latest Imp had this too, but I just changed the hydraulic switch.  No problems.

 

Just stop overcomplicating the matter - change the switch, and if you're worried about it failing in due course, carry a spare, and change it again if it fails.

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Just stop overcomplicating the matter - change the switch, and if you're worried about it failing in due course, carry a spare, and change it again if it fails.

I'm not sure it's Mr Touring that's overcomplicating things or worrying about the switch failing - I think that's been more of a team effort.

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Invacar has a hydraulic switch, so I'm watching with interest. It does actually seem to operate the brake lights, but now I'm wondering about what type of fluid to use. I've got a small amount of DOT 4 (which probably needs binning) and some 5.1. Was considering fancy pants stuff, but perhaps that's a bad idea.

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To add another data point in, the previous owner replaced the hydraulic actuated brake switch on the MGB and it still works. About the only thing that hasn't broken (yet).

 

Being that they're based on the same design and technology as an oil pressure switch, there really isn't any reason why they should fail. Get one from a large, reputable supplier and I'm sure it will be fine for the most part.

 

After a lot of reading, I personally kept with DOT4 rather than changing to anything else. Cheap, works and mixing DOT5 in can cause a whole load of issues. I believe DOT5.1 has less issues with mixing. Saying that, a dribble of DOT4 on the wing took the top layer of paint off. :sad-smiley-005:

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1. A new brake light switch won't work for long. They are simply not designed to work with todays silicone brake fluids.

Absolute horse-shit.

 

The only thing silicone is DOT 5.0

 

The rest are polyglycol (e.g DOT 3, 4, 5.1), except of course mineral stuff in Citroens and the like.

 

 

A new brake light won't last long because like condensers they are simply not made properly. The fluid isn't to blame, the greedy cunts commissioning/making the piss-poor replacement parts are. If they weren't such penny-pinching wanks, we'd get proper parts. On top of that, everybody* wants things for nothing these days so are in a way asking to be dry-bummed twice over. If the buyer voted with their wallets then companies like ShitPart wouldn't last 2 minutes peddling there shonky shit.

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I don't think you can blame the companies. Blame the buyers. Having spoken with several parts suppliers, it's always the same that buyers demand quality over price. Until they have to pay, and then cost is the over-riding factor, so it becomes a race to the bottom. A company that only sells high-cost, high-quality parts will soon find itself out of business. An annoying aspect of the modern world.

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I think the "Goddamn glabalisation and crapatalists" thread is in the open forum ;)

 

2 switches have been ordered (one hydraulic, the other spring activated)

 

With luck, one will function to allow me to brake without erroneously pulling the starter button instead of the drugged up brake light pull switch:)

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I don't think you can blame the companies. Blame the buyers. Having spoken with several parts suppliers,

Well, they would say that. Wouldn't they? :P

 

Besides I did also say: "On top of that, everybody* wants things for nothing these days so are in a way asking to be dry-bummed twice over."

 

It takes two to tango. ;)

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But then some parts have got so cheap that when quality* replacements appear that are a lot more expensive, they do well. E.g. Distributor Doctor red rotor arms and yellow leaded condensers. Interestingly some parts haven't gone too bad quality and seem to be produced by a big supplier too - e.g. SU carb bits. Not cheap but seem to do the job just fine.

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Absolute horse-shit.

 

The only thing silicone is DOT 5.0

 

The rest are polyglycol (e.g DOT 3, 4, 5.1), except of course mineral stuff in Citroens and the like.

 

 

A new brake light won't last long because like condensers they are simply not made properly. The fluid isn't to blame, the greedy cunts commissioning/making the piss-poor replacement parts are. If they weren't such penny-pinching wanks, we'd get proper parts. On top of that, everybody* wants things for nothing these days so are in a way asking to be dry-bummed twice over. If the buyer voted with their wallets then companies like ShitPart wouldn't last 2 minutes peddling there shonky shit.

 

This has been my experience running a Minor daily for 13 years.   Anything rubber.  Anything electrical.   Switches.   Shit. 

 

I have replaced similar items on all my more modern cars - 190E, VW T25 - and it stays replaced.   Not on a Morris....I have had new fuel pumps fail (until I dealt directly with Burlen), new wiper switches, light switches, indicator switches all crap themselves almost instantly.   I have better luck pulling something off cars in hedges than I have buying from all these Minor specialists who trot out the same fucking excuse about "what people are prepared to pay".   Well, where is the choice then so that you can see how much I am prepared to pay?    

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If the buyer voted with their wallets then companies like ShitPart wouldn't last 2 minutes peddling there shonky shit.

Very slight disagreement.

 

Those there companies, as you chose to call those dumps, are solemnly to blame, because they don't give me the alternative to vote with my wallet.

They only sell shit and nothing else.

 

Hence I'm relegated to wallet voting by avoiding them and buying tings made before 1986, which sadly isn't always possible, because in many cases supply has dried up. A good example are tyres, which due to some whiny wimps concerned with their shitty little lives (fucking rofl!) have virtually become extinct.

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I've had a 50% success rate with the cut keys.

 

The door lock one allows access and egress.

 

The ingnition one fails to raise a spark. It shall go back to timpsons on Friday.

 

Surely in a 1950s British product you could just use a universal key:

 

post-19482-0-96987100-1515018014_thumb.jpg

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