Jump to content
Zelandeth

Zel's Motoring Adventures...Lada, Citroen, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 13/12 - Lada MOT Success!

Recommended Posts

15 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

I'm not too worried about issues with the drive at the moment.  She's stored in a very dry well ventilated and reasonably warm garage so corrosion should not be an issue really.

Good question on the resolution.  Had to poke it over the network (that system doesn't usually even have a display attached) to check, but it defaults to 1024*768 so that's the most likely option.

The display is really surprisingly clear - and will be more so once I lock the thing into a greyscale colour mode as if should get rid of the noise on the image due to the colour content.  Don't imagine locking the RPi into a greyscale mode is hard.

 

cool :) (I was wondering about the colour composite into a BW monitor/TV thing, I do remember you would get noise when doing that, but I could not recall if it was just with RF or also composite)

I was wondering, is it possible to make it so you can have the monitor turned on without having to turn on the rest of the system?

(for example if your working on something and you only just have to quickly pull up a PDF or something, it would save having to turn on the rest of the system unnecessarily)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, LightBulbFun said:

 

cool :) (I was wondering about the colour composite into a BW monitor/TV thing, I do remember you would get noise when doing that, but I could not recall if it was just with RF or also composite)

I was wondering, is it possible to make it so you can have the monitor turned on without having to turn on the rest of the system?

(for example if your working on something and you only just have to quickly pull up a PDF or something, it would save having to turn on the rest of the system unnecessarily)

You will pretty much always get some "dot crawl" artifacts on a B&W display being fed a colour video signal unless there is specific circuitry in there to remove it.  It's just down to how the chroma data is embedded in the signal.

Most B&W televisions etc this is completely irrelevant as the display isn't usually sharp enough for the effect to be all that noticeable, especially from normal viewing distances.  This display however is a *bit* sharper than your average TV.

IMG_20191125_214457.thumb.jpg.3e80199e680aa3fa7e536af45683a716.jpg

So the effect is quite visible - though more so here as you're looking at 100% saturation colour bars than in normal use.  If you just feed in greyscale video, the issue is invisible.

That above image though gives a better indication as the actual sharpness of the CRT (no idea what resolution that is - that's just what the HDMI to composite adapter outputs when it is powered up with no video input present).

I could probably make it so that the monitor could be powered up independently, though it would involve a moderate amount of work.  The power feed to it appears to be run from the computer itself rather than just a mains lead running obviously from the mains switch, so I'd need to do a moderate amount of work to chase that back to its source, so at the moment that's sort of listed under "stuff it might be nice to look into someday."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ah yes dot crawl that's the term i was looking for :) 

and I feared such on the monitor, reminds me of bringing up the CRT in AIO Macintoshes (iMac G3s eMacs etc) independently of the logic board so you could feed your own signal into them

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes you're winning, sometime you're not.

IMG_20191127_140733.thumb.jpg.6f5ce5956124559460f16a09fad865c0.jpg

Was last running a few days ago.

Battery fitted less than a year ago.

IMG_20191127_140506.thumb.jpg.1448a3e49d3d436a209a25377003bd0a.jpg

Better not be a failing alternator.  Given the amount of money the car is about to have spent on it, that would probably be the straw to break the camel's back...especially as it will be an absolute swine to fit, being buried under the hydraulic pump.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't understand the deeper tech stuff of the Sun tester but it's a really interesting write up. I've used similar machines in the past and it's enlightening to learn more about them.

Have you found out how much it would have been new? These kind of things were usually bought on the tick I think, as a result of being very expensive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/27/2019 at 9:57 PM, spartacus said:

I don't understand the deeper tech stuff of the Sun tester but it's a really interesting write up. I've used similar machines in the past and it's enlightening to learn more about them.

Have you found out how much it would have been new? These kind of things were usually bought on the tick I think, as a result of being very expensive.

Sadly that's not something I've yet been able to track down. An original pricelist would be great.  Though simply based on the construction of it, "eye wateringly expensive" springs to mind.

Speaking of expensive...

Xantia is booked in at Formula 1 on Monday to have four new Uniroyal RainExpert 3 tyres fitted.  Had to order them in unsurprisingly...205/60 R15 isn't exactly a common size.  They were able to do £83 each fitted, not grumbling at that, Black Circles and MyTyres were in the £72-75 range including fitting (an extra £15 per wheel over the price they show you on the front page), and I'm happy enough to pay a few quid extra to keep a convenient business going. 

While it's in having that done we'll get it on the ramps for a proper look at the exhaust to see what state it's in.  I know the back box is stuffed, but it's harder to judge the state of the rest when just peering under the car.  I'm hoping we can get it through the MOT at least so that can be dealt with more at my leisure.  Likewise a fresh set of spheres will be wanted in the not too distant future...but are going to have to wait until we've recovered from the dent it's about to put in our account!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This afternoon an envelope containing four 3/8" BSF bolts dropped through my door. 

The big question of course was whether they would fit the hub of the Invacar.

IMG_20191130_194929.thumb.jpg.aec1566f0cc3e8e94737427a86f5ffbe.jpg

Finally!  I can now confirm that the threads in the hub are 3/8" BSF.

With a little fermangling the old wheel nuts (which mostly had somewhat mangled threads) were drilled out to act as conical washers for the time being.

IMG_20191130_194941.thumb.jpg.88b465690b6586c5964428e15bb17a02.jpg

These were destined only for the bin so I had no worries about messing with them.

This meant that for the first time since September I was able to attach the wheel to the car again.

IMG_20191130_201201.thumb.jpg.3f756538932c3c64d021267dfbabbb92.jpg

...Which meant the car is actually sitting on its wheels again rather than axle stands.

IMG_20191130_204114.thumb.jpg.90e299442513f263b597379777ed026a.jpg

Obviously won't be getting driven on the road like this, especially with the remains of the original stud still being in there.  However it will mean that I can at least move the car in and out of the garage until such time as the replacement hub turns up.  Given that I need to shift it to get the Crypton machine out of there...that was kind of important.

While I was in the garage I figured it was time to have a better look at the booster fan for the heater.

Bit of experimentation was needed, but eventually found somewhere to put it where it was out of the way.

IMG_20191130_202244.thumb.jpg.da66add15fc3ce55091f0049e6f682d9.jpg

I hadn't been successful in tracking down the correct reducer to attach the ducting straight to the fan housing...so out with the duct tape.  Not pretty but it's air tight.

IMG_20191130_203142.thumb.jpg.03d4c905f4a322863ee6a188ba345b41.jpg

Then put in place.

IMG_20191130_203634.thumb.jpg.482344fc9ad9d45986c8dc11e607ffc7.jpg

It will be bolted in place to the top of the wheel tub and the wiring connected up shortly.

The airflow isn't fantastic, but it's better than it was unless you were going flat out. 

At least I know where we're going with the wheel studs/nuts etc now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This afternoon an envelope containing four 3/8" BSF bolts dropped through my door. 

The big question of course was whether they would fit the hub of the Invacar.

IMG_20191130_194929.thumb.jpg.aec1566f0cc3e8e94737427a86f5ffbe.jpg

Finally!  I can now confirm that the threads in the hub are 3/8" BSF.

With a little fermangling the old wheel nuts (which mostly had somewhat mangled threads) were drilled out to act as conical washers for the time being.

IMG_20191130_194941.thumb.jpg.88b465690b6586c5964428e15bb17a02.jpg

These were destined only for the bin so I had no worries about messing with them.

This meant that for the first time since September I was able to attach the wheel to the car again.

IMG_20191130_201201.thumb.jpg.3f756538932c3c64d021267dfbabbb92.jpg

...Which meant the car is actually sitting on its wheels again rather than axle stands.

IMG_20191130_204114.thumb.jpg.90e299442513f263b597379777ed026a.jpg

Obviously won't be getting driven on the road like this, especially with the remains of the original stud still being in there.  However it will mean that I can at least move the car in and out of the garage until such time as the replacement hub turns up.  Given that I need to shift it to get the Crypton machine out of there...that was kind of important.

While I was in the garage I figured it was time to have a better look at the booster fan for the heater.

Bit of experimentation was needed, but eventually found somewhere to put it where it was out of the way.

IMG_20191130_202244.thumb.jpg.da66add15fc3ce55091f0049e6f682d9.jpg

I hadn't been successful in tracking down the correct reducer to attach the ducting straight to the fan housing...so out with the duct tape.  Not pretty but it's air tight.

IMG_20191130_203142.thumb.jpg.03d4c905f4a322863ee6a188ba345b41.jpg

Then put in place.

IMG_20191130_203634.thumb.jpg.482344fc9ad9d45986c8dc11e607ffc7.jpg

It will be bolted in place to the top of the wheel tub and the wiring connected up shortly.

The airflow isn't fantastic, but it's better than it was unless you were going flat out. 

At least I know where we're going with the wheel studs/nuts etc now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Woo! im glad the whole wheel stud thing is finally over or at least finally figured out!

I see your electing to still replace the hub, have you got something figured out for the preloaded bearing issue?

I very much look forward to seeing TPA on the road once more its been far too long!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

Woo! im glad the whole wheel stud thing is finally over or at least finally figured out!

I see your electing to still replace the hub, have you got something figured out for the preloaded bearing issue?

I very much look forward to seeing TPA on the road once more its been far too long!

Basically going to treat it like any other wheel bearing...will see what sort of drag in on the other one with the driveshaft disconnected and just aim to get them matched.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Xantia is now wearing a nice new set of Uniroyal RainExpert 3 tyres.

IMG_20191202_164817.thumb.jpg.c828bd5daae7c22a988c5034d7fa944f.jpg

Tell you what I wasn't expecting...that changing the tyres has reduced road noise by what feels like about 70%.  It's not something I was expecting at all, so took me a good few seconds to figure out what had changed.

I'm glad to be back on these tyres to be honest.  Have been on others for a few years now down to availability and what cars came with...but the RainExpert has been my tyre of choice going back pretty much to the start of me driving back in 2003.

Annoyingly she will definitely be wanting rear discs for the MOT as they've only been working on a small portion of the rear of the disc - quite likely due to the usual Xantia issue of the caliper alignment being screwed up by dissimilar metal corrosion between the axle and caliper.

Deceptive this problem as the rear brakes don't do much in the Xantia unless you've a lot of weight onboard - the brakes in this one feel quite capable of stopping the rotation of the planet itself as they are.

Front discs will do a bit yet, but the pads are definitely getting towards due for a change.

IMG_20191202_152044.thumb.jpg.aaacc141fa0a7f109e09a75a0cb57b40.jpg

Couple of weeks over two years and ~20K miles.

The exhaust has also decided to be annoying, having somehow managed to part company with the rearmost hanger.

IMG_20191202_164831.thumb.jpg.fe8917f29b1a02a288bc57a9a219d13a.jpg

Still not quite sure how it's managed this...though the whole system appears to have managed to get twisted somehow and this is the first day it's not rattled in several months.  Will see if I can convince it to behave tomorrow.

If I can get this exhaust through the MOT I'll be happy...as I'd really rather not have to add another hundred or two onto the bill (and finding systems that actually fit well for the Xantia is a pain at the best of the time, irrespective of price).  I'd like to get a stainless system made...but I could do with a chance to recover from the work about to be done before having to pay for that too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Zelandeth just wondering, do you know where the wheel nuts from TPA came from?

because it turns out that the 10 and 12 inch wheels have their own specific wheel nuts to do to the shoulder angles being different between the 2, and that back in the day an approved repairer letter went out warning not to mix the 2 

although interestingly, checking the spare parts manual it only lists 1 type of wheel nut, perhaps this was some sort of later universal type? im not 100% sure (although I do know it dates from 1975, so maybe it was introduced to replace the 2 wheel size specific ones? but I don't know enough about wheel nuts to know if that would be possible)

"STY475 wheel nut nut, spherical"

just something stuart mentioned that figured id mention here just as a heads up, incase it is a problem or such

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as I'm aware the wheel nuts here are just standard Mini items.  When the switch to 10" wheels was made I imagine they just swapped over to the Mini nuts as well as they'd have been cheaply and readily available.  No idea of the origins of the ones the 12" wheels used though.

I seem to have two types here, one with a longer body than the other, the conical section has the same profile on them both though.  Having said that, they were in a huge box of bits, so could be from anything!

Given they are all a bit beaten up I'll just be replacing them all with new Mini ones.  They're not expensive so it just makes sense.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a spare set of untouched front brake pads for a Xantia, pretty sure they are Brembo and might fit yours if we are in luck and interested. I've done rear brakes on my old white Xantia before. They can get very crusty. I was nervous about the prospect of splitting the caliper to change the disc, but discovered that you can simply take the pads out, then reinsert/tighten the slide pin and gingerly unbolt the caliper from the axle in one piece without opening the system. Be careful unbolting the caliper from the axle, I read that the 17 mm bolts can sheer if things are seized up. I had no problems on mine though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

As far as I'm aware the wheel nuts here are just standard Mini items.  When the switch to 10" wheels was made I imagine they just swapped over to the Mini nuts as well as they'd have been cheaply and readily available.  No idea of the origins of the ones the 12" wheels used though.

I seem to have two types here, one with a longer body than the other, the conical section has the same profile on them both though.  Having said that, they were in a huge box of bits, so could be from anything!

Given they are all a bit beaten up I'll just be replacing them all with new Mini ones.  They're not expensive so it just makes sense.

ah thats a good point being on 10 inch wheels means you can just use normal Mini items :) 

I guess I should pass the info onto @dollywobbler when he gets back to the UK or such as TWC is on 12 inch wheels, although its been fine for the past 2000+ miles so If a wheel was going to fall off or something it would probably would of done it by now!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Broadsword said:

I have a spare set of untouched front brake pads for a Xantia, pretty sure they are Brembo and might fit yours if we are in luck and interested. I've done rear brakes on my old white Xantia before. They can get very crusty. I was nervous about the prospect of splitting the caliper to change the disc, but discovered that you can simply take the pads out, then reinsert/tighten the slide pin and gingerly unbolt the caliper from the axle in one piece without opening the system. Be careful unbolting the caliper from the axle, I read that the 17 mm bolts can sheer if things are seized up. I had no problems on mine though.

Unlikely the pads will fit unless we're really lucky as she's got the V6 spec brakes which are a good bit bigger than the standard Xantia ones.

I'm quite well aware of the big caliper retaining bolts being scary to undo because of the possibility of them shearing...which is why I'll be getting a garage to do that.  It's a half hour job for them if it goes well and will be a world of pain for me if it goes awry if I try to do it on the driveway.

Today I cleared a bunch of debris out of the door pockets etc, reattached the tailpipe to its hanger (still not sure why it had come off) and removed the demountable tow bar because I smacked my left shin on it yet again this morning.

IMG_20191204_133409.thumb.jpg.c27b24212095175505c298162440d2a6.jpg

Tomorrow morning she's off over to BL Autos in Welwyn Garden City...then I'll spend a day or two feeling like I've got a relation in hospital while I wait to hear what the list of needed work will be like.  Knowing the brakes now need work too I'm bracing for a bill in the order of £750.  We'll see.

There was one issue with the heater in the van.  Mainly that this is it "off."

IMG_20191204_175811.thumb.jpg.45408b9de58d916c5f984166a5fef9dc.jpg

The controller stays on so long as there's power.  This is hooked directly into the leisure battery so doesn't shut off when the DC stuff in the back.  This won't be a huge issue long term as a proper controller will be replacing this piece of tat at some point (the controller is where they skimped most on the production costs), but for now I'd like to be able to turn it off.

Half an hour later this was sorted.

IMG_20191204_185557.thumb.jpg.741a0e4d7c3da77c939d2cd44c124442.jpg

IMG_20191204_182551.thumb.jpg.1b514a8d3857aac396b0bcf31b8f8ce4.jpg

So it's now possible to turn it properly off without having to remove the fuse every time.

Obviously you need to wait for the heat exchanger to cool and the fan to stop before you can power it down though or you'll damage it.

Yes it does mean the clock resets to 00:00 every time you turn things back on...but as the clock keeps laughably poor time (loses about five minutes a day!) that's not really an issue.

... I'm trying to resist the very strong urge to reposition the controller so it's level given it will be getting replaced...but it's really bugging me.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well that was a waste of a morning.

Turns out the last email I sent to BL Autos never got through, vanishing into the aether somewhere...so they weren't expecting me to appear this morning as they'd never had the message from me saying I'd be there today. This meant that they had nowhere to put the car and their courtesy car was unavailable. So I was left with no option other than to drive back home and book it back in for the tenth.

This is a problem as I need the car on the weekend of the 14th/15th, and it's quite unlikely to be ready for then now...so much for my well laid plan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Turns out the last email I sent to BL Autos never got through, vanishing into the aether somewhere...

bit late now, but ask them to check their spam folder?, 9 times out of 10 thats where missing emails usually end up!

 

as for being a car down, carefully drill out the rest of the wheel stud in TPAs hub put the 4th bolt in and take her instead? :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, LightBulbFun said:

bit late now, but ask them to check their spam folder?, 9 times out of 10 thats where missing emails usually end up!

 

as for being a car down, carefully drill out the rest of the wheel stud in TPAs hub put the 4th bolt in and take her instead? :) 

Sadly I also need to fit a dog,  weekend worth of stuff and a passenger in too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wait... it's actually a non issue as I'll have the courtesy car while mine is in the garage.  My brain hadn't processed that beyond being a way to get back home from the garage.  Obviously not being our car the dog will need to travel in his crate (which he hates) which isn't ideal, but it will get us there at least.

Edit: Also just discovered that the bolts currently holding the wheel on the Invacar are too long and are jamming against the brake shoes, rendering the car immobile.

Blast...

Guess I'll need to attack them with the grinder then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a bit of time this afternoon to poke around with the Sun 1215.  No photos I'm afraid as I was busy and there wasn't really much visible to share anyway.

Bottom line though is that it looks like we've got everything aside from the gas analyser up and running now.  Still work to be done, there's a bit of AC getting coupled into the output of the power supply (obvious because of the gentle waving motion visible on the monitor), so I'll probably just do a wholesale replacement of the electrolytic caps in the power supply.  It looks like it will be quite a pig to get it out, so I'd rather only do the job once...hence changing the lot.

In other news, gave the Lada an hour or so of a run this afternoon to get it warmed through and to get some of the condensation out.  Started first touch of course.  I've decided to get off my lazy tail and start dealing with the MOT to do list.  This mainly means sorting the offside front brake caliper which has been weeping for a little while.  I've now ordered a rebuild kit for it which will hopefully sort it out.  Failing that I'll order a pair of new calipers.  That should hopefully be all the needs for the test, the exhaust is a mess but it's no different to how it was on the last two MOTs so it shouldn't be a fail, I've got a new middle and rear section on order.  At least I've had it all apart recently so I won't have the usual fight to get it apart.

Also on the subject of the Lada, it looks like we might have movement on it finding a new home.  Still very early days, so I'm not saying more than that...but it looks like things might be moving in the right direction.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Regarding the van heater, I was after your opinion? I'm considering one like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2019-NEW-Air-Diesel-Heater-2KW-12V-PLANAR-for-Trucks-Motor-homes-Boat-Bus-Van/153682665087?hash=item23c8335e7f:g:jp8AAOSwfW5dyhMw

Would you consider it possible to mount away from an external panel? I'm concerned about the exhaust, as in my potential location there would be around 2-300mm exposed within the cab, albeit tucked away under the seat and exiting inside the wheel arch. On one hand it would be utilising the waste heat from the exhaust, but on the other hand it may get too hot to want to have it even partly accessible!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

Regarding the van heater, I was after your opinion? I'm considering one like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2019-NEW-Air-Diesel-Heater-2KW-12V-PLANAR-for-Trucks-Motor-homes-Boat-Bus-Van/153682665087?hash=item23c8335e7f:g:jp8AAOSwfW5dyhMw

Would you consider it possible to mount away from an external panel? I'm concerned about the exhaust, as in my potential location there would be around 2-300mm exposed within the cab, albeit tucked away under the seat and exiting inside the wheel arch. On one hand it would be utilising the waste heat from the exhaust, but on the other hand it may get too hot to want to have it even partly accessible!

The exhaust does get *very* hot.

Wouldn't think it's insurmountable though...I reckon if you wrapped it with the tape for manifolds etc and then had it contained within a larger metal duct it should be fine.  I've not taken the thermometer near mine - but even on the outlet side of the silencer at the far end of the exhaust on mine it's got hot enough to have turned the metal that funky blue colour.

They are supremely effective little units though.  The one here (5kW in my case) can warm the van up from near freezing to comfortably warm in 10-15 minutes, then throttles back to a near silent idle state maintaining the temperature.  One of the issues with this controller is that it won't ever actually shut off when up to temperature - something the aftermarket controllers which I'm looking at for the future addresses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. It certainly sounds like more work is required, whether that's insulating the exhaust, or possibly modifying the passenger seat frame to allow it to fit underneath (and hence exit though the floor). Might drop hints for a Christmas present!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, strangeangel said:

 

For some reason I was reminded of this...

 

A13AuxCO2Filter2.jpg

 

 

You're speaking to someone who has copies on hand of every one of the Apollo Mission Reports & Comms transcripts... I've been a bit of a geek around the subject ever since I was old enough to know what the Moon is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

Thanks. It certainly sounds like more work is required, whether that's insulating the exhaust, or possibly modifying the passenger seat frame to allow it to fit underneath (and hence exit though the floor). Might drop hints for a Christmas present!

Probably easiest.

You don't need to make a big hole...just two that are roughly 1" (and one smaller for the fuel line).

IMG_20191105_155615.thumb.jpg.27745569e9729d1093f57f759205a586.jpg

This plate then goes over the top and the heater is bolted to that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well that could have gone better.

Dropping the Xantia off this morning at BL Autos (having actually got it properly booked in this time without missing emails causing trouble), I knew the following needed attention.

[] Lower steering control arm bushes shot - main thing it was going in for.

[] Probably an antiroll bar bush or two (in the boot).

[] Rear discs & pads (in boot).

[] Exhaust mid & rear sections.

This is the list which I was then given.

1076953755_IMG_20191210_1527222.thumb.jpg.1e7a8ffea3d302b28cca99edac2bce06.jpg

Oh balls...that's longer than I was expecting.

The estimate given: £1500 worth of work (approximately).

Some of it I'm looking at and asking myself if they really just don't want the work.  The rear arm bearings are something you usually have ample warning about the failure of...however I've had not a single clonk or groan from the back which would suggest issues.

Likewise the rear spheres.  They're definitely not in their first flush of youth and could do with changing, but they're not at the stage I'd expect them to be an MOT fail.

The HP pump and pressure regulator have been damp with LHM as long as I've had the car, but she's never actually used a drop of it...so that leak can't be that severe.

I'm very tempted to get a second opinion from my usual local garage that I trust...see what the list they give me looks like in comparison.  They're not Citroen specialists, but do know the marque pretty well and have known this particular car for something like the last 10 years.

You know what really grated?

When I was handed their courtesy car it was running on fumes.  So first thing I did was fuel it up... assuming at that point that they would have my car for a few days at that point, I filled it up.

So after about an hour and a half when I handed the keys back, they got the car back with about £70 of diesel in.  Despite that, they still charged me the full £36 for the vehicle condition report.  While I realise they're running a business, but that just puts my hackles up a bit.  I'd be surprised if one of the staff doesn't have that car home tonight! 

Speaking of the courtesy car...

IMG_20191210_131520.thumb.jpg.ebec744c205686daa95268cc5fa70e40.jpg

In addition to having no fuel in, I discovered the moment I got to the M1 that it was similarly lacking in screenwash and had utterly knackered wiper blades.  Oh...and a comically badly out of balance front wheel too.

It also started beeping at me and flashing the service light at me at one point...though helpfully not in conjunction with any other warning light or message anywhere.  Locking/unlocking can only be accomplished with the key from the passenger door.

Has also possibly the most unpleasant feeling gearchange of any car I've driven...made worse by the central armrest being perpetually in the way of the gear lever and handbrake.

Visibility is utterly shocking in all directions as is standard for a modern car.

I was glad to hand it back to be honest.  Which is a shame as I've always liked the look of the C4.

Just to make things even more fun, the rear silencer on the Xantia decided to totally part company with the rest of the system and start dragging on the ground halfway home...so I had to crawl around on the ground in the pouring rain cable-tying it to the spare wheel carrier (as the one remaining hanger wouldn't budge so I couldn't just pull it off and toss it in the boot).  What fun.

In other news, as it looks like we might be moving towards a deal being done with regards to the Lada (and me suddenly realising that the Xantia is in fact not going to be sorted in the short term and I am going to have to get my hands dirty), I've got it booked in on Friday for an MOT.  The brake caliper overhaul kit is on the way... exhaust sadly will just have to stay as it is for now as the correct mid section is no longer available it appears...so I'll either need to get one made or pick up a non-cat one and see if I can adapt it.  Hopefully there will be some movement there soon though.

My intention at this point is still to get the Xantia repaired...as I've no idea what I'd replace it with...and I'm already £400 into it between tyres and brake discs.  It ain't going to happen overnight though...and I'm reserving the right to change my mind there as it's a lot of money!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so the Xantia needs work, but I don't think the garage has quite put things into perspective with that list. I agree with you thinking they just don't want to do the work. I would definitely go for a second opinion and look to get the urgent messy jobs (like the exhaust) done for as reasonable a price as possible. Brakes I always like to do myself because it can be done slowly and methodically and isn't particularly hard work. Good luck with it. It's a special car that is worth saving.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aye, I'd probably have had the brake work done elsewhere beforehand if I'd known it was needed in advance.  Reason I'll be getting a garage to do it is simply that the rear caliper retaining bolts on Xantias love to snap when you try to remove them...and if that happens you're obviously in a world of pain.  I'd rather that happen to someone in a fully stocked workshop than to me on my driveway in the rain.  I'll probably hit them with my rattle gun and of they come out, fine...if not, garage can do it.

Exhaust was a bit annoying... I was quite up front that I knew it was ropey and that I was hoping to be able to patch it up enough to allow a decent system to be fitted early in the new year.  It demonstrated that ain't happening by half falling off on the way hone.

They missed the split nearside CV boot too.

I can't honestly see it not being sorted...I mean, what the heck would I replace it with?  Few things blend practicality, comfort, speed and ease of use together as seamlessly as this car.

I was braced for £750-1000 going in...but the £1500 (which may well have actually been less VAT now I think) was a bit of a shock!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By cobblers
      Train tickets booked from a train station 30 miles away to save £9 on the recommendation of the Mrs
      Mrs booked and primed ready to drop me off at said train station.




      Mobile tool kit primed and ready, missing almost every vital component due to EU regulations about leccy tape and screwdrivers on trains (I left them all at my mums house yesterday).
      If I do break down, I should have something to listen to while I work out whether I'm with the AA or RAC or none of the above.


      Not pictured: pile of cash
    • By TripleRich
      Hi all, new to the forum.  Thought you might be interested in what I've got myself into
      I'd been after my first classic car for a while.  If it's big and made in the 70s I'm interested.  Looked at few things like P6s, Zodiacs, Victors, SD1s and various other things.  Problem was I didn't want to spend a boatload of money on something that looked alright but underneath was actually a total heap.  The solution was to buy a complete heap in the first place and spend the money fixing it.
      So in January I went ahead and bought this from a colleague at work who was moving away and needed to get shot of it.

      It's a part finished restoration (I prefer not started) and it needs a whole load of help if it's going to stand any chance of using a road again.
      Pros
      It's right up my street.  Granada Coupes are quite odd and certainly stand out from the norm.
      It still has the original engine, box, interior and most trim.
      It came with loads of panels I need to repair it (mostly original Ford stock).
      It came with so many spares I could probably build a few Granadas and still have stuff left over.
      It was cheap.
      Cons
      Most of the front end has been cut off.
      Most of the body structure is quite rotten.
      It's going to take me ages.
      I work at a restoration company and my boss kindly allows me to keep the car there.  So I've got access to all the gear I need to restore it.  I've been busy on the car for a while now so will post more pics over the coming days.
      Cheers 
    • By Broadsword
      I think the Broadsword fleet has become sufficiently complicated to merit a combined thread so that gradually all new additions will appear in one place.
       
      As of Sunday 17th March the situation is interesting.
       
      Two Citoren Xantias (remember the white Xantia of Excellence is for sale people!)
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34699-w-reg-citroen-xantia-20-hdi-xantia-of-excellence-%C2%A3999/
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34596-citroen-xantia-double-madness-rust/page-2
       
      A turquoise XJR6 pending overdue-collection (need that gone now!)
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34003-jaguar-xjr6-double-madness-double-sold
       
      An XJS 3.6 manual project which will get in high gear soonish. Wont be a keeper but will be fun getting it back to something presentable. Drivers fantastic!
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34664-jaguar-xjs-36-manual
       
      A Range Rover P38, which is turning out to be really rather good.
       
      And to mix things up even more I'm off on a collection caper today. Had first refusal on it and was expecting it to come around in a year, but things soon changed and no way was I going to pass up on it. It may well render the second Xantia redundant as I've got a really good feeling about this motor.
       
      In the meantime here are some snaps of the Range Rover. As usual it was a car I said I would probably never buy due to their reliability*. I have said the same of Jag XJR, XJS, XK8 and I have had all of those now. Basically the moment I declare buying a particular car is impractical or improbable, I end up buying one.
       
      Things to note on the P38. It's a nice colour with tidy body. The EAS has been removed. It runs and drives lovely and it doesn't have enough electrical problems to hinder progress. The main one is the driver's side window not working, but that should be fixable. I've tried changing the outstation, that didn't fix it. Might be wiring under the seat. Other than that I bought it and took it for an MOT the very next day, and it passed. Since then it had what seemed like a battery drain, but since unplugging the RF thingy for the remote locking and putting on a proper lead-acid battery, which the car can actually charge, unlike the modern lead-calcium batteries, it has been perfect. I will treat it to a full service soon.
       
      Stay tuned for the latest collection later today!



×
×
  • Create New...