Jump to content

Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 22/04 - Oil Leak Possibly Found...

Recommended Posts

Wouldn't sticking an ally floor panel in give all manner of potential for issues with galvanic corrosion?


The switch to the disposable filters happened during the production run. DW's one is from 1972, so is the earliest setup. This uses the MANN W712 filter - same as the A+ engined Metros among other things...


I've not checked the timing yet - though I will. So long as it's vaguely sane I won't be trying to mess with it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't sticking an ally floor panel in give all manner of potential for issues with galvanic corrosion?


Potentially (see what I did there?)


The aluminium will (if in contact) corrode preferentially to the steel, but this can be minimised with some kind of barrier between them. Rate of corrosion will depend on how wet it is, and also the relative surface areas - so a large aluminium area such as a floorpan (assuming uniformly wet) with a small area of steel chassis should last reasonably well. An aluminium distributor in an iron block, maybe not quite so well...

Link to post
Share on other sites

YES! Thanks for confirming that. 2CV filter should fit. Had no idea it was the same as Metros.

If you go to the MANN filter website and stick W712 in there's an application list there which allows you to do some cross referencing.


Latest thing I remember spotting that uses it was a 1998 Frontera 2.4 petrol...

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I managed to get a couple of hours today before it started raining and hailing.

Very first thing I wanted to do was hit the thing with the pressure washer simply so it was less unpleasant to work on.

Here was the starting point...





Out came the rotary attachment which I usually keep well clear of cars because of its tendency to remove paintwork in addition to dirt.

Here's what happened...




The floor interestingly doesn't actually appear to be attached to anything other than a couple of rivets at the sides...Entirely non-structural.




Oh...and the obligatory photo of the AC logo.


It's a long way from being actually clean - but it's definitely a step in the right direction.

At the very least this should make it a LOT less disgusting to work on tomorrow when I have a stab at tracing the wiring out enough to see if I can get the engine to turn over.  At least it looks as though the wiring between the Dynastart and both the solenoid and regulator seems to be intact - so it shouldn't be too difficult to sort that side of things out.  Hopefully!

Good clean has to be a good starting point on a project like this at least.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's really quite easy to push.  Had no problem pushing it out or into the garage single handedly.  Well...once I realised I was trying to run over one of the spare wheels anyway.  Our driveway is on a slight slope as well, so I'd expect it to be easier to get it into the garage than out.


I can see the one pulley turning through the engine bay when it's moving and hear something rotating, I'm guessing the centrifugal clutch.


Even a slighty dragging brake could make the thing an absolute swine to push though I imagine!  Likewise I imagine the clutch adjustment could cause the same if it was dragging a bit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

They certainly should given they've got a bloody great belt between them - if it's hard to push though I imagine it would be because the clutch is dragging a bit so you're trying to rotate the engine as well.


...Worth bearing in mind though that I've no idea if mine is actually how it's meant to be!  Hopefully I'll find out if I have drive when I get the engine started!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just had a look over the diagrams, and have to agree.  Have heard a couple of people mention that the governor in the drive system can stick with disuse which could potentially result in it being "stuck in the wrong gear" for want of a better analogy.


Couldn't hurt to check and/or change the oil in the diff and gearbox though if you've not already done it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good question!  Don't have the manuals in front of me now so can't check...


Got a vacuum draining kit?  Would be slow pulling treacle out of there - but in the same breath there's not a huge amount of oil in there...


Or just pop the level plugs and top up if needed.

Link to post
Share on other sites


So after reconnecting what felt like about 29840453458 wires (it was actually about a dozen), and applying a battery, we had first light...

This was officially the first sign of life we had out of the car.


This is the mess currently under the instrument panel...


The screw terminal connectors are not permanent - they're purely a "let's see if it works first" test lashup.  Everything will eventually be properly done with crimp terminals and heatshrink - assuming I don't just decide to remake half the loom.  There are a lot of wires just dangling at the moment on the car and these are a handy was of safely terminating them for now.

At this point we proved that the engine would turn over on the Dynastart too, and that we had good oil pressure.

I was at that point however holding the leads onto the battery with a set of vice-grips for the one terminal and by hand for the other.  This was less than ideal, so I paused work while I went to get a set of battery terminals.

I didn't have any idea at that point however whether there was any life in the ignition system...Was there?

You bet there was!

Okay, this wasn't actually the first "start" - that consisted of a very anticlimatic couple of coughs.

The only problem I've run into so far is that the fuel pump isn't pumping.  Guessing it's full of gunk - as the filter gauze in it was totally plugged up with varnish when I took it out.  I'll get it off tomorrow to get a better look.

She was hard to start here because I managed to spill a bunch of fuel down the carb throat when I was filling the float bowl, so she was a bit flooded - and I didn't have a spare hand to crack the throttle to help clear it because I was holding the camera.

Sounds like she wants to live to me!

Things to investigate tomorrow:

[] See if I can coerce the fuel pump to do what the name suggests.

[] Investigate total lack of life from the charging system - most likely candidates I reckon are a duff/dirty voltage reg or dodgy contacts in the dash lamp.  I don't want to run it too long without investigating that as I don't want to damage the Dynastart.

[] If I can get a working fuel supply worked out, see if it will move under its own power.  I managed to un-seize the gear selector today so that's now moving nice and smoothly again.

Engine to me sounds like a really angry version of the soundtrack from a 2CV...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent! Sounds nice and smooth. I think I got lucky with the fuel pump on TWC, as it worked straight away. The spares car's pump was knackered. When I took it off, it was seized up, and the fuel line to the carb started dribbling nasty gunk everywhere when removed. Wonder if soaking the pump in something overnight might free it up a bit?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Will need to get it off and take a look at it I think.  Will depend really on whether it's actually seized up or just needs a clean.


The fuel lines were clear at least, and given how it seems to be behaving when the float bowl is filled with fuel, that bit at least seems to be doing vaguely what it's meant to.


...Just can't get any of the spanners I have onto the pump to get it off, need to get a skinnier one.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd put good money on DW for that!


I've got many, many, many hours work ahead of me sorting the body and floor on mine.  Plus the obviously needed brake rebuild, probably rewiring the whole car more or less - and probably a thousand other jobs I've not even thought of yet.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Will need to get it off and take a look at it I think.  Will depend really on whether it's actually seized up or just needs a clean.


The fuel lines were clear at least, and given how it seems to be behaving when the float bowl is filled with fuel, that bit at least seems to be doing vaguely what it's meant to.


...Just can't get any of the spanners I have onto the pump to get it off, need to get a skinnier one.


Can't say I struggled with a bog-standard 11mm spanner. Not much room to swing it, but compared to getting at the bolts for the gearbox mounts, an absolute doddle.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't say I struggled with a bog-standard 11mm spanner. Not much room to swing it, but compared to getting at the bolts for the gearbox mounts, an absolute doddle.

Problem I had is that the only 11mm I had to hand has a standard open end on one end and a straight ratcheted one at the other. The jaws and ratchet edges are too fat to get cleanly into it. A normal ring spanner should work just fine. However I don't have a standard 11mm ring spanner it seems.


Think on the video I mumbled something about the float bowl being empty yet again.


Edit: Using the wiring diagram and my photo I just figured out what's going on with the missing wire to the fuse box. Billy the Bodger has taken the wires that should be either side of the fuse and stuck them on the same terminal... presumably to resolve issues with a blown or missing fuse. I'll put that back where it should be tomorrow.


Edit 2: Just had another look at the wiring diagram, and think I may have cracked the non-functional charging system. I reckon the ground point is the one that should normally under one of the fuel tank brackets...which is currently flapping around in the breeze. I'd forgotten about that one. Let's ground that then see if we have any more stuff working.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Zelandeth changed the title to Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 22/04 - Oil Leak Possibly Found...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By SiC
      Placeholder topic for now. Currently in @Steve79 mums garage but hopefully transported sometime this month. Mostly down to when @worldofceri passes by next. No rush as I have plenty of other projects on the go, just with Spring coming up quick, I'm looking forward to buzzing around in this. So don't expect anything too exciting to happen for a few weeks yet.
      I was hoping the Dolomite would be drivable by now but that's not looking likely. So I'll have to either do the work on this on the drive, cart the Dolomite down to storage over spring/summer or send this off to a professional for it to be sorted. It'll need an MOT anyway, but I'd like to get some of the key things sorted before then.
      Main issues for the MOT:
      Dash clocks don't work. Battery has leaked in the original board and damaged the traces. Have another set of dash clocks here and I hope to make a good one out of the two. Something I'll definitely have to do as most mechanics won't want to touch soldering up PCBs. Brake pedal doesn't fully go to the top of its travel, unless you assist it by pulling it up. I believe the Rev mentioned corrosion at the top of the pedal or something that just needs cleaning odd. Cambelt. This one scares me everytime the engine is started. Label under the bonnet says last changed in 1998 and that's almost certainly true. Steve has done a few hundred miles on it two years ago, but I don't have the guts or will to do a cambelt roulette myself on it. Plus I don't believe they're that difficult to change. Possibly needs some welding on the NSF. I'll clean the area up and if it's small I may do it myself. Alternatively let my local garage pickup on it at MOT time and let them sort it if it's a problem. So hopefully a quick project to get back on the road. That's the intention anyway as I don't have time for too much more, given the Dolomite is taking my time up and the others need fettling too (1100 front calipers and also selling it, MGB service). Likely scenario is getting the above list done so I can drive it to the MOT station and let them sort anything else out needed for that if anything other comes up.

    • By mk2_craig
      Folks.  I don't care that the subject matter of this thread is, relatively-speaking, basically a new car.  I'm calling it shite and anybody who disagrees after letting the pictures do the talking can vanish off up their own arse as far as I'm concerned.
      With that out the way, here's the first bit of the tale.  I'll be brief.  Up until last August my wife was running this Astra Twintop of 2007 vintage.  Luxurious with the top spec "Design" trim level complete with comedy useless early built-in satnav tech, quick with the 2 litre Turbo motor.  Just about 34k on the clock at that point, and it had been treated to four new tyres the previous month.  Drove lovely.

      She then decides that a Mini convertible would be the way to go.  Here's the newest one she could find within budget :

      R57, registered mid 2010, Cooper S with the 1.6 turbo engine.  Looks alright eh?  

      Ok, it has some wheel and tyre-related issues.

      Admittedly, some perished rubber seals would want dealing with.

      Granted, those wipers are shagged.

      And those shitty, SHITTY "Cooper script" decals are way past their best, as are the faded and peeling bonnet stripes.

      Chunk missing outa that A-pillar trim, and what about that aerial?


      Someones only gone and nicked the COOPER S badges, but at least the bodywork's tidy, right?

      Hmmm.  Well, at least it still has a full set of locking nuts, doesn't it?

      OH COME ON!!!!

      So the background is that one of our local Polish car traders took it in as a part-ex against something better.  Usually he would smarten it up to punt on at a nice profit, but with his bodyshop man out of action he wanted this one off the books pronto and put it up for a couple of grand below the going rate.  I think most on here would have probably recommended walking away as rapidly as possible, but I can only conclude that I was high that day, because apparently we agreed a deal in which he took the Astra PLUS CASH against this tatty BINI.   Therefore it's been on fleet strength for the last seven and a half months.
    • By captain_70s
      I'm a masochist from Leeds who is running two rusty, worn out Triumph Dolomites as my only transport in rural Aberdeenshire. You might recognise me from various other forums and Facebook groups. Realistically I need to buy a modern car of some sort, but instead I find myself looking at £300 Citroen BXs and Triumph Acclaims on Gumtree and thinking "yeah, that'd fit right in with the rest of the broken cars I can't afford".
      On to the cars, the main attraction being my 1976 1850HL "50 Shades of Yellow" that I bought for £850 and is currently my daily driver, here is a picture of it before I sanded off some surface rust and sprayed it badly in the wrong shade of yellow with rattle cans:

      Within a month of purchase I managed to plant it in to a steel fence backwards after a botched gear change on a wet roundabout and ruined the N/S rear wing, although judging by the other dent that's packed with filler it looks like somebody had already done the same. I also managed to destroy a halfshaft and one of my Sprint alloys (good for an extra 15hp) in the incident, so now it's sitting on it's original steelies but painted black (good for an extra 5hp).
      It's only broken down on me twice. once with some sort of fuel delivery related problem which may or may not have been an empty fuel tank and once when the thermostat jammed shut and it overheated and blew out some O-rings for the cooling system. It has recently developed a taste for coolant and oil which is rather annoying, although it's done 89,300 miles which is about 80,000 more miles than BL engineering is designed to last, I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines... 
      I tried to keep ahead of the rust a bit by rubbing down the arches and re-painting them, but apparently rattle can paint isn't great when you are spraying it at -5C, it also highlighted how although my car might have been Inca Yellow in 1976 it's now more of a "cat piss" sort of shade. So I ended up with the wrong shade of yellow which has rust coming back through after 5 weeks. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
      The other car is the first "classic" car I bought, so I can't bear to sell it. It's a '77 Dolomite 1300 and it cost £1400 (about £400 too much) and has been nothing but a pain in the arse:

      It looks much prettier (from 100 yards) but that's most due to the darker paintwork hiding the rust. It lives a mollycoddled life in my garage, where it somehow still manages to rust, and is utterly rubbish. 0-60 is measured on a calendar, top speed is 80ish but at that point it uses more oil than petrol, it rarely ventures over 50mph and if you encounter an incline of any sort you can kiss that sort of speed goodbye, along with about £20 of 20W50 as it vanishes out of the exhaust in the form of blue smoke.
      One of the PO's had clearly never heard of the term "oil change" so it developed into brown sludge that coated everything internally with the next owner(s) blissfully pouring fresh oil on top of it. This lasted until about 600 miles into my ownership when there was muffled "pop" from the engine bay and the car became a 3-cylinder. The cause was catastrophic wear to the top end causing a rocker arm to snap:

      As this was my first classic car I'd assumed it was supposed to sound like the engine was full of marbles, it wasn't.
      I put the engine back together with second hand bits declared it utterly fucked and promptly did another 5000 miles with it. After about 3500 of those miles the oil burning started, valve seals have gone so it's been relegated to my parent's garage as a backup car and something to take to local car shows as the 1850 is now embarrassingly ugly. I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines (deja vu, anybody?) Oh, I also recently reversed it into a parked Ford Fiesta and royally fucked up the rear bumper, rear panel and bootlid. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
      There have been two other cars in my life. My first car, a 2008 Toyota Yaris 1.0 an it's replacement a 2012 Corsa 1.4T. I didn't really want either of them, but it's a long story involving my parents and poor life choices. Ask if you want to hear it!
      So that's a brief summary of my current shite. If you want more pictures or details of anything do say as I've got photos of almost everything I'd done with the cars.
    • By Shirley Knott
      Greetings all.
      After lurking here for a short while, frankly liking what I see and enjoying the various shite, the site has well and truly struck a chord with me. I'm a serial buyer of ropey sub £1k vehicles, don't have to but genuinely enjoy it.
      I feel like I might (Just might) have found my 'spiritual' home here
      I've been posting across the web on owner specific forums (Usually using either my JoeyEunos or RandomPrecion handles) for a while now, but from here-on-in I will pull my threads together and merge them here into one ghastly topic.
      My current steeds...
      Lupo 1.7 SDI
      SAM_5560 by
      and the work/story so far...http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/102863-joeyeunoss-sdi-beater/
      Golf Mk4 SDI
      SAM_5531 by
      and the thread.... http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/597074-project-slow/
      Early (1989) Mk1 Eunos (This one was recently sold)
      SAM_4656 by
      the thread...http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=213274
      Other shite I've owned and moved on in the last year include this ropey Passat...
      SAM_6011 by
      and this legendary £300 Fiesta Finesse...
      Festa by
      Cars I'd like to own/actively looking for in the forthcoming weeks/months/years...
      Rover 75 (Dizzler)
      Peugeot 405 (XUD)
      Mk1 Octavia (Estate/dizzler, pre pd or SDI)
      Honda CRV (Gen1)
      Volvo 240/850
    • By Peter C
      Woke up this morning, had a little time before I had to leave the house for work, had a quick look at what’s new for sale on Retro Rides and saw an ad for a W124 200E manual, located 15 miles from home. I had no intention of buying a car today but I had to have it! I called the seller and arranged a viewing.
      2 x rusty front wings (TADTS)
      1 x rusty rear arch
      Needs a polish
      Tracking is out because new track rod end was fitted for MoT
      Engine has oil leak/s
      Good points:
      It’s a W124 200E!
      5 speed manual transmission
      New clutch
      Brand new MoT
      Superb MoT history
      4 x as new Continental tyres
      Last owner for 15 years, her husband before that for 4 years
      Very tidy MB-Tex interior
      Drives well
      All electrics work
      The dealer kindly delivered the car to my house but I managed a pez station shot on route:

      Remove front wings, cut away rust and apply plenty of wob.
      In-situ similar repair for rear arch
      Clean and polish
      Service engine
      Adjust tracking
      Leave patina and enjoy the car as it is
      I will update this thread once progress is made.









      Hopefully these two will become good friends.

  • Create New...