Jump to content

Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 12/06 - Brake Light Upgrade...


Recommended Posts

Wouldn't sticking an ally floor panel in give all manner of potential for issues with galvanic corrosion?

 

The switch to the disposable filters happened during the production run. DW's one is from 1972, so is the earliest setup. This uses the MANN W712 filter - same as the A+ engined Metros among other things...

 

I've not checked the timing yet - though I will. So long as it's vaguely sane I won't be trying to mess with it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't sticking an ally floor panel in give all manner of potential for issues with galvanic corrosion?

 

Potentially (see what I did there?)

 

The aluminium will (if in contact) corrode preferentially to the steel, but this can be minimised with some kind of barrier between them. Rate of corrosion will depend on how wet it is, and also the relative surface areas - so a large aluminium area such as a floorpan (assuming uniformly wet) with a small area of steel chassis should last reasonably well. An aluminium distributor in an iron block, maybe not quite so well...

Link to post
Share on other sites

YES! Thanks for confirming that. 2CV filter should fit. Had no idea it was the same as Metros.

If you go to the MANN filter website and stick W712 in there's an application list there which allows you to do some cross referencing.

 

Latest thing I remember spotting that uses it was a 1998 Frontera 2.4 petrol...

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I managed to get a couple of hours today before it started raining and hailing.

Very first thing I wanted to do was hit the thing with the pressure washer simply so it was less unpleasant to work on.

Here was the starting point...

IMG_20180204_134619.jpg

IMG_20180204_134623.jpg

IMG_20180204_134628.jpg

IMG_20180204_134638.jpg

Out came the rotary attachment which I usually keep well clear of cars because of its tendency to remove paintwork in addition to dirt.

Here's what happened...

IMG_20180204_140200.jpg

IMG_20180204_140210.jpg

IMG_20180204_144738.jpg

The floor interestingly doesn't actually appear to be attached to anything other than a couple of rivets at the sides...Entirely non-structural.

IMG_20180204_144750.jpg

IMG_20180204_144801.jpg

IMG_20180204_144958.jpg

Oh...and the obligatory photo of the AC logo.

IMG_20180204_145012.jpg

It's a long way from being actually clean - but it's definitely a step in the right direction.

At the very least this should make it a LOT less disgusting to work on tomorrow when I have a stab at tracing the wiring out enough to see if I can get the engine to turn over.  At least it looks as though the wiring between the Dynastart and both the solenoid and regulator seems to be intact - so it shouldn't be too difficult to sort that side of things out.  Hopefully!

Good clean has to be a good starting point on a project like this at least.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's really quite easy to push.  Had no problem pushing it out or into the garage single handedly.  Well...once I realised I was trying to run over one of the spare wheels anyway.  Our driveway is on a slight slope as well, so I'd expect it to be easier to get it into the garage than out.

 

I can see the one pulley turning through the engine bay when it's moving and hear something rotating, I'm guessing the centrifugal clutch.

 

Even a slighty dragging brake could make the thing an absolute swine to push though I imagine!  Likewise I imagine the clutch adjustment could cause the same if it was dragging a bit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

They certainly should given they've got a bloody great belt between them - if it's hard to push though I imagine it would be because the clutch is dragging a bit so you're trying to rotate the engine as well.

 

...Worth bearing in mind though that I've no idea if mine is actually how it's meant to be!  Hopefully I'll find out if I have drive when I get the engine started!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just had a look over the diagrams, and have to agree.  Have heard a couple of people mention that the governor in the drive system can stick with disuse which could potentially result in it being "stuck in the wrong gear" for want of a better analogy.

 

Couldn't hurt to check and/or change the oil in the diff and gearbox though if you've not already done it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good question!  Don't have the manuals in front of me now so can't check...

 

Got a vacuum draining kit?  Would be slow pulling treacle out of there - but in the same breath there's not a huge amount of oil in there...

 

Or just pop the level plugs and top up if needed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Updates!

So after reconnecting what felt like about 29840453458 wires (it was actually about a dozen), and applying a battery, we had first light...

This was officially the first sign of life we had out of the car.

IMG_20180205_152232.jpg

This is the mess currently under the instrument panel...

IMG_20180205_162042.jpg

The screw terminal connectors are not permanent - they're purely a "let's see if it works first" test lashup.  Everything will eventually be properly done with crimp terminals and heatshrink - assuming I don't just decide to remake half the loom.  There are a lot of wires just dangling at the moment on the car and these are a handy was of safely terminating them for now.

At this point we proved that the engine would turn over on the Dynastart too, and that we had good oil pressure.

I was at that point however holding the leads onto the battery with a set of vice-grips for the one terminal and by hand for the other.  This was less than ideal, so I paused work while I went to get a set of battery terminals.

I didn't have any idea at that point however whether there was any life in the ignition system...Was there?

You bet there was!

Okay, this wasn't actually the first "start" - that consisted of a very anticlimatic couple of coughs.

The only problem I've run into so far is that the fuel pump isn't pumping.  Guessing it's full of gunk - as the filter gauze in it was totally plugged up with varnish when I took it out.  I'll get it off tomorrow to get a better look.

She was hard to start here because I managed to spill a bunch of fuel down the carb throat when I was filling the float bowl, so she was a bit flooded - and I didn't have a spare hand to crack the throttle to help clear it because I was holding the camera.

Sounds like she wants to live to me!

Things to investigate tomorrow:

[] See if I can coerce the fuel pump to do what the name suggests.

[] Investigate total lack of life from the charging system - most likely candidates I reckon are a duff/dirty voltage reg or dodgy contacts in the dash lamp.  I don't want to run it too long without investigating that as I don't want to damage the Dynastart.

[] If I can get a working fuel supply worked out, see if it will move under its own power.  I managed to un-seize the gear selector today so that's now moving nice and smoothly again.

Engine to me sounds like a really angry version of the soundtrack from a 2CV...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent! Sounds nice and smooth. I think I got lucky with the fuel pump on TWC, as it worked straight away. The spares car's pump was knackered. When I took it off, it was seized up, and the fuel line to the carb started dribbling nasty gunk everywhere when removed. Wonder if soaking the pump in something overnight might free it up a bit?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Will need to get it off and take a look at it I think.  Will depend really on whether it's actually seized up or just needs a clean.

 

The fuel lines were clear at least, and given how it seems to be behaving when the float bowl is filled with fuel, that bit at least seems to be doing vaguely what it's meant to.

 

...Just can't get any of the spanners I have onto the pump to get it off, need to get a skinnier one.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd put good money on DW for that!

 

I've got many, many, many hours work ahead of me sorting the body and floor on mine.  Plus the obviously needed brake rebuild, probably rewiring the whole car more or less - and probably a thousand other jobs I've not even thought of yet.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Will need to get it off and take a look at it I think.  Will depend really on whether it's actually seized up or just needs a clean.

 

The fuel lines were clear at least, and given how it seems to be behaving when the float bowl is filled with fuel, that bit at least seems to be doing vaguely what it's meant to.

 

...Just can't get any of the spanners I have onto the pump to get it off, need to get a skinnier one.

 

Can't say I struggled with a bog-standard 11mm spanner. Not much room to swing it, but compared to getting at the bolts for the gearbox mounts, an absolute doddle.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't say I struggled with a bog-standard 11mm spanner. Not much room to swing it, but compared to getting at the bolts for the gearbox mounts, an absolute doddle.

Problem I had is that the only 11mm I had to hand has a standard open end on one end and a straight ratcheted one at the other. The jaws and ratchet edges are too fat to get cleanly into it. A normal ring spanner should work just fine. However I don't have a standard 11mm ring spanner it seems.

 

Think on the video I mumbled something about the float bowl being empty yet again.

 

Edit: Using the wiring diagram and my photo I just figured out what's going on with the missing wire to the fuse box. Billy the Bodger has taken the wires that should be either side of the fuse and stuck them on the same terminal... presumably to resolve issues with a blown or missing fuse. I'll put that back where it should be tomorrow.

 

Edit 2: Just had another look at the wiring diagram, and think I may have cracked the non-functional charging system. I reckon the ground point is the one that should normally under one of the fuel tank brackets...which is currently flapping around in the breeze. I'd forgotten about that one. Let's ground that then see if we have any more stuff working.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Zelandeth changed the title to Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 12/06 - Brake Light Upgrade...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By sickboy
      Since my life has followed a nearly unrelenting course in project, “good-intentions”, “nice ideas” and general chod accumulation ever since I was about 14, I’ve decided I’d concoct all my projects into a haphazard fleet diary, for your amusement and viewing pleasure. My reports are likely to be sporadic, as and when I find time. 
      Coverage predominately will flit around my current stable, but I'll show some past vehicular activity too.
      I'll go into each in turn in the coming days and weeks, but briefly for now my current fleet comprises:
       
      1959 Ford 100e. Bought as a rolling shell in 2015. Built it up myself with all-Ford bits: 2.0 Pinto, type 9, GP4 MK1/2 Escort goodies up front, Bilstein 2.8 Capri struts on coilovers, 105e axle out back, RS turbo Recaros. Looks rough as fuck but it's solid and sorted underneath. Some don't like it because it's old, noisy and smelly. I love because it's old, noisy and smelly. Want to build a fast-road head for this soon really, but skint. Hardly needs to be quicker anyway.
      A lot of work to build, about 3 years, but immense fun to drive. 100% never selling!!!
       

       

      1991 Saab 900 16v Turbo. Bought last Summer, suspiciously cheap with a hot running issue and a heap of paperwork. I did the head gasket and rebuilt the head with new exhaust valves, stem seals, thermostat etc over lockdown. Also fitted new calipers, discs, pads and hoses all round, and replaced the NSF inner wing/driveshaft tunnel back in February.  Embarrassing MOT last month reveals more weldage is needed elsewhere, so that’s next for it and shall be reported in the coming pages


       
       
      1995 Citroen AX Jive. 1.0 4 spd. Hilarious to drive, immensely French, ripe but not rotten, wearing something akin to a peeved expression. Needs a few odds and ends but otherwise a goer. Back-up car in case my existing daily shits itself or something. Anyone spare a boot latch actuating rod and gear knob?

       

       

       
      2005 Clio 182. As close to a daily as I get (cycle to work). Not really Autoshite, or even very “me” frankly, but I’m convinced these are the last proper French hot hatch and soon to be daft-money, so I finally snubbed two years of looking-not-looking at them on eBay and bought this the other week. I'm 27 so many could argue it's a "quarter life crisis". Newest and quickest car I’ve ever owned, so probably not the wisest first choice to exercise modern car ownership.
       

       
      But my current main project, sapping funds and time and social life in equal measure, is my 1963 Ford Falcon 2dr sedan, so I'll post up the progress to date of that in the coming days.
      or now, here's a seller's shot of when I bought it.......
       

    • By danthecapriman
      Thought I'd start a thread about my old Capri since it's now reached it's turn in the que to receive a bit of attention.
       
      I've actually had this since 2001, it's an early mk2, on an M reg 1974. Being an early car it's still got mk1 rear axle and single acting type rear brake set up aswell as a few other minor differences from later cars just to use up remaining mk1 parts.
      It started life here in the Portsmouth area and doesn't seem to have ventured far since.
      Originally a stardust silver 1.6 L poverty model, which means virtually sod all regarding luxuries. Basic 2 pod dash with black 'crackle' finish facia, no radio, no sun roof or vinyl roof, not even a centre console!
      When I got to it unfortunately it had suffered severely from serious rust and latterly a vandal attack, having it's door and rear quarter panel booted in.
       
      Over the next couple of years I got it sorted and a cheap re paint into roman bronze, which was a favourite colour of mine at the time. For the first year or two it seemed fine but since then things have deteriorated.
      The respray wasn't good! It's thin in places and started to micro blister in various places, worst of which is all over the bonnet. The same bodyshop also did a bit of the bodywork I hadn't finished which was also pretty poor in some places.
      It's always been a great driver and never struggles at mot time so I just kept on using it and doing nothing more than collecting parts now and again with a view to sort it one day.
      It's also gained a few non original extras over the years like a higher spec wood effect 2 pod dash facia (which I like more than the original), a short console, brown interior instead of the utterly fucked black original, 'laser' 4 spoke alloys and a few other things.
       
      Anyway, fast forward to last weekend, when I dusted it off after winter and noticed various areas of new rust coming through or older rust that's gotten worse. So the decision was made to go for a professional resto job now before I end up finding something else to distract me (like big american cars with knackered engines!).
       
      1974 Ford Capri BBK244M by Dan Clark, on Flickr
      Here it is as it currently stands. Looks ok from a distance but the reality is very rough around the edges and the paint is so bad in places it's becoming embarrassing!
      IMG_0509 by Dan Clark, on Flickr
      And the interior which I'll be re trimming into black leather at some point after the body works done.
       
      It's been taken to the same place that did my Mercury's engine rebuild, since they did such a good job and they seem a good professional bunch.
      I dropped it off Monday afternoon for a thorough check over to build up a list of work and get a rough quote.
      Today I heard back from them.
      Good news so far, I suppose. It is as solid where it counts as I thought it was. Chassis is fine, original strut tops fine, most of the back end is solid and just needs a few repairs here and there.
      The worst is the bottom of the windscreen surround due to the wrong seal being used and then fitted badly causing leaks. Inner sill to A post bottom corner very scabby, front wings pretty crap, and various paint defects etc.
      The engine is fine, compression all in tolerances. Suspension needs work, and some brake pipes are getting quite rusty. So far so good and no surprises!
      There's still more checking to do over the next few days but it sounds alright so far.
      This work should be made a bit easier by having a lot of panels and parts to fix things already. The big find being a new unused pair of front wings. Very hard to find mk2 items now, though I did have to pay for them!
       
       
      The plan here is to make the car solid, reliable and good looking. I'm not making a show car or going too mad as that stuffs not my thing and if it was I'd start with a better more original car.
      Some of the later add ons will be ditched like the mk3 boot spoiler that I hate! And return it to more standard looking mk2 as it should be. No go faster mods or anything like that.
      The main priority is to get the body sorted and painted properly (engine out job and everything) then maybe a bit of mechanical work as needed.
      The original idea was to re paint back into original stardust silver, but having thought about it I'm leaning more towards another favourite Ford colour of the era, Miami blue metallic, which is a lovely colour! Any opinions?
       
      This will be another expensive project but not one I think I could do at home on the drive and do justice to, so I'd prefer to farm it out and get it right this time. It also means I can carry on working on my Transit and Granada at home without another distraction!
      For anyone whose interested I'll try to update this now and then as things progress. I'll also try to get the old pics of the car from when I got it so you can see how rusty it was! Bear in mind though that I paid £100 for this car in 2001 with MOT and tax! Try doing that now.
      I'm sure this is going to be worth the expense, not that I'm even considering selling it of course but I've had it so long I kind of feel obligated to do right by the car in a weird way!
    • By Fumbler
      To mark the genesis of my fleet project thread I here present my new car: a 1997 Nissan Micra Shape-


      It really looks that good. There is a reason for this: its previous owner was an old lady who loved the thing so much so she made every effort to keep it in good shape. It originally came from Fleet in the GU postcode which suggests to me it was bought by the present dealer at auction, hence arriving down here in Kent. Before seeing the car I checked its MOT history and its only fails were thanks to broken stoplights, which shows me that it was very well cared for. I suppose an example of this was that on the last MOT, an advisory was a corroded rear silencer. The silencer on the car when I saw it was new. Methinks the lady wanted to keep it as good as possible. It was kept in a garage and so all the bumpers and black trim are very black and the tyres are in very good condition. Spare never used! Also included a free Dettol first aid kit from 1997.
      This car has 15000 genuine miles on the clock. We clocked over 15000 during the test drive! The lady owner really only trundled around her village in it and the MOT shows that it only did some meagre miles between tests. This, of course, came at a price. We saw a cherry red Micra from 2002 at the same dealer. Paint was shoddy and when they washed it the boot had massive sections of bare metal and it wasn't very happy. This car, however, is in fabulous condition and there was no contest between the two cars- it really is that good, inside and out. Immaculate interior, driver's airbag, cassette player... all there and all functioning (apart from cassette thanks to new battery and failed display). This meant that I bought it for £1600, £100 over what was my uppermost limit, but I knew I wouldn't see another like this that was in as good shape for a fair while. It was priced very ambitiously, at £1990, so I'm content in the fact I managed to slash a few hundred off the price. There wasn't that much paperwork though. All the dealership received was the logbook with 3 service stamps from 1998, 1999 and 2000, the radio key pass, a National Trust sticker, and the original paperwork holder. I suspect the old lady died and had her car auctioned, and the massive file of paperwork is now someone's egg carton, along will everything else she owned.

      As always, this car isn't exactly in showroom condition. While the inside is great and the floor is solid, and the underseal is in great shape, the not undersealed parts need a small looking at. Mainly the rear of the driver's side sill. It's really the only bubbling on the car. I suspect a well aimed stonechip managed to fester over the wintery salted roads, making it rust even more. It's around the size of a 5p piece, and will give me the opportunity to spray the insides of the sill with some chain oil to prevent any further corrosion. Behind the fuel tank there are a few rusty joints- places where the spraygun cannot get paint onto- which some Vactan and Dynax should put to rights. Alternator belt looks original because of the cracking and Nissan badges and will need doing soon as well as the front plate. As much as I like the 90's font and original dealer surround, the dishevelled R and general water ingress is a persistant MOT advisory. It could be the MOT station being strict (and most likely is considering there's a Saxo down the road with far worse blackening), however for the sake of peace of mind and all that, I'll get a new one made. The rear has already been replaced indicating this has happened before.
      All in all, I think this is a nice plucky motor. I'll have it by the end of the week; just got to sort out tax, insurance, and it's going to have an MOT. As part of the deal it's getting the MOT and an oil and filter change which will be something ticked off the list. It has some love scratches and chips here and there, but it drives well, is stiff and controllable, and should make out to be a nice summer project!
    • By rickvw72
      Hi all, I’m going to try to keep this updated as a diary of work done on my old Fourtrak. 
      I bought this a few years ago but have only recently got going on it properly, with several other projects on the go, times been scarce.
      Ill start with the main job, the rear crossmember. When I bought the truck this tube had snapped on the drivers side. This ruptured the brake pipes, and ruined all the already tired suspension bushes.
      So, out with the crossmember...
      The original is round tube, the new 3mm wall box section, it actually holds the anti tramp bars. 
      Yes the Fourtrak has a 5 linked rear suspension, and an LSD. Because race car!
      I didn’t take many pics at this time, so I’m trying to improve this and maybe a thread will motivate me to document it. 
       



    • By dome
      This evening I venture forth into hitherto unknown lands (Kirkintilloch) to collect my latest acquisition.

      Which, naturally, has issues.

      I have purchased my first line of defence.



      Which appears to have antigravity properties

      More will follow this evening...
×
×
  • Create New...