Jump to content

Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroen, Mercs, AC Model 70 & A Sinclair C5 - 27/11 - Jag MOT on Monday...


Zelandeth

Recommended Posts

Right... let's write that all again because the editor did that maddening thing where it decided that it would only overtype one bit of text nowhere near to where the cursor is thing following adding a quote.  I like this forum, but God I hate this editor.

8 hours ago, bobdisk said:

@LightBulbFunThere is a large relay somewhere to operate the starter side of the Dynastart. It could be the contacts in that. I did notice a voltage regulator in REV positioned on the chassis near the rear offside light. It looks like the Bosch one on the Daf. That has a conventional starter and dynamo, so they are probably different types, but in the same box.  Those are places to look for REVs charging problems.  @Zelandeth Has TPA got something similar?  It will have something like white paint as a sealer on top over the cover screw, covering the points. Before trying to adjust it, try cleaning the points and see if the voltage on load improves. It will have the Bosch type number on the cover. I had an awful job with the Dafs regulator but got it right in the end.  

All of the engine electrical kit in TPA lives down in this corner.  Single solenoid and a Bosch voltage regulator.  I can't remember if there are really any external extras for the Dynastart beyond what you'd have for a conventional generator and starter or if there are separate connections on the device itself you would hook up the same as though they were separate units.

IMG_20211123_142052.thumb.jpg.e0877be0dfe2dee267f1e2fbe542fb22.jpg

The black box under the regulator simply contains the ignition condenser and a remote engine start control.

4 hours ago, LightBulbFun said:

ah the starter solenoid on REV is fine thankfully :) just her battery does not have enough charge to turn over the dynastart/engine hence the Clunk is all you get without a jump pack! since the solenoid engages but the voltage just drops off a cliff,

although I will say on a separate note id like to check her Dynastart brushes just for peace of mind since they have never been checked in my ownership I dont think

indeed its a Bosch 20A voltage regulator, you can still get em new even :) https://prokschi.at/bosch-regler-20a-14v.html

not cheap mind! one of the interesting things on that web page is it says its a solid state unit made to look like the old mechanical units, but question I wonder is how do you adjust it?

or is it being a solid state unit, able to provide charging/14V over a wider engine rev range without needing to adjust anything? 

 

I wouldn't expect to see any adjustment options on a solid state regulator.  The only reason the mechanical ones have it is to compensate for physical variations from the manufacturing process and to adjust for physical wear.  With fully closed loop electronic control that just becomes unnecessary.

You really want to get that battery charged as soon as possible.  There's absolutely nothing worse for a lead acid battery than sitting in a discharged state.  I know it's not exactly a pleasant prospect hauling it up the stairs to the flat, but it's going to need to be done sooner or later.

Without a diagram in front of me it's a bit tricky to make any judgement on what's going on.  That said, while step 1 is always to check for any obvious loose or damaged wires/connectors, step 2 on anything with points is always to clean them...so I'd do that and see where we are before delving too much deeper.

 

1 hour ago, dollywobbler said:

TWC also notably doesn't really charge until I'm over 40mph. I do find myself switching down to sidelights in queues...

 

Useful to know...may just be the way they are then as it sounds like you're experiencing exactly the same. 

I do think my voltmeter reads a little artificially low too.  It's tied into the main switched ignition circuit, and there's quite a lot of voltage drop there at the best of times.  I seriously doubt the voltage at the battery terminals is actually dropping to sub 10V every time I brake!  Getting some relays to take the heavy loads for things like the indicators and brake lights off the ignition switched circuit is something I'd like to do one day.  There's far more current passing through the ignition switch than I'd like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Dynastarts are always going to be a bit of a compromise, given they do two different actions. But it's worth noting that my 2CV also doesn't charge at tickover and needs higher revs to put voltage back into the battery. Not as bad as the Invacar as it'll happily charge at say 30mph, but charging has come a long way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Zelandeth said:

All of the engine electrical kit in TPA lives down in this corner.  Single solenoid and a Bosch voltage regulator.  I can't remember if there are really any external extras for the Dynastart beyond what you'd have for a conventional generator and starter or if there are separate connections on the device itself you would hook up the same as though they were separate units.

from what I can tell on the electrical side of things, to me it looks like the Starter and Dynamo functions of the Dynastart are treated as if they where separate units, the Bosch regulator is just there for Dynamo functions, and then theres a separate starter solenoid as on any other car with a starter motor, for engaging the starter motor functions of the dynastart (in-fact I believe the Dynastart itself has separate windings for starting vs charging)

heres a general wiring digram for those curious 

image.png

and theres detailed info on the regulator in the workshop manual :) 

DHSS Workshop Manual For The Model 70 Three Wheeler(OCR).pdf

1 hour ago, Zelandeth said:

I wouldn't expect to see any adjustment options on a solid state regulator.  The only reason the mechanical ones have it is to compensate for physical variations from the manufacturing process and to adjust for physical wear.  With fully closed loop electronic control that just becomes unnecessary.

You really want to get that battery charged as soon as possible.  There's absolutely nothing worse for a lead acid battery than sitting in a discharged state.  I know it's not exactly a pleasant prospect hauling it up the stairs to the flat, but it's going to need to be done sooner or later.

Without a diagram in front of me it's a bit tricky to make any judgement on what's going on.  That said, while step 1 is always to check for any obvious loose or damaged wires/connectors, step 2 on anything with points is always to clean them...so I'd do that and see where we are before delving too much deeper.

 

Yeah! I really must do something about the battery, but not only is it 15Kg I have to lug upstairs but I have to actually remove it from the car first ! REV actually does have all her factory battery clamps/mounting hardware :) so im a bit worried at how much of a faff it will be to remove and then refit! since for once its actually properly fitted in place with clamps nuts and bolts rather then just a ratchet strap or something such! and it took me about 1 and a half hours just to fit a battery earth strap!

I think tomorrow or the day after depending on im feeling etc I might have a go at it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Out and about again today, and we went on the motorway again on the way home as I ran out of patience with the traffic on the A45.

This really drives home something - and that's how utterly and completely fscked the roads around here are.  It feels so, so smooth going up the M1. 

Got a 60mph limit around our area just now and on the way back from Northampton everyone seemed to be dawdling...so we ended up spending a good few minutes sailing past everyone in the overtaking lane.  Imagine that got a few puzzled looks.  About 60 does seem to be where she's happiest.

I've not noticed any real issues with over-the-shoulder visibility, so I think that must be down to having a different seat fitted.  I think I sit slightly higher up and a little further forward than I would with the factory seat. 

Definitely need to adjust the brakes again though, we've definitely got more free play than we should have.  Which isn't that surprising given how long ago it was last done and how hard the brakes get worked around here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time for another oil & filter change for the S123. 

IMG_20211125_135545.thumb.jpg.11b08a77ed8d60cfaf19f156e3d7be29.jpg

Had aimed for 500 miles but missed by a bit.

IMG_20211125_124957.thumb.jpg.babca3d137bcd8e05851b4cf4345d088.jpg

Still got some glitter in the drain pan sadly.

IMG_20211125_141442.thumb.jpg.f597241f2c761edc4602249e20fee985.jpg

Will continue to monitor, it'll take quite a while to flush it all out in its entirety after all and there definitely doesn't seem to be anywhere near as much as last time round.

 

This was meant to have been posted yesterday evening, but apparently it never got saved.  Not sure if my connection glitched or what.  I was wondering for the last hour if I'd accidently posted it in the wrong thread!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jag is booked in for its MOT on Monday morning.

I've barely even looked at the car save for one service this year and just sorting the alternator...which was playing up when it was tested last year!

Things I've noticed over the last couple of days I need to sort:

[] Windscreen washers are MIA.  Can smell screenwash and hear the pump running so hopefully just a split hose. 

[] Nearside fog light is intermittent.  It came on when I thumped it, but you can bet it will play up during the test.

[] Nearside headlight appears to be pointing at the ground about a foot in front of the car.

That's without going looking for issues!  I've got a thousand things to do tomorrow as well, so trying to find time before it gets dark will be a challenge.

Once it's got a fresh test on it will just be a matter of waiting for the new owner to have a day free to collect it I think.

At least I know where its history file is.  I'm still missing a stack of paperwork the best part of 6" thick between the van and the Xantia somewhere...which is really hacking me off as I know where it was prior to having to do a massive tidy up earlier this year.  It's most likely in one corner of the loft - but inaccessible without clearing a huge pile of other things out the way.  It's really annoying me though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Zelandeth changed the title to Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroen, Mercs, AC Model 70 & A Sinclair C5 - 27/11 - Jag MOT on Monday...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By Tommyboy12
      What do you get after 16 hours and 800 miles of driving on a Sunday to collect two cars? Well @sharley17194 picks up a 1997 Citreon AX from the depths of the Lakes on the North West coast past Keswick. However, we actually started the day by driving to just near Cromer on the East coast to pick up this!
      An Austin Montego poverty spec estate with a 1.3L A-series engine! Yes you did read that bit right! Yes I know the DVLA lists the model as 1.6... Yes its correctly registered as 1.3L. No I dont know if its a factory 1.3L! 😂
      My favourite part of all this??? (Apart from the doom blue colour and the absolutely terrible interior!) 281,000 miles on the clock!
      Collection went really well and the below posts follows my initial assessment of what is quite frankly the best car I have ever purchased.



    • By Fumbler
      To mark the genesis of my fleet project thread I here present my new car: a 1997 Nissan Micra Shape-


      It really looks that good. There is a reason for this: its previous owner was an old lady who loved the thing so much so she made every effort to keep it in good shape. It originally came from Fleet in the GU postcode which suggests to me it was bought by the present dealer at auction, hence arriving down here in Kent. Before seeing the car I checked its MOT history and its only fails were thanks to broken stoplights, which shows me that it was very well cared for. I suppose an example of this was that on the last MOT, an advisory was a corroded rear silencer. The silencer on the car when I saw it was new. Methinks the lady wanted to keep it as good as possible. It was kept in a garage and so all the bumpers and black trim are very black and the tyres are in very good condition. Spare never used! Also included a free Dettol first aid kit from 1997.
      This car has 15000 genuine miles on the clock. We clocked over 15000 during the test drive! The lady owner really only trundled around her village in it and the MOT shows that it only did some meagre miles between tests. This, of course, came at a price. We saw a cherry red Micra from 2002 at the same dealer. Paint was shoddy and when they washed it the boot had massive sections of bare metal and it wasn't very happy. This car, however, is in fabulous condition and there was no contest between the two cars- it really is that good, inside and out. Immaculate interior, driver's airbag, cassette player... all there and all functioning (apart from cassette thanks to new battery and failed display). This meant that I bought it for £1600, £100 over what was my uppermost limit, but I knew I wouldn't see another like this that was in as good shape for a fair while. It was priced very ambitiously, at £1990, so I'm content in the fact I managed to slash a few hundred off the price. There wasn't that much paperwork though. All the dealership received was the logbook with 3 service stamps from 1998, 1999 and 2000, the radio key pass, a National Trust sticker, and the original paperwork holder. I suspect the old lady died and had her car auctioned, and the massive file of paperwork is now someone's egg carton, along will everything else she owned.

      As always, this car isn't exactly in showroom condition. While the inside is great and the floor is solid, and the underseal is in great shape, the not undersealed parts need a small looking at. Mainly the rear of the driver's side sill. It's really the only bubbling on the car. I suspect a well aimed stonechip managed to fester over the wintery salted roads, making it rust even more. It's around the size of a 5p piece, and will give me the opportunity to spray the insides of the sill with some chain oil to prevent any further corrosion. Behind the fuel tank there are a few rusty joints- places where the spraygun cannot get paint onto- which some Vactan and Dynax should put to rights. Alternator belt looks original because of the cracking and Nissan badges and will need doing soon as well as the front plate. As much as I like the 90's font and original dealer surround, the dishevelled R and general water ingress is a persistant MOT advisory. It could be the MOT station being strict (and most likely is considering there's a Saxo down the road with far worse blackening), however for the sake of peace of mind and all that, I'll get a new one made. The rear has already been replaced indicating this has happened before.
      All in all, I think this is a nice plucky motor. I'll have it by the end of the week; just got to sort out tax, insurance, and it's going to have an MOT. As part of the deal it's getting the MOT and an oil and filter change which will be something ticked off the list. It has some love scratches and chips here and there, but it drives well, is stiff and controllable, and should make out to be a nice summer project!
    • By Peter C
      Woke up this morning, had a little time before I had to leave the house for work, had a quick look at what’s new for sale on Retro Rides and saw an ad for a W124 200E manual, located 15 miles from home. I had no intention of buying a car today but I had to have it! I called the seller and arranged a viewing.
       
      Faults:
       
      2 x rusty front wings (TADTS)
      1 x rusty rear arch
      Needs a polish
      Tracking is out because new track rod end was fitted for MoT
      Engine has oil leak/s
       
      Good points:
       
      It’s a W124 200E!
      5 speed manual transmission
      New clutch
      Brand new MoT
      Superb MoT history
      4 x as new Continental tyres
      Last owner for 15 years, her husband before that for 4 years
      Very tidy MB-Tex interior
      Drives well
      All electrics work
       
      The dealer kindly delivered the car to my house but I managed a pez station shot on route:
       

       
      Plans:
       
      Remove front wings, cut away rust and apply plenty of wob.
      In-situ similar repair for rear arch
      Clean and polish
      Service engine
      Adjust tracking
      Leave patina and enjoy the car as it is
       
      I will update this thread once progress is made.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      Hopefully these two will become good friends.
       

    • By dome
      This evening I venture forth into hitherto unknown lands (Kirkintilloch) to collect my latest acquisition.

      Which, naturally, has issues.

      I have purchased my first line of defence.



      Which appears to have antigravity properties

      More will follow this evening...
    • By rickvw72
      Hi all, I’m going to try to keep this updated as a diary of work done on my old Fourtrak. 
      I bought this a few years ago but have only recently got going on it properly, with several other projects on the go, times been scarce.
      Ill start with the main job, the rear crossmember. When I bought the truck this tube had snapped on the drivers side. This ruptured the brake pipes, and ruined all the already tired suspension bushes.
      So, out with the crossmember...
      The original is round tube, the new 3mm wall box section, it actually holds the anti tramp bars. 
      Yes the Fourtrak has a 5 linked rear suspension, and an LSD. Because race car!
      I didn’t take many pics at this time, so I’m trying to improve this and maybe a thread will motivate me to document it. 
       



×
×
  • Create New...