Jump to content

Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroen, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 26/11 - Blithering idiot...


Recommended Posts

Updates!

So, shortly this will be off to a new home...

IMG_20180115_162335_scaled.jpg

IMG_20180115_162307_scaled.jpg

IMG_20180115_162344-scaled.jpg

...having been in my ownership since brand new.  She's been an absolutely cracking little car and I'll be really sorry to see her go.  Cue the next three months of my mind going "did I do the right thing?" which always happens.  However last time the car moved prior to yesterday when I went to get it cleaned was about eight weeks ago.  Prior to that was about a month before that...it's just not been getting used.

If I was sensible, I'd just have sold it on the open market.  However I'm not sensible - and I despise the faffing around with timewasters that always seems to come from selling cars other than through forums like this - let's not even speak about eBay or Gumtree...So instead I wound up agreeing to do a trade for a project car.  While one that needs quite a lot of work done, it's one that's hopefully in the gaining value slowly over time bracket by now - and more importantly - will actually fit in my awkwardly narrow garage while still allowing you to get past it to get to the chest freezer that lives at the back.

So what's the project?

This is!

accf2.JPG

accf1.jpg

IMG_20180110_161401.jpg

Yep...It's an Invacar.  Well..technically it's not...it's an AC Model 70.  Or at least it used to be before it was hacked about to turn it into a tug that was used on a caravan park.  Hence the rear panel having been hacked about to accommodate a tow hitch (removed since the photo was taken), and the entire rear wheel tubs and arches having been sawed off to allow the comically oversized (Daimler!) wheels to be fitted.  Of course you can't fail to notice that the entire bloody nose is missing too...We've no idea.  Best guess is that it got damaged and they decided just to hack it off to make accessing the front wheel etc easier rather than repair it.  Oh...and the wiring loom has been royally butchered in quite a few places as well...so that will need repair.

The floor also has taken on the appearance and structural integrity of a soggy teabag.  This of course made me seriously doubt that the underside was going to be anything like intact, which would have immediately written the project off in my eyes.  However having a closer look...

IMG_20180110_155448.jpg

...showed that much to my astonishment that the chassis is sound as a pound.  Nothing that even looks vaguely suspicious and you think might make that sickening "scrunch" sound if poked...just solid.  There's a tiny section of one of the front outriggers (which I assume are just crash structure) which has a teeny tiny hole in, but poking it with a screwdriver (well...key) failed to make it any bigger, and even so it's an easy repair even with my limited welding skills.

The engine was apparently last running in late 2016, and the vehicle was driving then (albeit without any brakes).  So hopefully it shouldn't be too hard to get running.

Importantly, aside from the obvious bits of bodywork, it's complete.  There are quite a few things missing in the photos obviously, but the seller has them safely stashed away, and they will come with the vehicle.  Even more importantly, it already has a V5C with it, so I shouldn't have to go through the faffing about with the DVLA.  There will apparently be quite a few spares thrown in as well.

My rough plan at this point is as follows:

[] Get it running...I know this is probably a silly place to start...but let's face it, we've all done it.  We want to hear the engine go first.  It's also useful to know that bit does work when you're stuck at some impasse later on and want to set fire to it.

[] Remove body from chassis.

[] Repair floorpan and any bits of the chassis that look in any way suspect.

[] Rustproof the snot out of it.

[] Rebuild braking system.  I figure this will be easier to do with the body separated as access will be a bit easier.

[] Reassemble.

[] Repair damage to rear body and wheel arches.

[] ...Hope that by then I've formulated a proper plan to deal with the front!

Current theoretical plan is hopefully to be able to team up with someone who's got a Model 70 with good bodywork and take some moulds from that to allow me to recreate it (probably in several parts).  This could also prove handy for other owners who might have smashed corners etc.  Either that or find another scruffy front body section somewhere that's repairable and available for me to graft on.  The rear wheel tubs I'm currently thinking will wind up being adapted from Reliant bits most likely unless I'm lucky enough to come across a donor for bits of bodywork - which seems unlikely given that it seems that there are already more rolling chassis around than bodies to go on them.

We all know what they say about plans though - they never survive first contact with the enemy.

Whatever route I take to getting it done, it should definitely be interesting!

A big shout out to Dollywobbler for bringing these little cars to my attention.  Until his thread on the duo he's got hold of I'd never heard of them.  I decided on sight of that that I really wanted one, so started poking around a bit, expecting to maybe find one in a year or two...stumbling over a viable project less than an hour from home this quickly was at the very least unexpected.  There was no wish to seem like a copy cat or to steal any of his thunder - this just happened to work out in a way where things fell into place rather more effectively than I'd expected.

Expect a shedload more photos when it's delivered, hopefully at some point this week or next.

Now off to resume frantically trying to clear space for it in the garage.  I know I've got enough actual square footage there now - just need to play Tetris with the remaining content so I can actually fit the vehicle in it!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't really started digging for bits yet.  That's step two.

 

The rear wheels, while looking suitably mental (and I do reckon it would look ace with the arches extended to match) need to go for two reasons.  Firstly that they will make getting past the thing in my garage a nightmare - the fact that these are so narrow is one of the reasons I've been attracted to them.  Secondly is that they're not directly fitted to the hubs - they've been welded onto the original wheel rims underneath.  Fine for dragging stuff about in a yard - but I rather doubt the precision with which they're centred for use at anything north of 10mph, and I don't like the idea of dealing with losing a wheel in something that already only has three.

 

It's one of those cases where I honestly think it looks a lot worse than it really is.  It's structurally sound, has been running relatively recently and aside from the obvious GRP bits is pretty much all there.  It just looks like something out of Mad Max.

 

Body wise, I've not discounted the idea of (at least until something more model appropriate turns up) finding someone breaking a Robin/Rialto and seeing if I can hack it about to fit.  Rear arches I reckon that's definitely the plan.

 

I've no illusions of this ever being made into a concourse example - it will bear many scars and visible evidence of hackery, but they're all part of its story - and I like that.  It also means I won't feel quite so guilty if I decide to make a couple of modifications to make it easier to live with.

 

While most of its miles will probably be to/from shows - I do fully intend for this to see use for occasional local journeys if/when I manage to bring it back to life.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bother.

Looks like my new fan motor is indeed innocent in my current uncontrollable blower speed issue in the Activa.  Got the meter out today, and the control voltage is sitting stubbornly at 4.76V irrespective of what the fan speed control is set to.

IMG_20180117_145959.jpg

Why do I get the impression that the control unit that I need to get to next is going to be hard to get at...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't really started digging for bits yet.  That's step two.

 

The rear wheels, while looking suitably mental (and I do reckon it would look ace with the arches extended to match) need to go for two reasons.  Firstly that they will make getting past the thing in my garage a nightmare - the fact that these are so narrow is one of the reasons I've been attracted to them.  Secondly is that they're not directly fitted to the hubs - they've been welded onto the original wheel rims underneath.  Fine for dragging stuff about in a yard - but I rather doubt the precision with which they're centred for use at anything north of 10mph, and I don't like the idea of dealing with losing a wheel in something that already only has three.

 

It's one of those cases where I honestly think it looks a lot worse than it really is.  It's structurally sound, has been running relatively recently and aside from the obvious GRP bits is pretty much all there.  It just looks like something out of Mad Max.

 

Body wise, I've not discounted the idea of (at least until something more model appropriate turns up) finding someone breaking a Robin/Rialto and seeing if I can hack it about to fit.  Rear arches I reckon that's definitely the plan.

 

I've no illusions of this ever being made into a concourse example - it will bear many scars and visible evidence of hackery, but they're all part of its story - and I like that.  It also means I won't feel quite so guilty if I decide to make a couple of modifications to make it easier to live with.

 

While most of its miles will probably be to/from shows - I do fully intend for this to see use for occasional local journeys if/when I manage to bring it back to life.

Joe Mason was selling Reliant shells for £1 a few years back. He might let you have one?

 

https://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/news/general-news/2015-06/fancy-a-reliant-bodyshell-for-gbp1/

 

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/user/ccts1650/

Link to post
Share on other sites

The wheel arch sections should be easy enough to create molds for if DW will allow; polish and wax his one to within an inch of its life, daub mold release over the rear arches then follow it with gelcoat and several layers of resin and cloth. The rear valance would be easy enough too, although I think a nose cone may be a little ambitious...

Link to post
Share on other sites

The wheel arch sections should be easy enough to create molds for if DW will allow; polish and wax his one to within an inch of its life, daub mold release over the rear arches then follow it with gelcoat and several layers of resin and cloth.

 

Pretty much my thinking in terms of how to do it, though I'm missing the whole wheel tubs, not just the arches.  So probably going to aim to sort that first, then come back to worry about the outer arches.

 

Rialtos and later Robins both used 12" wheels didn't they, so the profile would be in the right ballpark.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty much my thinking in terms of how to do it, though I'm missing the whole wheel tubs, not just the arches.  So probably going to aim to sort that first, then come back to worry about the outer arches.

 

Rialtos and later Robins both used 12" wheels didn't they, so the profile would be in the right ballpark.

I think it was just Robin's that had 12 inch wheels. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is cracking stuff. I hope the distributor is not seized. If it is, leave well alone...

 

The body on mine really isn't suitable for moulds, as the paint is absolutely terrible. There's simply nothing to wax. The spares car is in a right state, but may already have been claimed too. It's a sad fact that there are more chassis out there than bodies, so don't rule out the idea of doing something daft with it. I suspect a Reliant body will be too heavy and wide though.

 

They're full of interesting engineering though, so I look forward to seeing how you get on with it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know there are a few folks out there who have these, so finding one with a good body to get a mould from isn't necessarily a problem.  The seller (who's helpfully closer to home) also has a few there of older models, so it's not impossible that I could use one of those - To be honest I'm not really worried about having absolutely period correct wheel arches.

 

It's actually a real shame that this has been hacked about, as it's otherwise in bloody good condition.  No cracks/chips in a lot of the usual places, and it doesn't look to have ever been painted.

 

Given that the spares car you've got looks to be restorable body-wise I'd feel bad ripping it to bits - especially given the aforementioned comment about chassis vs bodies numbers.  If I'm going to cannibalise a body to restore mine I'd really rather it be one that's beyond redemption.  As mentioned though, even a really smashed up front end is a better starting point than I've got so far.

 

I think if nothing else turns up I'll probably look at starting out with a Reliant nose, then chop a section out the middle to bring the width down to sensible levels, then piece it together.  It'll probably look awful but should serve its purpose until I come up with a better solution.

 

I'll be leaving the distributor well alone!  I know the engine has run with the timing set where it is relatively recently, so potentially fiddling with it will be waaaaay down the to do list - after it's been soaked in Plusgas for about a year.  Or five.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Zel,

 

Your fairy godmother here! Maybe?

 

I’m sure we can do something to help but you’ve got to keep it real.... No need to be so purist that it ties you in knots but the little blue beasties should be just that, no turbos, no comedy makeovers and no other front ends would be my advice..... but at the end of the day it’s your property or are you just its custodian for a while of one of the most historic of vehicles....?

 

Will be in touch :-)

 

Mark

 

post-24414-0-93029500-1516214808_thumb.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's quite useful to see in itself as it shows me how they were originally contoured - looks like they cut away directly above that outer curve when they hacked my rear body away - which in itself actually might make smoothly integrating the replacement glass fibre easier.

 

Mechanically it'll not be having anything stupid done.  I might go as far as electronic ignition and things like that which simply make it easier to live with.  Will probably sling a stereo of some description under the dash too so I don't die of boredom when I get stuck in the inevitable traffic jams around here.

 

Any non-stock looking front end will purely be in the interests of getting the car actually working.  If at a future date I manage to come across something usable to restore it to looking as the factory intended, that will be used.  I'm trying to be realistic though, and especially in the early days it may well be a case of "using what I can get" to get it on the road initially.  I suspect this car may see several facelifts!

 

Out of interest, the tube with the alloy cap on it immediately in front of the white cap (which I assume is the oil filler), what is that?  Crankcase breather?  Just slightly concerned if so at how much gunk (and water...) may have got into the engine on mine over time if that's been missing for a number of years as appears to be the case.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's quite useful to see in itself as it shows me how they were originally contoured - looks like they cut away directly above that outer curve when they hacked my rear body away - which in itself actually might make smoothly integrating the replacement glass fibre easier.

 

Mechanically it'll not be having anything stupid done.  I might go as far as electronic ignition and things like that which simply make it easier to live with.  Will probably sling a stereo of some description under the dash too so I don't die of boredom when I get stuck in the inevitable traffic jams around here.

 

Any non-stock looking front end will purely be in the interests of getting the car actually working.  If at a future date I manage to come across something usable to restore it to looking as the factory intended, that will be used.  I'm trying to be realistic though, and especially in the early days it may well be a case of "using what I can get" to get it on the road initially.  I suspect this car may see several facelifts!

 

Out of interest, the tube with the alloy cap on it immediately in front of the white cap (which I assume is the oil filler), what is that?  Crankcase breather?  Just slightly concerned if so at how much gunk (and water...) may have got into the engine on mine over time if that's been missing for a number of years as appears to be the case.

 

My assumption is crankcase breather. Do you have a copy of the manual? I have a PDF.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Documentation received, cheers!

 

First time I've seen the choke referred to in a carb diagram referred to as the "strangler" in a long time!

 

Does indeed appear that my engine is currently missing its PCV valve/cap.  Hopefully it's in a box somewhere - even more hopefully the sump isn't full of water or have (or has had) anything living in it...If the worst came to the worst and engine replacement is probably one of the easier things to source...but I'd rather not have to faff about with that nonsense.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Zelandeth changed the title to Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroen, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 26/11 - Blithering idiot...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By The Moog
      Didn't bother to do a collection thread as was a 30min drive so fairly boring.
       
      Yesterday I won this
       

       
      Which is effectively going to replace the civic and the xantia.
       

       
      Picked car from a bodywork guy in foreign lands (Yorkshire).
       
      First thoughts are that I think it has been sitting for a while but started straight up. Apart from service bits and potentially a cambelt everything seems to be good with it. Comes pre dented.
       
      Current is differently abled tax so that will need to be changed.
       
      Windscreen has small crack in passenger side.
       
      Runs really cold, this is after 30 miles of motorway

       
      Mind you it honks. Properly honks. Not as much as the focus I got from Shadow but not far off.
       

       
      List of jobs
       
      Oil change
      Spark plugs
      Air filter
      Thermostat
      Rear boot struts
      Front discs and pads
      Cam belt plus bits
      Ball joints
      Drop links
      Rear anti roll bar bushes
      Stereo code
      Windscreen crack
      Swimming pool emptied from boot wheel well
      Seal rear light clusters
       
      And a big does of cleaning
    • By BorniteIdentity
      This week, for the first time ever, I felt old. I have sciatica which swaps from one side to the other, arthritis in one hand and what I think is the beginnings of IBS. On top of that it took me 2 weeks to remember a registration number that once would take me 2 seconds, and I forgot my parent's wedding anniversary.

      I'm only 32.

      Shit. No I'm not. I'm 33. I forgot that too. (Genuinely)

      So, it's about time I committed some of my tales to paper. Well, a shonky server... but that's the best you can do in 2016.

      First up, a list of the cars I've owned (as best as I can remember) in chronological order.

      Main Cars
      1985 VW Polo Formel E. C158 TRT. This was given to me even before I passed my test.

      1991 Rover Metro S. J801 TAC. Bought about 3 months after I passed my test as I was convinced the Polo was about to shit its gearbox.

      1987 Volvo 360 GLT. D899 CBJ ___ Managed three months in a Metro before the small car and smaller petrol tank became a bore.



      Ford Mondeo and Honda Civic Coupe by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Ford Mondeo Zetec. V384 DBJ. Still the most I've ever spent on a car. It was 3 years old and cost, from memory, about £8,000. Just think of the Rover R8s you could buy with that now!

      1987 Volkswagen Golf GTI 8v by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1987 Volkswagen Golf GTI D79 CVV. I very nearly bought a MK1 Golf 1.1 but was persuaded, by my father amusingly, to buy this one from a different friend. From memory I gave about £500 for it, and sold it to some racers later that year for about £300. Amusingly, 16 year later I'd sell the Hartge wheels that came with the car for £530.

      1999 Toyota Avensis CDX by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Toyota Avensis CDX. V781 GDP. By far the best car I've ever had. Bought in 2002 for £5300, it had previously been a company car at British Telecom. I ran it from 62,000 to 174,000 before it became surplus to requirements. A German chap bought it on ebay for about £500 and drove over to collect it. Hero.

      2001 Ford Mondeo Zetec by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2001 Ford Mondeo Zetec. Y821 EEB. I should have loved this car. I gave £500 for it in 2008 which was stupidly cheap by anybody's standards. It needed 4 tyres (which actually was nice to pick good ones for once) and a coil spring. Sadly, it was just bill after bill after bill. I sold it and promised to never own another Ford. I nearly succeeded.

      1998 Nissan Almera by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1998 Nissan Almera GX Auto. S58 NLO. My late Grandfather's car and, upon reflection, my first proper attempt at bangernomics. I bought it for £500 in 2008 from the estate and ran it for well over a year and 30,000 miles. It was also my first automatic which, whilst a bit dumb, did lock up into overdrive and give a good 36 mpg no matter how it was driven.

      2004 Ford Fiesta 1.25 LX and 2006 Ford Focus 2.0 Ghia by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2004 Ford Fiesta Zetec. AG53 BWL. My wife's car which I ran for a couple of years when I bought her a Focus as a wedding gift.

      2003 Rover 75 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2003 Rover 75 Club SE. AX53 BFA. This is where my career as a serial car buyer really began. Ignoring all of the warning signs I decided to press a K Series into a daily 100 mile commute, which it did with aplomb. This wasn't actually the car I set out to buy, the one I'd agreed to buy OVERHEATED ON THE FORECOURT whilst I was doing the paperwork. Consequently I couldn't leave fast enough and bought a different car later that day.

      2004 Toyota Avensis T30-X by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2004 Toyota Avensis T3-X. KT53 DWZ. Sensible head back on, I decided to get back into something I trusted when my 3rd son was born. This was a lovely car, but not without its problems. The VVTi oil burning issues are well documented and do frequently occur. Ironically, this was less reliable than the Rover it replaced! Despite fearing the worst and 3 months off the road, the new owner has just MOTd it.

      1999 Toyota Avensis SR by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Toyota Avensis SR. V263 GDP. Back into bangernomics territory again. The last MK1 Avensis I had was the best car I'd ever had, so I hoped to replicate it with another T22 Avensis. This one came up for sale in my favourite (and rare) colour with a numberplate sequential to my previous car - so it was meant to be. I still have this now, and tomorrow it will tick around to 185,000 miles having been bought by me at 100,500.

      Side Bitches

      1974 Morris Mini 1000 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1974 Morris Mini 1000. GEL 517N. Well, I always wanted one - and was young, free, single and well off at the time (2003). A memorable trip to buy it when I called my new girlfriend by my ex girlfriend's name 20 miles into a 200 mile weekend away. She's never forgiven or forgotten but we're still friends. Oh - and married.

      1977 Ford Capri II GL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1977 Ford Capri II 1600 GL. SMY 675R. I can't remember why I bought this, other than I thought it'd be amusing. It was bought from Norwich for £350 and was perfectly well behaved for the 8 months that I had it (other than a flasher unit expiring). I remember being shocked just how much the windscreen would ice up inside, and duly sold it in November to a guy who was going to drive it daily! It's still alive and now, apparently, black! (Update - it's now silver!!!)

      1989 Volvo 340 DL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1989 Volvo 340 DL. G67 AVN. I bought this for £80. Unbelievable. It was utterly bloody perfect. I wanted to do a banger rally which is why the guy gave it to me so cheap. I'm still yet to do that rally, but no longer have the car. I sold it for about £300 to a family who were clearly down on their luck who, I hope, still have the car.

      1996 Toyota Granvia by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1996 Toyota Granvia. N775 JEV. My wife and I decided to increase our numbers further and, with our 4th son on the way, larger transport was required. We quickly realised you can either have 4 children and no apparel, or apparel and no children. After trying a very tired Mercedes Viano, the Granvia was found for 1/4 of the price and it's still here 2 years later. I can safely say that we'll never sell it - it really is another member of the family.

      1993 Mercedes 190e by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1993 Mercedes 190e. L795 COJ. I've admired these cars since I was a child. In fact, one of the very few toy cars I still have from my childhood is a Mercedes 190e. Regular readers of "Memoirs from the Hard Shoulder" will know what a PITA this car has been since day 1, but I get the feeling it's a keeper. We'll see!

      1983 Ford Sierra Base 1.6 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1983 Ford Sierra Base. GVG 510Y. Not explicitly my car, but it should be documented here for reference. Oh - and the V5 is in my name. The story is online for all to read as to how five of us acquired what is believed to be the only remaining Ford Sierra Base. Make a brew and read it, it's a fantastic story.

      1982 Ford Sierra L by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1982 Ford Sierra L. LCR 503Y. I accidentally won this on ebay for £520. Upon reflection, I shouldn't have sold it - but short stop of saying I regret it. I could never get truly comfortable driving it and, in fairness, I could scratch my Sierra itch with the base if I wanted. Sold it at a stupid profit of £1250. It is believed to be the oldest remaining Ford Sierra in the UK.

      1979 Volvo 343 DL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1979 Volvo 343 DL. DBY 466T As you'll see above, I'd had a 360GLT as a younger lad and fancied one of these earlier cars. The variomatic is, frankly, terrible but amusing. This car has just 8000 miles on the clock and inside was absolutely timewarp. Sadly, the huge bill for the Mercedes 190e cylinder head rebuild meant I had to sell this car shortly after acquiring it. Since then I've had a bit of money luck, and now realise I didn't need to sell it after all. Typical.

      I think that's it. My arthritis is playing up even more now. I've left out a few cars that were actually my wife's, but if I find pictures will add them in at a later date. I'll run this as an ongoing thread on cars and what's happening.

      Current SitRep:

      Purple Avensis: Just about to click over 185,000. Minor drama this week when an HT lead split but otherwise utterly fantastic, fantastically boring and boringly reliable.

      Granvia: Just done 1000 miles in a month around Norfolk, 6 up with suitcases. 31mpg achieved on the way up which is good for an old tub with a 3.0 Turbo Diesel on board. ODO displaying 175,000 which is a mix of miles and kilometers. Say 130,000 miles for argument's sake.

      Mercedes: Being a PITA. It's had the top end completely rebuilt after the chain came off. Now needs welding to pass another MOT and the gearbox bearings are on strike. It's about to go into the garage for winter until I can stomach it again. 151,000 miles on the clock.

      Sierra bASe: Still on sabbatical with AngryDicky who only took it bloody camping in cornwall! Legend.
    • By TripleRich
      Hi all, new to the forum.  Thought you might be interested in what I've got myself into
      I'd been after my first classic car for a while.  If it's big and made in the 70s I'm interested.  Looked at few things like P6s, Zodiacs, Victors, SD1s and various other things.  Problem was I didn't want to spend a boatload of money on something that looked alright but underneath was actually a total heap.  The solution was to buy a complete heap in the first place and spend the money fixing it.
      So in January I went ahead and bought this from a colleague at work who was moving away and needed to get shot of it.

      It's a part finished restoration (I prefer not started) and it needs a whole load of help if it's going to stand any chance of using a road again.
      Pros
      It's right up my street.  Granada Coupes are quite odd and certainly stand out from the norm.
      It still has the original engine, box, interior and most trim.
      It came with loads of panels I need to repair it (mostly original Ford stock).
      It came with so many spares I could probably build a few Granadas and still have stuff left over.
      It was cheap.
      Cons
      Most of the front end has been cut off.
      Most of the body structure is quite rotten.
      It's going to take me ages.
      I work at a restoration company and my boss kindly allows me to keep the car there.  So I've got access to all the gear I need to restore it.  I've been busy on the car for a while now so will post more pics over the coming days.
      Cheers 
    • By Coprolalia
      After several years here I'll fully admit I am not a seasoned chod-veteran like many, but here's my tosh.
       
      I'll begin with my dad and American chod. During my teenage years this was the toy barn:

       
      My first adventure in rebuilding began with my dad's 1952 GMC truck.
      Started like this.

       
      Freshly imported from a dry state with a solid body. Rear axle had been dragged around for a while and the drums were worn half away.
      228 cubic inches of straight six with knackered rings. Rebuild commenced.


       
      Spent a year rebuilding the engine with all fresh bits imported from the states. Neglected to acid dip it, and turned out one of the splash oil bores was clogged with crud. 500 miles later the big ends melted and fused. Much swearing, much vehicle aimed violence.
       
      Out comes that lump.

      This prime piece of chod donated it's heart.


      350ci of v8 muscle*. Actually originated in a smog tune Camaro, so about as shite a v8 as you can pick.




       
      Truck now owned by a family friend looking like this:

       
       
      My own first motor was this.
      1972 VW Beetle 1302s
      Lasted 500 miles. Failed on rust. Got it on the ramp and it had rusted right across the rear end. Engine was about to damn fall out. Whole thing needed a new floor plan. Got broken for parts.
       
       
      That got replaced with this:
       
      Golf 1.4i cl

       
      In around 2006. 72,000 miles on it at the time. One old lady owner from new, giffer driven, full VW service history. Bargain at £1k.
      Much work was done

       
      Now at 156,000.
      Syncromesh dead in 2nd and 3rd. Very noisy tappets. Engine mounts shot. Rotten jacking points. Bugger won't die.
      MOT runs out next week, and I feel really bad at the idea of breaking it. Going to stick it in and see if it will pass an MOT, but I'm getting fed up of having squeaky bumhole journeys that it will drop a valve.
       
      18 months ago, added this to the fleet:
      Scirocco 1.8 8v carb
      £1k on ebay, advertised with one line of information.
      67,000 miles, FSH, 3 owners from new, mainly giffer driven, but owned by a young guy for a year before I bought it. Solid body, decent engine. Mk2 Golf GTD gearbox with a massively tall 5th gear (2k RPM = 80mph). Saving the pennies while commuting yo!
      Issues have been that it has not had it's perishables repaired in a long time, so since I've had it it's had:
      New hard brake lines
      New braided soft brake lines
      De-rusted and waxoyled fuel lines.
      New timing belt and aux belt.
      New temp sensor.
      A new CV
      Carb rebuild.

       

       
      In between I briefly flirted with a a Renault 4 van and a BMC FG350 Ambulance (converted to a camper). No photos of these.
       
      There's also been this 1987 Scirocco GTX 150,000 I bought locally as a cat C write off with the intention of repairing. Then found out the A-pillar, the B-pillar and rear chassis were buckled. Would never have been right again. Broke her for parts.

       
       
      Finally
      Jaguar S-Type 3.0 v6.

      Recently bought this for a charity rally. T-reg 1999, so think it still counts as chod. Plus it cost £750 and has done 165,000 miles.
    • By captain_70s
      Hullo,
       
      I'm a masochist from Leeds who is running two rusty, worn out Triumph Dolomites as my only transport in rural Aberdeenshire. You might recognise me from various other forums and Facebook groups. Realistically I need to buy a modern car of some sort, but instead I find myself looking at £300 Citroen BXs and Triumph Acclaims on Gumtree and thinking "yeah, that'd fit right in with the rest of the broken cars I can't afford".
       
      On to the cars, the main attraction being my 1976 1850HL "50 Shades of Yellow" that I bought for £850 and is currently my daily driver, here is a picture of it before I sanded off some surface rust and sprayed it badly in the wrong shade of yellow with rattle cans:
       

       
      Within a month of purchase I managed to plant it in to a steel fence backwards after a botched gear change on a wet roundabout and ruined the N/S rear wing, although judging by the other dent that's packed with filler it looks like somebody had already done the same. I also managed to destroy a halfshaft and one of my Sprint alloys (good for an extra 15hp) in the incident, so now it's sitting on it's original steelies but painted black (good for an extra 5hp).
       
      It's only broken down on me twice. once with some sort of fuel delivery related problem which may or may not have been an empty fuel tank and once when the thermostat jammed shut and it overheated and blew out some O-rings for the cooling system. It has recently developed a taste for coolant and oil which is rather annoying, although it's done 89,300 miles which is about 80,000 more miles than BL engineering is designed to last, I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines... 
      I tried to keep ahead of the rust a bit by rubbing down the arches and re-painting them, but apparently rattle can paint isn't great when you are spraying it at -5C, it also highlighted how although my car might have been Inca Yellow in 1976 it's now more of a "cat piss" sort of shade. So I ended up with the wrong shade of yellow which has rust coming back through after 5 weeks. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      The other car is the first "classic" car I bought, so I can't bear to sell it. It's a '77 Dolomite 1300 and it cost £1400 (about £400 too much) and has been nothing but a pain in the arse:
       

       
      It looks much prettier (from 100 yards) but that's most due to the darker paintwork hiding the rust. It lives a mollycoddled life in my garage, where it somehow still manages to rust, and is utterly rubbish. 0-60 is measured on a calendar, top speed is 80ish but at that point it uses more oil than petrol, it rarely ventures over 50mph and if you encounter an incline of any sort you can kiss that sort of speed goodbye, along with about £20 of 20W50 as it vanishes out of the exhaust in the form of blue smoke.
       
      One of the PO's had clearly never heard of the term "oil change" so it developed into brown sludge that coated everything internally with the next owner(s) blissfully pouring fresh oil on top of it. This lasted until about 600 miles into my ownership when there was muffled "pop" from the engine bay and the car became a 3-cylinder. The cause was catastrophic wear to the top end causing a rocker arm to snap:
       

       
      As this was my first classic car I'd assumed it was supposed to sound like the engine was full of marbles, it wasn't.
       
      I put the engine back together with second hand bits declared it utterly fucked and promptly did another 5000 miles with it. After about 3500 of those miles the oil burning started, valve seals have gone so it's been relegated to my parent's garage as a backup car and something to take to local car shows as the 1850 is now embarrassingly ugly. I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines (deja vu, anybody?) Oh, I also recently reversed it into a parked Ford Fiesta and royally fucked up the rear bumper, rear panel and bootlid. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      There have been two other cars in my life. My first car, a 2008 Toyota Yaris 1.0 an it's replacement a 2012 Corsa 1.4T. I didn't really want either of them, but it's a long story involving my parents and poor life choices. Ask if you want to hear it!
       
      So that's a brief summary of my current shite. If you want more pictures or details of anything do say as I've got photos of almost everything I'd done with the cars.
×
×
  • Create New...