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Zelandeth

Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroen, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 07/07 - Xantia Exhaust Fitted...

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Couple of things done today.

First was a general fluid etc check.  I didn't expect anything to have moved on anything aside from the Jag, but everything on that is treated with complete suspicion at all times.  Especially given how much oil it appears to leak.

Nothing had moved...to be honest, as usual.  Had been meaning to properly check the gearbox oil for a while though beyond "there's some in there."

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Can't complain there.  Slightly high reading is expected due to the slope of our driveway.

Had a look at the A/C, I left it with about 35psi in it after nipping up the leaking hose clamp a couple of days ago.

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That's an improvement...it was down to about 5psi after this time last time.  I really need to find my proper gauge set.  It's in the garage somewhere.  Will check it again in a week and see if the gas has continued to stay put.

While I was out there I did a bit more investigation of the ticking noise I've noticed over the last couple of weeks.  Sounds very much like an exhaust manifold leak...and has now been traced to the furthest back cylinder on the offside (6A?).  As disconnecting that injector makes the noise stop.

Hmm.  There was a brief period where I thought it might just be a noisy injector, but that hope vanished when I discovered that unplugging the spark plug lead had the same effect.  Oh.

So... Exhaust manifold gasket, cracked exhaust manifold, cracked spark plug...or something more sinister like head/head gasket issues?  Place your bets...

I'll get plugs ordered in (was sure I'd included them in the last parts order but apparently not), then whip that plug out.  At least it's probably the easiest one to get to!  At least it looks that way...I may well come to eat those words when I come to actually pull the plug out!  If nothing else it will give me a chance to do a compression test on that cylinder, to *hopefully* rule out head troubles.

If the exhaust manifold needs work, a garage is getting that job.  I'm not playing that game.

Speaking of exhausts though, the misaligned tailpipe tips were driving me mad.  I needed to do something about them...however discovered that they had now welded themselves into the tailpipes and stubbornly refused to shift.  I figured it would be easier to separate them from the silencer off the car.  Thanks to being stainless it came apart easily enough and indeed being able to get at it with a hammer meant separating the tailpipe tips took five minutes.

It would have been rude not to test out how things sounded without two huge mufflers on the back... especially as this system is quieter than the factory one, and I'd like to hear the exhaust at least a bit..albeit nothing over the top.  An experiment needed to be conducted though.

Yes...I think I will be speaking to someone about making up some slightly less silenced tailpipes for the Black Cat.

Things have been reassembled for now.

The only other thing of note today was spotting the heating controller in the van flashing at me that there was a firmware upgrade available - and being web connected meant that with a couple of button clicks we had the upgrade on the way.

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...And done. 3.2.1 is the current version.

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If only all modern technology behaved this well!

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Things I learned today: You need a special tool to wind off/on the clutch pulley on GM/Sanden A6 air conditioning compressors.

If I'd used half a brain cell and read up on the job before starting I would have known that and made sure I had said tool in stock.  It is now on the way, but if I'd used me head it could have arrived with the new clutch.

...I probably could have also just replaced the clutch itself rather than the whole lot, however as I have now utterly wrecked the friction surface the whole lot *definitely* needs changing.

Ah well, live and learn!

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had to post this here from the ebay tat thread @Zelandeth its an electric CF! surprisingly sophisticated electronics, I expected something resembling a milk float! 

42 minutes ago, BeEP said:

This is a box and very eco!  You can fight @eddyramrodfor it.....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1984-bedford-cf-electric-van/383610950990

s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

 

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Interesting work there. You sparked a thought with your aircon investigations. How did you conclude the compressor clutch needs doing out of interest? On my XJR recently the air con had a moment and there was smoke from the compressor clutch area. The rubber on the clutch melted and obviously no cold air since then. I immediately though air con compressor seized, but it didn't pop the fuse. How does A/C clutch failure manifest?

On the engine tick front. What oil do you have in there, when was it last serviced? Sounds like a valve clearance thing, but a damn good service might get you out of it.

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57 minutes ago, Broadsword said:

Interesting work there. You sparked a thought with your aircon investigations. How did you conclude the compressor clutch needs doing out of interest? On my XJR recently the air con had a moment and there was smoke from the compressor clutch area. The rubber on the clutch melted and obviously no cold air since then. I immediately though air con compressor seized, but it didn't pop the fuse. How does A/C clutch failure manifest?

On the engine tick front. What oil do you have in there, when was it last serviced? Sounds like a valve clearance thing, but a damn good service might get you out of it.

Report from the previous, previous owner to the previous owner, and visible disintegration (not melting) of the rubber part of the assembly.  When the compressor was replaced a few years back they re-used the original pulley and clutch assembly - which promptly disintegrated less than 6 months later.  As the car was pretty much just used a couple of times a year for shows, they never bothered sorting it after that.

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I'm assuming that the rubber part in there is a shock absorber primarily to protect the belt.

She's running 20W50 (can't remember which brand off the top of my head) as per the data in the handbook, oil and filter changed at the start of February.  I did wonder about a sticky tappet or something like that when I first noticed it from in the cabin, but surely that would be constant, irrespective of whether the cylinder is firing or not.  This very clearly stops when either the injector or spark plug for cylinder 6A is disconnected.

I know the car had done a lot of sitting around over the last couple of decades so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to drop it again sooner than later.

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1 hour ago, LightBulbFun said:

had to post this here from the ebay tat thread @Zelandeth its an electric CF! surprisingly sophisticated electronics, I expected something resembling a milk float! 

 

They were really quite sophisticated for their time.  From what I've gathered battery maintenance is the biggest headache with them generally.  Given that one's been sitting so long the batteries will inevitably be deader than a dodo and unless my memory was completely failing me, were based on a pretty unique chemistry (not a dissimilar situation to the Pug 106/Berlingo etc electric) which wasn't widely used, so replacing them isn't likely to be viable unless you wanted to go down the road of converting it to something more modern and obviously then having to also upgrade the charger, probably the motor controller and maybe even motor unless you matched the voltage and current requirements...and even then you're left with a rusty Bedford CF which still needs complete recommissioning, and even once up and running will struggle to top 50mph.

Don't get me wrong...If I had somewhere to put it and the time and money to restore it I'd absolutely love to take it on...but I haven't.

There was a metallic green one in what appeared to be some form of "day van" configuration parked outside our house back in 1981...Interesting to see that the grill on that very prominently had "Lucas Electric" shown on it in addition to the usual Bedford name, that must have been dropped in later years.  Quite surprised they were still making them four years later to be honest.

I fear that one is almost definitely destined to be broken up as a parts donor given the *relatively* solid appearance of it, and the fact that all the trim and such appears to be present and in pretty good shape.

I'm assuming that the blue thing sitting in the back of it is the charger...That's quite interesting in itself as I've never seen one before.  Likewise seeing the dash, again I wasn't aware that they were kitted out to use regenerative braking - that's definitely ahead of its time for an electric road vehicle.

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On 6/26/2020 at 11:41 PM, Zelandeth said:

Nobody this side of the Atlantic seems to have the compressor to condenser hose actually in stock, despite a number of places listing it.  My local hydraulic guy I'd usually use for this sort of things is only doing trade work at the moment. Fair enough.

I'm about to order a few more fittings and hose from places both sides of the Atlantic - if you let me know the hose details I can price up getting the bits and making one?

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58 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

They were really quite sophisticated for their time.  From what I've gathered battery maintenance is the biggest headache with them generally.  Given that one's been sitting so long the batteries will inevitably be deader than a dodo and unless my memory was completely failing me, were based on a pretty unique chemistry (not a dissimilar situation to the Pug 106/Berlingo etc electric) which wasn't widely used, so replacing them isn't likely to be viable unless you wanted to go down the road of converting it to something more modern and obviously then having to also upgrade the charger, probably the motor controller and maybe even motor unless you matched the voltage and current requirements...and even then you're left with a rusty Bedford CF which still needs complete recommissioning, and even once up and running will struggle to top 50mph.

interesting stuff!, I have wondered what their setup is, although I never actually googled to see if there was any info out there on them!

59 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

There was a metallic green one in what appeared to be some form of "day van" configuration parked outside our house back in 1981...Interesting to see that the grill on that very prominently had "Lucas Electric" shown on it in addition to the usual Bedford name, that must have been dropped in later years.  Quite surprised they were still making them four years later to be honest.

yeah thats one of the reasons why I shared it here :) plus much like myself I know you like  old electronics and old/quirky vehicles and this sits quite well in the middle of  the 2 :) 

1 hour ago, Zelandeth said:

I'm assuming that the blue thing sitting in the back of it is the charger...That's quite interesting in itself as I've never seen one before.  Likewise seeing the dash, again I wasn't aware that they were kitted out to use regenerative braking - that's definitely ahead of its time for an electric road vehicle.

yeah I do wonder what that is! its looks to be very large for charger!  unless its got a couple great big MARs in the back, but id expect them to have moved onto something else by the 1980s! LOL

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Ooh...Leave it with me.  I'll measure up the OD of the metal lines at either end tomorrow and let you know.  Making a "conventional" A/C hose and just cutting the metal lines either side of it and inserting via either a compression or flare fittings seems the way to go...Especially as one end already has a bloody flare within a couple of inches of one end anyway!  The inner ID of the hose is of course the same as the OD of the metal lines given the way it's set up.

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Flare fittings I think are much more common in the US, and I'll be ordering from this place so if you can match up the fittings so much the better!

https://coldhose.com/fittings/flare.html

The only hose I have in stock is reduced barrier, but not a problem to get normal diameters if that opens up a choice of fittings.

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16 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

Flare fittings I think are much more common in the US, and I'll be ordering from this place so if you can match up the fittings so much the better!

https://coldhose.com/fittings/flare.html

The only hose I have in stock is reduced barrier, but not a problem to get normal diameters if that opens up a choice of fittings.

That'll be 1/2" then...

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IMG_20200630_153322.thumb.jpg.748d49d8b2789ccff306e154c402d232.jpg

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So our most local stainless exhaust specialist still looks to be closed.  To be honest I'd rather be using another one over in Cambridge, so getting that looked at is likely to be on hold for a while.  It's also about item 28374638 on the priority list.  The horribly out of alignment tips had to go though as they made it look like I'd reversed into a low wall and made my OCD twitch every time I walked up to the car.

The only way I could make them sit even with each other resulted in them pointing upwards by about 20 degrees, meaning the system filled up with water whenever it rained.

The purists will hate me for it, but I reckon this both solves my immediate issue and actually looks better than the stock exhaust tip arrangement anyway.

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No it's not stock, but I think it doesn't look out of place.

The spindly little double elbow looks right on the saloons, but something like this suits the XJ-S better.

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36 minutes ago, timolloyd said:

A spoiler for the XJS? Or the Invacar?

Nope...though I may well use some of the remainder to reinforce a few bits of the bodywork on the Invacar and to make a heat shield for the bit above the exhaust silencer.

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What was that metal sheet about then?

Well I noticed something when I last had the tail pipes off.  They're just deresonators, so a straight through pipe with a perforated section surrounded by wadding.  You can see straight through them.

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This got me thinking...Could I be really sneaky and essentially just bypass the wadding by slipping a sleeve in?  Longer term I do intend to have some proper straight through tailpipes made up...but with the world being a bit nuts at the moment it looks like it will be a while before that's really viable...so time to experiment.

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This was just the rough cut, things were trimmed back to fit nicer before I actually tried this.  I figured given the way things are designed it's dead easy to remove again (it only takes five minutes to pull the back boxes) it was a worthy experiment. 

The plus side is that thanks to the shape of the silencer, the cranked bit is on the outlet...so the only way the sleeve can come out is back through the inlet side, so there's really no way that it could fall out the pipe while driving or anything daft like that.  It does mean that section has lost about 0.75mm worth of cross section...but I doubt that really makes any difference...it's still about 10mm wider than where it passes over the rear axle.

Did it work?

Seems so!  Bit later in the day I went out for a proper test run.

I'll take that as a win!  That's pretty much exactly the sort of balance I was after.  A nice growl at the low end, a proper howl above 3500rpm, but no real drone at either 60 or 70mph which I was most worried about.  I think the car sounds like it looks like it should now...

Yeah...I think we have our blueprint for getting something made up properly down the road.

I really need to get a new phone case that doesn't rattle annoyingly when recording video.

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Nope, the standard ones have a very similar double-elbow tip to the saloons.  The outlet on the tailpipes on this (it's a built-on-the-car type stainless system) are at a slightly different angle to the originals so there was no way to make them sit properly, so they needed to be changed as it was making my OCD itch. 

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I have always preferred the look of the curved tips (and it means I won't leave sooty marks on the van) so grabbed a couple here...I personally think this suits the car better.  That's very much a personal choice though!

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The ominous sounding ticking/chuffing noise has been identified.  It's an inlet manifold leak right next to the injector for cylinder 6A.

I could tell pretty much for certain that it was nothing to do with the exhaust because it was coming from the wrong place.  It seemed to be coming from within the V rather than the outside.  Hence me wondering if it was combustion gases leaking by the plug or possibly signs of a leaking head gasket.

Then I noticed a bit of oily residue (because everything is covered in oil) that was "wobbling" in an odd way on the manifold to head joint just forward of the fuel injector.

I was just about able to capture this on camera, though access is appalling, because V12.

Reasonably sure this is the source of it as if I stick a bit of grease on the end of my finger and put it there the ticking immediately stops.  Though this is the first time I've ever heard a leaky exhaust manifold like tick from a leak on the inlet side.

Well as the inlet manifolds are scheduled to come off as soon as the injection parts arrive anyway that should be sorted at the same time as obviously new manifold gaskets will be going on then.

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Got around to actually blanking off the water supply to the toilet in the van so that I can still use the sinks to wash my hands when I'm out with the dogs etc.  After scratching my head for about twenty minutes I eventually found something which was precisely the right size.

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Slightly unconventional, but it works!  Still really irked by this fault as sorting it is going to require me to dismantle about 60% of the bathroom.  Whether the toilet itself gets repaired or replaced will basically depend on how impossible to get into the casing it is.  I suspect that rusted screws will be the order of the day.  If it puts up much of a fight it will probably be replaced.

Have started to do a little bit of cleaning up in the Jag's engine bay while I was hunting for the ticking noise, just to make it slightly less unpleasant to touch.  To be honest I really just need to hit the whole engine bay with the degreaser and pressure washer as there is just so much caked on congealed oil in a lot of places it's not even funny.  The timing cover on A bank has obviously been leaking in such a way that it's dripped onto the alternator fan, which has done a fantastic job of liberally coating that entire quarter of the engine bay from sump to bonnet level in the stuff.  Also explains why the belt keeps slipping!

There were a couple of obvious leaks I could easily do something about short term though - the PCV connection into the manifold on B bank had obviously been weeping slightly for decades, just isn't a particularly snug fit on the barb the hose sits on.  One hose clip added to hopefully resolve that problem.

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It's very obvious where I've given the inlet manifold a bit of a scrub around where the oil was..So the manifolds *will* clean up okay with a bit of a scrub.  Just a shame so little of them is actually accessible!

Information labels are actually in surprisingly good shape under the grime.

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The whole lot really needs a darn good scrub from top to bottom.  I'll probably look to give it a going over once before I start pulling manifolds off as I really want to reduce the odds of me dropping gunk into the engine - though properly blasting all the crud off the lower areas may as well wait until after I've sorted the cam cover gaskets as I'm reasonably sure that's where about 90% of the oil is coming from.  Though getting rid of at least some of it will help show up what's historic and what's still currently escaping.  I've never had to actually top the oil up - but having said that it does take something like 11.5 litres of it so you need to lose quite a bit I imagine before it will show on the dipstick!

If anyone enjoys the really fiddly work associated with detailing engine bays...Be my guest!

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The immediate urgent job for the Jag though is tyres. 

What I hadn't spotted when I looked at them originally (and observed that there's excessive wear on the inner shoulder), was that the driver's side one is worn far more badly on half its rotation to the other half - and it was the good side that I originally looked at.  It's still legal as the tread is still above the legal limit over more than 75% of the width of the tyre and it's not down to the cords or anything like that, but it definitely needs changing now.  The fact that it's got about 0.75mm more tread on half the tyre than the other probably accounts for the horrible out-of-balance like vibration at specific speeds.

The rears have plenty of tread, but are pretty cheap, the best part of ten years old, and starting to perish in several spots.  As with the front ones, they are also the wrong size.  The car is currently fitted with 205/75 R15 tyres with a speed rating of H.  It should be wearing 215/70 R15 W tyres really.  I can't recall what load rating they are, but definitely lower than what's stated as being OEM fitment.

This size doesn't give me a huge amount of variety for appropriate rubber, it's a very common size for van tyres so you have to do a bit of sifting through the listings to find what is actually applicable.

While I'd love to fit the Pirelli Cinturatos that were original spec - at £400 odd each, that just isn't happening.  Much as my sense of order would enjoy actually having the specific tyres listed in the handbook on the car.  It needs to be a period looking tyre though, something with a very modern tread pattern would just look violently out of place on a car like the Jag.  Plus I'd really prefer a tyre with a nice squidgy sidewall like would originally have been fitted to ensure we get as decent a ride as possible.

The one I seem to keep coming back to is the Vredestein Sprint Classic, which the cheapest I've found so far is £224 apiece on MyTyres over here.

If anyone has seen them cheaper anywhere else please feel free to sing out.  Camskill are one provider I've heard a lot of people mention, however they only have two tyres available in this size, and they're both van types. 

Pretty much wherever I go, that bill is still going to sting!

Still waiting for the air conditioning pulley puller to arrive.  I got duped by a dodgy Amazon page again, which proudly proclaims to be a UK based seller in several locations...however has a tiny asterisk and states in about 0.2pt text "Goods may be dispatched from our warehouse in the People's Republic of China."  So that will turn up at some point down the road...precisely when though is anyone's guess.  At least it's not massively urgent.

Had to make another run up the motorway today and can confirm that the exhaust is not at all obtrusive at speed, which is nice.  The cruise control is also behaving far better now I've adjusted the cable a bit so the actuator is actually pulling the cable straight rather than at about 30 degrees as it was before.

I imagine once the tyres and brakes are done it will be like a different car to drive.

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Great problem solving on the engine tick. I reckon the choice of tyre you have come up with is pretty spot on. It just doesn’t seem to be value for money going for those really top end brands when many of the mid-range brands are really have a come a long way. As you say the next massive improvement out of the Jag you will gain from fresh rubber so it will  exciting to hear how it goes with new tyres/tracking done.

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49 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Got around to actually blanking off the water supply to the toilet in the van so that I can still use the sinks to wash my hands when I'm out with the dogs etc.  After scratching my head for about twenty minutes I eventually found something which was precisely the right size.

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had a proper LOLWUT moment before I read the accompanying text :) (had wondered if it had been rigged up as some sort of DIY Boot light or something such with wires running down the pipe etc)

50 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Much as my sense of order would enjoy actually having the specific tyres listed in the handbook on the car.

if it makes you feel better the Camac BC110 5.20-10 which is the "OE" spec tyre for the 10 inch wheeled Model 70 is still available at significantly cheaper then £400 a corner! although still about twice as expensive as a good 145R10 from what I have seen, so im not sure why someone might want to go for them!

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Well it looks like £224 each is about as good as it's going to get.

MyTyres: £224 EA Inc fitting.
Openeo: £224 EA + Fitting.
Black Circles: Not Available.
Vintage Tyres: £309.60 + Fitting.
Just Tyres: Not Available.
Camskill: Not Available.
Mr. Tyre: Not Available.
Formula 1: Not Available.
National: Not Available.
Tyres Direct: Not Available.
Kwik-Fit: Not Available.
Tyre Leader: £225 Inc Fitting.
Costco: Not Available.
ATS: Not Available.

There are a few cheaper options out there, but the idea of putting budget tyres on a 1700kg, 300bhp rear drive sports coupe seems a bit of a poor move.  It's just not a car which you should skimp on it feels like.

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Tyres look like it will indeed be the Vredsteins.  The cheaper options I was looking at don't have the correct speed rating.  The only tyres I can find in 215/70 R 15 with the correct ratings are the Vredstein Sprint Classic, Pirelli P5, or Good Year Sport Classic.  Plus a couple of proper re-issues of old types which cost silly money.  The Vredstein and Good Year tyres are roughly comparable on price but I've never been impressed with a Good Year tyre, so will probably head for the Vredstein.  Pirellis are a little more expensive yet don't seem to have anything particular to recommend them over anything else.

Will check with a couple of places locally just to see if they can do any reasonable deals, failing that will get them ordered soon.

Jag got a wash today as it was turning more grey than black again, aside from the front wheels which were turning black.

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Really doesn't scrub up bad.

Biggest cleaning type job though was busting out the degreaser and hitting the engine bay before I did the rest of the car.

To say it's clean would be a vast overstatement, but it's a lot cleanER than it was.  I was actually blowing sizable chunks out from the V of the engine.  Before and after from the same rough angle for reference.

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Looks a bit more presentable...plus means I can actually do things like topping up the screenwash without getting covered in oil now.

I meant to go back and do the fan  it forgot...so will need to go back to that.

A lot of people just about pass out in terror when I mention going near engines with pressure washers, much less in British cars that are this complex.  However I've never had any real issues to date, this one included.  I had a bit of a miss on the right bank until things warmed up - which I'm simply taking as an indication that my HT leads aren't at their best.  They could well be original for all I know, so fair enough.  Not an expensive bit to replace after all, albeit a bit fiddly.  Will get a set ordered in, planning on doing the plugs while I've got the inlet manifolds off and can actually get at things anyway.

Edited by Zelandeth
added "before" image

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On 6/29/2020 at 9:15 PM, Zelandeth said:

They were really quite sophisticated for their time.  From what I've gathered battery maintenance is the biggest headache with them generally.  Given that one's been sitting so long the batteries will inevitably be deader than a dodo and unless my memory was completely failing me, were based on a pretty unique chemistry (not a dissimilar situation to the Pug 106/Berlingo etc electric) which wasn't widely used, so replacing them isn't likely to be viable unless you wanted to go down the road of converting it to something more modern and obviously then having to also upgrade the charger, probably the motor controller and maybe even motor unless you matched the voltage and current requirements...and even then you're left with a rusty Bedford CF which still needs complete recommissioning, and even once up and running will struggle to top 50mph.

Don't get me wrong...If I had somewhere to put it and the time and money to restore it I'd absolutely love to take it on...but I haven't.

There was a metallic green one in what appeared to be some form of "day van" configuration parked outside our house back in 1981...Interesting to see that the grill on that very prominently had "Lucas Electric" shown on it in addition to the usual Bedford name, that must have been dropped in later years.  Quite surprised they were still making them four years later to be honest.

I fear that one is almost definitely destined to be broken up as a parts donor given the *relatively* solid appearance of it, and the fact that all the trim and such appears to be present and in pretty good shape.

I'm assuming that the blue thing sitting in the back of it is the charger...That's quite interesting in itself as I've never seen one before.  Likewise seeing the dash, again I wasn't aware that they were kitted out to use regenerative braking - that's definitely ahead of its time for an electric road vehicle.

i have been a passenger in the back of this at a Lucas electric vehicle open day

image.jpeg.5238c70a298f6ef6bdf4ec8c15ec6a4a.jpeg

this

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and this were also present

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and Phil the Greek had this fellow to wobble around in

No photo description available.

me dads bestie from uni was the gaffer at Evelyn rd so i also was taken for a ride in the predecessor to the CF which was bmc ju

like this only brown!

image.jpeg.e311cf4066e0e7ae07ba6bf47d7afdbd.jpeg

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Finally got around to dragging the Xantia back out from under the tree.  The new exhaust has been here and getting tripped over on a daily basis for a couple of weeks now.

IMG_20200706_172253.thumb.jpg.5aba87f5c60789b453b35adff8560fd6.jpg

Was really surprised at how easy it was to remove the old system, whole lot was off in less than ten minutes.

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While the front section at a glance looked generally to be OK, looking closer the front silencer has a couple of pinholes in it so obviously didn't have much time left.  Patching up the flange that attaches to the tailpipe would indeed have been a false economy.  No question as to whether the tailpipe was knackered though.

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Very obvious that's beyond help.

Sadly I then ran into a very typical pattern exhaust system problem.

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The front pipe is about an inch shorter than it needs to be.

I was pretty much out of energy by this point as that rear silencer weighs a tonne and trying to pick it up and wrestle the hangers into place (one of which is basically inaccessible thanks to suspension bits) is exceedingly uncomfortable when you're laying on your back.

I'll go back in tomorrow and "finesse" the hangers a bit to see if I can get enough give to get it to reach.  Which will mean I have to get it *off* the hangers again.  That will be fun.  If I can't make it reach there will be significant amounts of swearing.

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Exhaust fitted.

IMG_20200707_132243.thumb.jpg.b34667a4513e7583316bb3d750fa77a1.jpg

That was an absolute battle but we got there eventually.  I've still only got two out of the three hangers on the rear silencer on though.  I simply cannot get it into place and have all three on.  Not with the available strength I have while laying on my back anyway.  I may seek the assistance of someone with a proper ramp, experience and bigger hammers and hooky tools for wrangling exhaust hangers for that bit.

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