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quicksilver

Renault 6 rescue (Aug 2020 - rehomed)

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Here you go, pictures of the goodies:

Condenser x1

Points x1

Distributor Cap x1

Brake pads x4

Clutch kit x1

 

Tried to show the size of the clutch too, if that helps.  From memory, it was the spline count or centre bore size that was wrong on this clutch for my engine rather than the actual size of it, but I'm not 100% sure.  Anyway, it's all yours for the cost of whatever the postage is if it's of use.

 

post-5335-0-90212600-1504281209_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-82014100-1504281238_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-33549200-1504281267_thumb.jpg

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After a long time reading posts on this forum I have finally decided to take the plunge and register, so that I can share some of my misguided ramblings with fellow shiters.

 

First, let me declare a vested interest in this thread. As quicksilver's spannerman (and incidentally also his dad, aka quicksilver senior, see Six-cylinder's Field of Dreams pictures for the ugly truth) I am (far too) intimately acquainted with the aforementioned Renault 6.
Although I have worked on many different makes of car in the past, I am really a British Leyland fan, and the only French vehicle was a Peugeot 305 GRD estate that I owned many years ago which, compared to a Renault 6, is quite conventional. I am therefore a Renault virgin.

To sum up my experience so far with JNX137L:
Everything is either

 

a) Covered in a thick layer of oil and dirt.
B) Rusted solid.
c) Both of the above.

 

I think my new mantra for Renault 6 repairs is "Almost everything is almost impossible".

 

I suppose it serves us right for buying a right-hand drive, front engined, front wheel drive car fitted with an engine and gearbox designed for a left-hand drive, rear engined, rear wheel drive car.

 

I have to admit that there have been times when I have been tempted to abandon this quirky contraption to its fate, but, sitting here with skinned knuckles and oil under my fingernails, the incredible amount of support and encouragement evident from members of this forum has spurred me on to perserve with its reclamation. The contents of the swear box have also funded some nice new parts for it!
We'll keep you posted.
 

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They really are the most godawful contraption to work on in the engine bay.  Everything is in the wrong place and almost everything seems to have to be done with spanners you can only move a fraction of a fraction of a turn at a time.  Just horrible... and yet it was still an appealing enough thing for me to stick with it for much longer than I might had it been more conventional.

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First thing I did on the Renault was attempt to remove the dynamo to get the plugs out so I could soak the seized bores.

Can't remove the through bolt as, instead of being put in from the back so it will come out over the distributor with the cap off, it has to come out the front, but the water pump pulley is in the way.

Never mind, I'll remove the mounting bracket from the block instead.

Oh, the water pump adjustment lever is also bolted to this (why the hell have two belts next to each other, one for the dynamo and another one for the water pump, with separate adjusters?!) .

Need to slacken off the water pump belt adjuster and remove the belt first.

No problem, apply 13mm spanner to locking nut (no thread visible) and heave. No joy.

Locate metre-long "resistance is useless" bar and apply undue force.

SNAP!

Nut breaks thread off hefty 10mm diameter steel bar. WTF? No rust or other damage evident.

Chances of getting a replacement less than zero.

 

Fast forward to FoD event and AnthonyG kindly donates a pristine Renaul 6 owner's handbook to the cause (many thanks Anthony).

Idly perusing said publication this evening.

 

Quote:

 

"Water pump drive belt.

The adjustment is carried out by moving the tensioner pulley after unlocking its bracket (left hand thread)". My emphasis not theirs.

 

Mystery solved. If you tighten up a tight bolt even tighter with a very large bar, it breaks.

 

But why the (expletive deleted) is it left hand thread? I can see absolutely no reason for it being thus except French.

 

Don't you just love foreign tat?

Current answer is tending towards the not at all.

Maybe by tomorrow I'll feel less inclined to set fire to it and claim on the insurance (oh wait, there isn't any).

 

At what point does "quirky eccentricity" turn into "pain in the a**e"?

Answers on a postcard please.

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Also, the use of sizes of metric things not actually fitted to most toolboxes, like 7, 11 and 17.66667 mm nuts.

 

I have found a few sizes that aren't millimeters, inches or Whitworth on mine. Every tool will either not fit by a fraction or be just slack enough to round off before the torque required to loosen it. That and the design of the bolt that undoes towards a bulkhead or other immovable object, where you have to stop using the tool that fits in/on the end, and undoes just enough to wobble awkwardly in the hole but not have enough free room to actually be removed from it.

 

Welcome to French. If it doesn't have Mole grip marks on it, it's not been serviced.

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Project Renault 6 rescue has stalled (again!).

 

Any proper* mechanics out there who can suggest how I can remove the inner race of the inner wheel bearing from the stub axle on the rear hub?

 

post-22043-0-42746200-1506008220_thumb.jpg

 

It is a taper roller bearing and there is only about 1mm between the back of the bearing race and the backplate, so no room to get a puller on it.

I have tried to pull it off using a three-legged puller on the backplate, but it just bends the backplate.

The backplate will not come off until the bearing is removed.

The bearing face is tapered, so nowhere to grip that.

Since it is hardened there is no way I can saw it off.

I could maybe grind it off, but I am afraid I might damage the stub axle.

Maybe heat would help?

I have a 2000 watt heat gun which gets pretty warm, but probably not hot enough to make any difference.

I could try a blowlamp, but the hub is directly below the petrol filler and I really don't want to have to remove the petrol tank if I can avoid it.

I do not have access to any sophisticated* stuff like oxy-acetylene, but I do have several big hammers.

 

Thanks in advance for any (constructive) suggestions.

 

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Most British people hate the French because they're rude, they smell, their main cultural export is Gerard Depardieus, they whine about every-fucking-thing, the set fire to sheep if the wind blows the wrong way, they ruin holidays with air traffic strikes and keep fighting with us but losing (ignoring 1066). 

 

Anyone who has ever worked on one of their cars hate them because they design their friggin cars after polishing off 2 bottles of Vino Collapso for breakfast and are too bothered trying to shag the nearest object nearest to them (alive or dead) to care if its a good idea or not.

 

However, I suppose their quirkiness is why they are great. Its like listening to the Aphex Twin. Its their own shizzle. No style cues from anywhere else, 'this is what we are doing, either like it or lump it'. Some of it is sodding awful and badly thought out but most of it is so brilliantly off the wall its a pleasure to experience and stands out from anything else. 

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Thanks for all the prompt replies.

I have ordered this set of pullers as suggested by Six-cylinder:

http://www.ebay.co.u...~AAAOSwEetV-pW2

It's HongKongese but for £17 it's worth a punt.

Will let you know the results when it arrives. They say by Monday but I'll believe that when I see it.

Can't really justify the first one at £130. That's more than I've spent on all the parts so far.

Even if it turns out to be worth eleventy-squillion pounds when (if) it ever gets back on the road, I'm still a tight git.

 

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Most British people hate the French<snip>

 

I like France but find the french deeply suspicious; they like Jerry Lewis and 'Dunston checks in' was a hit over there.

 

 

However, I suppose their quirkiness is why they are great. Its like listening to the Aphex Twin. Its their own shizzle. No style cues from anywhere else, 'this is what we are doing, either like it or lump it'. Some of it is sodding awful and badly thought out but most of it is so brilliantly off the wall its a pleasure to experience and stands out from anything else. 

This is why Johnny Halliday is shit and Charles Trenet and Maurice Chevalier, while old and slightly louche, were not.

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This looks the same as Six-cylinder's other ebay suggestion, but at £19.99 instead of £14.99.

I am sure it would do the job, but the other one is a set of two different-sized pullers plus various extra extension rods and stuff, for only another three quid.

Like I said, I'm still a tight git!

Thanks for the suggestion.

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Removal of the rear inner wheel bearings requires the use of several Renault tools.

Fit the centralising sleeve of the Rou. 370 tool (17mm Stub axle) or Rou. 370-1 (20mm stub axle).

Fit the half shells around the bearing and hold the asembly together with the clamping ring.

Fit the Rou. 15-01 protective end cap to the stub axle and then use a suitable puller to extract the

bearing. Alternatively start wanking in long even strokes.

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