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pauldoubleyou

Lupo 20v turbo, sounds like a good idea

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Im at work loafing now so ill add some of the other crap ive managed to get done:

 

Front mount and all inlet pipework is completely done and sealed. Until i get boost through it ill know if its sealed or not. Might have to get some of the larger hose clamps as the hoses are 3" and some of them are a bit squiffy.

 

Top hose for the radiator is off an MGZS

 

Managed to fabricate a MAP sensor mount so thats lined in and working. Had to chop some of the plastic away behind the drivers headlight to get the inlet pipework to fit but it still went in successfully.

 

Forgot that i also need to get some 4mm pipework off ebay and plumb in one third of the N75 valve to the inlet. As i ran out of nipples (ooer) I managed to get an alloy piece with a nipple on for the boost gauge just next to the intercooler.

 

Could do with an oil pressure sender too, and I need to work out a way of mounting a catch tank. I had one but it just didnt work so i binned it. Might just run one of those shitty little cone filters for now and let it vent.

 

The lower half of the bumper is chopped to fuck to fit the front mount behind it which honestly, looks a bit shit. I might have to get some halfords blingboy grille mesh somehow just to make it look a bit tidier.

 

Im really concentrating on getting it running and moving properly then clean up the bits here and there after.

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Yet again this is inspiring me to crack on.

 

Driveshaft cups in.

 

Bit of a setback, both driveshafts need cutting and welding. About an inch off.. gonna take them to work tomorrow. Depends how good the welders are they will need clamping to some angle iron or something to keep them true. At least they’re solid.. some Lupo ones are hollow.

 

Anyone know what a price for someone to do it would be if the babcock guys look at me like I’m stupid?

 

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180627/d50e8c3cf15385607dfeaddabf94f859.heic

 

Otherwise I’ll crank the Clark up to 11 and do multiple passes I just can’t find my regulator grr

 

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180627/99addc0bb736ababc8b89559a069c239.heic

 

 

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It is possible to weld driveshafts, but the only sucessful ones I've ever seen was where the two halves of the shaft were machined so that one half was male and he other female, and they fitted really well together, with a machined V-prep for the weld. The weld was then an autogenous TIG weld to fuse the root, followed by multiple MIG passes to fill in the prep.

 

Worked beautifully. Remember, most propshafts are welded assemblies.

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It seems very common with the mk2 conversion crew that they weld and sleeve driveshafts. I might give it a go and see how it goes, thing is it’ll be in my garage with some angle iron to keep it straight and also with my bog standard mig.

 

Might be more tempted to take it to an engineering firm and get it done through them. There is a great thread on clubgti showing standard driveshaft lengths so I’m gonna pull the joints off and see what length I need.

 

 

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It is possible to weld driveshafts, but the only sucessful ones I've ever seen was where the two halves of the shaft were machined so that one half was male and he other female, and they fitted really well together, with a machined V-prep for the weld. The weld was then an autogenous TIG weld to fuse the root, followed by multiple MIG passes to fill in the prep.

 

Worked beautifully. Remember, most propshafts are welded assemblies.

Yep, not a stupid idea to weld them but would need to be well done as above to avoid balance issues I would think. 

 

Finding some standard ones of the right length sounds like the way to go.

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How are the cv joints held on at each end?

If it's a std spline shaft with an internal split ring then you might be able to get an engineering firm to trim each end off,and cut a new location slot further down the splines

The inner one is a circlip, the outer one is knocked on and kept in place with an internal circlip.

 

Stupid me has already cut one of them so I’ll give it a weld and sleeve and see how to looks and balances. Might be able to get it balanced on a lathe too.

 

Poor Clarke isn’t going to know what’s hit it lol

 

 

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Well it took me a while but I’ve managed to shorten one driveshaft. One to go.

 

Cut to size, tapered, welded in about 11 passes.. then sleeved, drilled and plug welded, then seam welded the sleeve.

 

Balanced in a lathe and voila!

 

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Poor Clarke was sweating like fuck

 

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And a bonus of the mobility scooter for lolz

 

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Well, almost as predicted, I Fucked it up. Another driveshaft ordered for round two.. it’s too long at the moment.

 

Soon as the wheels are dropped the engine has pressure on the mounts from the shaft.

 

Might seem obvious but with the wheel off and the suspension fully extended, I didn’t fully ‘pull’ the inner cv to have it extended.

 

I tried to tell myself it’s a learning experience but it’s frustrating. Ho hum, another driveshaft will be here Thursday for another go.

 

 

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Either way, it's still a great effort to fabricate something like that yourself.

 

Im sure take two will be successful.

Hope so, least I know where I’ve gone wrong. It would work but it would knacker the mounts.

 

Next driveshaft being delivered tomorrow.

 

 

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Well I received the second driveshaft, spend a while dismantling it, pulling the old one, refitting the replacement bearings and measuring up. I fucked up by about half an inch, which doesn’t sound like a lot but definitely affected it.

 

The chew on is that in order to get the measurement right I have to cut the driveshaft, reattach both ends CV joints, fully fit it, then see where they meet at their furthest extension and mark that for where to trim it down. I think I’ll completely clean out the joints and use fresh grease in case any crap has got in.

 

So tomorrow I’ll be grinding it down and if I have enough gas welding it up like the slag it is.

 

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All of this with a right dickhead of a wasp in the garage too, think I deserve a prize.

 

The benefit at least of these driveshafts is that for the 1.0 they were solid; for the larger engines they were hollow. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me tbh.

 

 

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The benefit at least of these driveshafts is that for the 1.0 they were solid; for the larger engines they were hollow. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me tbh.

 

 

 

The middle bit of a bar does bugger all for the torsional strength really - if the thing does twist, the innards twist a lot less than the outside.

And if the outside does twist, then the inside is fucked because it's under more torque because of leverage.

 

They make the stronger driveshafts hollow because keeping them solid is a waste of steel (and weight).

 

A 40mm diameter hollow driveshaft with reasonable wall thickness is loads stronger than a 25mm solid one.

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Right I went for round two today but ended up running out of gas, but made a start.

 

So I cut the shaft down and test fitted it, which was fine until I pressed down on the suspension. Tbh I wanted to lower the car anyway so I had to allow for some play.

 

I’d tack welded it place this time (seems obvious now) and test fitted. Which in itself is a huge chew on and time consuming. As I want the bare shaft for cutting and welding I had to keep fitting and removing both CV joints, fitting, removing, lifting and lowering the car blah blah blah.

 

So

 

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As you can see with the car lowered it fits fine, but the end of the shaft is still a little bit too close to the gearbox for my liking. Especially when pressing down on the suspension, which I plan to lower. So by my eye I wanted to shave 4mm off. I measured up the shafts so I know for later when I fuck it up again.

 

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Tack welded and in place, just before I removed it to shave it again.

 

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Shown so you can see the four tack welds

 

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Are you ready for max pikey? I stole this from the tip last week. It’s actually perfect for this job. Clamp the sucker up and you’re away.

 

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Trimmed down to the right length and about as tidy as it’s going to get

 

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Then crank that mother up to 1.21 gigawatts and here we go..

 

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I managed to lay a few welds and then my gas was running out, which tbh I’ve had for about six months and it’s done various jobs.

 

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Shitty Halfords mix. Not bad when you’re in a bind.

 

I do actually have a plan for a c02 extinguisher, I have a regulator and a flow meter but as these things go every single item has different threads. So I need to produce a bodge to get it all connected up.

 

Will pick up more gas tomorrow maybe, till then.. :)

 

 

 

 

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Right this took way too long to achieve but I finally got one driveshaft done and fitted. It was like comedy timing that I ran out of welding gas but all sorted now.

 

Also wired in the killswitch in the car to the coil feed

 

Need to get the car out of the garage by hand next and then turn it round and put it back in just to get the room. We will see how that goes.

 

Looking forward to washing it though

 

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Washed for the first time in a year d004d7119c4efb7fe913ce31d5d313c8.jpg

 

Forgot how shit the paintwork is down the near side. Gonna have to get a donor car sometime in the future I reckon.

 

Second guessing myself about the stickers and buckets too. Think I’d like to make it as sleeper ish as possible, but we will see

 

 

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This definitely needs slightly wider steels with placcy trims, sleeper tastic is the way. I absolutely love it

I have seen a few and it doesn’t look right however. I was thinking black steels, hide the front mount somehow and throw in some cloth interior, tartan rug and an sdi badge

 

 

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Cant believe i didnt think of this

 

Genius.

 

The plate being there was because i wanted ventilation to the radiator, i was going to go through the crashbar but im sure i can work it otherwise.

 

Also, some of what convinced me to change it back was that it must just attract coppers. Which is obviously bad.

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