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1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter

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On 5/20/2019 at 2:37 AM, 1970mgb said:

Those disks look a bit iffy to my eye, albeit serviceable.

Honestly, calipers are cheap and poorly maintained ones rust up. I won't start a brake job on an MGB without new calipers on hand, and decide when I have it apart whether or not to replace them. Usually I come down on the replace side, albeit the ones on my own car are still what was on it when I bought it(~15K later) . I actually bought the parts to do it on that car because they were squealing ferociously, but pulled the calipers off, found about 80% pads, and said "I can't change these." I cleaned them up, greased what needed to be greased, and slathered orange goop on the back of the pads, and they've mostly been silent since. Actually, I've just noticed a squeak returning in the past few weeks, so I need to attack them again and see if it's time to change them or if they just need another clean-up.

As for leaking in the footwell-have you(or someone else) circumcised Tom? If not, you need to spend some time shoving a wire into his knob to clean the gunk out, or just take the easy route and take a Sawzall to his knob. Often, wet footwells are from water coming in the fresh air intake and not draining out drain tube(aka Tom's Knob).

Depending how much much a pia it becomes to remove the hub, I may just put new calipers on. However right now I think they're alright after cleaning up and it's tempting to just leave the front for now. 

I cleaned out the tube as one of the first things I did. It's definitely was leaking through the windscreen wiper boxes as the puddle was directly below them and I could see it dripping. 

On 5/23/2019 at 4:13 PM, busmansholiday said:

That's a phrase you never hear in my part of the world.

Often not a good thing either ends of the spectrum! I was looking at the backlog of work that our team needs to do at my new job and I can see quite a few long + late days coming up. :(

I hear that H&S consultants can make a very nice living though!

5 hours ago, somewhatfoolish said:

Clean the old cylinders up, replace the seals if necessary, smear with rubber grease, bag them and stick them somewhere safe so that when the new ones inevitably fail in due course you will have forgotten where they are and need to buy new again. Guess how I know this.

I'll be keeping them anyway as I've kept all the bits, but for £10 a cylinder it doesn't make sense to rebuild them. The nearside one has one piston utterly stuck in its bore. Despite sticking it in a vice and trying to free with a long screwdriver, it ain't budging! Might attack it with a hammer next to see how bad the bore was. That one is going to be a bin job anyway. 

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I hate dealing with brakes. Especially anytime bleeding is involved. Absolute bloody mare of a job today.


Bleeding the rears went really easily. Got this new fangled pressurised thing. Basically like a Ezi-bleed but with its own air pump. Notice the wing protector this time. Didn't want more brake fluid spill screwing up the paint - like last time.



Handbrake adjustment ended up being a massive pain. With the drums on and adjusted, I could not get the cable loose enough to fit both sides. Even after undoing the handbrake adjuster all the way.


Ended up taking the drum off one side and doing the cable up that way. Then backing off the shoe adjustor so I could get the drum back on. Readjusted it all and ended up getting it working on the nearside. Offside doesn't want to lock unless I tighten the handbrake adjuster so tight, that the nearside is locked solid even with the handbrake off. Also requires a good 5 clicks before the car properly holds.


Must be doing something wrong.


Also went to remove the rear hub. This side has had a cross threaded damaged stud since I've had the car. Got as far as taking the nut off, then thinking better of it and put it all back together for another day. Unfortunately the wheel stud now just spins and won't tighten. Typical considering it's been able to torque up all this time. Another job pushed up on the priority list.



Next up the front brakes. I was debating not doing this, as the current do work. Even if the discs are manky and the calipers rusty. Decided in the end to just crack on.


Near side was first. Grease cap off, nut off, bearings out and then pull the hub off. Came off surprisingly easy.



Moved hub and disc to bench. Removed the two, put new disc on and tighten all up.



Fit on car and put together. Packing plenty of grease in. I think this side will need reshiming. Doesn't freely spin and zero play when pulled back and forth.



Pads had this weird coating on. Not sure what it was and wasn't that well put on. So I scraped it off




Then put brake grease on.



Put new caliper on, pads in and reassemble.



Drivers side was much the same, except the hub wouldn't come off. I ended up whacking the back side of the disc to slowly push the bearings forward. Drivers side bearings feel a tad more graunchy than the other, so may need replacing eventually. They are genuine Timken bearings that proudly say Made in England, so very likely original. Because of them probably being much better quality than any replacement, I put them back in for now and packed heavily with grease.


I did end up bending the backplate from the hammer attack, which caught the disc when reassembled. So had to disassemble it all to replace it. The kit did come with replacement backplates but these original ones looked in pretty decent condition, so I didn't intend to replace them.



Bleeding the fronts didn't go too well. Got them bled ok but then forgot that the fluid line was pressurised. I disconnected it at the master cylinder without thinking. Thankfully the coupling has a shut off valve, so I didn't get a 20psi spray of that. Unfortunately the entire contents of the master cylinder gushed out the top from the pressure release.


I tried mopping it up with paper towel as best as I could. But I suspect there maybe still some fluid sitting underneath the master cylinder. I need to get the clutch master replaced very soon, so I'll revisit that area then. Paint underneath there is fucked from years of brake fluid drips and leaks, so I'll clean it all up and give it a good slosh of paint when I'm there next.


I topped the reservoir back up and then re-bled the brakes. Only did the front as I was checking for bubbles. Thankfully none came through, so hopefully got away with it.


How well does it brake now? Awful!!

It requires a good half pedal of pushing before they properly bite. Full travel does stop the car but doesn't lock the wheels. Feel worse than when I started all this! Oh and it squeals now. Something I can't stand.


I think the problems are several reasons. First when I adjusted the rears, I backed it off from fully tight till they didn't run at all when spinning. I think this was too far? I guess they will rub a tad until they bed in properly. Secondly I assume that stuff on the back of the pads was supposed to be something to stop squealing?? I thought the grease stuff is supposed to stop it too though? The stuff I put on was Textar Ceratec, so not complete crap.


For now, it got driven up to the garage and put away. This got bought back down to replace it.




Annoyingly the paint got a load of crap on it. No idea how this got on the car. Luckily it washed off.



The A4 is in for an MOT this week and unfortunately Mrs SiC refuses to drive the BGT. She says she had zero interest in my old cars and doesn't want to drive them. Quite frustrating as I'd like her to give them a go. As the Boxster is modern, she doesn't mind driving that at all. In-fact she quite likes driving that a lot. Like me, she especially likes convertibles. I don't think she ever really forgave me selling her MX5 MK3 she had but then it did paid the fees when we bought our house.


Off to the Cotswolds tomorrow. I had hoped to take the BGT, but those brakes need readjusting as they aren't safe at the moment. But as I've spent most of the weekend fiddling with cars, I don't have any time really tomorrow to sort them. Plus I hurt all over from crawling around the car and I don't think I could manage another day.




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A  half pedal push before you get any braking action tells me that the you likely have some air in the system still. That's definitely not normal, although I've driven MGs with brakes like that. It always scares me, esp. as I'm use to the pedal being rock hard once I take up the slack in the linkage. Check it again in a couple of days-look at the M/C first and top it up if needed, and then try the brakes again after a couple of slow pumps-the brakes do sometimes bleed themselves if left alone for a day or two.

I'd guess that you probably do have your rear brakes adjusted too loose, and while this can lead to SOME loss of pedal feeling it won't cause what you've described. For one thing, the volume of fluid in the rear cylinders is tiny compared to that in the front calipers(I drove a Mogie a while back that Midget front disks, and with the pedal on the floor it felt like you weren't accomplishing anything-I suspect it was because the Mogie M/C just doesn't move enough fluid for disks). For another, the rear brakes have only a small contribution to the overall stopping power of the car-I think it's only about 20% on the B as designed(that's also why I'm not a fan of rear disk conversions). In any case, when adjusting the brakes I remove the wheel and go click-by-click until the drum locks. I then back off two clicks(1/2 turn). On my car, there's usually a faint amount of scraping that I can hear more than I can feel, but it will go away in a mile or less. I will caution to not adjust the brakes with the wheel on-I did that one time while the car was up in the air for something else, and had it die for an unrelated issue while out driving it. I can normally push the car by myself on flat ground, but on that occasion I was pushing it along with the friend who was helping me and a police officer who stopped to help, and we were all sweating and grunting for the 1/4 mile or so to get it to a parking lot. Once back to my friend's garage, I backed the adjuster off two more clicks, and everything was fine.

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