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1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter

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Barums are £39 each on tyreleader if you decide to go for those, or Falken Sinceras for £43.

 

The Vredestein Classics look the part, but not sure they're worth the £200 extra over the Barums.

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Barums are £39 each on tyreleader if you decide to go for those, or Falken Sinceras for £43.

 

The Vredestein Classics look the part, but not sure they're worth the £200 extra over the Barums.

Thats a good price for the Barums. Also its is a very good point about price. The price difference between the Vredestein and Barum is enough to be able to buy new leaf springs and front bushes. I want to do that anyway, but spending less on tyres would allow more to be done quicker. Helpful given we're coming up to the end of summer now.

 

I suppose the question is, would I notice any difference (real world) between the Barum and Vredestein? Looks and classic tread shape aren't terribly important for me. I don't mind spending more if they are a lot better. It'd annoy me spending out for tyres and then buying some more in 6-12 months time when I find they're not that good.

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I'd have thought mid-range Barums should be fine for the miles and usage you'll be doing.  Certainly better than what's on there at the moment!

 

It's easy to get tied in knots over tyre choice.  I'm not massively fussy but will buy based on whether it's a brand I've heard of, wet grip ability, tempered by a reasonable price.

 

Saying all that, I'm still running 15-20 year old NOS tyres on the Metro so I need to pull my finger out and sort it.

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Just messaged my Slovakian mate who is very much a tyre snob too and he runs Barums Bravuris on his car. Hence he gave his recommendation for Barum too.

 

So just ordered. £156.40 for any 4 tyres is pretty good value to be honest. I've now just got to find a garage prepared to fit them. :?

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Wire wheels were a deal breaker for me, keeping clean, balancing and spoke repair put me totally off. They also have a centre nut mounting that is part of the axle, so changing to standard 4 nuts/studs is a bigish job. I did see though you can get minilites that take the centre hub nut though.

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Started my to-do list this morning. It's a bit long!

 

Replace tyres

Replace flat rear springs

Replace rear spring bushes

Replace sagging front springs

Replace front suspension bushes

Paint bottom of front wings (to protect)

Waxoyl/protect the bottom

Clean & Wax topside of car to protect

Replace tailgate rubber seal

Fix slow indicators (probably flasher as hazard work fine)

Fit battery into a battery box

Improve battery earth connection

Check and maybe replace engine earths

Fix left hand wiper hitting the windscreen trim

Replace wiper blades

Fix speed 2 not working on wipers

Put headlight circuits onto relay

Replace transmission and overdrive oil

Replace rear diff oil

Buy new keys/replace door+boot locks to match

Fix seatback foam

Fix dash brightness rheostat

Fix radio control panel/buttons

Increase idle when warmed/no load

Replace fuel pump with solid state/electronic one

Check & Renew rubber fuel lines.

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Started my to-do list this morning. It's a bit long!

Replace tyres

Replace flat rear springs

Replace rear spring bushes

Replace sagging front springs

Replace front suspension bushes

Paint bottom of front wings (to protect)

Waxoyl/protect the bottom

Clean & Wax topside of car to protect

Replace tailgate rubber seal

Fix slow indicators (probably flasher as hazard work fine)

Fit battery into a battery box

Improve battery earth connection

Check and maybe replace engine earths

Fix left hand wiper hitting the windscreen trim

Replace wiper blades

Fix speed 2 not working on wipers

Put headlight circuits onto relay

Replace transmission and overdrive oil

Replace rear diff oil

Buy new keys/replace door+boot locks to match

Fix seatback foam

Fix dash brightness rheostat

Fix radio control panel/buttons

Increase idle when warmed/no load

Replace fuel pump with solid state/electronic one

Check & Renew rubber fuel lines.

It's not hard to see the appeal* of ToMM©, a year ago :)

 

*OK... £700 for dampers - but done and gone!

 

 

TS

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Well bought, great colour and bestest wheels; can I ask what it set you back?

£3500

 

Was up for £3750 but managed to wangle a bit off. Probably should have got a bit more off, as end of season but apart from the pressure from here to get something, I knew that it was generally a good one and didn't want to miss out again.

 

It's not perfect, but then it's a 1/2th the price of a near perfect one. But even that probably is only perfect in the paint and body department, not the often neglected suspension department. The body on this, from what I've managed to see looks in very good nick and patch free. Even the door chrome lines up with the body. I suspect the sills have never been welded.

 

The paint is reasonable too. Some areas have been touched up and very obviously noticeable from the different colours. Biggest bit is the offside wing around the light area. Not sure if it's had a respray or if original paint. If respray then it would have been a good while back when it was done - better quality (non eco friendly) paint. Might get the different colour touch-up patches done in the future if it proves reliable and doesn't disgrace herself at the next MOT.

 

I have stuck a bit of bent wire up the sill drain holes and you can drum the inner sill metal. No rust chunks fall out either! Only thing I haven't looked under is the door jam kick plates. Completely forgot to look under before I bought. Hoping they'll be alright! Should be given the rest is pretty straight.

 

Probably get my local, friendly garage to have a good look over too so I know of anything in advanced that will need attention. Also put my mind at rest that I haven't bought a dud/missed stuff.

 

Dying to go out in it, but holding off until I've replaced the perished death rings (20-30yr old Pirellis). Also need to sort the Smart out and sell it. It's in the way to being able to easily get it on and off the drive.

 

In other news, I've asked a local builder for a quote on a car port. Not quite as good as a garage but should keep most of the elements off and my drive is pretty narrow and enclosed between two houses anyway.

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Mine probably needed most of the things on your list........

I took the barrels out of the locks and filed them down so 1 key fitted them all.

Sorted!

For the price of a car port you could almost buy another car.

Wouldn't do for us all to be alike.

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If your neighbour has the gravel strip/wooden gate/dark wood fence - up to your garage - then a full length carport [spindle legs 'your side' of drive edge] should do very nicely ;)

 

TS

This is exactly what I'm thinking. Neighbours fence will act as a handy weather shield too.

 

Not sure if your saw it in the Stupid questions thread, but what is your ToMM?

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This is exactly what I'm thinking. Neighbours fence will act as a handy weather shield too.

Not sure if your saw it in the Stupid questions thread, but what is your ToMM?

Ha Ha .... 'Toyota of Much Mintyness' © copyrighted

 

35390573544_8c7b61df76_c.jpg

 

&.... IT IS ;)

 

 

TS

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3500 is a very good price going by your pics. A carport will do wonders for it long term, as well as keeping the rain off it'll stop the sun damaging it too.

Be worth speccing it to have a frame at the front capable of taking a garage door, you'll essentially have a very well ventilated garage then.

 

Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

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Started my to-do list this morning. It's a bit long!

Replace tyres

Replace flat rear springs

Replace rear spring bushes

Replace sagging front springs

Replace front suspension bushes

Paint bottom of front wings (to protect)

Waxoyl/protect the bottom

Clean & Wax topside of car to protect

Replace tailgate rubber seal

Fix slow indicators (probably flasher as hazard work fine)

Fit battery into a battery box

Improve battery earth connection

Check and maybe replace engine earths

Fix left hand wiper hitting the windscreen trim

Replace wiper blades

Fix speed 2 not working on wipers

Put headlight circuits onto relay

Replace transmission and overdrive oil

Replace rear diff oil

Buy new keys/replace door+boot locks to match

Fix seatback foam

Fix dash brightness rheostat

Fix radio control panel/buttons

Increase idle when warmed/no load

Replace fuel pump with solid state/electronic one

Check & Renew rubber fuel lines.

SELL TO CHEEZEY

 

I've updated the list.

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Guest Hooli

Do the indicators speed up with revs?

 

My old Midget had indicators that'd stop flashing if the idle was low enough, pick it up to 1k or so & they worked fine.

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Guest Hooli

Fixing the idle speed will probably do it.

 

If memory serves the old fashioned flashers had a bi-metallic strip in to control the flash. It heats up in use, bends & turns the lights off, cools down & they come back on - repeat etc At low voltages (ie low idle) they don't get hot enough to bend so the lights never flash. No, I don't know why the hazards are never affected either, mine was the same.

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