Exiled_Tat_Gatherer Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 1. One thing I've noticed since owning this, everytime someone asks me about what classic car I have, I apologise and make excuses ...... 2. Sticking out of the black plastic mount is two metal locating tabs. I really don't know why they're standing proud of the mount but it means that if the bulb is fully pushed it, they contact. As (lucky or by design) the metal outside of bulb holder is the alternator field coil connection, so it's that what shorts to ground and not the ignition live. This lead the field coils unable to start up and thus not charge. The bulb lit because the casing became the ground point for the ignition live. 3. To fix, instead of cutting off the tabs (incase they served a purpose I haven't realised for yet), I performed a satanic goat based ritual that eliminated all wards of evil from the arse end of everything in the local postcode....... 1. I was only 18 and 'didn't appraciate what I had' etc.... but found myself doing exactly the same - especially to the older cloth cap wearing 'proper' brigade.2. I read - cunning articifers, magic wands, beelzebubs offspring playing hooky and a load of other tech hubbub that hurt my head - thanks for that.3. Fixed to echo the truth.......... Top work by the way. I'd have probably blown the car up by now with the electirckery lack of knowledge I have. It shames me to admit my old man is/was a sparky and electronic engineer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 One thing I've noticed since owning this, everytime someone asks me about what classic car I have, I apologise and make excuses before I even say. Owning an MGB feels a bit like to me that you are saying that you want a classic car but don't have much idea and inspiration. Also if you speak to anyone who owns classic cars, they usually turn their nose up at MGBs. Which is probably unfair as they are very likable cars. Interestingly, I find that those who don't own a classic car and but interested in them, actually are usually positive about them. This ^^ don't be like that whatever you have there will someone out there to blackcat you. I like the B-GT nice shape, nice sound and easy to fix. Not everyone has to share the love just so long as you do. so Say it out loud "I love my B-GT!, I am a Tiger" etc RobT, danthecapriman, SiC and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Slipping belts when the belts are new etc is a sign of worn pullies. Nice 'fix' with the bulb holder though, don't ya love high quality design? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timolloyd Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 In my experience unless you have something obviously glamarous and high profile (e-type, SL etc) then you always get a bit of the eye rolling towards Moggys, Heralds, Minis, MGs etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cort16 Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Good fix with the bulb holder I’d be on my 7th alternative before I figured that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Battery charged. Fuel filter changed. Old was manky. Engine started. Built up a bit of temperature. Tools packed in the boot. Ready for a spin. Fingers crossed it won't disgrace itself! Banger Kenny, Sigmund Fraud, alf892 and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tickman Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Hopefully a nice crisp winters day drive. SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 I kept locally (20-30mph limits) just in case. Put another 6 miles on the clock without incident! Haven't pushed the handling at all but it's definitely a lot less bouncier and smoother over speed bumps. I replaced the rotor arm in the distributor with one of these red rotors before I set off and that seems to have raised the idle to above 1100rpm. I am going to need to give these carbs a good sorting out very soon. Especially as I have a airflow meter to do it properly. Things noted were that the engine sounds pretty tappy. Doesn't sound like it's the top end and if I remove the oil cap, it doesn't get louder. I do have a fear its the big ends. But that could be just because I've been generally having trouble with this car and worrying about the worst. Also the engine temperature gauge when running hasn't raised or lowered than around this point. Switching off after a couple of minutes it has raised to the N mark. Not sure if the new cap has changed it and/or fiddling around with the alternator I've disturbed the capillary tube too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Fuel filter changed. Old was manky. Clean as a whistle that. This is manky: DSCF6883.JPG by E Honda, on Flickr DeeJay and Sigmund Fraud 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Clean as a whistle that. This is manky:DSCF6883.JPG by E Honda, on FlickrThat's exactly how my Mercury filters used to look before I put a new tank in it. The old tank was literally dissolving inside and filled with liquid rust and silt which was being pumped up. Mank! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 I'm sure mine will fill up with dirt as soon as I start driving it more. That above in the filter was just from moving on and off the drive. Some I think is underseal where it got scrapped on the pipe fitting as I was fitting the pipe. As she behaved herself I treated it to a wash. I will shamefully admit, the first proper wash since I've owned it. Quite a layer of soily dirt. Looks alright ... From a distance. Christine, puddlethumper, Banger Kenny and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squire_Dawson Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Things noted were that the engine sounds pretty tappy. Doesn't sound like it's the top end and if I remove the oil cap, it doesn't get louder. I do have a fear its the big ends. But that could be just because I've been generally having trouble with this car and worrying about the worst. I wouldn't worry too much unless its a persistent loud noise. Big ends make a heavy knocking sound when they're on their way out, notably at start up and running under light throttle openings. These A and B Series engines can make tapping noises, generally it's just the pushrods acting on the rocker gear and is nothing to worry about. SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 It is pretty loud. It's the loudest/most audible noise coming from the engine. Loud when the engine is started and the oil pressure hasn't risen. That I thought was the tappets though. The sound is more tappy than knocking though. Reading around it does seem that there could be a whole load of things that rattle. From tappets to fan bushes, from carb heat shields to engine mounts. So I guess I shouldn't worry too much just yet. However the problem is, I'm not too used to old cars/knackered engines and so don't know really what different engine problems are from their noise. I have noticed that the engine oil is quite dark and black already. It was supposed to be freshly changed when I got it. However it could be that it's running pretty rich and contaminated it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Are there any easy ways to find where the tapping/knocking is coming from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 A long screwdriver or other similar object. Hold it against your ear & touch the engine in different places, it'll transmit the sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Last time I tried that on an engine, the vibrations gave me a sore ear! Might maybe try getting a cheap automotive stethoscope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Balanced the carbs recently? it'll rattle a lot less once it's running smooth. I'd set the tappets, balance the carbs & then see what it's like. tooSavvy, scdan4 and Sigmund Fraud 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelandeth Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Find someone who knows these engines who's local to you and have them have a listen. They'll be able to tell you if it sounds like something major. How's the oil pressure at idle when up to temperature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squire_Dawson Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Would you say the noise emanates from the top or bottom of the engine? It is hard to say without actually hearing it - could make a youtube video? Find someone who knows these engines who's local to you and have them have a listen. I agree but the trouble is finding someone who knows what they're talking about! Hot idling oil pressure (after at least 7 miles fast running) is a good indication of general engine condition but these modern oil pumps are still capable of maintaining a high pressure despite worn bearings. Provided the valve clearances are properly adjusted and the noise is coming from the top end, it may be worn rocker gear. Generally these engines are very tough and give plenty of advance warning before failure. Provided the oil and filter have been changed every 3-4000 miles, the sump kept full and the coolant changed every 2-3 years, they have an incredibly long life. It is normal for fresh oil to blacken after a few hundred miles in old engines and is nothing to worry about; in fact it makes reading the dipstick easier! DeeJay and SiC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain_70s Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 The oil in my Triumphs turns black within about 15 seconds of being put in the thing, as said it's handy for reading the dip stick! Bottom end knocking will be more pronounced under load and at higher rpm (or at least it is in my Dolly!). Top end rattle isn't exactly uncommon on old pushrod lumps, I guess it depends on what you definition of "bad" and "loud" is. After several years of BL motoring I've decided any odd sound that can be drowned out by the radio isn't a problem worth immediate attention and any sound that doesn't get noticeably worse over the course of a few hundred miles isn't a problem at all...Things I've found that "tap" are exhaust leaks at the manifold/downpipe, rocker gear, alternators, mechanical fans, the speedo drive. Just about anything to be honest! SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Just drive the thing, SiC! She's looking bloody lovely danthecapriman, scdan4, SiC and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busmansholiday Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 One way of sorting out the black oil problem is to fail to put the new oil filter on tightly enough. It takes a hell of a lot of cat litter to soak it up. And if you change the points don't drop the little nut inside the distributor. My mate did that many years ago with an Avenger. He bought a new nut, fitted it then started it. Sheared the drive, I had to remove the sump and sort the mess for him. Enjoy driving her, the Roadster is wrapped up for the winter now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exiled_Tat_Gatherer Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 I feel you'll be chasing 'noises' for eternity with the old B series fella...... From dim distant memory of a teenage learner on engines - I had issues with 1. Timing chain..... slack produced a tick/slap that drove me mad.2. Valve gear - adjusted, springs on central shaft were naffed and a cover off quick spin over showed poor oil feed along the core. Replaced that too3. Pushrods themselves - mine were knackered on the top - actually worn through the hardening (see poor oil feed above) so I was stuck with a full top end rebuild If I were you - I'd balance the carbs, do the timing etc.... and just mash the loud pedal a bit more - the exhaust note on these is just too good not to. Plus point is it'll drown out the tapping too These B series engines were (I think) actually designed to rattle constantly.... ! scdan4 and SiC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 Yeah I think I'll just give it a good tune-up by resetting points, static timing, tappets (do cold or hot?), Carb balance and tune. Then put some fresh oil in there. Should have all been done before I had it, but won't hurt to do it all again. The engine sounds a bit more like a diesel and/or tractor than I was expecting. I didn't expect it to purr but I didn't also expect it to clatter and tap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Can't help with noises, I'm quite deaf.Can be an advantage at times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Tappets are normally cold, the manual will say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain_70s Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Yeah I think I'll just give it a good tune-up by resetting points, static timing, tappets (do cold or hot?), Carb balance and tune. Then put some fresh oil in there. Should have all been done before I had it, but won't hurt to do it all again. The engine sounds a bit more like a diesel and/or tractor than I was expecting. I didn't expect it to purr but I didn't also expect it to clatter and tap! That's my engine, admittedly it's a shagged Triumph 1300 unit and not a B-Series but it's still a 1950s era pushrod lump. It mostly sounds like the engine's major components are trying to make their escape, however it's been like that for the last 5000+ miles. One day I'll rebuild it, one day... That was the 1850's OHV engine, I think the main rattle was the timing chain, still sounds like a diesel at idle... richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 make sure it is not a leaking exhaust manifold gasket Can sound like rattly tappets and obviously will make a noise in time with the engine speed. As shit warms up and expands the leak could well seal up. Big End rattle you will NOT mistake when you hear it, sounds orrible and you can feel it through the floor. more of a bang thud than a rattle. and on over run or cold start up. if the big ends are gone or going it will knock on cold start and then on over run pretty much every time. More so when the engine is hot. Oh and carb balance is a balls ache to do properly, if it is running ok and economy is not bad then I might leave them alone. easy to make it 1,000,000 times worse if you dont understand what to do and "av a fiddle" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 That's my engine, admittedly it's a shagged Triumph 1300 unit and not a B-Series but it's still a 1950s era pushrod lump. It mostly sounds like the engine's major components are trying to make their escape, however it's been like that for the last 5000+ miles. One day I'll rebuild it, one day... That was the 1850's OHV engine, I think the main rattle was the timing chain, still sounds like a diesel at idle... Those rattles dont sound too bad, tis the reason why they put sound deadening inside the bonnet. The 1850 sounds more cam clearances than chain. if it is chain you want to do something about it pronto. the tensioner is down near the bottom or the chain on your "half a stag engine". Get a long long screw driver and listed to the timing chain cover around that area. if quiet, check along the cam cover and you should find the valve or two than needs clearance checking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 oh and invest in one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Engine-Abnormal-Noise-Stethoscope-Hearing-Diagnostic-Tool-Block-Detector-UK/152782036416?hash=item239284ddc0:g:IxcAAOSwhqhaBZLi other suppliers available etc invaluable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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