Jump to content

1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - 6yrs ownership & the end is potentially nigh!


SiC

Recommended Posts

42 minutes ago, SiC said:

Woo passed its MOT! No advisories too. 

I'm hoping that the switch was just a fluke and it has been slowly falling apart for a while. At the moment my lights are driven directly through the switch and no doubt contributes to my lights being like candles. I have a harness to convert to relay switched but yet to put it on - just kept to daytime/city driving in dark for now so not been an issue. 

Usually when I've been to autojumbles there has been boxes full of second hand switches. So if it breaks I can readily get a old replacement. Either way, if I drive it through a relay, a new repro or old original switch won't be too stressed.

I just don't like the tactile feel of the new repro switch gear. Especially the stalks don't click anywhere near as nice. Hence I'll re-crimp the broken wire on my original stalk rather than replacing with new. 

Other option will be to swap with the nearly new original Lucas switch that is used on the map reading light. I think the first owner must have fitted that back in the day, so will be an original rocker switch that has barely any current switched through it. 

Congrats on the MoT!

 

I'm re-using the switches (on/off and hi-lo) on the Chief but replaced the wires and took everything to bits to clean it out. The switch in mine is made from weapons-grade materials and designed well so it stays but I would strongly recommend heavy gauge wire to a relay block and use the original wiring to drive the relays. The wire on mine used a single 16-AWG wire to feed both front headlights, meaning they weren't bad-bad but bumping that up to 10-AWG made a significant difference over the length of the wire (from source to bulb there's about 12' of wire).

Those lamps aren't as good as modern lights but when they have a decent voltage behind them and can draw full current through the wire, they really aren't bad at all. Even down to 10V at the bulb makes them decidedly below average.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to close this thread off this year, the old girl has been put back away in storage. I still need to go back to disconnect the battery (or just remove fuse 4 to cut the radio power) and put drip trays underneath.

d7d4df28a34da76bf0f97b6c216001a4.jpg

Incidentally that's a good picture that shows how useless those lights are.

 

bff45ad76fb407644cb83c68738afbb8.jpg

 

That is probably it now until Spring next year. Upon which she'll need an oil change and grease points seeing to. I might even get the original rostyles properly refurbed and tyres swapped on over the winter (she's on a second hand cheap set of rostyles). Also maybe get the light wiring seeing to.

 

She does need some bodywork doing, most notably under the drivers wing on the trumpet. Also the offside rear suspension mount is looking a bit on the crusty side too. Depending how far I get and go with the Dolly bodywork, the BGT maybe pulled out and worked on this winter. Providing we actually ever end up moving.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...



That is probably it now until Spring next year.


Well that was a lie. I suppose I did say probably...
7007d10cd598c2996b50b59d5cd1d60b.jpg

Laguna was boring me a bit too much, so it has gone back into storage and I'll SORN it. I'm going to take it to the Haynes Breakfast Meet on this Sunday (5th January 2020). Anyone else going?

First thing first was to get her out...


Then filled her up and drove back 20 miles home from storage. Touch wood she's still running really well. Even with one of the carbs only having half the quantity of dashpot oil in it. I must have undone it to check before putting it away but forgot to screw the lid back on properly before I drove to the storage.

Right now though she could do with an oil+filter change, a wash and the headlight wiring upgrading. Ideally the grease points if I get a chance too. Might get one of those nifty air powered jobbies for that though.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

Might be up for the Haynes thing, I’d need to bring the Boxster I guess.... anyone else about, we could convoy from Brizzle?

Don't have to bring anything special to Haynes. People turn up in all sorts, from Picassos to DB5s.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fan bloody tastic.

1386ee0b3a04d9efa732a08d93122ff8.jpg

 

Cut straight out suddenly. Literally just had a service at the local classic friendly garage.

 

I've ripped out the spark assistor and it got it going again for about a mile. Then cut out again suddenly. Swapped to a spare coil and still no-go. That's the limit I'm prepared to do on the M5 hard shoulder at approaching rush hour.

 

Called recovery. RAC reckon it'll be 60-90 minutes. Lovely.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh dear, dear. Points closed up ?
Looks like M5 north J20?
 
Close. In between the entrance and exit of J19 M5 Portishead.

Not sure. Possibly points. Filter is full of fuel. Feels like ignition related rather than fuel.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will no doubt be on You Tube shortly.
Here is an offer....... swap it for a gorgeous 2 door Toledo project
Conserving phone battery right now! Could wander to the services as it's only at the top. They reckon they'll be within the hour though, so just gonna wait for now. Probably not bring a flat bed and I think towing an overdrive car at motorway speeds can bugger the overdrive?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spoke to the garage and it's getting dumped there for them to sort tomorrow morning. I've done over a thousand miles fault free. I then let someone else touch it and it then breaks only 15 miles later! Hopefully something simple but they touched it last, so will know what they have touched and not touched.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, SiC said:

Spoke to the garage and it's getting dumped there for them to sort tomorrow morning. I've done over a thousand miles fault free. I then let someone else touch it and it then breaks only 15 miles later! Hopefully something simple but they touched it last, so will know what they have touched and not touched.

see you had to mess- if it aint broke dont try to fix it! ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I broke down there but going the other way.

Sounds like something has come adrift, hopefully a quick fix. And yes, I've said it and I'll say it again that those headlights are actually pretty good when they've got full current available to them, a relayed harness will stop the switch from being so difficult.

GLWTR

--Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stuck a spare plug in on block and turning over gave a spark. Points look in decent condition and not burnt to pieces. Fuel filter is full. Could be a blockage to the carbs after the fuel filter I guess. However it is new pipe and genuine Gates ethanol resistant (from Moss).

Recovered and dumped at the garage now. Will nip back to take the battery out and put it on charge. Then first thing tomorrow I'll go down for them to have a look.
92b666d733cf402590037e9a5083b184.jpg

Certainly worse places to break down than next to the service station.
42514f5578c33e88258de4bc1da49252.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's done 1k miles with that pipework and filter. Filter is clear, clean and full of fuel. Tank is new, hoses are new and metal pipework is new. Fuel pump is electronic and new - must have worked enough to get fuel up to the filter and keep it full.

Floats are original but it doesn't appear to be overflowing. If they were stuck closed, I'd be surprised to have both stuck closed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also should add that this setup has done a good thousand miles on it reliably. Only after I let the garage touch it to service it, did it break! They did go for a test drive and found no issues. Actually remarked at how good fine fettle it runs and drives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another data point is that no combination of throttle position or choke position got it even to splutter when turning over. I still suspect something ignition related. Or a blocked carb - both carbs too. I've had this engine running and driving with one spark lead disconnected once. I reckon it would still try firing if only 2 cylinders are alive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something else. When I got it going the second time, I accelerated hard onto the motorway. Then got up to 70mph and climbed up the Avonmouth bridge at 60-70mph, which is quite steep. Didn't feel like it was wheezing up it.

This bit here:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/JAJDRZYhgtzfAQJUA

Then going down the hill I was on part throttle. Felt a slight "bump" again and then accelerator did nothing. Knocked it out of gear and revs dropped to zero.

While thinking about it, I am 99% certain the revs were reading when it lost power. Didn't think much of that as driving at the time. However that does mean that the points must be switching away to some degree.

My current thoughts are the rotor arm. Cap and centre pin looked ok. Rotor arm nothing obviously a miss as much you can tell looking down there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...