Project 1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - After nearly 7yrs, The End (for me)

[busmansholiday]

The problem selecting gears isn't unusual. Mine (all three of them over the years) have been the same. I still have to swear, get into second then swear again to get it into reverse. Now I just accept it as par for the course.

[purplebargeken]

£75, not bad. 

Sprint tandem/dual reconditioned master cylinder.......... £249 hahahahahahahaha. Hahahahahahaha. 

[SiC]

Left work on time today so I can get the master cylinder fitted.



Pain in the arse to manoeuvre in. This way it hits the back pipes.



Nose first with the pushrod zip tied in was the trick.


Fiddly banjo bolt with two washers. Actually managed it reasonably easy today.
This is the hole you do it through.



Anyhow it's in. Pretty looking!


Zip tied the slave up to reduce the air space to bleed.


Then used a combination of a Sealey pump pressure bleeder and an Ezi-bleed cap.


This is the coupling between the two


Worked well. Didn't pump the pressure up too high, so that fitting didn't pop off and spray fluid everywhere. Kept it to just over 10psi.

I'll find out just how well when I start it back up next and go to move it!

This is the V8 master. No idea if the grit was in there or just me being kack handed putting it in the box. Can't remember if I dropped it or not.


Bore doesn't look bad either.



Tempted to fit the decent pads tonight but having a lot of luck sorting the clutch master, I don't want to tempt fate and break/brake the car again! I mean it currently works, except it squeals. Not that I believe in fate... (But I believe in incompetence!)

[SiC]

The problem selecting gears isn't unusual. Mine (all three of them over the years) have been the same. I still have to swear, get into second then swear again to get it into reverse. Now I just accept it as par for the course.

Yeah these boxes certainly are no MX5 gearbox! However I don't want to make things even worse.

£75, not bad. 
Sprint tandem/dual reconditioned master cylinder.......... £249 hahahahahahahaha. Hahahahahahaha. 

Ouch! A brand new tandem master of a decent brand for the rubber bumper MGB is around £130.

[SiC]

I took it for a spin this evening. Got home ok and no fluid loss, so I guess that is a success?

Brakes still do stop the car but in the dry they don't quite lock the wheels, unless I give it fully 100% travel. They did feel that the travel increased a bit after driving a couple of miles but hopefully that's just because the shoes have bedded in a bit or more simply that with the servo, it's hard to exactly judge feel. Hopefully my local garage will get them all ship shape. 

Pads also may still need time to bed in before they properly bite well too I guess? Really think I'll need to change them to the decent set as the squeal is really quite bad. Mrs SiC hates squealing brakes and she doesn't like the car at the best of times anyway!

[purplebargeken]

May as well change the pads as not expensive.

[SiC]

Yeah, especially as I've bought them already. Just tempted not to fit them before this weekend though and end up with a broken car again!

[Zelandeth]

Pads are something I need to do on the van.  Simply because they squeal like hell anywhere between 1 and 40mph...so town driving it bloody torture and rapidly becomes a game in forward planning and engine braking.  Though having said that, made it both ways through the middle of Buckingham this afternoon without having to touch the brake pedal...so I guess I'm reasonably good at the forward planning bit!

I have greased the back of the existing ones, but I think just being ancient commercial grade friction material has a lot to do with it.  I've already got a new set in stock anyway.

That master cylinder location does look like the sort of thing which makes a job that should be 2/10 on the difficulty scale feel a solid 9.5 just because it makes everything so bloody fiddly.

[SiC]

Just brought it back from the garage. The chap who worked on it usually does MOTs as he hates working on modern cars. He said he pulled the rear brakes all apart, cleaned it up and put them together. Not sure if I put it together wrong or more that the guy liked the fact he could work on something he enjoyed! Also replaced that rear stud that had its threads stripped. 

Anyway its all back together and he took it for a test drive. Said that he thought the brakes were very good and ran well. Also said not to touch the tappets - Tapping tappets are happy tappets.  

Obviously all needs to bed in a bit as all new but all properly adjusted now. He didn't get it to squeal (or too deaf nowadays to notice) but it still does with me. Worse at certain pedal positions. Of course if/when they bed in it may help with this too. 

Debating if I should just change the pads over tonight. Pretty low risk job I guess? But with me, who knows what will happen...

Don't want to scupper me taking it down to Shitefest!

[busmansholiday]

Just bloody drive it !

Once you stop panicking about tappet noises, squeaking brakes, oil pressure and just drive it, you'll actually get to enjoy it properly.

When I started driving in the early 70's, all cars made those noises. You just turned up the radio to drown it out. In fact when I drove the MGB I bought in Torquay back north, that's all I used to control the speed.

[SiC]

1 hour ago, busmansholiday said:

Just bloody drive it !

Once you stop panicking about tappet noises, squeaking brakes, oil pressure and just drive it, you'll actually get to enjoy it properly.

When I started driving in the early 70's, all cars made those noises. You just turned up the radio to drown it out. In fact when I drove the MGB I bought in Torquay back north, that's all I used to control the speed.

I know MGB electrics can be a bit dodgy, but using a radio to control the speed is a knew one on me!

I'm not panicking, it's just good to hear a viewpoint from someone who is old enough to not only remember many of these in active use but also worked on them. The brakes are squealing pretty loud though. Loud enough to make pedestrians cringe in pain.

Filled up earlier. This time I looked down the spout rather than relying on the clunking. Got probably another 6 or 7 litres in. Gauge now does read full. Previously when I've relied on the second clunk, the fuel gauge has only got to three quarters. I think it's relatively accurate now. Not that I fully trust it. 

[Zelandeth]

If the pads are relatively new it might just require a bit of time to bed in.  Pads I put in the Lada squeaked like mad for about a week, but suddenly stopped one afternoon and never did it again...

Nothing like a second opinion from someone in the know to give you a bit of confidence.

[SiC]

3 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

If the pads are relatively new it might just require a bit of time to bed in.  Pads I put in the Lada squeaked like mad for about a week, but suddenly stopped one afternoon and never did it again...
Nothing like a second opinion from someone in the know to give you a bit of confidence.

I'd have more confidence in them stopping squealing eventually if I had not scraped all the anti squeal coating off the back of them...!

[somewhatfoolish]

Quote

 

The answer is to change the pads to the new ones; the mingebag answer is to smear a thin layer of epoxy over the back of the old pads, let it set then refit them.

[pauldoubleyou]

I have always wanted one of these, basically as a 'starter' classic. Im not sure i could handle the price that stuff like Cortinas and whatnot command. Loving the colour.

[SiC]

2 hours ago, pauldoubleyou said:

I have always wanted one of these, basically as a 'starter' classic. Im not sure i could handle the price that stuff like Cortinas and whatnot command. Loving the colour.

Now I'm bedding in with the MGB more I'm starting to have a lot more fun. I was having a whale of a time driving around Bristol centre when coming from work last night... 

*BAAARP* *wrestles around corner* *SQUEEEEL*  (not just from the brakes!) *CHUG* *CHUG* *CHUG* *BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARP*

All while going quite slow really!

I think they're great. The criticism and stigma some put on them are really unfair. Interestingly, when speaking around, those that berate the MGB are often so called "classic car" fans. Usually spouting outdated views on how they're all so common (they are not so much now), don't drive well (but then nothing from the 70s really does compared to anything modern), slow (they weren't that slow at the time against other cars) and boring (while they probably drive a Golf TDI). Often if you ask them, those classic car fans don't even own a classic car either!

Yes there is lot of them made, but that is because they were popular. Popular because they were pretty good! I have found that the average person on the street always seems to have nice words to say about them! Except everyone always berates the poor old rubber bumper models. Shame as I think with the Leyland Special Tuning front splitter, they look pretty smart.

Because of their popularity and support, parts are readily available, cheap and plenty of knowledge on the cars. Pretty much anything can be picked up and shipped next day to you in the UK. Yes there are much better exotic classic cars and rarer classic cars, but both things make them harder to run. If you want a classic to actually drive and use, the more popular ones are really a lot less of a headache. 

Can definitely say I'd be bored with a Cortina or similar too!

MGBs have risen in price over the last few years (even since I bought mine) but they're still realistically affordable. Buy at the right time (mid summer season or mid winter) and some bargains can be had.

[Scruffy Bodger]

I take it there are no anti-squeal shims available for these then? I remember the difference fitting some of those to my Cortina years ago and it was extraordinary how much a bit of tin effected the noise produced.

[SiC]

1 hour ago, Scruffy Bodger said:

I take it there are no anti-squeal shims available for these then? I remember the difference fitting some of those to my Cortina years ago and it was extraordinary how much a bit of tin effected the noise produced.

Not off the shelf. I believe you can get aftermarket pads from the pad manufacturers that do the same thing. The new pads I bought from Moss and should fit have the shims though. 

[LightBulbFun]

2 hours ago, SiC said:

Now I'm bedding in with the MGB more I'm starting to have a lot more fun. I was having a whale of a time driving around Bristol centre when coming from work last night... 

*BAAARP* *wrestles around corner* *SQUEEEEL*  (not just from the brakes!) *CHUG* *CHUG* *CHUG* *BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARP*

All while going quite slow really!

I think they're great. The criticism and stigma some put on them are really unfair. Interestingly, when speaking around, those that berate the MGB are often so called "classic car" fans. Usually spouting outdated views on how they're all so common (they are not so much now), don't drive well (but then nothing from the 70s really does compared to anything modern), slow (they weren't that slow at the time against other cars) and boring (while they probably drive a Golf TDI). Often if you ask them, those classic car fans don't even own a classic car either!

Yes there is lot of them made, but that is because they were popular. Popular because they were pretty good! I have found that the average person on the street always seems to have nice words to say about them! Except everyone always berates the poor old rubber bumper models. Shame as I think with the Leyland Special Tuning front splitter, they look pretty smart.

Because of their popularity and support, parts are readily available, cheap and plenty of knowledge on the cars. Pretty much anything can be picked up and shipped next day to you in the UK. Yes there are much better exotic classic cars and rarer classic cars, but both things make them harder to run. If you want a classic to actually drive and use, the more popular ones are really a lot less of a headache. 

Can definitely say I'd be bored with a Cortina or similar too!

MGBs have risen in price over the last few years (even since I bought mine) but they're still realistically affordable. Buy at the right time (mid summer season or mid winter) and some bargains can be had.

very happy to hear your finally having some fun with the MGB and gelling with it after a few years of being scared of driving it

I look forward to seeing your future adventures with it on the open road  

[SiC]

Anxiety is not being scared

[LightBulbFun]

1 minute ago, SiC said:

Anxiety is not being scared

thats a better word yeah

was not quite sure what to put there my bad sorry!

[SiC]

New new pads fitted. Hopefully will solve the squealing.


You can see the shims glued on the back here.


Piece of piss to change pads on here. Why do cars now have sliders and what not? These fixed calipers seem a much more sensible design.

Basically remove the two split pins, pull pads and springs out (well they usually fall out), push pistons back in, lube the back of the new pads and put all back in.


I also removed a shim from the passenger side wheel to free it up. Here it is before.

To be honest it doesn't seem to free spin much more after removing that shim either! Maybe the bearings aren't as resistance free as they used to be? Or the old grease causes more friction. Good enough to not fiddle any more though.

Oh and yesterday I replaced the foam gaskets on the rear lights. Touch wood it seems to have mostly sorted the water in boot problem. Still get a bit but it's a lot more reduced.




Old gasket was heavily compressed in areas. This was the top bit.


Took for a test drive and it all seems to work thankfully!

Mileage has just ticked over another hundreds unit. I think just under 150miles since taking it out of the garage. 200 miles ish in probably 20 years?
I don't want to add up my current £ per mile since getting it out of the garage again just yet...


Off to shitefest tomorrow. Will take the more interesting back roads, so a 2.5hrs rather than 1.5hr journey. All being well, that will be around 180 mile round trip if no other further jaunts. About 4 hours in the saddle.

[purplebargeken]

Look at you! All MGB fetttly! 

Good call on changing the pads and the foam gaskets. 

Have a bloody good run to Shitefest mate. Keep us updated.

I'd love an MGB in all honesty, just 'cos I'm a bit Triumph addicted doesn't mean I can like a B

[dozeydustman]

10 hours ago, SiC said:

Piece of piss to change pads on here. Why do cars now have sliders and what not? These fixed calipers seem a much more sensible design.

Basically remove the two split pins, pull pads and springs out (well they usually fall out), push pistons back in, lube the back of the new pads and put all back in.


 

Because, like everything since 1989, has been made to a price not a standard. Fixed callipers are an absolute joy to work on  - two pins or clips and the pads pull out - and are a lot more efficient at putting down stopping power. 

Every time I have to do brakes on either of my cars there are so many things to make sure haven't rusted up or seized, use about 3 times the amount of copper grease. The benefit of  sliding/floating/swinging callipers is they are more tolerant if you have an out of round or warped disc ie less steering vibration, and less likely to suffer squeal or pad rattle.

[Zelandeth]

Best car I ever had for ease of a pad change was a late Saab Classic 900.

Two pins to pull out, then the whole caliper piston assembly hinged up.  Pad change would honestly take ten minutes (five of which is taking off/refitting the wheel).

The early ones with the front handbrake on the other hand were an absolute pig.

[Kiltox]

12 hours ago, dozeydustman said:

and are a lot more efficient at putting down stopping power. 

Citation needed

Modern brakes are leagues ahead in terms of performance surely?

[SiC]

21 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

Citation needed
Modern brakes are leagues ahead in terms of performance surely?

 

I don't know if it is better or not, but our Boxsters appear to have fixed calipers. I also massive love the fact that Porsche put the brake bleeder on the outside too, so you don't even need to take the wheel off to bleed the brakes.

[dozeydustman]

23 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

Citation needed

Modern brakes are leagues ahead in terms of performance surely?

With modern friction materials pads and metallurgic sciences for the consumables of a braking system, a modern fixed calliper system will still outperform a modern sliding/floating calliper system.

If you look at heavy vehicles, high performance vehicles or motorcycles where braking performance is just as, if not more, important than acceleration, they nearly all have fixed callipers. Braking force can be applied more evenly to the disc, the only parts that can jam or stick are the pistons themselves. Pads and discs also wear much more evenly.

For the average car driven by the average Joe, and where price, compactness and weight saving are more important factors, a sliding or floating calliper system suffice for most applications, but they require a little more in terms of maintenance requiring a bit of lube on the many more moving parts they have, as a result are more likely to suffer from seized or corroded parts when rubber boots perish or split.

[SiC]

Just got back from shitefest in this and it performed almost* faultlessly.

 

Started off

 

Packed plenty of tools. Mostly if I didn't, sods law dictates I'd needed them.

 

Took the back roads on the way there. Nearly three hours of driving is very tiring in the MGB. Didn't help with constantly getting stuck behind people doing 30-40mph in 60mph limits. Seems to be a thing happening more often. The BGT just has enough power to perform a reasonably easy overtake.

 

Next to Mr6C DS at Shitefest. The cars are similar ages to each other, but the MGB does feel a bit more modern to me in comparison. Such a different driving experience between the two!

 

When I got there, I noticed that the oil was on the minimum level. Topped it to around three quarters. Richardthestag suggested that it could have been that my dipstick is jumping around as it was very loose in the holder. He wrapped some insulation tape around the top of it to make a slightly better seal.

 

Checking twice on the way back on the services showed no drop in the oil.

 

Back home now. Checking the oil level again it now reads on the max marker?! I can only guess it's the slight drop at the front of the drive that has done it. Wouldn't have thought it would be sufficient to have made a difference but I guess it must have done.

 

I'll get a new rubber seal for the dipstick from Moss during the week. Hopefully will stop any risk of it leaking out from there and should improve/prevent crankcase air leaking.

 

I think it worked out around 165-170 miles or so today. By far the longest I've taken it on one journey and one day. Probably the longest and furthest it's ever driven in nearly two decades!

 

 

 

 

 

* Apart from the oil level, the only other issue was my gear knob coming loose. Surprisingly annoying problem driving it like that!

 

 

[dozeydustman]

Bit of plumber's ptfe tape around the thread on the gearstick will sort you knob falling off.