Project 1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - After nearly 7yrs, The End (for me)

[PhilA]

Oil pressure looks fine for warm. When it sits on 0 at cold idle and only rises when you rev it, time to look at the bearings. Until then I would be happy with that reading.

Looks like it's doing better for being driven a bit. Nice to see a photograph of it not in the garage or on the driveway.

Tools are merely prudent. I used to carry an entire toolbox about with me. I do care spare hose with me and a small selection of clips and stuff.

Phil

[BorniteIdentity]

Sometimes a raft of gauges actually increases the anxiety. In the Mini you haven’t a scooby doo what’s happening. Overheating? Guess by steam. Oil? Is the car rattling like a biscuit tin and is the orange light (with the dodgy bulb) on. 

Keep driving until something implodes, explodes or falls off. Then evaluate as to whether stopping is necessary. 

[PhilA]

Agreed. I managed about 4 miles at 60mph (2700 RPM) on a Rover V8 running on 7, complete with a missing head bolt with no coolant- small hose burst off and emptied the engine without steaming up.

I noticed a haze of smoke begin to trail behind me, so that's the point I pulled over to stop. The engine was so hot it had stopped siezed by about 20 mph and was no longer being turned by the gearbox. It was so hot the oil was boiling.

I let it cool at the side of the Avonmouth bridge. After 45 minutes it was still hot enough to cromp CROMPCROMP BOMPH FOOMPH BOMPH the new coolant into steam. Checked the oil wasn't totally caramelized, tried it on the starter and it span, fired up on 3 and cleared to 4... Stuck it in gear and took off. By the top of the bridge it was running on 6. By Gloucester it was back to all 7 again. Watched the football, did barbeque, filled the coolant back up and drove home without any problems.

That's all aluminum- if BMC can manage that, the B will carry on until the cows come home.

 

You worry too much

 

Phil

[plasticvandan]

Only way to tune an su is with your ear or a length of hose,or both. 

[SiC]

2 hours ago, stripped fred said:

I think SIC prefers tinkering to driving. I suppose that is part of the fun of an old car.

I like driving, just not so much around here! Busy, manic, each to their own, stressful and not particularly exciting roads.

41 minutes ago, captain_70s said:

The stash of tools in the boot isn't all that dissimilar to what I used to cart around in the 1300 when it was the daily. 

 

23 minutes ago, PhilA said:

Tools are merely prudent. I used to carry an entire toolbox about with me. I do care spare hose with me and a small selection of clips and stuff.

Maybe this is where I've been going wrong. Never usually bring tools out with me at all. If I do, at least with a problem I have some hope of getting it going again if I have some tools and a small collection of spares. 

[captain_70s]

Constantly rattling around the boot of the Dolly I had:

Imperial spanners and a socket set.
A variety of screwdrivers, plies and mole grips.
Breaker bar for wheel nuts and the factory scissor jack.
Spare plugs, rotor arm, dizzy cap, starter solenoid and coil.
A variety of jubilee clips, tie wraps, nuts, bolts and fasteners.
Coolant, water, engine oil, 3-in-1 oil, WD-40, Easy Start and DOT 4 Brake/Clutch fluid.
Petrol can.

Possibly a bit overkill but if you couldn't fix a problem with that lot at the side of the road within 15 mins you were probably fairly fucked anyway. Didn't have recovery at the time so it could be a long walk if I couldn't bodge it going again. Even when I snapped a rocker arm I drove home on 3 cylinders at 35mph, also completed a trip with a full blown HGF and blocked out the street with steam from the exhaust.

[Isaac Hunt]

On 5/8/2019 at 11:56 AM, SiC said:

I've had a quick look previously and I suspect that one of the lines to the front is broken. Tempted to fix as it's a bit retro, but it's nothing special and it's cheap + easy to buy a working one. 

No I'm definitely considering it. There is a classic friendly garage literally around the corner I will probably give it to. I wanted to put a few more miles on it first to give it a bit of a shake down + blow out the cobwebs, but it may make sense to just let them sort it first. Then once it's had a few good runs, maybe send it back for some tweaking. 

I did get it pretty close before (going by the plugs) but it's all been adjusted since with new throttle discs and the linkages disturbed. I think I'll get a Gunson Colortune and give it one more go first to get it a bit closer.

SU Carbs are quite easy to set up.  First have a good look at the jets to see if there is any ovalitty, replace if there is.  Check the needles for correct code. Set both jets flush to the bridge and then take them 1.5 turns down.  Adjust down or up trying to keep them at the same height.  Early carbs had a lifting pin to lift the piston, if engine speed increases and stays high, it is a bit rich, if it dies it is a bit weak.  Revs should rise momentarily then falter a bit.  A Gunsons carb balancer is useful

[plasticvandan]

Always carry tools,fluids and some sensible spares,if you carry them,Sod's law dictates you won't need them. When Relianting I changed the distributor on the hard shoulder of the M1, without leaving the car! On my way to a rall and my electronic ignition unit died at 70mph in the outside lane,passing two Lorries. Got back across,and I had a spare dizzy with points in the boot just in case. Folded the seat down,grabbed a screwdriver and a 7/16 spanner,undid the footwell access panel,one bolt and the extremely hot dizzy was out,new one in and set by eye,panel back in,start up and go,without getting out!

[SiC]

More MGB GT fettling day today. Just an oil change though, so not a hard job. Did take over an hour as I went for a drive to warm things up first and then left it for half hour to properly drain out.



Appears oil is coming out of the clutch area. I assume this is the rear main seal leaking?



This is the oil I put in. Moss recommend this over their 20w-50 it your engine is a bit worn. Supposed to help give a couple of extra PSI.


Put a big filter on. This is supposed to be for big American stuff. Took an awful lot of oil to fill.


First impressions when cold are good! This is back to the pressure readings I got when I first had it and before the first oil change I did. Note to self, don't buy Granville 20w-50 again.


Then went for a drive.

Oil pressure at 3k when hot.


Oil pressure at idle when hot (less important tbh).


Checked the brakes when I got back with the IR thermometer. Front discs were around ~160c, rear drums were 95c on drivers side, 60c on passenger side. To me that seems way, way too hot? Possibly brakes sticking?

A short video is uploading of a bit of the drive right now, so TBC in an about hour... (Slow interweb upload speeds).

[1970mgb]

Oil pressures look good. I like that filter on the B engine, event though it seems like quite a monstrosity to fit on there(if you pulled the head, you wouldn't be able to fit it in one of the cylinders).

Clean up that oil spot on the side of the transmission and see if it returns. Remember that oil leaking anywhere on the engine tends to end up on low points. A rear main seal leaking that badly I suspect would give a glazed/slipping clutch.

Your fronts sound hot, but then if you were on the brakes a lot it may not be too out of line.

The rear differential would concern me more than the absolute temperature. Be sure both are adjusted correctly, or more particularly that the right is adjusted a click too tight or sticking. It's also entirely too easy to put these back together wrong, so it may be that the left isn't working correctly. Does it track straight when braking? What about when braking only with the hand brake?

[SiC]

Sorry for the shakiness. The phone was mounted on a windscreen phone mount. Only a short video as I ran out of disk space on my phone.

Clanking was my tools flying around in the back and making quite a mess.


Got a new problem. Poor old thing hasn't fully woken up from a 20+ year hibernation. Probably not been driven reasonably spiritedly for even longer if at all!



New temporary support


Luckily the spacer didn't disappear off. Found a suitable replacement nut in my spares box. Not a locknut but a smidge of locktite should help here.

[PhilA]

Sounds fine, that does.

 

Particularly the pack of creaks, rattles, bangs and other noises this brand of cars like to make.

Needs to go out and about more. I'll send you a couple routes to follow that are definitely suited to that car.

 

Phil

[1970mgb]

You have a similar hood prop to mine-the one that came with my car that I've been meaning to get around to fixing for 4 years now . Mine's PVC pipe, which is handy since I can put the bottom in the latch hole, and put the top on the bonnet latch.

BTW, without a prop connected the bonnet can go nearly vertical. The book tells you to remove it when removing the engine/gearbox, but when my friend and I pulled mine we just used a nylon strap over top of the car and hooked on the luggage rack to hold the bonnet up as high as it will go.

I have a set of bonnet struts waiting for installation. I bought them from my friend Rick Ingram, who does business under the name selling them as Pieces of 8. Unfortunately, I've had those for 3 years awaiting installation...

[SiC]

Yeah she's running great now. The rattling/tapping from the engine is substantially reduced. Apart from the brakes maybe needing TLC, I'm way way more happier driving her. I can feel the brakes holding back a bit when driving, which is what makes me think they are possibly sticking a bit. The caliper pistons do have a bit of rust on them which I noticed a while back.

Once the brakes are sorted, I'm almost certain she'll be able to make an appearance at shitefest!

[mrbenn]

Please forgive my language but fucking hell, that engine sounds amazing! Far, far better than the last MG I went in, and that one had no issues that I know of.

[captain_70s]

Sounds sweet!

Jealous of your ability to go for a blat around as all I did with the nice weather today was break my working car...

[SiC]

8 minutes ago, captain_70s said:

Jealous of your ability to go for a blat around as all I did with the nice weather today was break my working car...

To be fair, this drive has been a long time coming!

[SiC]

There is still tapping, the mic on my phone just doesn't pick it up very well. However it's a lot less and I'm sure an alloy cover would pretty much completely muffle any valvetrain noise left. 

[purplebargeken]

You noisy tool lol. Seriously though, that sounds pretty bloody nice mate. Just keep driving the bloody thing!

 

[Noel Tidybeard]

there is only one installation of a B-series that sounds better than an MGMGMGMGBGT - a Maurice Marina TC

 

a twin carb B-series is a most satisfying engine note ?

 

 

p.s. hoofuckingray it moves! lol

[SiC]

Any suggestions on how to remove the wheel? I tried the John Twist method and gave it many good lumps with the hammer but no budging. Also given a vigorous wiggle side to side - no movement either.


I'm thinking maybe putting a harmonic balancer puller across this and bolting it onto the threaded sections on the hub.

[LightBulbFun]

Wait you actually went for a drive?! who are you and what have you done with the real SIC!

well done for manning the fears and going for a nice pootle about  she sounds nice indeed

[The Moog]

Normally you can do the banging either side to get it loose - ensure that you go round the wheel, otherwise a puller will work. 

[PhilA]

That's a job for a puller if it's been tightened on there by Geoff Capes. The steering column is dimpled for one to keep it centered; that's the easiest method, really. If they got the taper correct it'll stick on there solid.

 

 

--Phil

[LightBulbFun]

im not sure if this year of British MGB has it, but its worth being careful when bashing away at the wheel as I know some MGBs have collapsable steering columns

[SiC]

This is the proper service tool that the workshop manual specifies:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311539452832

Pretty sure any old puller tool will do the job, including the one use Chinese cheapies. Something like this one:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F231678494754

[SiC]

6 hours ago, PhilA said:

That's a job for a puller if it's been tightened on there by Geoff Capes. The steering column is dimpled for one to keep it centered; that's the easiest method, really. If they got the taper correct it'll stick on there solid.

 

 

--Phil

I wouldn't be surprised if it's never been removed since it was put on by the factory. 

[1970mgb]

Take heed when you re-install it.

It only just barely needs to be snugged down. As long as the nut is on a couple of turns, the wheel won't come off while you're driving. With the wheel back on but not the center cover, I suggest going for a vigorous drive with the correct wrench in the passenger seat. If you feel the wheel "pop" while driving, grab the wrench as soon as it's safe to do so and snug the nut up a bit more-even 1/8 turn is probably enough. Keep driving and if you feel another "pop" snug the nut up just a bit more(although you likely won't).

I smeared some copper anti-seize on the splines of mine after I pulled it. I haven't needed to take it back off, but it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't take any more than just a sharp tug to get it off.

[SiC]

Still waiting on the puller tool. Hopefully it'll come tomorrow.

In the meantime I checked the plugs to see what they were like after the last run.

Plug 1


Plug 2


Plug 3


Plug 4


To me they look good enough to warrant not fiddling with the mixture anymore. Back plug is still looking a bit more sooted. My suspicion is either the plug lead isn't making so great contact after being reconnected numerous times or just a quirk of being an old engine.

I then torqued up the steering nut to 45 lbft and went for another drive.

Right now I've done 40 miles since it's come down from the garage last week. Still little miles but a massive difference from previously. Feel like I need to take it on a proper run soon.


Only thing holding me back is that these brakes are going to likely need work. Discs got to 100c again and that's only 30mph town driving. I can feel slight fluctuations on the pedal now that I'm sure wasn't there before. I think I'll just go throw a bit more money at it and just replace the whole front lot.

Also since starting to drive it, the left auto cancel has broken. This is something I'll ignore and leave as a old car character. Stalk looks original and it'll be sad to replace it with a modern crappy retro.

Other problem turned out to be a non problem. Fuel gauge is reading a bit low. At first I thought it was the repro regulator. Probably was as that went open circuit. I then put a old original Lucas one on. However they aren't particularly precise things and not really that great a design. So I've got a much better looking thing in the post.

Anyway the gauge is currently reading this level.


Which checking the resistance gives.


Looking up online this corresponds to:
20Ω = Full
35Ω = 3/4
65Ω = 1/2
105Ω = 1/4
222Ω = Empty

So providing the sender isn't ballsed up then I am just under half a tank. Sender is a modern one but it looked a decent design and well made. Also the level has been dropping, not rising.

Seems to have dropped quite a bit more than I expected. I filled the tank up shortly before putting it away last year. So either some has evaporated out since filling it up or its leaked out. Possibly leaked out in storage as those fixings were loose when I started it up the other weekend.

Hopefully it's not got a leak elsewhere!

[Dj_efk]

You shouldn’t need 20w/60 on this engine to get decent oil pressure, that grade of oil is too thick and won’t flow properly - I would swap it out for the correct grade (decent brand mineral oil), which in your case is 20w/50 or 15w/ 50 or even 15w/40.