Jim Bell Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 I used one for a couple of years before I bought a daewoo lanos. Decent wheel size and a brake help, plus the fact you can drink and ride and carry them on buses! Er. Where do you put the brake?! tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loserone Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Mine has a magura hydraulic rim brake with the lever mounted under the seat, so it looks like you're touching yourself down hills. The Moog, Lacquer Peel, Rave and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulplom Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Unicycle the man said? Sitting across from the library, in Wallsend yesterday - young feller tootles up the path on one. Nope NOT Sideshow Bob.... Just on a mission Never seen it done ... lyke .. as just transport!! TSWor lass works for action for blind just next to Wallsend wetherspoons. I wonder if we've met? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brodders Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Never seen it done ... lyke .. as just transport!! TSThere was a guy 2 years below me in school who used to use a unicycle to get from his house to the train station, and from the train station to school. All whilst wearing a fucking flat cap. I thought he was a bit odd, but I respected the fact that he did that every day to get to and from school, without falling off once. It was also bloody entertaining to see him cycle past at full pelt on that bright orange unicycle. loserone, alcyonecorporation and tooSavvy 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Mine has a magura hydraulic rim brake with the lever mounted under the seat, so it looks like you're touching yourself down hills.I think this is where the cirle of genius crosses the line of insanity. rml2345, spartacus, tooSavvy and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Wor lass works for action for blind just next to Wallsend wetherspoons. I wonder if we've met?I have secrets too OTOH.. Have you seen my car? No... If you see it - the only one in NE - then I will be helming TS paulplom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrett Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Heroic effort. A collection thread for the ages. My prediction: this guy will go far Brodders, The Moog, trigger and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M'coli Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Splendid stuff, they do go for miles on a whiff of fuel - expect a Strava request from another red N-reg 106 1.5D licker...! Dave_Q and Rave 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 By bike... Then added the map for us... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rml2345 Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Sterling effort, you'll have to do more collectioning in the future. Pedalo to Calais for a Renault 12? Jim Bell, Rave, Lacquer Peel and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LC Torana Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Mine has a magura hydraulic rim brake with the lever mounted under the seat, so it looks like you're touching yourself down hills. How is it physically possible to apply the brake without pivoting flat on your face? tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 . loserone and tooSavvy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Gently and with a lot of leaning back I would imagine.I'm not a unicyclist - therefore ignorant! However I have a big problem with a simple crank wheel doing anything other than going round no faster than the rider will allow.. ?? Bum - leg - pedal - contact patch >> are the whole gig! Not like you could 'freewheel'..... TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loserone Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Gently and with a lot of leaning back I would imagine.This, exactly, and it's why it's a hydraulic rim brake and not a cheapy V brake. Now discs have come down in price that's the more common solution; mine is a bit like this one Having a brake gives you the chance to have a break when going downhill, otherwise it's just as much work staying at a controllable speed as going uphill would be.. I'm not a unicyclist - therefore ignorant! However I have a big problem with a simple crank wheel doing anything other than going round no faster than the rider will allow.. ?? Bum - leg - pedal - contact patch >> are the whole gig! Not like you could 'freewheel'..... TSThis is why wheel size is important of course, but I understand you could buy unicycles with freewheels and even in-hub gears. Can't imagine they're big sellers though, and I can't find any for sale currently. Wouldn't like to ride 9.4 miles on one to pick up a 106, though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 I see... :/ Gudd Gudd TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Hows this getting on Rave? Has anyone replaced the washer fluid filler cap yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rave Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 Hows this getting on Rave? Has anyone replaced the washer fluid filler cap yet? Haha no, but I'll ask Joe to have a look for one while he's seeing if he can dig me out some rear seat belts... I've not done anything to the car so far I'm afraid, it's been far too infernally hot to be sitting inside a little car with a lot of glass area. I did take it for a bimble round to my friend's house today and we ran a couple of errands in it. Trip counter is now showing 110 miles on 2.2 gallons of fuel with no sign of it needing any more yet. I'm a bit worried about a couple of patches of rust in the boot. I know absolutely nothing about how to investigate and/or fix rust spots, though I have a mig welder I bought from Aldi on a whim years ago, and I'm keen to learn. I think I might need a wire brush or flap thingy for a cordless drill to grind the paint and rust off, to start with? It looks as if it's already had some* new metal put in at the back, the black sticky paint underneath the boot floor doesn't look factory. I also note that the spare is long gone (can't coexist with the towbar?), so I might invest in a can of tyre sealant and a cheapo footpump before undertaking any more long journeys... Other than that I am jolly pleased with it, I'd forgotten how pleasurable it is to scoot about in such a bog basic little car, and how right the design of them is. The steering does let it down though, I wouldn't mind it being heavy if it was precise, but it's not; as I commented before the lock is quite poor yet it's still 4 turns to get from one side to the other. If I make no other upgrades to it I'd like to try and fit power steering- if I can get a rack from a GTi or similar I might try bodging in an electrically powered pump (Merc A Class?) to save buggering about trying to fit one to the engine. I also think it's got no ARBs, so if I can get some from a scrap car I'd like to bolt them on to see if that makes it a bit pointier. If I did all that I think it'd be nearly as much of a weapon in the corners as my old Rallye was. It's finding the space and competence to do the work though, so it'll probably remain a pipe dream. Jim Bell, The Moog, Dave_Q and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 You won't need to bodge in a merc pump, 106s/saxos with pas were all electro hydraulic so they have their own electric pumps which can be retrofitted alongside the correct pas rack etc. Oem parts and all that jazz! Jim Bell and Rave 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rave Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 Ooh that's good news, thanks! I'll get on with finding one in a breakers near me then... Jim Bell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy18s Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Check the tyre pressures first.....ahem Rave and Jim Bell 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 The black sticky paint on the underside is rusproofing of some description. I suppose thats probably why theres so much boot floor left at the minute. Theyre normally rotted right up the edges. Handling improvement plans sound great! I must say that id never even noticed the lack of spare wheel or cradle, tow bar must indeed be to blame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 I'm a bit worried about a couple of patches of rust in the boot. I know absolutely nothing about how to investigate and/or fix rust spots, though I have a mig welder I bought from Aldi on a whim years ago, and I'm keen to learn. "Stay on the road, keep clear of the moors.." DSCF5531.JPG by E Honda, on Flickr OSR_wheel_well_Pug_106 by E Honda, on Flickr Rave and theshadow 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 I don't appear to have a pic before I started prodding things. This might be the earliest. I'm sure it was 50p or less in size to start with. DSCF5539.JPG by E Honda, on Flickr theshadow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 At least it's flat with good access! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadworkUK Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Struth alive. Not sure how I missed this - you were within a few miles of Chez Roadwork, I could have taken a few moments away from the office to cheer you on and throw a wet sponge at you. Jerzy Woking, Rave and beko1987 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rave Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 On 6/20/2017 at 2:42 PM, Eddie Honda said: I don't appear to have a pic before I started prodding things. This might be the earliest. I'm sure it was 50p or less in size to start with. DSCF5539.JPG by E Honda, on Flickr Erm yeah, so this turned out to be quite prescient. To cut a long story short, this 106 was the first of many collections of vehicles from AS, and my fleet has now expanded to 10 cars. The 106 has been sat on my driveway for over a year waiting patiently for me to get round to welding up the boot floor. My landlady informed me that she wants to put some scaffolding up to fix the gutters so that's given me a kick up the arse. Much as I love this little car it's looking like I'm going to be stuck living in suburban London just outside where the ULEZ is being expanded to next year, and most of my driving involves giving lifts to one or both of my elderly in-laws, and so this 3 door low slung car is considerably less popular with them than the Daihatsu Charade I bought last year, and will be less useful once it starts costing me £15 a time to drive inside the South Circular. So the plan is to fix it and sell it, not because there's any money in it for me, but because I adore 106s and it would break my heart to scrap one. So without even taking any pictures I dived straight into the driver's side, which seemed to be the larger of the two holes. A decent session with the flap wheel on my 115mm grinder and the slit disc on my new Lidl 12V cordless 76mm grinder had me ready to start putting metal in, and a bit of a session with the lump hammer and pipe pliers had a bit of metal bent (very) roughly to shape. Here's the finished result all covered in silver galv spray: It looks shit because it is shit; I'm an impatient and incompetent welder, But it is solid. So feeling full of myself, today I turned my attention to the other side where it appeared that the hole was quite a bit smaller. Oh. TBH, that's not really going to present a problem, I just need to let a lot more metal in. The rust appears to stop just short of the rear seat back bracket, so I'm planning to lap weld a 90 degree piece between that section and the floor. Then I figure that rather than muck about doing loads of little patches I'll just cut the entire crusty section out of the floor and weld in a circa 12"x 8" piece of flat steel to replace it; I won't be able to form the factory ribs but my 1mm steel sheet appears to be about twice as thick as the original biscuit tin Peugeot used, so I'm confident it'll be just as strong. There's a bracket underneath the part of it that seems to have some extra seam sealer on it to hold the exhaust hanger, but hopefully I can clean that up and chuck a load of rust converter and galv spray at it before welding it back on from underneath. But of course the other side looks worse: As far as it's possible to tell from doing a forensic dismantling of a lot of crispy weetabix, I think the inner wheelarch panel was spot welded to that inner panel that holds the seat back bracket, and also a lower panel that for some reason forms a double skin just above the axle. Then it was all left to trap water, I guess. That delta shaped hole above the rubber bump stop reveals the interior of the beam that supports the boot floor. No part of the axle mounts to anything south of the rear main chassis rail, fortunately. So I don't think any of the totally fucked metal is particularly structural. Basically, I need some advice as to whether to crack on here, or cut my losses. I'm happy enough to put the time in, but obviously I don't want to be selling anyone a dangerous car. I guess my plan would be to stop dicking about with the flap wheel, accept that all of that metal above the axle has got to go, and start cutting it back till I find something good to weld to. Then weld in a triangle to close off the bottom section, before sticking a plate on to join the inner wing to it. Then squirt a load of wax into the box section before closing the hole up. Finish up by spraving galv and painting underseal and stonechip all over. I figure that if Peugeot's crappy biscuit tin has lasted a quarter of a century before getting to this state, then my bodge up ought to prolong its life a few more years, but if it's not going to be safe then I guess I'll give it up. I generated quite a lot of dust today! Oh and final edit: Once that's done I'll need to do at least one of the front inner wings as well, don't know how much of a PITA that's likely to be... theshadow, Jim Bell, Eddie Honda and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshadow Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 holy moly,put the plate inside first ,than smoller plate on outside,if needed,seen, done worser on moggy minors,sill,floorpans,inner wings etc carry on regardless... Rave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juular Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 It certainly doesn't look structural. Disclaimer, I am a fairly novice repairer of frilly bits and can't see the rest of the car. Personally as long as that's the extent of it, I would crack on. I wouldn't faff with indenting or making any of the metal look OEM. If you are using 1mm sheet I'd focus on chopping out as much as possible in a way that makes shaping and welding new panels as simple as possible for you. If you double skin it as per original, seam seal where the edges meet. IMO it's the double skinning and crap factory sealing that starts off this kind of rot. Rave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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