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Junkman

The Epic Austrian owned R16 from Germany doing French things in a Parallel Universe near England Saga

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OK. When you purged the cooling system, and filled it up again, did you also fill the jar up to some level. What I am trying to say is, after filling the system again, could it just be expanding and overflowing until it finds its natural level again. If you empty the jar to half full - because I'm being optimistic here - and run it, what happens?

Also I am surprised it has an automatic electric fan. Very cutting edge for the time.

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OK. When you purged the cooling system, and filled it up again, did you also fill the jar up to some level. What I am trying to say is, after filling the system again, could it just be expanding and overflowing until it finds its natural level again. If you empty the jar to half full - because I'm being optimistic here - and run it, what happens?

Also I am surprised it has an automatic electric fan. Very cutting edge for the time.

 

Sigh...

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The glas fills up when the cooling system is not 100% air and water tight.

Leak can be anywhere, quite often top seal of the glas or overpressure valve in glas cover kaputt and opens to early.

 

Normal operation:

- Engine heats, water expands, overflows into glas, air on top of glas builds pressure.

- Engine cools, air on top of glas pushes water back into system. All fine.

 

System not sealed:

Engine heats, water expands, overflows into glas, air on top escapes, no pressure.

Engine cools, no pressure, water stays in bottle, problem.

 

find the leak....

 

By the way, glas should be filled to about 1/3d on cool engine, no more.

 

PS

If for any reason you feel need to open the hot radiator, always take out the glas and pour all the water into the radiatior. System will then settle itself with no need to bleed the system.

 

PPS

all above valid for 504 and Tagora, Renault built with  stolen Peugeot technology  presumably the same.

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By the way, glas should be filled to about 1/3d on cool engine, no more.

I know. Bleeding procedure of R16 explicitly states this. It says 3 cm above max mark, which is approx 1/3rd full if you are an optimist, or 1/3rd empty if you are an optimist with experience.

 

 

If for any reason you feel need to open the hot radiator, always take out the glas and pour all the water into the radiatior. System will then settle itself with no need to bleed the system.

Will not work on R16. Heather matrix too far above radiator level, thus will never self bleed.

 

 

all above valid for 504 and Tagora, Renault built with  stolen Peugeot technology  presumably the same.

Renault not stolen technology. Renault pioneered. Sadly. Because daft.

 

They later replaced the glass jar with a plastic expansion bottle having the hose from/to the radiator mounted at the bottom of it and a nylon one way valve for the air at the top. So they realised that their initial setup was a bit shit. However, upgrading the system now is not an option, because having a family sized Amora Croq’vert Extra Fins glass filled with a vile looking liquid is just too arrestingly beautiful.

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Fuck me, a replacement valve costs 70 Euros! Only available from the R16 shop in Holland.

 

The valve indeed failed initial fellatio tests, but then gradually started to work. It has thusly been decided to boil it in a 50 water 50 non brewed condiment mix for an hour or two.

I rather rack up a 70 quid electricity bill than sending the dosh to a greedy man who wears clogs when he rides his beige tyred pushbike from his tulip field to his windmill while smoking a spliff.

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Did you have the exact same symptom?

How would the system behave if the expansion bottle seal or valve were at fault?

I had problems with the expansion bottle filling and not emptying.

On another occasion the cap of the expansion bottle was split but that resulted in coolant all over the engine.

 

I've never owned a Renault though.

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I boiled the valve and the actual radiator cap with a dishwasher tablet for two hours. This is what they look like now.

 

40244645083_5489cbc324_b.jpg

 

32267267447_f14b40a348_b.jpg

 

 

The rubber seal of the radiator cap has that wear mark all round, so I inserted it upside down.

 

33334037338_a8bcc6bd4a_b.jpg

 

 

Reinstalled everything, filled the expansion glass to what it says in the book.

 

47157417982_3908da0a70_b.jpg

 

 

Bled the system exactly like it says in the book, system bled, heather got toasty warm, fan came on, went off, came on again.

 

47157414652_bdf55bd48b_b.jpg

 

 

Good.

 

 

Level in expansion bottle remained unchanged by bleeding procedure.

 

32267250377_e5e1ac1a61_b.jpg

 

 

Now it's all about waiting what happens when everything cools down.

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47157884492_f45068da7e_b.jpg

 

33334555988_a8be407f07_b.jpg

 

33334549048_c8fb720f5a_b.jpg

 

Strictly speaking in ICE terms, would it be correct to say that this engine has cooled down?

Mind you, it was at fan engaging temparature two hours ago.

 

Well, the content of the expansion bottle has lowered itself to the full mark level.

 

33334543478_18e7ebf0c6_b.jpg

 

 

I don't want to sound too optimistic just yet, but the chances that I don't have to infest my Renault with Simca bits are increasing.

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The good news is that the car now households with its water exactly like the old Renault advertisements promised.

The further good news is that it now runs right once again.

The bad news is that that Weber is essentially knackered too and the exhaust makes quite a racket yet again.

I don't want to fix it unless the carby/fannymould swappage ensues at the same time, otherwise I have to do it again.

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This has been an entertaining thread. I've always liked these  and just typed Renault 16 Autoshite in and this came up! You people have some great cars. Not seen a 16 in years. How is this one getting along?  Locked away from the salt I hope!

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