The Epic Austrian owned R16 from Germany doing French things in a Parallel Universe near England Saga

[Crooner]

I shall take the list to him and ring you when im there with prices.

Ive never met him before, but his reputation certainly precedes him.

I think i'll need a few quid then.

[Junkman]

Tell him if he isn't sensible, we'll buy the stuff from Wim.

[Junkman]

I hope it's not too late, but I also need two screenwash jets, please.

[Jim Bell]

You haven't half dropped some killer content since that lad called you a cunt Junkman. Can we have someone have a go at you once every couple of month to keep the rate up?

 

Those pics are all worth a page on the calendar. I love the one with the beast and the moon. And the ship. And the car.

[Junkman]

Can we have someone have a go at you once every couple of month to keep the rate up?

 

Feel free, for all I care.

However, this won't change the fact, that Christmas to Easter are relatively off season every year.

[barrett]

Who called you a cunt? I totally missed all that because I only read about five threads on here with any regularity

[Junkman]

It doesn't matter.

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

We've got a whole second forum for calling each other cunts now, it's a great time to be alive. 

[Junkman]

Ooooh, where is that forum for cunts?

[Junkman]

Should anyone give a shit, I decided to run this car with 10W40, since I felt the 20W50 generally being too thick for the modern engine it has.

My choice is this classic hot hatch oil, which contains 1,300 ppm ZDDP.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-OILS-HOT-HATCH-10W-40-SEMI-SYNTHETIC-ENGINE-OIL-5-LITRES/222883743922

 

 

The car runs noticeable smoother and there isn't a tick from the valve train.

I can also feel the oil reaching all the lubrication points quicker on startup.

 

I thus recommend this oil to other Cleon engined Renault owners.

 

Please make sure you run oils with ZDDP in your pre cat cars.

This isn't snake oil, you really need it in those engines and oilz for modernz don't contain any of it.

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

Ooooh, where is that forum for cunts?

 

 

Check the stickies. 

[Eddie Honda]

Fuck that, it's got a glof on the front

[somewhatfoolish]

Oil for hot hatches, disappointingly germanic labelling when clearly it ought to have a 16 on there.

[Junkman]

Check the stickies. 

 

Checking those stupid stickies is a big mistake IME.

[Junkman]

Fuck that, it's got a glof on the front

 

 

Oil for hot hatches, disappointingly germanic labelling when clearly it ought to have a 16 on there.

 

 

You two sure pissed off some resident Dolfs, you cunts.

[Squire_Dawson]

I can only second what Junkman said regarding using a thinner oil if the engine is in good condition. So much old stuff has the default 20w50 poured in when a lighter grade would be beneficial.

[SiC]

I quite like this talking hands video on the topic of ZDDP that Moss Motors of USA did. Clear, concise and a relaxing tone.

[RobT]

Thanks Junkman, I shall buy some hot hatch oil forthwith.

 

My Cleon engined Renner has that valve train tick, and I was wondering how to cure it (rather than just ignore it, as I've been doing).

[PhilA]

Hm. I need to get 30 weight non-detergent oil. I'm not sure if it has ZDDP in; I'm going to have to now make enquires at the local parts place about oil with it in or an additive in a bottle that can be mixed with the oil.

 

Thank you for informative tidbit.

 

Phil

[Junkman]

I quite like this talking hands video on the topic of ZDDP that Moss Motors of USA did. Clear, concise and a relaxing tone.

 

I honestly thank you for this unoriginal contribution, which clearly makes you a cunt, sir, according to some, but it's true nevertheless.

 

I wish he wouldn't call an engine a mowdur, though.

 

Of course you could chuck cheap supermarket oil into your engines, because that's still better than what they used originally.

 

When my R16 was registered in that Paris, they probably poured straight 30 weight detergent in it, hooned it from Ave Kleber, taking a slight right at Ternes with body roll of much hilarity, pressed the throttle of the Solex into the rubber mat all the way along the Blvd de Courcelles/Batignolles, then hooked a right at Clichy with the Michelin XZXs screaming for mercy, and French parked the heap right in front of the Moulin Rouge.

 

But if you use that cheap supermarket oil in your pre cat chod today, with there being nothing wrong with that, make sure you add a ZDDP additive, for fucks sake.

[forddeliveryboy]

Would be Total 15w40 for me, if it's still affordable.

 

On the Zinc question, I had a chat with an oil guy a while back and he reckoned there was still enough in to protect cams, plus the Boron and other protection had increased. Zinc was always the cheapest protection, what's used in addition today is more expensive and supposedly longer-lasting.

[Crooner]

Always a bit wary of oil company chaps. When I asked two of them about the auto trans oil for my r16 both Millers and Morris said it's is compatible with Dextron III, but an transmission expert said that you have to use the Renault/ total 200 ATF or the 'box will be knackered after 15,000 miles. That's the trouble, by the time the damage is done, they wouldn't have any liability.

[pshome]

How do you know the "oil company chaps" were wrong and the "expert" is right?

The real problem these days ist that you get as as many answers as you ask people.

[somewhatfoolish]

You two sure pissed off some resident Dolfs, you cunts.

 

I wonder what the target market is for Glof branded oil; the target for this stuff is a little easier to decipher.

 

[Junkman]

On the Zinc question, I had a chat with an oil guy a while back and he reckoned there was still enough in to protect cams, plus the Boron and other protection had increased. Zinc was always the cheapest protection, what's used in addition today is more expensive and supposedly longer-lasting.

 

I do not trust newfangled snake oil, which can't be better, because it's newfangled.

When has it become wrong to use the cheapest protection that is proven to work?

[Junkman]

Today it was time to clean up all the mess I've made lately.

 

 

 

 

After working like a harbour hooker for a few hours, it still looks shit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also, there is still a problem with the cooling system. The expansion glass was full to the brim.

 

 

Therefore, the heater is empty. So in essence, it dumps water into the expansion bottle, but it never sucks it back into the actual system.

What the bloody hell is wrong with it?

[Squire_Dawson]

OK. When you purged the cooling system, and filled it up again, did you also fill the jar up to some level. What I am trying to say is, after filling the system again, could it just be expanding and overflowing until it finds its natural level again. If you empty the jar to half full - because I'm being optimistic here - and run it, what happens?

Also I am surprised it has an automatic electric fan. Very cutting edge for the time.

[Eddie Honda]

I rather suspect the bottom liner seals.

 

Nah, OMGHGF: because Cleon. The fuckers do it from time to time, especially when being put back into regular use.

 

Use a Victor Reinz gasket.

[Junkman]

OK. When you purged the cooling system, and filled it up again, did you also fill the jar up to some level. What I am trying to say is, after filling the system again, could it just be expanding and overflowing until it finds its natural level again. If you empty the jar to half full - because I'm being optimistic here - and run it, what happens?

Also I am surprised it has an automatic electric fan. Very cutting edge for the time.

 

Sigh...

[Dick Longbridge]

Good lord. I almost thought I saw brand new inner wings then.

Are they photoshopped?