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Early Freelander. Keepage Quandary???


JayW

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A work colleague has offered me a dirt cheap R plate 2.0di Freeloader. Genuinely excess to requirements and carrying ticket.

 

I'm aware of propshaft/diff disconnection issue (whatever it is) though he says this one is still connected and not an issue.

 

Gotta be worth a punt.

 

What else is known of major issue on these beasts? Pray tell...

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Good cars. All tyres need to be the same make, model and within 2mm or so tread depth or else the VCU is overworked, will seize up and kill the IRD (transfer box, basically)

Keep it 4wd if possible, 2wd sucks balls on these unless you drive like a pensioner.

The Di is unrefined but reliable. 

check for water leaks into the boot, the wee toolbox in the boot floor is often full. Solution is to drill a hole in the floor. Water leaks from rear door seal, rear window seal, hardtop seal if its a 3door.

Check all warning lights come and go as required. The "three amigos" of ABS, HDC and TC are often on together due to faulty abs sensor or split rings on the driveshafts.

Window motor cables are starting to fail at this age, but cheap parts from ebay will fix them.

Rot is weird on these, they are usually either fine or totally fucked. under the boot handle is a common point, then sills, rear arches and boot floor.

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Up here all the pre 04 ish ones i have recently had, have needed, or have had welding on rear sills....... that and they drive like utter shite but always sell because " Land Rover" living the dream,, onellife etc,, and all that bollox.

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I've haggle him down to £185...

 

Tbh, it's sat unused since its last MOT as they expected it to fail dismally and replaced it before the test, only to have it pass with a couple of minors!

 

Having a look tomorrow.

 

Forewarned is forearmed! Keep 'em coming!

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It's red, that's all I know ;)

Correction, I now know it's an s-wagon and registered 07/04/98.

 

Oh, and it's burgundy...

 

Think I'm just gonna take it anyway for that money.

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Had two boys in my last job arguing over these, one had one and claimed it was the greatest thing since sliced bread the other claimed it was by far the worst vehicle he'd ever owned, and he'd received it for free 😂😂😂

 

Former lad in conversation claimed no breakdown s in three years but as time went on it became apparent it was only 3 years old 😱😱

 

Other lad claimed pretty much as above, a fair thirst for tyres if I remember correctly as well, constant silly electrical issues and minor breakdowns seemed the order of the day but for£185 honestly do you care if it bikes up in a month's time? Some tard will still buy it, not for me but there's loads still about so can't be TOOO bad.

 

MK1 evoque really 😂😂😂😂

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My first job in radio was driving the promotional car all around Suffolk - "Black Thunder" - a 1999 Freelander Derv.

 

It, honestly, had two repalcement gearboxes before 37000 miles ticked around.  When it was driving, it was a great little thing.  My friend in Ireland has one exactly the same on 170k so they are capable, I guess it's down to luck at this stage.

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My wife has a 2002 TD4 (the BMW diesel) and so I know a fair bit about them.

 

The early ones had a slightly different final drive ratio between front and rear axles, with the difference being taken up by the viscous coupling (VCU).

If the viscous coupling becomes too viscous then it causes wind up in the transfer box (IRD), and that's what kills them.

Landrover originally said that you are supposed to buy a new viscous coupling every 60,000 miles I think it was, but of course no one did.

 

However, it is possible to test the VCU to see whether it is too stiff.  The process involves jacking up a rear wheel and putting a socket and long extension on the hub nut and timing how long it takes for 5kg (i.e. 5 litres of water) to drop through 45 degrees.

 

Also if the VCU is stiff then you will feel it dragging if you maneuver the vehicle on full lock.  If you reverse and press the clutch, then spin the wheel to full lock, a seized VCU will cause the vehicle to stop.  A small amount of drag is normal.

 

You can get reconditioned VCUs so it isn't as bad as it used to be.

 

If the VCU is seized then you should replace it, or remove the drive shaft, otherwise it will damage the IRD which would be a death sentence on the vehicle.

 

To test the IRD you run it backwards and forwards on full lock and see it there is any knocking or banging noises.  Also I drove one once that made a noise like saw teeth on the overrun (such as foot off throttle going down hill at lower speeds.  This would be bad.

 

Around the end of 2001 they changed the axle ratios to make them the same front and rear, which largely solved the problem.

 

Most five door ones will have a seized sunroof.  The plastic cogs go.  The normal solution is get them properly closed and then pull the plug off of the back of the sunroof switch.

 

SWMBOs one has rust above the tailgate handle and a damp boot.  Also there is a lot of surface rust underneath and I had to get a sill welded.  The closed sunroof will also drip on your head sometimes.

 

I am actually quite impressed with it.

 

It bounces over speed humps in a fun way and corners well.  It's quite nippy and has a good towing ability.  I hear that they are actually quite capable off road and particularly good in snow and ice.  They are also easy to drive and well protected from parking knocks.  The rear seat space is good for the size of car.

 

They can cope with motorway driving quite well too.

 

If I needed something cheap for a bit of mud n snow, dirt tracks and as a general all purpose car I think I would.

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I can't even imagine the most hard core LR enthusiast finding anything good to say about these. The Discovery seems a bad enough car to me, the Freeloaders are just a hundred times worse.

Verdict: AVOID.

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I can't even imagine the most hard core LR enthusiast finding anything good to say about these. The Discovery seems a bad enough car to me, the Freeloaders are just a hundred times worse.

Verdict: AVOID.

There's quite a lot of hostility thinly veiled as "banter" towards these,mainly from Defender drivers

Tbf,they still think the Td5 as the Devils own engine,with no place in their "truck"

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Ive had 3 X 3dr ones.

 

1st was a '99 T reg pez bought in 2002 that drove lovely, didn't kettle it's self or FTP in any way. Sold on due to being shit on fuel.

 

2nd was a 6 month old td4 Serengeti that we paid 16k for!! Lovely driver and good on fuel. Sold on because I got bored of it.

 

3rd was a 2001 td4 gs auto. Top car, nice spec with side steps and roll bars fitted.

post-19687-0-72403600-1493983903_thumb.jpeg

 

Only FTP was a failed maff sensor which would've cost many many pounds to replace due to dealer only part but found out on eBay you could get a cheaper pierberg sensor with a "tuning box" for much less it was fixed with that.

Great tow car if a little thirsty. Sold on due to the mil not being able to climb in the back. Wish I'd kept that one.

 

All 3 had the watery boot seal problem which was sorted under warranty.

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