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yellowperil

Renner Modus, locked out.

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Did these ever come with keycards? I thought they were all key based?If key based, then the lock will be on the passengers side (because Renault are lazy).

I have tried the ignition key in the left door lock, even with copious amounts of Three in One oil it won't turn.

It goes in and I can feel the pins moving, but it will not turn and I don't want to force it.

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As above with oil and key

PLUS

as you jiggle, tap the back of the key repeatedly with a  small picture hanging hammer, or screwdriver handle, continue tapping and jiggling, and you should have it turning in a minute or three. This has worked for me with several seemingly long-dead locks recently. Try it.

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As said jack it up look for the big red cable to the starter or alternator.

Use jump leads (or make up a couple of little baby leads) and carefully connect the pos to one the above and the earth anywhere on the engine/gearbox casing.

This should give the car enough power to allow the fob to open the doors.

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We dun uht!

We took the two little plastic grills off the bumper, but the lock was still not accessible.

Then we pulled the bumper away and got lucky.

Some of the fasteners holding the bumper onto the slam panel were missing and another broke so we were able to pull the bumper away enough to undo the bolts holding the bonnet lock, then we were able to lift the bonnet enough to pull the cable and release it.

Then we removed a load of plastic, put a booster onto the battery and it unlocked with the fob.

Battery is now on charge to see if it works.

I am going to work around with the key and some oil and see if I can get that working.

Thank you all for your advice.

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Won't the WD40 and/or other light oils wash out any grease in there and mess the lock up even more?

With a worn lock quite possibly - there's some kind of special lubricant for it

 

This kind of lock won't be worn because it'll never have been used

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The battery was knackered, so I bought a new one from Eurocarparts and fitted it on Tuesday...

 

It was completely flat, which I wasn't expecting.

 

I put it on charge and refitted it and I have just gone out to start it, it barely turned over but did start.

 

Obviously the battery is no good, now I am worried that I won't get a refund on the battery. I was going to refit all the plastics and get it in for an MOT but I have to wait now.

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You should never receive a flat new battery - If the battery came to you flat then it was crap to start with.

Either it was faulty from the factory, or more likely it's just been left for 5 years on a shelf and has suplhated and knackered itself through neglect.

Stockists should rotate stock and keep slow moving lines charged every 6 months or so, but they often don't

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OK. I are a nijot.

 

I went out to take the battery off and moved it with the ignition switched on and it clicked.

 

One of the leads going to the terminal was loose, in my defence I never touched it when I replaced the battery.

 

So I tightened it up and everything is fine.

 

The only problems it has now are the fan just buzzes, but doesn't work, so the climate control is useless. This was like that before it got parked up.

 

The other issue is a massive bang when turning the steering lock to lock, it was fine before it was parked.

I stuck my head under and had the missus turn the wheel, but I couldn't see the problem. I will let a garage sort it out.

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The car that just keeps giving...

The dreaded headlight bulb replacement.

Both dipped beams were not working when the car came off the road in September, the offside one fixed itself and is now working, but the nearside one had blown.

Because I had the plastics off the top of the engine I was able to get my hand in and take the bulb out, but I could not get the bulb holder into place.

 

It is a different holder to any I have seen with a little hinged flap on it to secure it in place.

 

I spent most about two hours last Sunday bent over double trying to do it with no result except a bad back which has left me in agony all week.

 

Today I had recovered enough to be able to walk, so I went out and took the bodywork off and brought the headlight indoors.

 

A bit of fiddling about with the old bulb and I was able to clip it into place.

 

So new bulb in, after a bit of practice taking the old bulb in and out without looking and with the headlight held facing towards me i am now confident that I can replace it from the top next time it blows.

 

Soooooo back out, to the car, connect headlight, check all lights and start fitting headlight on and then the bodywork...

 

Something made me check the lights again and it was at this point I realised that the sidelight isn't working.

 

I have now packed my tools away and come in for tea.

 

I suppose I am lucky that I hadn't finished the job before I noticed it.

 

Bloody back is killing me again now.

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I finally got this on the road a legal yesterday

 

The climate control doesn't work, the fan doesn't work on any setting, the buzzing noise it's making is in fact coming from the sensor up near the rear view mirror.

I have just pulled the fuse and replaced it but still nothing.

Google is saying resistor pack, but I don't even know where this is and to be honest I am getting a little out of my depth.

Any thoughts, anyone?

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Sounds daft, but how good is the battery? On the Laguna, if the battery voltage drops below a certain level (especially often happens when cranking), the interior blower fan disables itself until next restart.

 

The sensor near the rear view mirror has a little fan in it to suck air over the temperature and humidity sensor. If it is especially noisy, sometimes taking it off and removing accumulated dust helps a lot.

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Five T20 torx screws hold in the glovebox, two at the bottom, two higher up and a middle one at the top under a little rubber bung.

Remove these, pull the entire glovebox assembly out then the resistor pack is on the right with a bundle of five wires going into the multiplug and two thicker wires, normally red and black, going into the pack itself. It's held in by another two torx screws...remove them and the resistor pack will slide out.

Chances are the wiring going into the plug will be burnt...it's possible to get a new bit of loom and the plug itself from eBay for around £15. Half a hour with a soldering iron or some decent crimp connectors and you're away.

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