unclecalzone Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Need to do a clutch change on a 1.4 Tigra B (essentially a corsa c underneath) tomorrow. What must I look out for with these? Done a few clutches but only old rover and psa chod not one of these. Ive read subframe droppery is the order of the day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 My Mum's Corsa C needed the subframe dropping to change the clutch, think a lot of cars so built are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 cheers, not looking forward to it as no doubt it'll be a mare considering the state of some of the fixings underneath.surprisingly expensive prices for a decent valeo clutch kit from euros too, although a sale code helped! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 It's not something I would tackle but pretty sure it will be straightforward! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 not particularly difficult just a lot of things to remove to even get at what you need. And the vauxhalls of old had a clutch you could do in 30 minutes, not so with moderns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Station Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 I dropped the subframe on my Astra, undid one engine mount and slide the box off that way. It's very big, but much easier and quicker. http://autoshite.com/topic/21596-guess-the-amount-of-time-on-various-jobs/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Thanks chaps, I dropped the subframe down a touch to get the box off.Bloody top starter motor bolt is a pig to get at under the twinport inlet manifold, totally stupid design if you ask me. The lower ball joints also gave me some grief too but they did succumb to 19 stone of me bouncing on a breaker bar or maybe the numerous bashing with a lump hammer... One goosed clutch Thank the gods of shite for my cheapy electric impact gun, saved a lot of hassle on some of the more stubborn torx head bolts. That'll do me for tonight though, going to carry on with it tomorrow and see if I can get it finished so the other half can have a working car again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk tinribs, theshadow, 0ldCh0d and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0ldCh0d Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Is it a hydraulic clutch on these? Like a Fiesta Mk6? Or just a cable one? Asking because if it's a hydraulic clutch, they are sometimes a pain in the arse to bleed back up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Good shift there. Hydraulic system in the C and derivatives. 0ldCh0d 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Yeah hydraulic clutch on these (corsa C onwards is the same) so a little fiddly to change the concentric release bearing.I'm going to get it hooked up to a tyre fed pressure bleeder even though the clutch instructions say they dont recommend it...living dangerous me! keep it low like 10psi i cant see what harm it can do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Well that was eventful to say the least considering I've just finished. woke up around 10 and got straight back on the job. The gearbox took about an hour to align with the engine which whilst not the quickest one I've done was also not the worst - I'm working on the floor with just a 2 tonne trolley jack.So then began the the installation of the subframe three bolts when back just fine except for the near side rear one, it would not tighten at all. There's a little access hole you can get your fingers in whilst bending your arms like mr tickle, lo and behold the hefty securing bolt stuck inside the now spinning captive nut which had broken its welds.fuck!So cue 4 hours or so spent figuring out what to do, you can't cut the bolt with cutting tools as there is no room so I had to just chop away at it with a pretty blunt junior hacksaw then cold chisel the bolt in half.I then found a sturdy stainless bolt the right length and bopped it through the hole so it hung down, that was a 30 minute job in itself when you've got fingers like sausages and a tiny reverse blind hole to work through.Some bolt renants and perhaps a socket extension disappeared irretrievably into the chassis leg never to be seen again too.Eventually I managed it and bolted the subframe up.Got it all back together from then on with no major drama other than being tired I'd left the near side abs sensor out so managed to get it fitted through the wheel and bolted down. took it for a test drive and it seems ok to drive but I've now got a non functioning drivers window as it won't drop when opening the door nor will it work from the switch inside the cabin so if anyone can share any tips on a fix I'd appreciate it. Being a French built GM car where a lot of it relies on power I don't want a case of it throwing a hissy and having epilectrics Sorry no pictures as I was too filthy/annoyed to take any. I've also given myself an black eye from dropping a 3/8 inch wrench onto my face from 2 feet up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Chuckle @ your black eye, we've all done that haven't we? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon928se Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Got it all back together from then on with no major drama other than being tired I'd left the near side abs sensor out so managed to get it fitted through the wheel and bolted down. took it for a test drive and it seems ok to drive but I've now got a non functioning drivers window as it won't drop when opening the door nor will it work from the switch inside the cabin so if anyone can share any tips on a fix I'd appreciate it. Being a French built GM car where a lot of it relies on power I don't want a case of it throwing a hissy and having epilectrics Sorry no pictures as I was too filthy/annoyed to take any. I've also given myself an black eye from dropping a 3/8 inch wrench onto my face from 2 feet up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Re Window: Might just be the top limit needs resetting - ign on, door shut, hold window button in up position for 10 seconds or so . IIRC you should hear a click once its reset. I have to do this on the Astra Convertible every time I disconnect the battery to work on it. PS probably need to do both front windows at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 I look like I've had a weekend spent on the streets, filthy fingernails and a black eye but I've not even set foot out of my property since Friday haha. Rather this black eye than massive cut up hands I've got away lightly this time.Cheers for the window advice I've disconnected the battery for tonight so I'll check it out tomorrow and report back, fingers crossed it works! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Gave it a quick going over tonight, tightened the rear sub frame bolts as they weren't fully tight (as in FT!) Cheers to jon928se I did the window sync procedure and they are working again Might run it through the local jet wash on the way home from work tomorrow save making more mess at home Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk jon928se 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclecalzone Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 First proper road test this morning, I'm going with 75% good as I managed to get to work but 3 miles or so into the 10 mile trip the cooling fan came on full tilt and the temp gauge fell off the bottom of the stop. Fortunately it's electrical gremlins nothing mechanical, going to see what it does tonight but it's bringing up a p0115 code which is the CTS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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