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Posted

It's just marketing speak for good ol' semi-synthetic.

Posted

Have they finally started selling it in 5L tins instead of 4L tins, thank god! who cares about the label.

Posted

Have they finally started selling it in 5L tins instead of 4L tins, thank god! who cares about the label.

 

Good spot and very good point.

Posted

That strikes me as fully synthetic.

 

Have you looked at Castrol's website?

Posted

I'm not sure Castrol would shed much light on this, since they were the ones Mobil originally tried to prevent from calling oils based on mineral oil synthetic by taking the case to an advertising/marketing board, and failed.

 

It's probably safe to say that even Castrol oil labelled 'synthetic' isn't fully synthetic - it's not based on Group IV or V oil, but Group III.

 

http://machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

  • Like 1
Posted

All semi synthetic means is that there is an additive package in it, usually consists of long chain polymer strings that "enhance the lubrication effect along with other stuff like molybdenum etc.

You can actually buy the additives to put back into oils in large systems (ie marine gearboxes) after they have become less effective (chopped up by the shearing of the gears) rather than change all the oil

Sorry for the egghead stuff

Posted

I work on the basis that if it's £15 it's probably semi, and if it's £40 it's probably fully synth.

 

This isn't infallible as there are always exceptions but as a guideline I find it useful.

  • Like 1
Posted

Why does it say for "gasoline and diesel engines" in a bottle clearly labelled for non-septic countries?

 

The Wakefeild Oil Company has certainly gone down hill grrrrrrrrrrrr

Posted

4x5L KERAX HYPERDRIVE 5W30 FULLY SYNTHETIC C3 CAR ENGINE OIL LOW SAPS OEM = 20L https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N2LR9K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4ReYybAW4WR3A

 

Value fully synth low ash (DPF) .

 

Or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Fully-Synthetic-5W30-Engine-Oil-20-litres-Formula-F-1502272-/182456181897?hash=item2a7b3c6489:g:cNsAAOSwTuJYpGZ2

 

TBH Fully Synth oil is so cheap nowadays I wouldn't use anything else unless it was in a car where you're specifically not supposed to use it, like an RX8. I normally pay about 20 quid for 5 litres of ECP's Triple QX stuff, though I'm tempted by the genuine Ford oil listed above. I don't do many miles but change it every 8000, and my brother has a C-Max which takes the same stuff.

Posted

I got some of the Halfords offer oil at £11 for 4 litres, supposedly fully synthetic. I doubted it was the sort of thing Mobil1 is, and after a bit of a read around it seems that there are two differently-made best quality (Group III) mineral base oils. The better of the two with decent additive package is what they're calling 'synthetic', it's meant to be very nearly or even as good as the synthesised oil base stuff.

Posted

Hmmm, I got one of these "new" style packaged GTX oil containers from Asda, on offer, but its FOUR (4) ! litres...

it is somewhat confusing, as it says on the back it's for  VW, Seat, Skoda, Mercedes, Fiat, and Hyundai....

 

so won't it work in other vehicles, for god's sake, like Vauxhall, GM, etc  ....  it's OIL,  surely, it must do,

but why say it only suits certain vehicles???

 

I am confused.   I intend in using it in an old 1990 vehicle.                    BANG

Posted

but why say it only suits certain vehicles???

 

I am confused. I intend in using it in an old 1990 vehicle. BANG

You need some Tection 15w40: "Castrol Tection is a 15W-40 mixed fleet diesel engine oil designed to provide excellent protection for fleets containing vehicles from a variety of manufacturers."

 

So who's nearest to this lovely stuff?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-L-Castrol-Tection-oil-15w-40-/182488376795?hash=item2a7d27a5db:g:qqQAAOSw2gxYxwZ~

 

 

post-4845-0-21095900-1489538459_thumb.jpg

Posted

I got some of the Halfords offer oil at £11 for 4 litres, supposedly fully synthetic. I doubted it was the sort of thing Mobil1 is, and after a bit of a read around it seems that there are two differently-made best quality (Group III) mineral base oils. The better of the two with decent additive package is what they're calling 'synthetic', it's meant to be very nearly or even as good as the synthesised oil base stuff.

DPF is the issue. They need low SAPS, whatever that is.

VW 507.00, MB 229.51 etc. Oil suitable for PD engines will goose DPF faster. Newer spec more £££ obviously.

 

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk

Posted

As long as it's amber in colour, tastes like olives and helps makes nipples slippery, it's oil.

 

Most of my fleet get fleet grade 10w40 semi and have never complained.

 

It's only these newfangled motors that whinge about it.

 

Just picked up the works 2016 Blingo from its first service and the cheeky buggers charged £50.85 for 3.75 ltrs of 0w30!

 

(mind you, apparently air filters are every 4 years now despite cabin filters being every 2 years)?!!

Posted

To be fair it always sounded a bad idea to me as well, can't imagine anything that will double up as EP90 being much use as hydraulic oil or too great as engine oil

Posted

Next you'll be telling me I can't pour beef dripping in me engine...

Posted

I'd like to know why there is a significant difference in price between a fully synthetic 5w30 in Ford spec (so whatever acea number it is) and gm dexos rated stuff. Was in a Wilkos earlier and even with their own brand stuff, the price difference between the the two nearly double.

Even wilkos brand (repackaged comma or tetrosyl probably) was about 14 quid for 2 litres.

I find it really difficult these days to find well priced decent oil that's available off the shop shelf

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Next you'll be telling me I can't pour beef dripping in me engine...

I once (deliberately) filled the sump with waste vegoil (my fuel) in a car three months from the bridge, for a bet. I added some old ant powder (having dissolved it) for good measure and the old lump purred the next 3000 miles without a murmur, with the oil replaced halfway. Even I was a little surprised, especially with a turbo and lots of hills.

 

http://rsta.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/368/1929/4851

  • Like 1
Posted

What was the veg oil like when you dropped it? Any sign of polymerisation? Is that your paper you linked too?

Posted

When the oil (rapeseed) came out it felt a little thinner when cooled to ambient, but definitely no signs of the onset of any polymerisation. I'd kept a careful eye on things - beyond 1000 miles is supposed to be risky, as much for loss of shear resistance as anything. I'd never used Boron before, it did seem to make things run sweeter.

 

As the car ran closer to its end I tried harder to break the engine, giving it much higher revs than usual under full acceleration (1.9TDi so usually 2.5-3k enough) and sustained highish revs in third and fourth up long drags. You could feel the oil was too thin when really hot, but only like running a 0w30 in something happier on 15w40.

 

You can buy vegetable oil engine/gear oils and plenty use therm, obviously there's an additive package in the same way as mineral lube oils.

 

Not my paper in the link!

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