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Jim Bell

Peugeot 106 1.5D *!!Collected!!*

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Suggested test plan would be to swap the bulb round with one that definitely works eg oil or boil light. 

 

If it's not the bulb then try to trace the wire from the alternator to the dash.

 

As said, on most alternators if the wire to the dash light isn't connected then no chargy.

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lol @ if the last owner got rid because on going charge issue that they couldn't resolve was because the bulb was blown.

 

Iirc modern cars with LEDs in their dash use a resistor in parallel because the LEDs don't pass enough current. So swapping out bulbs in a dash that had filament as standard to LED if you don't know what you're doing will end in tears.

 

Basically the exciter coils need a small amount of current to get them going. The bulb passes this current when the exciter side of the circuit is lower. As the voltage increases and stabilises between the two, the bulb goes out acting as a resistor between the two.

 

TL;DR a alternator uses the physical properties of a filament bulb to allow it to start alternating.

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It does. And I presume it was fitted precisely because Peugeot didnt fit a battery light as standard. Its also wildly innacurate.

They did fit an alternator light, yours is probably buggered.  When the ex-explosive-cabbage 106 diesel threw its alternator belt, the alternator light pulsed slowly on and off, rather than displaying constantly like it should when the ignition is on but the engine isn't running.

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I had one of these. 1997 1.5 D 5 door in blue. It was surprisingly ok driving wise, not nearly as slow as expected. Handling was pretty sturdy also. Cannot fault the 106 diesel at all. It was the loudest thing in the world though and the steering was set in concrete. Eventually I bought a Saab instead. Savings in fuel costs were fantastic though.

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Right.  Here we go.

 

UYArtVp.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Lets have a look at these clocks.

 

 

 

 

 

neAlcJj.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have not broken anything thus far.  Onward.

 

 

 

 

 

JoSP6AY.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

O7JGwuS.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hmmmmmmmm.  Right.  These screws are really loose..................

 

Uhd4k7J.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes.  Someone has been in here before.

 

X3KYFIu.jpg

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Maybe I can create a better bridge, straight to a pin?

 

 

 

Fire up the burn stick!

 

3MimwJP.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Now Im not very good at hot metal.

 

 

uk3ln11.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Not pretty, but maybe THATS fixed it.

 

 

 

 

 

Lets see!

 

 

 

 

 

F2puvBq.jpg

 

 

 

 

Well no.  No it has not fixed it. 

Known good bulb and holder in the battery light slot, still no light illuminated.  No charging occuring on the multimeter.  Bollocks.

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lol @ if the last owner got rid because on going charge issue that they couldn't resolve was because the bulb was blown.

 

Iirc modern cars with LEDs in their dash use a resistor in parallel because the LEDs don't pass enough current. So swapping out bulbs in a dash that had filament as standard to LED if you don't know what you're doing will end in tears.

 

Basically the exciter coils need a small amount of current to get them going. The bulb passes this current when the exciter side of the circuit is lower. As the voltage increases and stabilises between the two, the bulb goes out acting as a resistor between the two.

 

TL;DR a alternator uses the physical properties of a filament bulb to allow it to start alternating.

 

 

Great intel on here.  Every day's a school day.

 

Indeed - I thought using the warning light in the exciter circuit died out in about 1973.

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Put the multimeter between one of the bulb pins and ground. Should read 12v. The other pin should have continuity between that pin and the alternator battery pin.

 

But tbh, those clocks look a right pigs ear mess. What about soldering wire straight from the two pins on the connector to the bulb itself directly?

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