Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Result 1. Result 1.1. The volt meter lies. It dances round all over the place as and when it wishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Bet the voltmeter is wired up in some retarded way off the the heater fan or summink. AMC Rebel, Jim Bell and BorniteIdentity 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Maybe the voltmeter is buggering up the electrics? Is it worth removing it to see, especially if it's not working properly anyway? Jim Bell and AMC Rebel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 SOMETHING is running from a screw driven into each battery terminal. I would hazard a guess that would be the voltmeter. CGSB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Shown below. CGSB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Wait, don't alternators need the battery light for the exciter coils to work properly? Someone hasn't changed it for an LED, or filament bulb has just blown or something have they? Jim Bell and dave21478 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 As far as I can see, there isnt a battery light. Unless the bulbs gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave21478 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 It should have a battery light - it forms an important part of the charging circuit. If the bulb is blown/missing then it wont charge. CGSB, Jim Bell and M'coli 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Well thats good info!!! Cheers man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave21478 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Edit - should be just to the left of the handbrake light at the bottom. Rave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Internet sez it should be just to the left of the handbrake light: Rave and Jim Bell 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Ok, this is good news. Thanks very much everyone. Clocks out tomorrow and see what happens with a bulb in. Craig the Princess 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Suggested test plan would be to swap the bulb round with one that definitely works eg oil or boil light. If it's not the bulb then try to trace the wire from the alternator to the dash. As said, on most alternators if the wire to the dash light isn't connected then no chargy. Jim Bell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 lol @ if the last owner got rid because on going charge issue that they couldn't resolve was because the bulb was blown. Iirc modern cars with LEDs in their dash use a resistor in parallel because the LEDs don't pass enough current. So swapping out bulbs in a dash that had filament as standard to LED if you don't know what you're doing will end in tears. Basically the exciter coils need a small amount of current to get them going. The bulb passes this current when the exciter side of the circuit is lower. As the voltage increases and stabilises between the two, the bulb goes out acting as a resistor between the two. TL;DR a alternator uses the physical properties of a filament bulb to allow it to start alternating. UltraWomble, Jim Bell and Dirk Diggler 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Great. Cheers dudes. I am now armed with INFORMATION. Ill have a go at it tmorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BorniteIdentity Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Great intel on here. Every day's a school day. stephen01, smellypoo, ChinaTom and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Gawd bless the autoshite hive mind and all contributers that sail in her. SiC, egg and rantingYoof 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Amys aunt has those battery terminals on her clio, took me bastard ages to work out how to jump start it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M'coli Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 It does. And I presume it was fitted precisely because Peugeot didnt fit a battery light as standard. Its also wildly innacurate.They did fit an alternator light, yours is probably buggered. When the ex-explosive-cabbage 106 diesel threw its alternator belt, the alternator light pulsed slowly on and off, rather than displaying constantly like it should when the ignition is on but the engine isn't running. Jim Bell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I had one of these. 1997 1.5 D 5 door in blue. It was surprisingly ok driving wise, not nearly as slow as expected. Handling was pretty sturdy also. Cannot fault the 106 diesel at all. It was the loudest thing in the world though and the steering was set in concrete. Eventually I bought a Saab instead. Savings in fuel costs were fantastic though. Jim Bell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Right. Here we go. Lets have a look at these clocks. I have not broken anything thus far. Onward. Hmmmmmmmm. Right. These screws are really loose.................. Yes. Someone has been in here before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Someone has indeed tried to repair* this in the past. The printed circuit plastic sheet on the back of the clocks has decayed and come away and someone has attempted a crude bridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Maybe I can create a better bridge, straight to a pin? Fire up the burn stick! Now Im not very good at hot metal. Not pretty, but maybe THATS fixed it. Lets see! Well no. No it has not fixed it. Known good bulb and holder in the battery light slot, still no light illuminated. No charging occuring on the multimeter. Bollocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC Rebel Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 lol @ if the last owner got rid because on going charge issue that they couldn't resolve was because the bulb was blown. Iirc modern cars with LEDs in their dash use a resistor in parallel because the LEDs don't pass enough current. So swapping out bulbs in a dash that had filament as standard to LED if you don't know what you're doing will end in tears. Basically the exciter coils need a small amount of current to get them going. The bulb passes this current when the exciter side of the circuit is lower. As the voltage increases and stabilises between the two, the bulb goes out acting as a resistor between the two. TL;DR a alternator uses the physical properties of a filament bulb to allow it to start alternating. Great intel on here. Every day's a school day. Indeed - I thought using the warning light in the exciter circuit died out in about 1973. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castros_bro Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 New/old dashboard and penicillin supplier http://autoshite.com/topic/27409-cavcraft-shadow-get-in-the-sea/ Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Good effortz so far that man, I'd concur that those clocks should be thrown in the sea and replaced as a step 1. barefoot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KruJoe Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Sorry, the clocks in that minging mk2, and the Saxo breaker I have differ substantially from a mk1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Put the multimeter between one of the bulb pins and ground. Should read 12v. The other pin should have continuity between that pin and the alternator battery pin. But tbh, those clocks look a right pigs ear mess. What about soldering wire straight from the two pins on the connector to the bulb itself directly? loserone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Clocks can be removed without removing the steering wheel FYI Definitely dont know this from removing the brake pad wear warning light from one in the past Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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