Schutz

[Stevebrookman]

Hello all,

I have been rubbing down the inner wheel arches on my Royale. I have used Vactan to kill the rust and will then paint with epoxy primer. On the other wheel arch I then hand brushed underseal on.

 

I thought it might be better to use a Schutz gun to spray on Schutz (or a similar brand) as this would get into the nooks and crannies better than hand brushing.

 

Any thoughts or recommendations, as always greatly, appreciated.

 

Steve

 

[MarinaJosh]

When using spray stuff I have found it difficult to get a decent thick layer, but I have been using aerosols rather than a proper gun for it. Dinitrol just washed straight off on a daily car, it did give a lovely finish though. I keep going back to good old Hammerite underbody seal as it's easy to get a nice thick coat on. I tend to spray round with some cavity wax as well to help protect the nooks and crannies before coating with an underseal. I have found Dinitrol's cavity wax to be good.

[forddeliveryboy]

Each method can leave poorly-covered areas of not applied properly - and both work well if done right. Brushing on does take ages, though.

[steveo3002]

my fav is treat /remove the rust , epoxy prime the repairs then use over paintable stonechip through a shutz gun , then gloss paint on top. either matching the bodywork or gloss black , doesnt need to be super automotive gloss ive used the aldi metal paint

 

my reasoning is that this way a sponge and hose will have it fully clean and i can see any future scabs coming vs shutz stays a bit sticky and never cleans up like new 

[Tamworthbay]

Bilt hamber dynax isn't cheap but is fantastic stuff.

[Station]

What is Schutz? Is it the black tarry stuff? I have two big tins for sprayer.

[richardmorris]

Yes.

 

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[RayMK]

Common practice is to apply a thick layer of underseal prior to selling.  It will hide the almost inevitable corrosion problems for a few years.  I will not buy a freshly undersealed car because I tend to keep cars for 5+ years and underseal is always a pain in the arse when fighting rust.  If you are keeping a car, go for rust removal and zinc loaded primer, then stone chip or chassis paint. 

[Guest Lord Sward]

I've used Shultz for decades, sprayed on with a compression/air gun.  Provided the car isn't rotten to start with, it works well enough and its very cheap.

[Split_Pin]

I use Tetrosyl. I get a big can of it for about a tenner from my motor factor and it's nice and thick. Not as thick as the proper stuff my garage used after they welded the Corsa but close enough.

[Station]

Yes I have tetrosyl, I hate that black stuff!

[Dead_E23]

Schutz is fantastic for making my crappy welding look less offensive.   

[Uncle Jimmy]

I like schutz type underseal; OK, if you're lucky to own a really mint or valuable car you might want to be able to see the state of the paint underneath but if your motor is fairly average or is used regularly it's good stuff.

The thickness and rubbery nature of it affords protection from stone chips and it does neatly cover areas of weldage. I give new metal a couple of coats of Hammerite and then stipple the underseal on with a large brush, thinning it out with petrol works well as it dries fast then and you can get a good thickness built up in the course of a day.

[Bren]

I must congratulate everybody for calling it by the correct name - not "schultz" or "schulz".

[Bren]

 

Some schulz.

[Guest Lord Sward]

Sprayed on good and thick, its also quietens down road noise from a cheap car.

[sierraman]

Underseal tends to dry up and cause corrosion to take a hold. Stonechip tends to last just that bit longer. At the end of the day it depends what you are expecting, if undersealing the sills prevents some welding bills for 5 years it's done it's job. A lot of people seem to expect it to underseal a car, never inspect it and it remain corrosion free for 20 years. Like anything it does require periodic inspection and maintenance.

 

When people say Waxoyl is shit etc, has anyone applied some to a rustfree car, kept it 20 years and the the cars still rot free? Or do people half arsed slap some on over some wet rusty chassis legs in February, then complain 8 months down the line that it hasn't reversed the physical process of corrosion?

[Uncle Jimmy]

Some schmalz?

[DodgeRover]

Underseal tends to dry up and cause corrosion to take a hold. Stonechip tends to last just that bit longer. At the end of the day it depends what you are expecting, if undersealing the sills prevents some welding bills for 5 years it's done it's job. A lot of people seem to expect it to underseal a car, never inspect it and it remain corrosion free for 20 years. Like anything it does require periodic inspection and maintenance.

 

When people say Waxoyl is shit etc, has anyone applied some to a rustfree car, kept it 20 years and the the cars still rot free? Or do people half arsed slap some on over some wet rusty chassis legs in February, then complain 8 months down the line that it hasn't reversed the physical process of corrosion?

Applied waxoil underbody wax in ideal conditions to a load of new panels on a rangerover which had already been primed and painted, 2 years later it was falling off in sheets, 3M underbody wax seems better, but at least underseal stays in place.

[Squire_Dawson]

After many years' experiments with various techniques, I have found the best method is as follows:

 

1. Thoroughly clean the area with clean water and a stiff brush then more fresh water and sponge.

2. Scrape off all loose paint and rust then wire-brush.

3. Apply a rust neutraliser such as Kurust or similar.

4. Apply 2 coats of zinc-based primer.

5. Apply 1 or 2 coats of black Hammerite.

6. Top coat with body colour.

7. 'waxoyl' the area if needs be.

 

It is very time consuming and labour intensive but it works for me. I know Hammerite gets a lot of stick but I have found it to last longer than other products claiming to be superior, as long as you don't brush it directly onto rust as stated on the tin.

I have used Kurust which has worked fine for me but want to give Vactan a go having read other member's experiences of it. I don't use the brand Waxoyl but prefer one of the others such as Rustbuster or Dynax. Finally, you can't beat very thin engine oil for brushing inside doors to get into the seams, the sills likewise - spray it in with an old kitchen cleaner sprayer/garden sprayer, thin the oil down if needs be adding a carrier to aid 'creep' into seams. Then leave it for a few days and go over it with 'waxoyl' for the best finish. And if that doesn't stop the onslaught of rust, then I'm a monkey's uncle! All best done in the late summer/early autumn of course. Regular car washing including underneath really helps aswell.

[Honey Badger]

Underseal tends to dry up and cause corrosion to take a hold. Stonechip tends to last just that bit longer. At the end of the day it depends what you are expecting, if undersealing the sills prevents some welding bills for 5 years it's done it's job. A lot of people seem to expect it to underseal a car, never inspect it and it remain corrosion free for 20 years. Like anything it does require periodic inspection and maintenance.

 

When people say Waxoyl is shit etc, has anyone applied some to a rustfree car, kept it 20 years and the the cars still rot free? Or do people half arsed slap some on over some wet rusty chassis legs in February, then complain 8 months down the line that it hasn't reversed the physical process of corrosion?

 

 

6 weeks in a humidity and temperature controlled salt spray, waxoyl was blistering withing 3 days and falling off within a week. Bilt Hambler lasted the full 6 weeks with only slight lifting at one corner.

 

As far as I understand 1 week in the chamber represents a year in real life conditions. I cant say for sure as I don't work in that area.  Substrate was clean cold rolled steel with 2 coats of under body paint on zinc primer.

 

Scientific enough for you? Waxoyl is no better than rubbing a candle over the chassis. don't waste your money on waxoyl and buy a decent under body protection for only a fraction more in cost.

[Retro_Auto]

Cut the top off an empty can and look at the inside walls to judge how effective it is. 

[sierraman]

Cut the top off an empty can and look at the inside walls to judge how effective it is.

I've done this on 10 year old tins to get the last dregs out and it was like a new pin. I've Waxoyled cars and it hasn't washed off.

[MarinaJosh]

I have found actual waxoyl stuff designed as a cavity wax that is sprayed on pretty useless, but the underbody seal with added waxoyl that you brush on I have found works well.

[mrcitroen]

I used Bilt Hamber UB on my GS. Used a combination of a roller and a brush on the floor pans but needed to spray a few nooks n crannies. For brushing, it needs thinned a wee bit.

 

Sprayed it in the wheel arches. It takes several coats to get a good layer on. Bilt Hamber reccomend when spraying to spray a thin coat and leave to dry for 24 hrs, then build up coats from there. The finish is really good and smart and does not look as if thick glob has been whopped on to hide anything. Almost factory. Seems quite hardy and has not washed off.

[twosmoke300]

Used dinitrol on my Landy chassis and the wax certainly covers / creeps very well . The black top coat seems quite waxy etc too . Time will tell long term as I'm just trying to put off chassis replacement for a couple of years .