Jump to content
richardthestag

Range Rover resto - Project Southpaw p24

Recommended Posts

With Passenger front corner done, that I thought was going to be easy. Tackling the drivers side just got me ruthless with the cutting disc. A plasma cutter might have been useful but I don't know how it would respond to rust and silicon

 

post-3439-0-74123100-1482253217_thumb.jpg

 

Brace installed and measurements from sill to inside of roof noted

post-3439-0-08944500-1482253219_thumb.jpg

 

That was why the drivers door dropped a lot on its hinge then :D

post-3439-0-98083100-1482253220_thumb.jpg

 

Before

post-3439-0-25291500-1482253222_thumb.jpg

 

After

post-3439-0-33910600-1482253227_thumb.jpg

 

Sill, bulkhead side and footwell in two chunks, the rear sill body mount was connected to the rest of the sill with a wish and a prayer

post-3439-0-47684200-1482253224_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-82849600-1482253225_thumb.jpg

 

Getting good at this now so raced through inner sill and outer sill fitting confident that the repair panels were good.

post-3439-0-93270600-1482253228_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-42057200-1482253230_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-68100700-1482253231_thumb.jpg

 

Then welded with the increasingly frustrating SIP Migmate 130 Turbo pile of shite

post-3439-0-32408600-1482253561_thumb.jpg

 

Cut out remains of bulkhead side

post-3439-0-07642500-1482253568_thumb.jpg

 

Trial fitted new bulkhead side, knowing that it was in the correct place because it was bolted up to the inner wing which is an awesome pattern part but fits perfectly. Dont be so confident with the black painted inner wings, they are cheap for good reason.

post-3439-0-78977700-1482253569_thumb.jpg

 

And inner a post

post-3439-0-17122900-1482253572_thumb.jpg

 

And welding the outer a-post. I had trial fitted the door, tagged the a-post and then removed the door. The inner/outer abosts were at this point bolted to the bulkhead side so I was tripple sure that it was lined up

post-3439-0-85945900-1482253573_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-11923100-1482253576_thumb.jpg

 

Fatha thestag and little thestags strimming ready to put the cover over the next project, affectionately known as Redshed, It's red and it is a shed. This is even rougher but still very original than the car I am working on right now. Paradoxically It will involve the same amount of welding and cutting I reckon. Only the chassis needs work at the back end.

post-3439-0-15074600-1482253578_thumb.jpg

 

This blew off again 2 months later, now it is roped on properly it will keep good old redshed dry over the winter

post-3439-0-51679700-1482253583_thumb.jpg

 

Bulkhead side bolted to a post and welded to bulkhead top section. At this point and with the door in the right place I was confident to weld the bottom of the A-Post to the Sill

post-3439-0-91507200-1482253579_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-77990300-1482253581_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Footwell was a piece of piss now that I know why the repair panel is wrong.

 

post-3439-0-65117200-1482254855_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-04355000-1482254857_thumb.jpg

 

It is a shedload easier with the inner wing and bulkhead side reference points in place, Even though I measured, checked and measured again, everything seemed to be in the right place

post-3439-0-44670000-1482254859_thumb.jpg

 

This is going to be a problem though! the steering column goes through here and it is very visible when looking under the bonnet so patches wasnt going to work. Plus it is quite a complex shape

post-3439-0-95953600-1482254860_thumb.jpg

 

Scrap pile is growing as the car is lifting on its springs

post-3439-0-94717400-1482254862_thumb.jpg

 

pretty sure I would have been enjoying a beer at this point

post-3439-0-69453500-1482254864_thumb.jpg

 

Got a chap on eBay who was breaking a 90's classic and he cut out this bit for an ayrton inc P&P, what a star

post-3439-0-40111700-1482254866_thumb.jpg

 

With a little trimming and tiding of both the part and my bulkhead it fitted perfectly, aligned but the bolt holes at the top

post-3439-0-96708600-1482254867_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-54240000-1482254869_thumb.jpg

 

Strengthening plate on the inside is a standard fitment

post-3439-0-96441800-1482254870_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-89226500-1482254872_thumb.jpg

 

Half way around fuck yeah, btw this is about 120 hours in on the whole project

post-3439-0-22830500-1482254874_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks a great project. You can't beat these early three door models.

 

Weren't the really really early ones badged something else?

 

Can't wait to see more.

VELAR, we broke one years ago without realising what it was until most things didn't fit the rangie they were going on to...oh how I kick myself now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First news on this section is selling the SIP Migmate with an honest description of exactly how shit it is for a £120 on eBay.

 

Then I bought one of these https://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding-Supplies/Mig-Welder-BlueMig-150T.html

 

Oh yeah  8)

 

on the B Post, my big issue here that there was no enough - unbodged - for me to measure and work out how it should be. Firsdtly the a post tapers down before curving in to the bottom edge of the sill, this needs to follow the profile of the inner part of the rear wing. took me a couple of goes to get it right.

 

Firstly, empty the fuel tank, didnt fancy welding with it in place. And it had to come out anyway. I opted to use the cars electric pump connected to a battery to pump into the jerry can sat in the engine bay using the original fuel line. I got the Jerry can brimmed and a plastic can half full so there was quite a lot of fuel. I let the garage vent for an hour after I finished. Even though the fuel stank and was like varnish it still did a good job in small quantities lighting the bonfire.

post-3439-0-56180800-1482256361_thumb.jpg

 

The tank itself it not Land rover OEM, it is an Alan special I think. Great welding and air tight but in no way protected. I am going to probably use it again as a reminder of the last custodian of the car.

post-3439-0-26138500-1482256363_thumb.jpg

 

I then spent hours messing about, guessing what I thought the b post should look like, I decided on a two part affair, this is the inner section

post-3439-0-58068300-1482256365_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-3439-0-43320800-1482256370_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-09141100-1482256372_thumb.jpg

 

And this is Mk1 outer section

post-3439-0-89423300-1482256373_thumb.jpg

 

Which when welded in looked like a banana

post-3439-0-91621900-1482256375_thumb.jpg

 

So I cut it out and went Mk2

post-3439-0-03296200-1482256378_thumb.jpg

 

Here you can see the inner section coming out complete, drilled out spot welds down the back of the B Post, cut along the top rail which supports the rear sliding windows and cut just in front of the spare wheel carrier because a) that bit is sound and B) not reproduced on the pattern parts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welding the side floor, arch and curtain in is not a huge issue. Because the top rail was good, it is a case of lining everything up. The arch section is pressed out using a sponge I think. The rear section of the arch panel doesnt line up properly with the side floor but otherwise a piece of cake. I opted to tuck the curtain section in behind the top rail as the outer wing bolts to this surface.

 

A fair bit of room to work with, The section rear of the spare wheel support it NOT replicated on the pattern and the holes are unique to earlier Rangies so I opted to keep them

post-3439-0-03723800-1482257217_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-06958300-1482257219_thumb.jpg

 

I am pleased that I chose to rip this lot out now, what a fucking mess

post-3439-0-82572900-1482257221_thumb.jpg

 

Replacement panels slot together so it was a case of clamping them in place, checking and aligning a couple of times, pop riveting the arch to the side floor and checking again! :D

post-3439-0-66011300-1482257223_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-07310300-1482257225_thumb.jpg

 

This is the arch welded to the side floor, ready for more checks

post-3439-0-85084000-1482257226_thumb.jpg

 

And the curtain welded in

post-3439-0-12824300-1482257228_thumb.jpg

 

And tidied up

post-3439-0-55099300-1482257229_thumb.jpg

 

rear outer wing fits perfectly

post-3439-0-07266000-1482257233_thumb.jpg

 

I found out why the Rangie sits lop sided. I had an idea it would be something like this

post-3439-0-54522800-1482257231_thumb.jpg

 

Now for the closing panel, my mk2 b post isnt going to work, but it is only the rear section

post-3439-0-01297600-1482257944_thumb.jpg

 

So I cut it out and welded a flush piece to create a box section of the lower b post without a flange (snigger)

post-3439-0-62579500-1482257945_thumb.jpg

 

there is a wheel arch extension panel which protects the chassis from road debris. This fits like a glove - not holding my breath. The triangular section fitted into the gap between the curtain and the sill in front of the wheel arch section

post-3439-0-52470500-1482257947_thumb.jpg

 

this is the only bit I need to salvage from the old inner wing. It is the captive nuts for the rear seat back catches

post-3439-0-34732300-1482257949_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-44511300-1482257951_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-00110800-1482257953_thumb.jpg

 

Took a break at this point in October for my 3 lads birthdays but also because Fathathastag had the lecky overhauled in the barn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Earlier this month I managed to get a few days in Devon to move the project forward a little

 

New lighting is awesome, 

post-3439-0-42743300-1482258621_thumb.jpg

 

Next step for the passenger side is to remake the small box section that sits between the arch and the back of the b-post which the seat mounts fix to

post-3439-0-17453600-1482258623_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-52164000-1482258625_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-46964900-1482258627_thumb.jpg

 

I made up a small angled section to connect the curtain and floor to give a little more strength

post-3439-0-18236300-1482258629_thumb.jpg

 

trial fit the box section

post-3439-0-58307900-1482258630_thumb.jpg

 

Made up a small repair for the inside of the b-post where I have gone a bit mad with the cutting disc

post-3439-0-22558100-1482258632_thumb.jpg

 

And with it all welded in trial fitted the rear seat. Checking seat alignment and rear seat catches. Very happy with this

post-3439-0-72454900-1482258633_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-22928600-1482258635_thumb.jpg

 

Welded a small angle in at the base of the curtain where the spare wheel carrier sits. This will all be seam sealed and properly protected before paint but for now 3/4 done yay

post-3439-0-73745400-1482258636_thumb.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last update in this marathon posting to bring us up to date, drivers side rear quarter and b post. after this I will be done with structural body frame work and probably a snip under 150 hours. Now I have done it once I can probably shave a fair few hours off for the next time hahahahahahaha

 

As you can see a fair few patches but overall this side is better than the passenger side. still going though

post-3439-0-60270100-1482259402_thumb.jpg

 

I originally thought that I would try save as much as I could. But why bother when I have replaced just about everything upwards within 8 inchs of the sills !! Triggers new broom lives on I say

post-3439-0-91375400-1482259403_thumb.jpg

 

so I cut the whole loy out. I will try reproduce the holes at the back into the replacement curtain

post-3439-0-86750500-1482259405_thumb.jpg

 

Initially I struggled to get the floor and curtain to meet properly at the back but some hammers and mr Grinder soon fixed that

post-3439-0-69719400-1482259407_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-50465500-1482259409_thumb.jpg

 

the back of the b-post was as nasty as it looks, lots of rust and silicon

post-3439-0-46233800-1482259411_thumb.jpg

 

these patches are going too

post-3439-0-34978600-1482259413_thumb.jpg

 

The debris pile is slightly larger than it looks

post-3439-0-20053200-1482259416_thumb.jpg

 

More confident of the proile of the b-post I was able bend the rear section and weld it into place

post-3439-0-75297200-1482259417_thumb.jpg

 

Clamped and welded to the sill after quadruple checking door alignment

post-3439-0-29852400-1482259419_thumb.jpg

 

Reinforcer added to the rear because the repair warped ever so slightly on welding. Is not going anywhere and out of sight when finished

post-3439-0-33103600-1482259823_thumb.jpg

 

Inside edge 

post-3439-0-07823400-1482259825_thumb.jpg

 

this will be a repair for the new year

post-3439-0-61243400-1482259826_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-16188600-1482259828_thumb.jpg

 

Satisfied that I have got this far.

post-3439-0-82125300-1482259829_thumb.jpg

 

So that is it until Jan 17.

 

next steps are to finish this body work, then lift the body clear of the chassis. remove engine/gearbox for stripdown. remove and recon axles. Sandblast chassis then build up a rolling chassis with refurb parts. The body will need to be lifted high so I can get underneath with Mr Seamsealer and mr Spraygun before it sits back down on the mounts, Then I can finish painting the body frame but that will most likely be April/May. Lots of work to do before then :D

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

VELAR, we broke one years ago without realising what it was until most things didn't fit the rangie they were going on to...oh how I kick myself now

A mate of mine did something similar to a genuine Capri RS3100 back in the 80's when they were worthless! Hindsight and all that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brilliant thread, really enjoyed that and looking forward to more. Those early ones are the lookers of the bunch alright.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Inspiring work, looks like a lot more than 150 hours too. Previous owners really worked to keep it going with all that bodgery.

Seeing it all come apart and go back together reveals why they rot like they do. When they were new I often heard things like "last forever with that proper chassis and alloy body"

 

How are you going to stop it all disolving again?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Inspiring work, looks like a lot more than 150 hours too. Previous owners really worked to keep it going with all that bodgery.

Seeing it all come apart and go back together reveals why they rot like they do. When they were new I often heard things like "last forever with that proper chassis and alloy body"

 

How are you going to stop it all disolving again?

 

stopping it dissolving will be a struggle, there are so many natural rust traps in the design. Tougher paints are available these days which I will be exploring. I shall be using modern sem sealants and no heavy duty underseal. 

 

i looked at cold galv but that has to be done on bare metal with seam sealer over the top. Painting over cold galv is a pain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome! A good welder is a joy to use, except when you are so used to your old fucked one that when your neighbour lends you his brand new all singing and dancing thing, you can't make a decent, tidy weld for love nor money!

 

But, you seem to do fantastic work with anything at hand. I am waiting for the next instalment with baited breath - do you need to break over Christmas? It's over rated anyway and we will all be bored and need to read about this to keep us going! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Superb.

 

I did wonder what you were doing with the chassis - but fully repairing the body first before you remove it makes complete sense.

 

Chassis has a very pleasing ring to it when tapped with Land Rover special tool #1. I genuinely have high hopes for it. Looking forwards to getting spannering rather than bloody welding to be honest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Shirley Knott
      Greetings all.
       
      After lurking here for a short while, frankly liking what I see and enjoying the various shite, the site has well and truly struck a chord with me. I'm a serial buyer of ropey sub £1k vehicles, don't have to but genuinely enjoy it.
       
      I feel like I might (Just might) have found my 'spiritual' home here
       
      I've been posting across the web on owner specific forums (Usually using either my JoeyEunos or RandomPrecion handles) for a while now, but from here-on-in I will pull my threads together and merge them here into one ghastly topic.
       
      My current steeds...
       
      Lupo 1.7 SDI
       
      SAM_5560 by
       
      and the work/story so far...http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/102863-joeyeunoss-sdi-beater/
       
      Golf Mk4 SDI
       
       
      SAM_5531 by
       
      and the thread.... http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/597074-project-slow/
       
      Early (1989) Mk1 Eunos (This one was recently sold)
       
      SAM_4656 by
       
      the thread...http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=213274
       
      Other shite I've owned and moved on in the last year include this ropey Passat...
       
      SAM_6011 by
       
      and this legendary £300 Fiesta Finesse...
       
      Festa by
       
      Cars I'd like to own/actively looking for in the forthcoming weeks/months/years...
       
      Rover 75 (Dizzler)
      Peugeot 405 (XUD)
      Mk1 Octavia (Estate/dizzler, pre pd or SDI)
      Honda CRV (Gen1)
      Volvo 240/850
    • By Broadsword
      I think the Broadsword fleet has become sufficiently complicated to merit a combined thread so that gradually all new additions will appear in one place.
       
      As of Sunday 17th March the situation is interesting.
       
      Two Citoren Xantias (remember the white Xantia of Excellence is for sale people!)
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34699-w-reg-citroen-xantia-20-hdi-xantia-of-excellence-%C2%A3999/
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34596-citroen-xantia-double-madness-rust/page-2
       
      A turquoise XJR6 pending overdue-collection (need that gone now!)
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34003-jaguar-xjr6-double-madness-double-sold
       
      An XJS 3.6 manual project which will get in high gear soonish. Wont be a keeper but will be fun getting it back to something presentable. Drivers fantastic!
      http://autoshite.com/topic/34664-jaguar-xjs-36-manual
       
      A Range Rover P38, which is turning out to be really rather good.
       
      And to mix things up even more I'm off on a collection caper today. Had first refusal on it and was expecting it to come around in a year, but things soon changed and no way was I going to pass up on it. It may well render the second Xantia redundant as I've got a really good feeling about this motor.
       
      In the meantime here are some snaps of the Range Rover. As usual it was a car I said I would probably never buy due to their reliability*. I have said the same of Jag XJR, XJS, XK8 and I have had all of those now. Basically the moment I declare buying a particular car is impractical or improbable, I end up buying one.
       
      Things to note on the P38. It's a nice colour with tidy body. The EAS has been removed. It runs and drives lovely and it doesn't have enough electrical problems to hinder progress. The main one is the driver's side window not working, but that should be fixable. I've tried changing the outstation, that didn't fix it. Might be wiring under the seat. Other than that I bought it and took it for an MOT the very next day, and it passed. Since then it had what seemed like a battery drain, but since unplugging the RF thingy for the remote locking and putting on a proper lead-acid battery, which the car can actually charge, unlike the modern lead-calcium batteries, it has been perfect. I will treat it to a full service soon.
       
      Stay tuned for the latest collection later today!



    • By beko1987
      I've noticed that some people on here have imagination, and get through a wide variety of different brands of cars

      Then there's me, who after hitting the armagedden button when the 406 threw me a load of urgent work that I didn't have the time or money to perform by it's MOT obtained yet another french car!

      My car history really has been a bit samey

      Landrover Series 3 (PMA124Y)



      Peugeot 206 (W636OAU)



      Ford Puma (Y874RCB)



      Citroen ZX (R385VRD)



      Citoren XM (R267PGF)



      Citroen ZX (L592NWK)



      Citroen Xantia (R499AMV)



      Renault Laguna (YT55ENP)



      Renault Laguna (FV51FYP)



      Peugeot 406 (HY02FUA)



      2 out of 10 of the above are still alive...

      And as of tonight
      Citroen ZX (R579SLX)

      So over 11 cars, a definite pattern! But I like boring, I like samey, I like reliable*

      Current status? Well our very own Bramz7 is somewhere in the north of england (maybe even nearly scotland) delivering a car. At almost possibly maybe 4.30/5pm he will arrive in Derby and collect Bub's ZX. Following a very silent drive to my house in Oxfordshire as the ZX has no radio we shall convey ourselves to his house, and I shall drive home...

      Moar later!
×
×
  • Create New...