richardthestag Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 latest project update. Been at home over the last week or so doing home stuff. Yesterday I managed to steal some time away to go over the cars wiring loom. It breaks down into three manageable chunks,Bulkhead and front lightsRear of carEngine loom First job was to remove all additional wiring, there was a load of relays n stuff that I had no idea about.Next was then to identify damaged components and fixLastly was to clean it all and label the ends to aid me when it goes back into the car in a couple of weeks. The main part of the loom here is the bulkhead section. The engine loom and rear looms connect to it via multconnector plugs found a few in line fuses which would be well hidden behind the dash when installed. hmmmm factory job! Thats nice of them isnt it Cleaning was easy using these things identifying what wire does what was less easy mainly because a complete loom diagram for a RR is quite hard to come by. my Haynes ROM is in Devon and my expensive boughgt manual set doesnt include it. Found a plan online but needed a magnifying glass to be able to read it this shows two branches of the loom on the engine bay side of the bulkhead. before and after cleaning if you like All done Rear loom is butchered, working out next steps Engine loom has a lot of heat damaged wires Watch this space if you dare djimbob, TagoraSX, Coprolalia and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 Gotta love factory fitted hidden fuses. Normally the same ones not mentioned in any manuals etc too. djimbob and richardthestag 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momentary Lapse Of Reason Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 T'were newfangled technology for Land Rover, them thar fuzes - not too sure where to put 'em! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 T'were newfangled technology for Land Rover, them thar fuzes - not too sure where to put 'em! series IIa landie made do with 1 well 2 if you had an interior light These early Rangies had 3 fuse fusebox on the bulkhead - luxury, all 25amp blow rating which confuses lots of folk these days who fit 25amp constant rating fuses which probably blow fnarr at 35amp plus. since found another 2 behind the dash area, one is for option heated rear window and the other is for the radio feed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 series IIa landie made do with 1 well 2 if you had an interior light These early Rangies had 3 fuse fusebox on the bulkhead - luxury, all 25amp blow rating which confuses lots of folk these days who fit 25amp constant rating fuses which probably blow fnarr at 35amp plus. since found another 2 behind the dash area, one is for option heated rear window and the other is for the radio feed What are you planning to do? Leave them as standard, or run them to a more easily accessible location / separate fuse box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momentary Lapse Of Reason Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 series IIa landie made do with 1 well 2 if you had an interior light These early Rangies had 3 fuse fusebox on the bulkhead - luxury, all 25amp blow rating which confuses lots of folk these days who fit 25amp constant rating fuses which probably blow fnarr at 35amp plus. since found another 2 behind the dash area, one is for option heated rear window and the other is for the radio feed Landie owners electrical work - You've just got to luve it* (brake light switch wiring as found) chodweaver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 On the project not a whole lot has happened, big boys Le Mans, family stuff etc etc has all got in the way of any serious progress. I have been dragging lumps of loom out and tidying, wrapping, replacing terminals and stuff. all courtesy of vehicle wiring products . this got me to a problem in that a wedge of the wire ends are corroded, even under undisturbed insulation. I think that because of the hatchet job of splicing towbar electrics into the rear loom it all went a bit high resistance and while there is no sign of burnt loom the copper core has suffered. there is good continuity BUT no way is solder going to stick to this I googled and found that the ends can be cleaned with vinegar and salt, which worked but time consuming and still no solder. Eventually found that wet and dry paper on the bare strands got them shiny, followed by a dip in plumbers flux got the solder on very neatly indeed. All of these connections need bullets soldering on - all of which is conveniently 200 miles away from me This lump is the blank for the passenger side of the bulkhead where the loom passes through. to be stripped, cleaned and painted ready for it all to go back. in a nutshell the dash loom and front end loom is done and ready to fit.the rear end loom needs binding and bullets soldering but otherwise ready to fitthe engine loom has some very crunchy cables, mainly the section that runs through the engine v to ignition and temp senders etc, all of this is being cut back to where it is healthy and new wires are being spliced in. should be finished this weekend. Banger Kenny, Zelandeth, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3VOM Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 this got me to a problem in that a wedge of the wire ends are corroded, even under undisturbed insulation. I think that because of the hatchet job of splicingthere is good continuity BUT no way is solder going to stick to this20180623_170018.jpg I googled and found that the ends can be cleaned with vinegar and salt, which worked but time consuming and still no solder. Eventually found that wet and dry paper on the bare strands got them shiny, followed by a dip in plumbers flux got the solder on very neatly indeed. All of these connections need bullets soldering on - all of which is conveniently 200 miles away from meOn the project not a whole lot has happened, big boys Le Mans, family stuff etc etc has all got in the way of any serious progress.I'm wondering if some serious flux like Bakers would work (assuming you can still get it). richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 In other news the Daily has been getting some very long overdue attention wayward handling that has been bugging me turned out to be rear shocks. aside from looking a bit shit, they compress very easily, and when they pop back out again they don'd even go to the same length luckily* I had a pair of nearly new shocks on my last RR which I scrapped 12 years ago. these compress but only by me putting my full weight on them. they also both extend smoothly back to the same length each. here is old and even older for comparison. the yellow ones are going back on. Cost me nowt* ok actually cost me a B&Q special Angle Grinder at £25 because the bottom nut refused to shift on the fucked dampers and it was getting on for 30 degrees while doing this I noticed that one rear pad was getting a bit low. Also noticed this...! this is after 10 seconds of attention from Land Rover special tool #1 (and not even a big hammer or used aggressively) they went on nearly 4 years ago, still plenty of meat left on the thickness but a tap of a hammer made the outer shiny surface break away. errr New discs and hub seals ordered which arrived Tuesday, yay high 20s and disc replacement. sweated like a pig I can tell you Zelandeth, John F, djimbob and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Is that the disc crumbling? eek if so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 Finished disc install last night before the footy, here in a nutshell is RR rear disc replacement in a handful of easy steps. 1. pull pads, undo caliper retaining bolts, undo 5 bolts holding drive plate to hub (5 bolts in middle of this pic) with draw drive shaft 2.then undo the bearing nuts, big buggers that need a box spanner Land Rover special tool #2 (freely available from any landie seller worth their weight) ok this is a new disc, it was hot and I wasnt in thee mood for piccies. you can see the big nuts and tab washer that locks them 3. manoeuvre the caliper out of the way with one hand while pulling the disc and hub off the stub axle carrier with other. then rest the caliper back in place to save stressing the pipework 4. again an assembly pic BUT next you remove the ABS ring. secured by 5 10mm nylocks seen here. the ring hides the disc to hub bolts so MUST come out first 5. undo the hub to disc bolts, while they only go in at 60ft lb they are a bastard to undo. top trick, install hub into rim, the studs hold it in place while you go medieval on the bolts bang the disc with a hammer while holding the hub and they will seperate 6. clean the mating face of the hub so it is grit free, install the disc and torque it up 7. install abs ring 8. clean inside face of disc using brake cleaner. also fit new hub seal, after inspecting bearings 9. slip hub back onto stub axle. one hand to manoeuvre caliper to the side while pushing the hub and disc home. fit caliper bolts and torque to 60 ftlb, lube and install front bearing, nut, tab washer and lock nut. after a good clean of the pistons, mine need replacing. job for august lever the buggers back in using a jemmy but NOT a load of force, if they dont slide back in easily then they will hardly slip out when you press the brake pedal. 10. fit pads, driveshaft - with gasket and wheel 90mins per side, would probably work faster when it isnt high 20s and I should be in the hammock or something like that. Anyway MoT today and can haz pass, two monitor and repair if Nec for corroded brake pipes which will all be done later this year and 1 for oil leak ... fucking lol dave21478, tobyd, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 Is that the disc crumbling? eek if so. yes! worrying eh? almost like they are a 2 part process. the disc and then a hardened surface that has very clearly failed. No idea where these came from but I dont fuck about with budget parts when it comes to brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 It's not what you want to see that's for sure! Nice to see where the ABS rings are too, my Disco didn't have that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exiled_Tat_Gatherer Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 That eel-egg-trizitee stuff gives me the willies....... I have to look at a Z31 loom I've lumped into a plastic container at some point..... no-fuggin-way will it run again without help - I just know it. Excellent patience dude - are you sticking with original colouring throughout? Surely the wiring to replace all the bits, buying all the different rolls etc..., must add up a fair bit? richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 That eel-egg-trizitee stuff gives me the willies....... I have to look at a Z31 loom I've lumped into a plastic container at some point..... no-fuggin-way will it run again without help - I just know it. Excellent patience dude - are you sticking with original colouring throughout? Surely the wiring to replace all the bits, buying all the different rolls etc..., must add up a fair bit? kind of, salvaging a chunk of the correct colour code for the end bit with the terminal. then splicing in generic white / whatever and binding it. so start and end will be correct and middle section wont be seen. else like you say would cost me a smoll fortune. I also have a 1980s loom that I may strip down for component parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 not a huge amount to report. Youngest son has been on Rugby tour to Argentina and Chile. Argentina is a hole and Chile is nice was the Judith Chalmers type response I got. Middle Son and wife have been to Noo Yoik and the tri state area on a jolly. Went to pick them up from the airport to earn brownie points* and the fuggin plane landed 45mins early, I was still in bed, hungover and 20 miles and the M25 away! gah Anyway on the upside I found a nice spot in Heathrow T3 expensive short term car park. Note the photo is not blurred it was my hangover ...... joking! The starter has been sluggish for a while now but I have just not been in the mood for it. Mrs was harranging big time about stuff and the local tip. So I conceded that the easiest option was to load up the car and take it. Only the starter dies, in the driveway at home! Oh mercy at last. New items vary a lot in price. I decided to opt for the cheapest (yeah I know) Blue box option. knowing it would be blue box because Lucarse dont make them any more so all the £169 OE options will be the same as the £65 Blue box jobby I bought. I might yet turn out to be jobby Anyway ordered yesterday from Padddockspares paid £5 for express delivery and it arrived midday today yay Looks outside, hmm. ok for ducks but ffs not a drop of rain in 2 months* and it is stair rods Stopped at about 4:30 today, work finished at about the same time. Removing is nowhere near the ballsache that everyone seems to bang on about. you just need lots of socket set extension bars. From top side.disconnect battery,emove heatshield.pull 12v solenoid feed.undo 13mm nut on solenoid and remove battery feed to starter. then using 8mm hex and a 3/8 ratshit drive I undid the top starter bolt from above. bags of room and you can even see the evil bastard hiding under the exhaust manifold. Slide under the car for the second mount bolt. again 8mm hex. the extension bars are needed because the front diff and axle are in the way. If you have enough extension bars to get the ratchet in front of the axle then within 3 minutes you will have this 30 mins to get the new unit in and speedy starting is here again. will disassemble the old unit and sort out either solenoid or motor brushes - as it is Used old Stock and almost certainly repairable. stick it on the shelf or in the boot ready for the inevitable Sigmund Fraud, Scruffy Bodger, Banger Kenny and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 in project news. rebuilding the loom from the 1972 car was proving a little irksome Gin was being consumed by the pint - less walking same time to consume to 3 large G&T so fret not Mr Laptop was there because #1son was harranging me about some trip or another - how come I never go on these trips?* anyway laptop was useful at lucarse websites and Range Rover looms which changed sometime about 1973! The loom that I have is definitely pre 73 which is pleasing from the ringa perspective but I knew that already.I need to protect the investment in event of dreaded R from work. Anyway to much Gin maybe and too much agro with repairing colour coding wires correctly. I though! Gah to hell with this, I bought a 1980s RR loom from ebay for a tenner. strip it, salvage lucarse colour coded wires and connectors and yay, save millions. Alas pounds not souls an hour removing loom wrap reduced the donor to this chopped connectors off and I end up with this connectors could also be recycled, I have another of these cars to do yet* Anyway enough was salvaged to properly fix the 1972 loom. Mission achieved ! Anyone need Lucarse connectors or wire drop me a PM. I need some of this but not all of it Other jobs, the engine block fitted to the project is SD1 origin. The pistons are 9.35.1 +20 and good for reuse. Crank is spot on so I think get that up and running and sell to fund the project. Money is getting tight To clean up engine bits proper I bought an ickle hand held steam cleaner. surprisingly effective for £40 I did this in 15mins from filthy, gunk sprayed on, steam off, repeat twice This however is a RR specific timing cover, oil pump and water pump cover And the oil pump has wearage on the thrust size. thinking about this next anyone want a built or component form SD1 RV8? Sigmund Fraud and Coprolalia 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 This week started with a trip to Devon to relocate engine bits and a ton of other stuff that are cluttering up my garage and workshop at home. I was planning to paint the body frame this week, but following 2 months of 30 degrees and me needing to be 200 miles away from the project it has done nothing but fucking piss down with rain. So replanning... Gearbox rebuild seemed like a stupid thing to concentrate my time on. There are companys who will provide a rebuild box but these jobs are way the wrong side of a bag of sand. How hard can it be and what is the worst that could happen? The workshop manual makes reassuring noises like no special tools and in scope of home mechanic etc The LT95 gearbox for the early Range Rover is a 4 speed (with synchromesh) unit. The box has an integral transferbox complete with high/low ratios and a centre differential. The whole thing is fiendishly heavy. but it can be broken down pretty easily but some large sockets are needed first step was to lob some racking on the bench, there is a lot of bits Bellhousing comes off but the rest of the main casing is a single unit. I have already removed the oil pump at this point with bellhousing and oil pump out of the way, the next thing to remove is the front bearing plate that supports the forwards end of the mainshaft and layshafts. On most gearboxes these are in constant mesh. The mainshaft is still held in place by selector forks and also the transfer gear at the other end of it.Here is the layshaft it comes as a big lump. The layshaft drives the oil pump at its forward end. removing the gear selector plate exposes the gear select rods and folks. Bottom rod is for 1st and 2nd gear selection. Middle rod is 3rd and 4th and the top rod with the spring gate is for reverse. Next I need to work on the transfer box at back end of the box which is separated by a bulkhead inside the casing. Gearbox and Transferbox have their own oil supply.Luckily there are loads of access holes on the casing. Here I am looking down on the centre diff and the transferbox intermediate gears, high and low ratio This is the rear drivers side of the box, I have removed the difflock mechanism from the forward end of the transferbox that connects to the front propshaft. And the rear speedo housing that supports the transmission brake and flange for the rear propshaft. at this point the centre diff unit can be pulled out. to pull the gearbox mainshaft out I must first release this slip ring and pull the transfer gear from the end of the main shaft. And that is pretty much the casing empty and ready for cleaning Zelandeth, Scruffy Bodger, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 Top shelf is all the gear selector rods Middle shelf left is the diff lock and front centre diff housingMiddle shelf right is reverse gear gubbins from left..In plastic box is the centre diff unitthe tall upright bit is the gearbox input shaft that goes through the clutch plate and into the flywheelbehind it is the hi/low transfer gearsbehind that is the gearbox mainshaft which is sitting on top of the layshaft All the gears are in exceptionally clean shape. like the differentials the gearbox is low mileage. So it is big clean up, check tolerances and assemble with new gaskets the empty casing was thick with shit, grease and mud. gunk, wife brush and pressure washer made a good start bellhousing responded well to 10 mins in the parts cleaner as did the access covers. now the scary bit ...... how many bolts will be left over when it goes back together Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, Sigmund Fraud, andrew e and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 sup shiters! been a funny old week. started with yet another week of me feeling like shit. ended with me feeling great. happy with that, started yesterday! long may it continue In completely unrelated events. MiL had a mental stumble this morning, medics initially thought it was a stroke. thankfully it wasnt she is back to her usual self but in HW Hospital tonight and tomorrow for observation. Her blood pressure is very low. and FiL Skoda Fabia after being off the road for 5 days while I sent the failed instrument cluster for repair rewarded us by failing its MOT on Friday on silly things which I have now fixed ready for a retest tomorrow. So, with all the flim flam and shit out of the way, and those I love in safe hands. I am planning to get the car to a state where I can start it, drive it around the field and stop it - by the end of this year. Targets are needed else this could be a 5 year project. So By Friday this week I want the gearbox assembled Started earlier in the week with cleaning and assessing. This is the gearbox and transferbox casing looking forwards. there is a huge bearing at the end of the mainshaft that I wanted to remove to check normal circlip pliers are not going to do it as I found. So I bought some heavy duty Sykes Pickavant jobbies that made it easy bearing was knocked out with a drift with not too much bother. glad i did it sounds horrible. This car stood standing for many years prior to me buying. Gave the casing a deep cleanse and steam clean and the access plates then started on the innards onwards Tickman, Zelandeth, Sigmund Fraud and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Very nice. I've never been brave enough to take an LT95 apart! But will need to at some point On the road for Christmas?! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 Today aside from drama was fun. this is the centre diff lock actuator. diff lock gets you out of trouble. simple switch diverts vacuum to this device that pulls the lever and locks the front and rear props so both are driven. so long as the engine in running the diff is locked. The switch is to light the dash that it has engaged. To test, take a breath on the vacuum pipe and the fork will move. this one is stuck solid. The fork is held to the vacuum shaft by a roll pin which needs to be driven out through the switch hole like this. cleaned, tested and it all should work. need some gaskets and sealant before rebuilding. watch this space next up this is the front extension, sits inside the bellhousing and accommodates the gearbox oil pump. this chappy is a firbe ring that distributes oil along the mainshaft. there is an oil seal behind it hense it has to come out. Being fibre and £85 I was being careful by easing it out .5mm at the time behind it is the oil seal which was ripped, glad I did this now. Recommendation is to fit a viton seal So far apart from seals and gaskits the only fucked but is the mainshaft bearing Tomorrow inputshaft, mainshaft and layshaft Carlosfandango, Scruffy Bodger, Zelandeth and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Work bench? luxury! I did a LT77 on a Black n Decker Workmate in the road behind my Disco. it worked afterwards too! I had a faulty bearing on the mainshaft so when I applied power in reverse the input shaft climbed off the intermediate shaft which resulted in a slighty* jerky rearward travel. Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, Sigmund Fraud, Carlosfandango and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 On the road for Christmas?! moving and stopping under it's own power by end of year . road legal next year sometime Rusty_Rocket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyrew Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Old stock cull at work had these destined For the bin. Any use to you MrStag? 3x the smaller ball self lever joints and one of the large one pictured (a frame?). Yours for postage. richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 Old stock cull at work had these destinedFor the bin. Any use to you MrStag? 3x the smaller ball self lever joints and one of the large one pictured (a frame?). Yours for postage. 20180831_171902.jpg20180831_171830.jpg yes please, have done the a frame on this project but have another in the wings. pm'd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 brief update, dead bearing replacement arrived last week, in a blue box, £11. 3 minutes of investigation found that Land Rover spare dept want £130 for the same part. I know that there is a certain margin involved, but was nervous.Calling a respected Land Rover part supplier found that JLR no longer supply the bearing. "bluebox" is the only option. gah for a bearing that is right in the middle of the gearbox Wycombe is marvellous for engineering and part supply. High wycombe bearings in google finds an old friend. Off I wandered this morning with the OEM 45year old grumbly bearing in hand. "Yep we can do that" came the assured response at the parts counter "how can I be sure that this is not the same overpriced, made from cheese, offering that could buy for £11 from any online supplier?" i ask "err because ours is made in UK to high quality standards" is the assured response £106 inc vat so can the same bearing be made for just £11 retail sale price manufactured in China? do you know what I do not want to find out, especially when failure means gearbox out and complete stripdown to replace, Gearbox rebuild delayed until next week. This week = other stuff...... more tomorrow Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, Honey Badger, Tickman and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Daily driver has been neglected quite a lot this year. Gave it a basic service and it runs nicely but... handling has been a bit iffy for the last couple of months, rear dampers slightly improved the situation but it is not perfect. Then a Propshaft UJ started to squeak even after a squirt from the grease gun. Then on Thursday winding down the front passenger window because it was hot and a terrible clatter occurred followed by the window glass disappearing at a race of knots into the door. Luckily the glass remained intact. managed to lift it up and used tape to hold it in place. Removed the door trim and found this lot skulking in the bottom of the door, hmm that is quite rusty then. The rest of the door is in really good shape. Trust Land Rover to make a window lift channel out of bare unprotected steel. Ordered a replacement removed props and found rear prop had very very slight play in one uj, and front prop while no play was very loose. I stripped both props and stripped them down. One of the front prop ujs showed signs of heat damage. That would be the squeak then. Ordered a load of GKN UJs then cracked on with removing front dampers. Both could be compressed easily. bit like the rears. dead then, despite passing a bounce test. prodding around the inner wing (non structural) on the nearside enlarged some holes that I knew were already there. I cut a square out and pop riveted a replacement in which then with bolts etc will hold the road spray off the ignition coil and alternator. Plan is to replace the whole inner wing on both sides. UJs arrived yesterday. easily pressed in and bolted back to the car. Today decided to fit the window lift channel to the glass. lowered the window regulator and fitted the new channel, then lowered the glass onto it but couldnt easily fit the glass into the channel with the rubber insulator. so undid 5 bolts and removed the window frame. found that the channel could be opened out slightly to allow the rubber insulator and glass to be installed and then squashed gently to hold it firmly in place. With the window regulator right up the glass can easily be installed onto it, the glass even stayed obediently in place while I dropped the window frame back down into the door and bolted it back up again. test drive found that vague steering has been completely fixed. Banger Kenny, Scruffy Bodger, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Fatha thestags 1972 Range Rover has original vinyl floor coverings but no sound proofing. Plus the cover over the gearbox transmission tunnel was very very fragile and disintegrating. The rare original "hose down" front and rear footwell covers are in good shape. Nationwide trim will provide a new tunnel cover in a similar style to the original. BUT fatha thestag fancied a carpet set to complement his later fabric seats. At some point in the future he will fit kitkat style seat covers and go back to the vinyl floor coverings. set of carpets ordered from nationwide in a colour very close to the original Palomino, he also ordered up some Dynamat insulation. today, fed up with everything we decided to have a go at fitting. seat removal is dead easy in these early Range Rovers, two bolts hold the rear seat in, 4 roll pins need to be drifted out (1 from each front seat runner) to allow the front seats to be slide backwards and off the seat base. the transmission covering above looks ok but was so fragile it disintegrated as we touched it. it is now in a bin bag. no hope for it Dynamat comes in big sheets which are adhesive on one side. the sheets are flexible enough to follow contours. a small roller pressed the matting into place. I had to cut a number of small sections to fit over the trans cover. Here is Fatha thestag struggling with a screw. the language was atrocious front is all done. Haven't done the rear footwell yet because there was some moisture under the covering. I want to remove the rear floor and seal it back into place. tomorrow New Carpet cover fits into place very tidily. Only issue was that there was no hole cut for the diff-lock plunger next to the gearstick. I cut a hole but this needs to be tidied up still. Seats slide back onto the runners and are locked by tapping the roll pins back into place. foot well mats drop in, very tidy and are secured by the trim at the edge of the door opening. done for today. finish tomorrow Zelandeth, Tickman, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 Been a while since update but lots been going on. Have been made redundant, last day is tomorrow. Never again shall I work for anyone other than Mrs Thestag or myself. Bored with IT and the never ending tunnel of misery technology I am planning a significant change of career. more on that later - concepts needed provage to buy Mrs thestag in In the meantime, finished carpeting fatha thestags 1972 playcar, now that Jaaag has been sold to Hooli of this parish the Range Rover and Series IIa will get more attention. when plastic mats came out there was some dampness in the rear footwell. chose to remove the floor, which is a dozen or so screws cleaned all the hardened ineffective gloop from the surface and used this to seat the metal panels together again more sound deadening was put over the top and then the carpets test drive has proved a major reduction in transmission and engine noise! Now can hear the woofle from the exhaust. However headlights are out gah, Fatha thestag had a job to do in the drivers footwell and had dislodged the wire that feeds headlights. easily fixed but no screwdrivers at the pub Scruffy Bodger, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, Tickman and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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