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richardthestag

Range Rover resto - 1972 project - Plan B, Phase2 - Paint n' detailing... Page 22

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Sorry but I have no idea on alternate rocker covers. I am looking for a set of covers for an early 70s engine so at least it looks the part, round corners and filler 2" or so back from the corner. everything on ebay has been powder coated which I do not want.

 

No worries, if I ever find some alternatives I will have a set of the early ones surplus to requirements. They seem to confuse some people looking at it anyway "Doesn't look quite like a Rover V8 to me" I have heard!

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First up I put together another sweary summary of work done so far for them that is interested

 

 

In other news; I finally bit the bullet and got on with the doors.

 

Passenger door that I picked up in the spares deal is a real beauty

 

It is an early door, glass was etched with an L plate reg from a car deceased in the early noughties. 

post-3439-0-63740200-1547989925_thumb.jpg

 

Hinge edge is very good

post-3439-0-79579900-1547989926_thumb.jpg

 

lock edge is even better

post-3439-0-83908500-1547989927_thumb.jpg

 

spent a happy hour removing everything from the door ready for prep and paint

post-3439-0-85239400-1547989928_thumb.jpg

 

both hinges had play in them, new are affordable new and the machine screws are always* a complete bastard to remove. So I got busy with the cutting disc.

post-3439-0-86777900-1547989929_thumb.jpg

 

half an hour later both hinges and captive plates are free. hinges are scrap, plates and shims will be salvaged

post-3439-0-20252100-1547989931_thumb.jpg

 

this kind of stress crack in the outer skin on the bottom hinge is quite common from my experience, no idea why except maybe pressure from the door seal on the outer skin. 

post-3439-0-40091500-1547989932_thumb.jpg

 

weld and flat (not yet finished) and this door is done for now

post-3439-0-90540600-1547989932_thumb.jpg

 

 

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drivers door next, for some reason drivers doors in good shape are unobtainium. 

 

The original from the project car was properly fucked and also suffered accident damage that had affected skin and shell.

 

Although I have another 5 drivers doors on the project cars I am reluctant to remove any of those but do have a spare which came in the recently acquired spares stash.

 

The glass frame was already out of it, so easy to manoeuvre around.

 

Hinge edge is not pretty but the best I have seen for a while. this area is double skinned. A thin outer skin which is part of the whole single pressing door shell. and a heavy duty angled piece that fits inside the door to give it more strength. 

post-3439-0-89171000-1547990771_thumb.jpg

 

door bottom responded positively to my smoll tapping hammer

post-3439-0-61073500-1547990772_thumb.jpg

 

lock edge however is in a similar state to the hinge edge. None of the rusty mess seems to go right through both layers of steel

post-3439-0-03358700-1547990774_thumb.jpg

 

the door skin is ruined by a couple of nasty dents and an extra hole drilled through next to the lock hole. The return edge all around the inside of the door was also very crusty. These door skins are made from birmabrite (alloy) and are a nightmare to work. generally melt rather than do anything useful.

post-3439-0-10788300-1547990775_thumb.jpg

 

so no heart was lost in peeling back the edges of the outer skin to reveal the innards.

 

No surprise to see the extent of surface rust inside. where I could find paint it appeared to be primer. it will be bead blasted back to bare clean steel before the skin goes back on again.

post-3439-0-75213700-1547990775_thumb.jpg

 

On the hinge edge I drilled the plethora of spot welds to remove the rusted outer skin

post-3439-0-32593000-1547990776_thumb.jpg

 

to reveal an unpainted inner section. moisture can easily get in here and the results of that can be seen here

post-3439-0-93457500-1547990776_thumb.jpg

 

5 mins with a cup knot wheel and mr grinder had it looking quite solid. rust was treated with FE123 rust converter from Rust.co.uk. had good results with this product. then coated it with a weld through zinc primer. I will coat the inside of the door with vactan when finished

post-3439-0-51582100-1547990777_thumb.jpg

 

looking at the bit I removed from the above door and fishing around the spares reminded me of the rusty and accident damaged door shell that came from the project car. this bit don't look too bad!

post-3439-0-06914200-1547990778_thumb.jpg

 

So I cut it off, cleaned up the inside, rust treated and primed it with the same zinc

post-3439-0-68626000-1547990778_thumb.jpg

 

then butt welded it into place. Happy days. skim of filler and this will be as good as new.

post-3439-0-10059200-1547990786_thumb.jpg

 

Hinge edge will be done next week when I get back down to Devon, will use a similar approach to revove the outer skin section. Repair that on the bench and then butt weld it back into the door shell.

 

 

 

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the door glass frame is up next.

 

5 or so fixings hold the whole frame into the door shell. Glass comes out at the same time, this frame had rotted badly around the bottom corner of the quarterlight

post-3439-0-97946300-1547994391_thumb.jpg

 

these quarter light rubbers are unique to the first 2 years of production and are currently unavailable. I need to repair this one and fill that hole. any tips will be gratefully received

post-3439-0-28988400-1547994393_thumb.jpg

 

the channel at the bottom of the quarterlight hole often rots out, as does the channel which holds the rubber on the left vertical trailing edge in this piccy. this one will respond well and may well end up being powder coated

post-3439-0-91737100-1547994394_thumb.jpg

 

drivers side bits sorted for stage 2

post-3439-0-93873000-1547994395_thumb.jpg

 

passenger side bits also found. this one is from a later car (anoraks will note the different quarter light rubber) 

post-3439-0-92440700-1547994396_thumb.jpg

 

I also found that a single profile of steel channel is used throughout the construction of these frames. it is also exactly the same in shape and curvature as a 4 door glass frame which could be used to cut and shut good sections in where there is rust.

 

The only bit that might be a challenge is the channel that welds onto the quarter light side of the upright nearest the hinge edge of the frame. looks like it might be a right bastard to shape. I have a section of it which is going to the metal benders to see if they can replicate it.

 

Other bits done while I was in Devon.

 

A stroll up the field to admire centre of operations and Exmoor

post-3439-0-13532200-1547994940_thumb.jpg

 

sorted a selection of panels to go to the body shop this week for prep and paint. I have a pair of rear wings, one passenger door and front wing. looks like I will need to dig deep for a new lower tailgate and drivers front wing... ouch

 

this rear wing came apart easily and on the whole I think is salvageable.

post-3439-0-98745000-1547994941_thumb.jpg

 

Back at home work carried on

 

These 4 are the captive plates for the door hinges. they are all the same regardless of location. I have not been able to find a source for them new, though I have yet to be brave enough to ask LR dealer parts counter

post-3439-0-83731600-1547995176_thumb.jpg

 

cut the excess bolt from both sides of the plate. then drilled centre of each bolt

post-3439-0-58174500-1547995178_thumb.jpg

 

this stuff is great for maintaining lubrication of the drill bit, aiding the cut and also extending the life of the drill bits. #recommended

post-3439-0-00787200-1547995180_thumb.jpg

 

The trick is to drill larger and larger holes until the remains simply wind out under the pressure of the drill bit. Because I am going right through the piece I can use standard HSS bits and forward clockwise drill motion.

post-3439-0-95872300-1547995180_thumb.jpg

 

All but three out of twelve bolts shifted like that ^^. the others I took out as close as I dare and then worked at the remains with a centre punch and hammer until I could run a tap through. Easyout stuff was utterly useless because of the level of corrosion between thread and bolt. 

post-3439-0-16027400-1547995182_thumb.jpg

 

I generally use Bosch or DeWalt hss drills, these on the other hand were utter shit. dulled after one drilling, even with the bestobel compound. #Shit

post-3439-0-33158300-1547995184_thumb.jpg

 

after a working over in the blast cabinet all are now ready for paint and reuse

post-3439-0-27928600-1547995185_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Guest Hooli

Impressive work there.

 

As for the holy rubber, ask a cobbler. I've had the soft rubbery bits on bike boots fixed with a mix of glue and the rubber dust* from grinding replacement soles to shape.

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the door glass frame is up next.

 

5 or so fixings hold the whole frame into the door shell. Glass comes out at the same time, this frame had rotted badly around the bottom corner of the quarterlight

20190114_095709.jpg

 

these quarter light rubbers are unique to the first 2 years of production and are currently unavailable. I need to repair this one and fill that hole. any tips will be gratefully received

20190114_155624.jpg

 

the channel at the bottom of the quarterlight hole often rots out, as does the channel which holds the rubber on the left vertical trailing edge in this piccy. this one will respond well and may well end up being powder coated

20190114_155641.jpg

 

drivers side bits sorted for stage 2

20190114_160049.jpg

 

passenger side bits also found. this one is from a later car (anoraks will note the different quarter light rubber)

20190114_160448.jpg

 

I also found that a single profile of steel channel is used throughout the construction of these frames. it is also exactly the same in shape and curvature as a 4 door glass frame which could be used to cut and shut good sections in where there is rust.

 

The only bit that might be a challenge is the channel that welds onto the quarter light side of the upright nearest the hinge edge of the frame. looks like it might be a right bastard to shape. I have a section of it which is going to the metal benders to see if they can replicate it.

 

Other bits done while I was in Devon.

 

A stroll up the field to admire centre of operations and Exmoor

20190114_115249.jpg

 

sorted a selection of panels to go to the body shop this week for prep and paint. I have a pair of rear wings, one passenger door and front wing. looks like I will need to dig deep for a new lower tailgate and drivers front wing... ouch

 

this rear wing came apart easily and on the whole I think is salvageable.

20190116_104140.jpg

 

Back at home work carried on

 

These 4 are the captive plates for the door hinges. they are all the same regardless of location. I have not been able to find a source for them new, though I have yet to be brave enough to ask LR dealer parts counter

20190117_113817.jpg

 

cut the excess bolt from both sides of the plate. then drilled centre of each bolt

20190117_115342.jpg

 

this stuff is great for maintaining lubrication of the drill bit, aiding the cut and also extending the life of the drill bits. #recommended

20190117_115347.jpg

 

The trick is to drill larger and larger holes until the remains simply wind out under the pressure of the drill bit. Because I am going right through the piece I can use standard HSS bits and forward clockwise drill motion.

20190117_120528.jpg

 

All but three out of twelve bolts shifted like that ^^. the others I took out as close as I dare and then worked at the remains with a centre punch and hammer until I could run a tap through. Easyout stuff was utterly useless because of the level of corrosion between thread and bolt.

20190117_134020.jpg

 

I generally use Bosch or DeWalt hss drills, these on the other hand were utter shit. dulled after one drilling, even with the bestobel compound. #Shit

20190117_134219.jpg

 

after a working over in the blast cabinet all are now ready for paint and reuse

20190117_160803.jpg

Google Devcon for rubber repair compounds.I think Flexane is the trade name.

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I'm just catching up on this thread (currently at the start of November). However I noticed this:

post-3439-0-74754700-1539715448.jpg

 

Same bottle I was using. I've now upgraded to that BOC deal for £60 p/a rent and £40 refill. The bottle works out 5x more gas than those hobbywelds. I'm still on the same refill despite doing a lot of welding recently.

 

I guess it depends how much welding you are doing on if it's worth it due to the yearly rent. However you can return it earlier and get it prorated back.

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these quarter light rubbers are unique to the first 2 years of production and are currently unavailable. I need to repair this one and fill that hole. any tips will be gratefully received

attachicon.gif20190114_155624.jpg

 

Maybe try Sugru? Failing that perhaps blobbing sikaflex(other polyurethane adhesive/sealants are available) into the voids and smoothing off artistically with a finger.

These 4 are the captive plates for the door hinges. they are all the same regardless of location. I have not been able to find a source for them new, though I have yet to be brave enough to ask LR dealer parts counter

attachicon.gif20190117_113817.jpg

 

Given the number of these you're doing it might be worth thinking about making a jig, then you can just wang it under a pillar drill and get the remains of the screws out quick smart.

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I'm just catching up on this thread (currently at the start of November). However I noticed this:

post-3439-0-74754700-1539715448.jpg

 

Same bottle I was using. I've now upgraded to that BOC deal for £60 p/a rent and £40 refill. The bottle works out 5x more gas than those hobbywelds. I'm still on the same refill despite doing a lot of welding recently.

 

I guess it depends how much welding you are doing on if it's worth it due to the yearly rent. However you can return it earlier and get it prorated back.

 

I recon I used two of those hobbyweld bottles for this car, one leaked out because, well just because grrr, I have just started on my third.

 

when this next bottle is done I will chat with the lads up wellyweld barnstaple about the BOC option. cheers for that

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I have an early lower tailgate  in my workshop. From memory its just the bare panel and was generally good apart from some light rust on the lower frame. Although the last time I looked at it was about five years ago, so may have deteriorated. 

There are also some other early parts, off hand a bumper, radiator grill, plastic sill trims and probably a few other small items.

Bought them years ago in a job lot of Series spares.

If your'e interested in anything, let me know and I'll get them all together this week.

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it's been a bit chilly this week!

 

I have been getting irritated with the blast cabinet this week. mainly because it hast been spectacularly shit at blasting. so drained and sieved the media and found this lot!

 

why is there a load of broken screen glass in there? Oh I used the vacuum to clear up after my shenanigans with Mrs TheStags i10 and then dumped the contents into the blast cabinet. Huge Kin DOH! 

post-3439-0-66381100-1548616677_thumb.jpg

 

I managed to clean up and get working original tools from the 1972 tool roll.

post-3439-0-04638300-1548616679_thumb.jpg

 

spare headlamp surrounds, hmmm not quite so pretty but not bin fodder. I have a couple of other sets that need cleaning up prior to powder coating

post-3439-0-65180000-1548616680_thumb.jpg

 

rear tailgate numberplate flap next

post-3439-0-70013400-1548616681_thumb.jpg

 

had remains of a previous id underneath. I like history stuff even though not associated with this car

post-3439-0-73433400-1548616682_thumb.jpg

 

expansion tank looked nasty

post-3439-0-84429900-1548616684_thumb.jpg

 

after cleaning back old paint etc

post-3439-0-85295800-1548616685_thumb.jpg

 

ah! but it is still sound. will reuse

post-3439-0-78185800-1548616686_thumb.jpg

 

another drain and sieve of blast media further improved cabinet performance

post-3439-0-00664700-1548616688_thumb.jpg

 

door hinges that had good pins cleaned back well. now in for paint

post-3439-0-29147400-1548617076_thumb.jpg

 

rear light quarters less so

post-3439-0-37152800-1548617077_thumb.jpg

 

drilled spot welds out and salvaged original panel for a template which I will cut this week

post-3439-0-89861000-1548617078_thumb.jpg

 

edge of the remains cleaned up nicely which I am happy with.

post-3439-0-47119300-1548617080_thumb.jpg

 

door shell from passenger side which I was happy with had a buggered skin, too much filler and dents to warrant it staying on the shell. Removed and found shell covered with surface corrosion which I had blasted back and epoxy coated

post-3439-0-42258000-1548617081_thumb.jpg

 

happy with that, new, very expensive* skins arriving tomorrow for unity and paint this week

post-3439-0-56843800-1548617082_thumb.jpg

 

a chums heater unit is coming along nicely, the shell is now complete with new flap foams etc. just needs brushes for the motor and an hour and it is done

post-3439-0-58268100-1548617083_thumb.jpg

 

Been busy in the blast cabinet this week.

post-3439-0-63497400-1548617626_thumb.jpg

 

I pulled apart a keep fit window regulator to find out why they can be such an arse

post-3439-0-76170100-1548617084_thumb.jpg

 

cleaned up shit, restored and repaired. took me an hour for something that can be replaced for £30 but I would rather keep original.

post-3439-0-42715000-1548617627_thumb.jpg

 

door catches are unobtainium but easy enough to clean and repair

post-3439-0-59622000-1548617628_thumb.jpg

 

rest of this week was about me understanding Valeo locks and stuff.

post-3439-0-39551400-1548617629_thumb.jpg

 

One key for ignition, doors and hopefully petrol flap

 

Yay. thanks for reading

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weeee update for this week.

 

been a bit nippy

 

a pair of brand new Land Rover supplied door skins arrived on Monday. this one for passenger door was dropped to mr paintman, then off to Devon before the big snow forecast for Tuesday evening 

post-3439-0-14815700-1549050833_thumb.jpg

 

Happy to find Tammy and her mum Tidy 'Orsez back in the field. Waiting patiently for apples in exchange for guarding the 4 new rusty hulks

post-3439-0-10690100-1549050834_thumb.jpg

 

unwrapped treasure from various suppliers

post-3439-0-94196700-1549050834_thumb.jpg

 

fitted front dampers, fuel filter and then realised fuck up of welding the fuel filter mounting too high on passenger wing. undecided yet but cannot be arsed to unpick the bracket, reweld and re paint. so coil may just have to live on the wing top which is where it is balanced here,

post-3439-0-78415500-1549050835_thumb.jpg

 

snow came as predicted from the south west. Horses happy enough with hay,carrot and apple supply

post-3439-0-78355300-1549050744_thumb.jpg

 

using original as template I cut out replacement rear light closing panels

post-3439-0-85990500-1549050745_thumb.jpg

 

then had a play with my new toy, swager (jenny) machine. love it

post-3439-0-77881500-1549050746_thumb.jpg

 

learning on the job, this is the first, second was better

post-3439-0-86254800-1549050747_thumb.jpg

 

plug welded, my welder has a number of issues, gas stays running on randomly sometimes, plus wire weed needs to warm up before it starts to behave itself. 

post-3439-0-89520500-1549050748_thumb.jpg

 

flapped back and reasy for prep n paint

post-3439-0-07635900-1549050750_thumb.jpg

 

next up drivers door

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back on to the drivers door fix, phase 2... which is about fixing the hinge edge

 

this is what it looked like, I have drilled out remaining spot welds

post-3439-0-81355100-1549051891_thumb.jpg

 

cut out, underneath is more surface rust than terminal rust. happy

post-3439-0-15906000-1549051893_thumb.jpg

 

weather continues to amuse

post-3439-0-91843800-1549051893_thumb.jpg

 

making up a pattern for the rusty skin removed from the door

post-3439-0-80495900-1549051894_thumb.jpg

 

after playing with the swager and shrinker I get to this

post-3439-0-41339500-1549051895_thumb.jpg

 

trimmed it so I can clamp it to the door shell, 

post-3439-0-45476600-1549051896_thumb.jpg

 

door shell and old skin are clamped up and the repair fits well. Very satisfied with this

post-3439-0-53108300-1549051897_thumb.jpg

 

just one area that needs adjustment, easy fix for next time

post-3439-0-40560100-1549051898_thumb.jpg

 

Last job for today was to gather a complete set of seats and frames for Nationwide trim visit early next week

post-3439-0-12355100-1549051899_thumb.jpg

 

done!

post-3439-0-09158000-1549051900_thumb.jpg

 

Next week, Visit to the powder coat lads in Wycombe for door window frame and handles etc 

Trip to the midlands for trim and parts 

back down to devon to finish off the drivers door so it is ready for paint, rebuild gearbox loom (which is more brittle than I recall) fit gearbox cover, repair and paint seat box support thingies.

Sort fluids out for gearbox, transferbox and engine. fit exhaust and get it started...........

 

watch this space

 

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Mid Feb update 

 

I need to get something more suitable to use as a van. Poor old Rangie :( this is a complete* set of seats, door glass frames and various other bits that are going back home with me. I dropped the seats at Redditch Nationwide Trim for an expensive retrim gah and then popped up to Cannock to see "the old bloke next door" for some real treasure in exchange for a wedge of folding 

post-3439-0-70376800-1550250664_thumb.jpg

 

Back at home got a set of door internal handles and grips cleaned ready for powder coating

post-3439-0-84587100-1550250666_thumb.jpg

 

the old coating was more plastic and in the main fell off so was well worth doing

post-3439-0-90055800-1550250667_thumb.jpg

 

Original set of Lucas horns (hi and Lo tone) that show signs of hooting one again. 

post-3439-0-78771700-1550250668_thumb.jpg

 

Spare and ruined unobtainium petrol cap was pulled apart to establish if I can re manufacture

post-3439-0-77831400-1550250669_thumb.jpg

 

Aside from the mangled lock and general misshapen look of the relic, also had holes drilled all over the place 

post-3439-0-78277500-1550250670_thumb.jpg

 

It took some effort to get it apart, but apart it came... eventually. what I have now I think could be used to start looking at remaking them. Also now know how to access the lock barrel so I can complete the one key thing

post-3439-0-96858600-1550250671_thumb.jpg

 

Back down in Devon, welded the new repair panel onto the door

post-3439-0-97178400-1550250672_thumb.jpg

 

after flapping there were a couple of areas that surrendered to my auto centre punch tool. very good at finding thin metal. I cut out the thin section and welded in a replacement. 

post-3439-0-92501500-1550250673_thumb.jpg

 

finished. off to my blast for a shot blast and zinc primer. Then on to the body shop to fit the skin ready for me to test fit to the car.

post-3439-0-12396500-1550250675_thumb.jpg

 

more coming up

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while in Devonshite had a phone call from Nationwide trim about some missing bits from the seats that I had dropped off.

 

When the lever on the seat is lifted the seat back flips forward but also the seat slides forward to ease access into the back for a bit of hows yer father or whatever. 

 

From 1973 a spring was added to pull the seat forward when the lever was lifted. Anyway two brackets were missing from the seats at nationwide but it was not clear which two. So I had to get a complete set. Plus a complete set of the trim pieces that go around the rear corners of the seat base. 

 

I have a pair of spare front seats, this was a drivers seat. as you can see the outside edge of the seat base has entirely dissolved.

post-3439-0-12339300-1550252488_thumb.jpg

 

This label was still attached to the seatbelt, Masai red was on the colour list throughout the 1970s, the spring on the seat base makes the seats post 1973, the trim makes the seats pre 1979. brackets that I need were the same throughout

post-3439-0-56118400-1550252490_thumb.jpg

 

salvaged this lot, the seat back foams are unobtainable, I also managed to get two of the missing brackets required + one of the rear corners

post-3439-0-01053000-1550252490_thumb.jpg

 

This is the almost ready for the scrap pile, pile from that drivers seat

post-3439-0-20901600-1550252489_thumb.jpg

 

the passenger seat from the same car, same style of retrim and cover done in the style of the original appeared in better shape. It was still quite rusty but did yield the brackets to make up a complete set + another two corners. One further corner was robbed. They have a steel frame and are covered in padding and vinyl trim. I still have a pair to make patterns from.

post-3439-0-72064200-1550252491_thumb.jpg

 

Body shop man gave me the skinned up passenger door shell to check that it still fits the car. without hinges or any other rear panels this is a bit of a challenge. I did push it into the door aperture on the car and was delighted to find that it touched the door seal retainers all the way around. Nice even gaps at the top also. The door is now painted and in the unit waiting for hinges before I can hang it. I will put on my finest cotton gloves to install lock and levers etc into it ready for them hinges

post-3439-0-52823200-1550252492_thumb.jpg

 

Van* again loaded up for the trip home. 

post-3439-0-27756400-1550252493_thumb.jpg

 

oem used old stock window regulators fully understood, repaired and now work really easily. old grease seemed to be the issue with making them as tight as a penguins arse in a snowstorm

post-3439-0-32738900-1550252494_thumb.jpg

 

Heater unit that I am building up for the chap who sold me the more recent 4 projects. just needs brushes and one clip and it is good to go

post-3439-0-33174800-1550252495_thumb.jpg

 

fitted sign up that Fatha thestag had made up for me. Sits outside the centre of operations in High Wycombeshite :)

post-3439-0-40902300-1550252496_thumb.jpg

 

And there's more...

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final update for now.

 

Bits back from the powder coaters, lovely jubely 

post-3439-0-26533400-1550253662_thumb.jpg

 

door window frames are "well nice", even though the top edge pitted during blasting they got them looking like new

post-3439-0-39000600-1550253663_thumb.jpg

 

can't wait to get them fitted to the doors, but the doors need to hang from the car first

post-3439-0-45997100-1550253664_thumb.jpg

 

shot blasted some round corner rocker covers ready to go on. This style is correct for an early 70s rover v8 and will go onto the car despite having a late 1970s Range Rover block fitted. at least it will look right :)

post-3439-0-12769300-1550253665_thumb.jpg

 

I found a company to make up new PAS hoses, using an original set as patterns, they come in at 1/3rd the price of a set from Land Rover.... LR wanted near £400 for 3 flipping hoses.

 

Here was a minor conundrum, two PAS fluid reservoirs. the item on the left came off the project car I am working on. The item on the right has been borrowed from the bobtail.

post-3439-0-88158300-1550253665_thumb.jpg

 

The item on the right is correct for a LR. No idea where the other came from originally, maybe p6? investigation ongoing

post-3439-0-54669900-1550253666_thumb.jpg

 

Original Lucas Type M45 starter bench tested beautifully. much smoother than the smoller more modern Bosch units that I am used to with my 1990s Range Rover.

post-3439-0-20506500-1550253667_thumb.jpg

 

Still pulled it apart for a full service, brushes look ok so have gone back in. Will test prior to fitting to the car this week for the grand starting up ceremony* 

post-3439-0-91943300-1550253667_thumb.jpg

 

OEM PAS pump is next up. I have a seal and gasket set to fit

post-3439-0-55968600-1550253668_thumb.jpg

 

comes apart really easily

post-3439-0-18118100-1550253669_thumb.jpg

 

Looks to have run dry at some point but is within tolerances.

post-3439-0-72971600-1550253669_thumb.jpg

 

was worried about the bush bearings in the casing. Machine shop suggest that it should be ok with heavy PAS fluid. It is worth reassembling and testing it out. Any untoward noise and I will replace it. Trouble is that these old Holbourn Eaton pumps are a bugger to find these days

post-3439-0-35809100-1550253670_thumb.jpg

 

Back in Devon now, so pub tonight and then onto engine work tomorrow!!

 

wcpgw

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Do you get your blasting and powder coating done locally to Wycombe?

 

Do you know a rough cost? Been toying with getting a hoover or two done, but have no idea of what I'd have to save, nor how much it would cost to colour match something (it could be sprayed though rather than coated)

 

Nice car m8 too!

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Do you get your blasting and powder coating done locally to Wycombe?

 

Do you know a rough cost? Been toying with getting a hoover or two done, but have no idea of what I'd have to save, nor how much it would cost to colour match something (it could be sprayed though rather than coated)

 

Nice car m8 too!

 

yes

 

a company called sprayblast

 

google sprayblast high wycombe and they come top of list

 

Unit 2/Fairfield Works/West Wycombe Rd, High Wycombe HP11 2LR Phone01494 530854

 

getting all the bits done 2 door frames, all inside handles etc etc worked out at about £90 +vat

 

Tell Clare, Richard from Church House Classics sent you :D

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Looking great.

 

I've been thinking I've getting a shrinker/stretcher set and a bead roller.

 

How do you find using the shrinker? Both look like they are a bit kackhanded.

 

I was hobby mode when I bought the shrinker/stretcher, bought one body with 2 sets of jaws. means a bit of fiddling to change the jaws between shrinking or stretching

 

piece of piss to use. try a strip of scrap steel and you can have fun. I mount mine in a bench attached engineers vice. doesnt need much more. floor mounted expensive kits are not owned by me. :D

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bead roller I bought for £238 inc

 

https://www.cjautos.eu/BEAD_SWAGER_ROLLER_p/mw03a.htm?CartID=1

 

fkin brilliant bit of kit, again mounted in a vice. play with scrap steel. 

 

find myself avoiding floorpan repair panels in favour of sheet steel and 20mins on this..

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latest.....

 

Busy pair of weeks, last week had uncle Ian helping out, stripping down terminally rotten panels for anything that might be salvageable

 

I continued with getting the engine prepped for the big start up, oil pump primed using a drill and adaptor through the distributor hole

post-3439-0-00829500-1551389409_thumb.jpg

 

finished off all 4 corners of brakes, fitting brake back plates and double checking absolutely everything

post-3439-0-11525500-1551389410_thumb.jpg

 

pulled the least rusty exhaust sections of exhaust and fitted up. the front "y" section comes in 3 parts and to fit with the gearbox crossmember in place it had to be teased apart. bit of a ballsache but got there.

 

This is only for test, new middle and rear mild steel* system will go on as I have no idea of the internals of the silences on this lot

 

*mild steel sounds smoother than stainless

post-3439-0-07745700-1551389411_thumb.jpg

 

lower tailgates with external lock handles come in a number of styles. the key differences are around whether the rear numberplate flaps down when the tailgate is down or not. this one is in excellent condition but is for a newer car. marked out the holes that need to be cut. will get onto this soon.

post-3439-0-00896100-1551389412_thumb.jpg

 

Saw this beauty outside the pub. minty mcmintface. sounded sweet too

post-3439-0-68247000-1551389412_thumb.jpg

 

next day, finished some repairs on the drivers door after it had been blasted. ended up getting bored chasing holes so cut out large sections, made me nervous working close to the new expensive birmabrite door skin. Softly slowly catchee monkey worked out well. checked fit in the body frame and had it shipped back to Steve the Body....work genius

post-3439-0-61800800-1551389413_thumb.jpg

 

Unc Ian ripping apart a seriosuly OLLI'd passenger door. managed to recover the entire inner frame, lock, hinges and captive plates and also to big chunks of corner on the outer skin. all valuable treasures

post-3439-0-86063500-1551389414_thumb.jpg

 

I did weld up the holes for self tappers to hold carpet to the lower tailgate. still need to cut out the numberplate flap holes. putting it off for no particular reason, now I am back in Devon and the tailgate stayed at home because car was full

post-3439-0-89120500-1551389415_thumb.jpg

 

recovered a pair of early steel rear bumper corners which are good enough to use.. BUT I want to get them to a metal fabricator first to get patterns made. 

post-3439-0-73050200-1551389416_thumb.jpg

 

finally had all the bits and in the same location to connect up the clutch slave cylinder hydraulics.

post-3439-0-18242600-1551389417_thumb.jpg

 

topped up the master which is difficult / impossible to pour into using anything larger than an eggcup. and the fucking master cylinder leaks from the bottom of the reservoir.

 

Gaaaah

 

More coming

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bored with clutch hydraulics I converted all my efforts into getting the engine to run.

 

wired up a cheapo series sidelight as an oil pressure warning light. wasted an hour pissing around with an electric gauge to find that the sender is fucked. but not before it registered 45psi which is bang on.

 

post-3439-0-72591400-1551391348_thumb.jpg

 

set distributor roughly at tdc on #1 cylinder. Used an old lawn mower petrol tank as a gravity feed, only take about 1/2 a litre of pez but good enough to get it running for a couple of mins.

 

set up a 12v coil running straight from the battery

 

hotwired the starter solenoid and too my surprise with no choke nor throttle, because not yet connected....

 

https://youtu.be/nz_oMNCvW3I?t=1259

 

Well chuffed with that.

 

back at home, fitted new brushes to the heater motor on a friends unit. tested it until the 12v dc charger burned out. doh

post-3439-0-75386200-1551391349_thumb.jpg

 

fitted to the reburbed heater unit and tested thoroughly. good to go

post-3439-0-28425300-1551391353_thumb.jpg

 

attempted to repair clutch master with solder and failed. damn

post-3439-0-70052300-1551391350_thumb.jpg

 

Air filter housing needs blasting back and then powder coating. all came apart nicely. 

post-3439-0-75865200-1551391351_thumb.jpg

 

invested* in an eastwood powder coater. I have an old domestic oven. will let you know how it goes when it gets used this weekend

post-3439-0-68555200-1551391352_thumb.jpg

 

cleaned off all the solder and then went at the base with a centre punch.. gently.. oh

post-3439-0-76392000-1551391353_thumb.jpg

 

Original Radiator from the car, date stamped 2005, appears ok but bottom bracket had come adrift. cleaned back ready for solder

post-3439-0-39842000-1551391354_thumb.jpg

 

easy stuff. passed the smoll hammer test. going to bolt it into the car this weekend and fill up the cooling system for ongoing engine setup. chances are a new rad will replace it and this will stay as my test unit for cars to pass along the production line

post-3439-0-50544600-1551391388_thumb.jpg

 

horn units reassembled and working, need to fine tune the tone still but ready for paint. etch primer and satin black to follow

post-3439-0-90181300-1551391355_thumb.jpg

 

almost there, but they are in High Wycombeshite and I am not 

post-3439-0-20901300-1551391389_thumb.jpg

 

clutch master issue was resolved with rust treatment, clean back and then a metal* epoxy resin to coat the base. it works for now. seeking out a better replacement in the meantime

post-3439-0-88488500-1551391389_thumb.jpg

 

Picked up another big chunk of painted body panels from the paintshop which are now in Devon ready to be attached to the car. 

 

This week fitting up the passenger door, fine tune engine, check gearbox, fit and test overdrive, fit propshafts, fit fuel tank and fuel lines. should keep me busy

 

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Glad to see you got the Eastwood gun - I have had one for ages and you can do a job equal to that of the professionals, albeit limited by the size of your oven.  I get my powder from https://www.powderbuythepound.com/ but there is probably somewhere more local to you for supplies.

 

Eastwood used to do an improved tip for that gun but they no longer list it on their site - I will get a picture of mine for you as you can easily modify it yourself.

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