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richardthestag

Range Rover resto - 1972 project - Plan B, Phase2 - Paint n' detailing... Page 22

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jobs to do on my daily, mainly focus on wbod winter prep. but also since fitting new dampers and prop UJs the car had a very horrible growl that comes in at various road speeds. quickly discounted engine because it was not dependant on revs.

 

Started on the front dampers, the bushes are half the size of the outgoing dampers. BUT the stub on each end of the damper is not log enough to accommodate bigger bushes. messed about with washers n stuff to get the rubbers to be more effective at insulating front axle. 

 

Test drive made no difference.

 

So I decided to move onto rust treatment while I pondered.

 

VACTAN is the stuff. Although I had the angle grinder out dont worry I didnt use it

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view rearwards of the rear axle and chassis

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drivers side chassis rail over the rear axle

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wire brush did the stuff, you need some rust for vactan to work properly

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passenger side rear of chassis. no nasty holes

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sprayed vactan on using a spray gun but probably should have thinned it slightly. but it did the job, will get a photo of the less rusty chassis tomorrow. just realised that I do not have one.

 

Back onto vibration I removed the front prop, no issues with UJs but did find play in the transfer box front output flange that the prop bolts onto. 

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Luckily it can be easily removed, a dozen bolts and the nose is on the bench complete with the centre diff unit. the bearing is shot. I have a spare housing which is good but no oil seal. more tomorrow.

 

Next up was to sort the cooling system. I know two core plugs are poor, BUT also there is a damp area under the thermostat in the engine v. Removed heater hoses and thermostat housing cleaned it all up and then reassembled with new hoseclips and gaskets.

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Underneath one core plug is accessible, one less so without exhaust removal, not happening at the mo

 

15 seconds with a pry bar and a 2lb hammer had this

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spot the daylight

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new plug installed with a smear of sealant

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inaccessible coreplug was cleaned and smeared with metal putty. Next time the exhaust comes off I will install a new one

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what you cant see it?

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finish the daily fixes tomorrow then onto painting the project :)

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Range Rover 93 Daily cooling system is holding. no more vibrations nor nasty noises.

 

so back on to the project, pretty much full time job for me now since Wednesday :)

 

First up is to address an ickle problem in that Land Rover have two Davos White paint codes. one is a creamy ivory colour and the other, correct for a 1972 car, is paper white. Guess which I used first time around. LRC 240 is the correct code. gah

 

Anyway at least it gave me a chance to remedy the brush strokes from the 4-1 epoxy primer that I laid down.

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also there was a load of brackets to weld on, rad top mounts, brake pipe brackets and fuel filter on the nearside inner wing

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went inside for a cuppa, dropped my hat on the table and look what the cat did ... didn't have the heart to shift the poor old sod

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this bracket is for the bottom rail that sits between the two inner wings at the front end. Land Rover were never mm perfect but it pays to line stuff up etc

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Thursday was a cracking day, spent most of it welding and prepping the inner wings for paint on Friday

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Meccano style made it easy to bolt up the front end, most of the bits I am working on is at the front end between the headlight boxes. This is all to do with the radiator supports

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fixed the old rad into place

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welded the bracket

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double checked, spot the mini spirit level :) and finished the welding

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filled with confidence I made up bottom brackets for the radiator. for some reason these were not in the kit

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Fitted up inner wings to the chassis, and celebrated with a beer

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Need to widen the slot for the bulkhead side panel which also doubles as a drain hole. red pens are useful at reminding me of this sort of stuff

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looking good, lets pop the rad in and measure up where the holes go for the lower mounts

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then remove the nearside inner wing, drill the top radiator mount and re weld it. gah

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Never mind you live and learn. half an hour later and it is back together again.

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Plan was for paint on Friday. not spray painted anything in nearly 35 years ....

 

 

 

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Friday paint day ... approached with anticipation

 

I could still get celly but fancied a go on clear over base. 

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re mastering a paint gun took a little while, best to start with a very thin tack coat and then leave for 10 mins before another coat etc etc Base dries to a matt finish, I found next coat was good to go on when I started to see bits of matt finish coming through. 

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two inner wings and a bulkhead to paint, loaded up with 300ml of paint at the time which was more or less 2 coats. Paint runs are dabbed out with plastic gloved fingers and then waft paint again. bear in mind I am painting engine bay and not Mona Lisa

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Took me most of Friday, learning, wiping clean, starting again BUT after 8 coats of base and bugger all flatting, may need to look into that next time round, 4 coats of clear. with both base and clear there are some pretty intense smells so I use my face mask. but not air fed or anything fancy like that

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Today, fitted everything back to the chassis, definitely for the last time this time

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Everything fits and bolts up nicely

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next in is the pedal box and brake servo. I need to make sure that the steering column support also goes in at this point. Bulkhead hole needed gentle* adjustment to make it fit. but nothing that meant getting welder or paint gun out again :)

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Steering column in next, happy with this stage, while fiddly I love putting things back together again

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ready for covering up until I am next back down here, taking a load of stuff back home with me to rebuild at home. watch this space

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the 'Orses approve, one more than the other 

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latest update from the weekend and today.

 

needed the press to install the mainshaft bearing into the gearbox, will build the gearbox next week when I am back at home. Should be a laugh

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The LT95 gearbox has access panels all over the place. this view is from the underside of the box and looking forwards, the big hole at the bottom is for the transfer hi/low gears

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pressed in, I forgot to bring the giant circlip with me but that can be fixed when at home.

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Next up, welded the fuel filler tunnel onto the inner wing

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welded it in from the side that will be hidden by outer panels. this inner wing and filler is visible from inside the boot area

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then sanded back the rough coat of epoxy primer that I painted on to stop the rustage. the repair panels had a black coating on them. It is important to remove this before painting as it does not always stick to the metal.

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Spray painted epoxy primer, which sticks like the proverbial to a blanket, in the back of the car are rear floor supports and heel-board. I dropped the heel-board onto the extension lead and without thinking grabbed it.

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it managed to slice right through the brown and blue insulation but didnt blow a fuse. Not sure how I managed to avoid the shock !

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Today spent an hour or so tiding all the little welds and blobs up around the drivers door frame. stripped the a-post back to bare steel. no rust now. will paint and skim filler over the welded joint. Also need to fit the door seal channel tomorrow.

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then onto the rear tailgate "goalpost". untouched aside from removing the rusted top splash channel. still to be remade and fitted. Lots of surface rust and a few smoll holes to deal with. Knot wire wheel on angle grinder made short work of paint and rust

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This bit is at the top of the frame where the roof bolts onto it. The recess is unique to early Range Rovers and a key identifying component for a genuine early car - (rather than a rusty 1980s pay n' play "olli" wreck wearing an earlier ID to save a quid or two on road tax). With paint out of the way it is interesting that many separate components make up this area. I have no idea why.

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previous owner had welded very heavy lumps of steel to the base of each side of the goal post. This area can be seen from inside the car and it wasn't pretty

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cut out the repair, inside is ok but is crying for some rust treatment which I will get

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welded in a replacement panel which is now flush. Skim of filler over the joint and it will never been seen.

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this is the drivers side upright, pretty much where the upper and lower tailgates meet. the channel is for a rubber seal. it needs to come off first, quite why it needed so many spot welds I have no idea. gaaaaah

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Butt welded a repair into the carfully cut hole

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refitted the salvaged rubber seal channel and made up some new sections where it had rotted out

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treated the bare shell to rust converter, two more bits to weld on this tomorrow and then paint, then fit it to the car.

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This week I need to have the whole body frame finished and painted ready for the next stage which will be fitting up.

 

I am planning to have a go at painting the roof panel, if the worst happens I just soda blast it clean and send it off to the paint shop to do it. Want to have a go myself though because it will allow me to fit side windows and screen also.

 

This is going to be a fun week

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Today

 

Cut out big patch from rear frame

post-3439-0-71039800-1539715445_thumb.jpg

 

welded in something that will look smooth with a tinsy skim of filla

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Welded up the front side. welding going beautiful, happy and good musak on the radio

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then I run out of flippin gas :D

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I was planning to cut this out but all the steel around the holes was solid. no idea.

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plugged it and flapped it flat again

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more epoxy primer was ordered but failed to show today. I had enough to do the inside of the frame so it can be fitted tomorrow

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while it was drying and I was enjoying the fumes I welded in the door seal channel to the drivers door frame

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found the gearbox rear hub housing - that the rear prop and hand brake attach to :)

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finished up with a heavy coat of rustbuster 121 paint on the rear cross member

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Lost a couple of hours today getting gas from Barnstaple. Hope that flippin epoxy primer shows up tomorrowz

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Made good progress today. Exhausted supplies of knot wire wheels and sanding disks. but done and ready for final prep and epoxy primer tomorrow. Weather is good so I might even get a coat or two of top coat on.

 

Today main focus is on passenger side frame

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first rear goalpost fitted. bolted up. Crowbar is to lift the frame so that the mounts can be installed

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all bolts in place but yet to be tightened

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Roof panel reinstalled and 4 of the thousand* screws installed to confirm alignment to the frame. Goalpost now bolted up tight

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now onto main task for the day! get rid of this coating that doesnt really stick to the steel

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Nylon prep wheels make redistribution of the black coating easy* ... to the inside of the barn in a nice satisfying thick layer of dust.

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Door seal channels next

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good day and all ready for tomorrowz

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Fantastic......... gotta be happy with the way it's looking so far. 

How's the daily driver coping? Not throwing toys out of cot in a fit of jealous rage?

 

I am well chuffed and living the dream doing this stuff.

 

Daily driver is running well at the mo. the front prop has a slight imbalance which is slightly irritating me, moved it one more tooth on the splines which were reassembled the same as they came apart. Test it on saturday when I return home. 

 

Daily is in need of front inner wings which I will treat it to very soon. the rest is solidtastic

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today... at last first layers of topcoat!

 

OMG what already? I don't hear you all shout at me :)

 

This morning I finished off prep and gave the areas to be painted a wipe down with panel wipe.

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3 coats of epoxy primer were laid on using a 1.8mm gun and 45psi. This paint is very thick

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stoneguard was applied over the top of the epoxy on the rear inner wing area.

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a lot of what I am painting will be covered up with trim and stuff. So I have not gone mad for a mirror finish that I could read a book reflected.

 

Door shut faces are visible as are a-post up the sides of the windscreen and pretty much the whole b-post.

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After a load of flatting back and many wipes of panel wipe I got ready to do the top coat

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one dusting / tack coat of base followed by two coats today. 

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most of it has gone well but here I have some weird tiny fish eye. the temp was dropping rapidly though.

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will flat and add more base tomorrow. looking at another 4-6 coats then clearcoat it.

 

edited

just realised that I missed one place on the old seam seal - nearside rear wing by the spare wheel well. gah, do that before paint tomorrow 

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Hmmm. Tempted to just stick with petrol and limit the mileage.

 

I use the bike for work anyway, so my driving is mostly just tatting about locally. It would be nice to get a bit closer to 18mpg than 14, mind! I think my S3 does 18-20, which I find pretty bearable.

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Paint is one of those jobs that just cannot be rushed. I found this years ago. 95% of time is prep 5% is lobbing the paint on.

 

yesterday first couple of coats of base but then I just wasnt happy with some of the imperfections, so most of this morning was spent filling, flatting, seam sealing, flatting, filling and you guessed it .. flatting

 

Hedgehog came out to find out what all the swearing was about

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Another 6 coats of base went on

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waiting until the previous coat started to matt before laying another coat on. I worked my way around the car and filling the gun pretty much constantly 

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final coat of base is on and still wet hence the shine.

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need to wait 2 plus hours now for the base to go off, here is an interlude with two rescue horses in the field. they like apples

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Clear coat is nasty stuff so face mask and gloves are essential. had to fiddle with gun as this stuff dries a lot quicker so can be laid on thicker.

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4 coats of clear. well chuffed with this. in all, including front inner wings was 4 litres of base/thinners 50/50 mix and about the same of clear/activator

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I'll let the piccies do the talking

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Hmmm. Tempted to just stick with petrol and limit the mileage.

 

I use the bike for work anyway, so my driving is mostly just tatting about locally. It would be nice to get a bit closer to 18mpg than 14, mind! I think my S3 does 18-20, which I find pretty bearable.

 

you should get more than 14 from a 3.9, depends on how heavy your boots are, how many of the calipers are sticking, how worn the cam is etc

 

LPG is ok but the car runs sweeter on Pez.

 

Swapping the timing chain on mine made the world of difference to its running but gave no useful increase in economy

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Yours is looking  8)

 

No obviously sticky calipers, and I have a pretty relaxed right foot.

 

I've bought it a new Bosch coil (right one) to replace the Valeo, and will probably try a set of plugs as well as leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm.

 

Are these leads any good?:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-Discovery-3-5-3-9i-i-V8-09-89-12-98-BOSCH-IGNITION-SPARK-LEADS-B831/153196024807

 

I'm going for NGK BP6ES plugs, unless you think different?

 

Other daft questions:

 

Do I need to change / upgrade the ignition amplifier?

I'm going to strobe the timing as well - 6 btdc a good starting point?

 

Sorry to hijack your thread  :?  Please do reply on mine if it makes things neater!

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Update for the last week. lots of ickle bits done. 

 

Gearbox first, I hope to have the main and layshaft installed and sealed in so the box can go back into the car on my return to Devon later this week. 

 

First giant circlip needs installing to hold the big mainshaft bearing in place. Calls for giant circlip pliers

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piece of piss, oil seal went in next

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Checking the layshaft drag here, needs to be 2.7kg or slightly more. here it is .5kg so shims needed

post-3439-0-76010900-1540840177_thumb.jpg

 

turned out to be a bit random but I think that I found a way to at least estimate what I needed

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Here is a vid to save me typing up the method

 

naturally removing fine 3/16 unf bolts from a million year old alloy casing is going to result in fucked threads despite much care and never exceeding 20ftlb of tightening torque

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drilled and helicoiled

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so I ordered a couple of shims and am still waiting for them, Chased this morning and they had to back order some but will ship today for delivery in next 48h watch this space

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in the meantime.....

 

Big box of carefully sorted bolts and shims were lobbed into the tumbling vibrator. :D I found that there are only a handful of standardised fixings throughout the body and interior to am happy to just clean this lot up, assess and order replacement where needed

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crimped bullets onto the loom

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condemned the fuel pump. yes that rusty crap did come out of it and was magnetic.

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looked at the clutch slave cylinder which is newish with clean insides

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pulled apart the fuel filter, nasty mess

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and renovated the alternator

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had a family function to go to in Belfast with Mrs and #1 son

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The morning after

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was supposed to be in Devon welding stuff mid this week but because of raging manflu (mrs thestag says man up) I am still at home.

 

Fatha Thestag doesnt want my germs anyway.

 

So 

 

Made a video on the LT95 mainshaft and how it works

 

Managed to get the shuttle to shift out of the brake balance PDWA jobby. 100psi of air pressure and a hankie to catch it as it flew! fnarr. Was then able to clean it up, identify that it is exactly the same part as is fitted to a Stag and avoid "Green Oval" tax on new seals for it.

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stripped down the clutch slave, the bleed nipple was stuck, heat and gentle stilson action saw it free

post-3439-0-30065600-1541243219_thumb.jpg

 

seals fitted and fit for service, once I install a new bleed nipple (they are in a box in Devon)

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glass blasted the fuel filter cap, looks nice

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but inside was a horror story, luckily I had a spare that responded better

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Next up the heater unit

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today I fitted all the brake lines for the front end.

 

Ok I need a couple of fixings and some copper washers but it is 90% there

 

My office this week, and the best therapy known to me anyway

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I hung onto the old bulkhead brake lines, not because I wanted to use again because they are very old copper but to use as a pattern for new 3/16 Kunifer lines

post-3439-0-19677500-1541446196_thumb.jpg

 

confident of the fit, I used one line and made a pattern from the new material 

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then when it fitted I used it to make a twin, securing them to each other with a wind of tape

post-3439-0-21670900-1541446198_thumb.jpg

 

then trimmed to length and made up the ends

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next up the front brakes. 

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I fitted my homemade brackets made to design of the originals and then attached the flexies. and trimmed the rigid hoses to langth and fitted the unions

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then bolted up the nearside front caliper and repeated pipe manufacture

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all in place and waiting for a couple of unions which I can fit tomorrow maybe wednesday

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because I hadn't painted the front hub brackets they have to come off again to be painted gah. Project Management fail. 

 

onwards

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been a busy week, good fun though.

 

refitted both side window rubbers and gubbins to check fit. New bottom channels ordered for the sliding window bit.

post-3439-0-29424900-1541786360_thumb.jpg

 

The flap is part of the rubber seal and hangs over the joint between the body frame and outer rear wing panel. 

 

New window rubbers are available at £350 + VAT for the pair. as the reast of my seals are in good order I think I will work out how to repair what I have

post-3439-0-38196400-1541786361_thumb.jpg

 

Cross member needs to go back in, but chassis rails close up slightly

post-3439-0-46900100-1541786362_thumb.jpg

 

old hydraulic ram from a broken trolley jack did the job beautifully

post-3439-0-40891700-1541786363_thumb.jpg

 

Gearbox cover needs attention

post-3439-0-53338700-1541786364_thumb.jpg

 

cut out rust and old repairs and welded in new steel which has got surface rust

post-3439-0-56767100-1541786365_thumb.jpg

 

ground back the welds and happy with that. will be covered up with sound deadening and flooring

post-3439-0-39673000-1541786366_thumb.jpg

 

other side was less rusty, again removed the patches and butt welded in a repair

post-3439-0-06719400-1541786367_thumb.jpg

 

found out why my welder is gobbling gas, the seal on the torch connector was broken. 

post-3439-0-53267500-1541786369_thumb.jpg

 

last bit to weld in

post-3439-0-13676700-1541786371_thumb.jpg

 

Removed all the solid bitumen underseal, not surprised to find surface rust under it.

post-3439-0-14187400-1541787013_thumb.jpg

 

treated with a rust converter

post-3439-0-88587900-1541787013_thumb.jpg

 

scrap pile of bits I cut out

post-3439-0-51511000-1541787014_thumb.jpg

 

seam sealed 

post-3439-0-13761500-1541787015_thumb.jpg

 

coated with epoxy primer, ready for stone guard

post-3439-0-62758800-1541787015_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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bolted the crossmember onto the chassis rails. 

post-3439-0-73238500-1541787552_thumb.jpg

 

Fitted the repaired cover into the car and located bolts into holes, need to line up where mounting holes need to be drilled. 

post-3439-0-86421400-1541787554_thumb.jpg

 

found that the bulkhead in the drivers footwell doesnt quite line up with the cover

post-3439-0-89961700-1541787555_thumb.jpg

 

adjusted it with a mallet

post-3439-0-83488900-1541787556_thumb.jpg

 

used a prep wheel to get all the old paint off, then repeated rust converter, and seam seal

post-3439-0-49336400-1541787557_thumb.jpg

 

epoxy primed, ready for topcoat at a later date

post-3439-0-59104200-1541787558_thumb.jpg

 

 

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in other news

 

I cleaned up the transfer box rear output housing. It contains the speedo drive and supports the transmission "hand brake"

 

Parts cleaner did the job well as usual. I occasionally scrape the oily layer off the surface inside the tank. Needs doing again big time but the cleaning ability is still strong with the solution that is in there. Leaves a nasty rash if it touches skin!!

post-3439-0-22516600-1541792639_thumb.jpg

 

removed the internal components which are all good, the speedo drive is tight in the housing. Soon fix that

post-3439-0-42126300-1541792640_thumb.jpg

 

ready for reassembly, just need an oil seal

post-3439-0-30779600-1541792641_thumb.jpg

 

Drivers door next, the hinge end is not pretty

post-3439-0-48412100-1541792643_thumb.jpg

 

peeling the skin back is easy

post-3439-0-46370700-1541792644_thumb.jpg

 

drilled spot welds and removed the internal brace, next up is to shift the hinges which need drilling out

post-3439-0-47005500-1541792646_thumb.jpg

 

lots of oil and lots of very hot "indestructible" drill bits later

post-3439-0-50021200-1541792645_thumb.jpg

 

yeah, these have not been apart for a while then!

post-3439-0-43331300-1541792647_thumb.jpg

 

drilled more spot welds and removed the strengthening plates from the hinge end inside the door. There are lots of layers of metal and none of it seemed to have any surface protection

post-3439-0-77775100-1541793340_thumb.jpg

 

not a lot left of this end of the door shell. Irritatingly I have 5 passenger doors including a brand new shell. BUT only one drivers door. gah 

post-3439-0-99489200-1541793341_thumb.jpg

 

the lock/catch end of the door has some accident damage at the bottom corner. Should be able to beat it out

post-3439-0-82620700-1541793342_thumb.jpg

 

the bottom edge is not the worst I have seen but also is not the best

post-3439-0-89852800-1541793343_thumb.jpg

 

Land Rover have reproduced a complete door, it is the wrong side of a bag. I need a door skin which will need to me made from pattern by a local metal bender and then make up some complex repair panels. Can I do it cheaper?

 

watch this space

 

 

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