Jump to content
richardthestag

Range Rover resto - 1972 project - Plan B, Phase2 - Paint n' detailing... Page 22

Recommended Posts

Been a busy 6 months on my old Range Rover that I own 50/50 with Fathathastag

 

Bit of background first..

 

We bought it March 2015 just as genuine early Range Rovers were starting to get noticed. Alas not early enough that we could have got it for a couple of hundred quid. 

 

The car had been owned for decades by a Land Rover enthusiast and this particular car retained a lot of features unique to pre 1973 Range Rovers. Sadly he died a few years back and the car was left outside the front of his house. 

 

I spotted it on eBay and arranged with the owners widow to view. There were no bids and my offer was good enough to take the auction off.

 

The engine had been part way through a top end strip down when work stopped, I had no idea even if the car would move. But rented a trailer and relocated it from Watford to North Devon where fathathastag has a barn suitable for storage.

 

post-3439-0-45184400-1482240805_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-36750600-1482240806_thumb.jpg

 

The project is on the right, we towed it into the field and pushed it into the barn

post-3439-0-45674400-1482240807_thumb.jpg

 

In May 2015 I got to do an assessment of the car. body wise most outer panels were ok, the inner wings looked ok, it clearly needed some work but was unsure how much at this point. main objective was to see if the engine was a runner.

 

post-3439-0-68372900-1482241011_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-81773200-1482241012_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-24292200-1482241014_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-39181700-1482241015_thumb.jpg

 

Found that the gearbox and axles were original to the car, but the engine was from an earlyish SD1

 

while the seat covers are not original some of the plastic kitkat seat coverings are underneath, the rear seat especially

 

post-3439-0-92598800-1482241116_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-86338800-1482241117_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-79508600-1482241118_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-36132900-1482241119_thumb.jpg

 

The head has some nasty corrosion very near the fire ring seal, 

 

post-3439-0-31261600-1482241120_thumb.jpg

 

When I refitted the head one of the bolts tore the thread out. bastard but not entirely uncommon with the alloy blocked RV8

 

post-3439-0-39533800-1482241304_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

rolling forwards to September 2015 and I got it running

 

After fixing the broken thread, and refitting the n/s head

 

post-3439-0-56979700-1482241618_thumb.jpg

 

Then removing sediment and varnish from the float chambers

 

post-3439-0-18441000-1482241615_thumb.jpg

 

giving up on finding the homemade immobiliser that stopped the retrofit fuel pump from working

 

post-3439-0-50179800-1482241616_thumb.jpg

 

Then finding that the ignition was miles out

 

post-3439-0-71723100-1482241617_thumb.jpg

 

It started and sounded real sweet

 

post-3439-0-63629400-1482241619_thumb.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do like these early Range Rovers - there is one 'on the road' near my in-laws, over by Erith/Belvedere. I think it is actually in running order as it is parked on the street, it's quite tatty but it has the charm of a 'working' vehicle. Never stopped to take a closer look...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Then I left the project for 9 months until June 2016 when I started on strip down and body refurb.

 

At this point I was planning to tickle the welder a little. omg how wrong was it.

 

Stripped the interior out, note the unmolested dash and original vinyl floor coverings

post-3439-0-24708800-1482242346_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-45148700-1482242366_thumb.jpg

 

As the doors would need lots of work, I stripped them down in situe. wanted to use them as a reference point anywaypost-3439-0-30294500-1482242501_thumb.jpg

 

Alloy boot floor was already loosely fitted so removed

post-3439-0-92719200-1482242502_thumb.jpg

 

Fuel tank is homemade and very robust. I will probably stay in the car

post-3439-0-97702700-1482242503_thumb.jpg

 

Strip down is starting to make me nervous at the sheer number of patches

 

post-3439-0-94512500-1482242504_thumb.jpg

 

I then started on the front end.. Most bolts undid without drama which was nice. the rust was not quite so nice

 

post-3439-0-50154700-1482242687_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-81041700-1482242713_thumb.jpg

 

I opted to remove the loom, a to protect it but also to allow me to remove the add ons and chocbloks

post-3439-0-41839800-1482242716_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-99145100-1482242717_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-38798100-1482242719_thumb.jpg

 

The loom for dash and front of the car is out, 

post-3439-0-45025400-1482242886_thumb.jpg

 

This left the interior stripped out. I left the screen in as a) it is already chipped B) I am collecting spares and c) there was only me on my own

 

post-3439-0-90980100-1482243043_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-43707400-1482243045_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-59104000-1482243046_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Weren't the really really early ones badged something else?

.

You may have seen prototypes with "VELAR" badging, it was simply to disguise the car and never intended for production.

Supposedly the name came from the description "Vee Eight LAnd Rover".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I nervously started on the front inner wing. On these early Rangies they bolt on. This one had a very thin weld holding it to the bulkhead.

 

Alas the wing wasnt looking quite as salvageable as I first hoped :(

post-3439-0-31791000-1482243258_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-81367500-1482243259_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-28461300-1482243261_thumb.jpg

 

Bolts removed and thin weld cut and the inner wing is off

post-3439-0-92328800-1482243262_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-25170900-1482243264_thumb.jpg

 

And it is fucked

post-3439-0-34381800-1482243460_thumb.jpg

 

Ummm

 

post-3439-0-44186000-1482243265_thumb.jpg

 

That footwell is very patched

post-3439-0-03242900-1482243459_thumb.jpg

 

 

It really didnt take much effort to just peel it away. the repairs were solid but they were welded over rust which had continued to rust. Bugger

post-3439-0-64319200-1482243461_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-60891600-1482243462_thumb.jpg

 

Count the layers of patches - there should be two layers here

post-3439-0-72713000-1482243463_thumb.jpg

 

This is the footwell out. It weighed over 20kg

post-3439-0-57454600-1482243465_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next up is to remove the cab floor and gearbox cover. Most of the fixings were roof bolts with square nuts but most of them shifted

 

post-3439-0-70316600-1482244201_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-68655800-1482244202_thumb.jpg

 

Chassis has a pleasing ring to it was tapped with Land Rover special tool #1

post-3439-0-82249100-1482244203_thumb.jpg

 

I will get away with localised repairs to the gearbox cover which is nice

post-3439-0-75573000-1482244204_thumb.jpg

 

but this isnt, and yes that is bathroom silicon sealant, fecking tons of it

post-3439-0-72351400-1482244205_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-84787800-1482244206_thumb.jpg

 

Drivers side sill I knew would need attention

post-3439-0-94089800-1482244207_thumb.jpg

 

The front inner wing on the drievrs side is unpleasant

post-3439-0-40509200-1482244209_thumb.jpg

 

Patches over patches. nursed from one mot to the next

post-3439-0-73913100-1482244210_thumb.jpg

 

The bulkhead side is as I expected unfortunately

post-3439-0-27154600-1482244212_thumb.jpg

 

The inner wing is worse than the drivers side

post-3439-0-67342600-1482244221_thumb.jpg

 

Oh dear

post-3439-0-17802000-1482244223_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I promised myself that at this point it had to start getting better soon! I committed to avoid any further bodgery and get the body frame back to factory spec. While Alan the previous owner was a very good welder his lack of rust proofing and copious use of bathroom silicon sealer had condemned the fate of the lower 8 inches of the body frame all around. Ouch

 

This is what remained of the bulkhead side

post-3439-0-16342200-1482245031_thumb.jpg

 

The a post had many layers of patches

post-3439-0-87773200-1482245032_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-23580000-1482245034_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-62420500-1482245035_thumb.jpg

 

Removed the remnants as you can now buy a complete bulkhead side repair panel

post-3439-0-11968300-1482245038_thumb.jpg

 

thats better :D

post-3439-0-51091400-1482245039_thumb.jpg

 

After removing the patches there wasnt a huge amount of a post left. again repair panels are available. Also I wasnt happy with the sill, a home made heavy duty box section. mainly because it wasnt going to fit with the other repairs. also it had been welded on wonky so it was going to get cut out

post-3439-0-29770700-1482245041_thumb.jpg

 

braced the roof between the chassis and a bross beam

post-3439-0-49113700-1482245042_thumb.jpg

 

and cut it out.

post-3439-0-92501200-1482245043_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-33479800-1482245045_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-84877600-1482245054_thumb.jpg

this is the remnants of the panel that sits behind the b post. again patches over patches

post-3439-0-42936500-1482245056_thumb.jpg

 

It does start to get better from here :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The sills come from from Froggatts Easy On panels, perfect fit

 

Inner sill bolts via mounts to the chassis

post-3439-0-41272500-1482245886_thumb.jpg

 

Outer sill goes over the top and then is checked against the gearbox cover and rear passenger floors for alignment. all the bolt holes were mm perfect.

 

post-3439-0-38998200-1482245888_thumb.jpg

 

Then pop rivet the two together and weld the bastards

post-3439-0-50794800-1482245890_thumb.jpg

 

refit and check alignment

post-3439-0-29935200-1482245892_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-76328200-1482245893_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-25164200-1482245895_thumb.jpg

 

Happy days I am making progress :D

 

Made the final cut on the a-post, it was nasty but the top half is very solid. repair panels are available form Froggatts again.

 

post-3439-0-63495200-1482245896_thumb.jpg

 

refitted door to check alignment

 

post-3439-0-91396600-1482245897_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-16973800-1482245899_thumb.jpg

 

Refitted the remains of the bulkhead side for alignment and used a jack on the bottom hinge to get it where I wanted.

post-3439-0-73589200-1482245900_thumb.jpg

 

checking and checking again before welding

 

post-3439-0-05767900-1482246397_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-80595700-1482246492_thumb.jpg

 

salvaged and welded the bonnet release catch onto the new bulkhead side panel

post-3439-0-06542600-1482246494_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-29750500-1482246495_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-52031400-1482246496_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-73130100-1482246497_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may have seen prototypes with "VELAR" badging, it was simply to disguise the car and never intended for production.

Supposedly the name came from the description "Vee Eight LAnd Rover".

 

Is this true? I only ask as every time I've read anything on early Rangies and the prototype 'VELAR' moniker, the response to the 'What does it mean/stand for?' has always been that it doesn't mean'/stand for anything, it was just a plausible name someone made up using the letters from LAND ROVER that sounded a bit snappy (& maybe a bit exclusive/trendy???) and didn't have any associations with LR (or BL at the time). 

I actually hope you are right and it does stand for something rather than being a bland meaningless name.

 

Always liked the original RR's ever since the dad of a friend had one when I was a nipper. Never really like the four door ones. Should have bought one some years ago when they were cheap but had no need for a: 4WD, b: V8 or c: V8 4WD! - regretting it now. Good luck with the resto.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hooray for repair panels that fit! It is coming together nicely now - after a rather frightening start.

 

What an interesting thread - I do like the Range Rover. Bizarrely, when I was a child I genuinely believed NASA's Lunar Rover was made by Land Rover - and could never understand why they didn't make more of it! :shock:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeez, that's kwality bodgework you're undoing there. I wish there was a law banning people from car ownership if they are caught using silicon sealant, bridgeagap, pop rivets where there's should be welds and general ruinage of vehicles. Having said that, I'd have been arrested several times during my late teens.

Is it finished yet?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are lots of theories about VELAR origins. IIRC the company was registered in Croydon to further throw off then scent. The VELAR were indeed made using Alvis and Rover lettering the A was an inverted P6 V with a bar added

 

V eight LAnd Rover is one theory

Another is that VELAR is Spanish for a Veil.

 

An extraordinarily high number of the original Velars have survived and go for very strong money indeed, aim for 6 figures and you shant be disappointed.

 

LR didnt take long to get the concept right. The first two had more or less captured with profile and the 3rd prototype had a lot of the detail in lace. Alas none of these three survive

 

#1

post-3439-0-01506900-1482247988_thumb.jpg

 

#2

post-3439-0-71106700-1482248009_thumb.jpg

 

#2 and #1 together

post-3439-0-68771300-1482248022_thumb.jpg

 

#3

post-3439-0-46100300-1482248036_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeez, that's kwality bodgework you're undoing there. I wish there was a law banning people from car ownership if they are caught using silicon sealant, bridgeagap, pop rivets where there's should be welds and general ruinage of vehicles. Having said that, I'd have been arrested several times during my late teens.

Is it finished yet?!

 

nope it is a way off still, reckon it should be getting there by June 2017

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was really struggling with shitty wire feed and over all control of my old SIP Migmate 130, get a weld going and the voltage would randomly fluctuate to the wire feed causing burn back and all sorts of other shite. I got more and more fed up with the damn thing.

 

This was strong and the hammer of doom could not flex it but it looked shit

post-3439-0-49441700-1482248524_thumb.jpg

 

So I cut it out

post-3439-0-87803300-1482248525_thumb.jpg

 

Made up a repair

post-3439-0-14958500-1482248527_thumb.jpg

 

Butt welded it in

post-3439-0-53180700-1482248528_thumb.jpg

 

Made up the leading edge

post-3439-0-02257600-1482248530_thumb.jpg

 

Welded and smoothed it in 

post-3439-0-32855600-1482248531_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-84718800-1482248532_thumb.jpg

 

And am much happier, sliver of filler and it will be hidden. As a bonus the door shuts great with no shims and the gaps are even all around.

 

post-3439-0-90201700-1482248654_thumb.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On to the floor pan. The big problem here is with the qualitay of the pattern part. 

 

In Range Rover circles anything painted black is a pain to fit, Froggatts are going through and reproducing a lot of stuff but there is a wedge of stuff that is difficult to work with.

 

An example in case is the foorwell. the repair has the strengthening ribs which is good.

 

post-3439-0-75845800-1482250613_thumb.jpg

 

But it also includes a chunk of the bulkhead side but not in the way that it was originally manufactured. So that has to be removed.

 

Then the lip has to be folded 180degrees

 

post-3439-0-67974300-1482250615_thumb.jpg

 

Then you are pratting around with profiles. The profile against the bulkhead side is good. But the profile where it meets the trans tunnel is not. and when you get that right there is no longer the flat area to fit the bulkhead mount.

 

Arghh

 

Days of farting around with this but I can now do them in a couple of hours

 

the key was making up a wooden former for the inner section and bending it, here you can see the difference in profiles

 

post-3439-0-01231600-1482250617_thumb.jpg

 

With the profiles sorted I was able to clamp the bulkhead mount to the footwell 

post-3439-0-75352100-1482250618_thumb.jpg

 

Checking inside and out

post-3439-0-14518900-1482250620_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-61819800-1482250621_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-92242100-1482250622_thumb.jpg

 

Before fitting my brand new Easy on Inner wings, expensive but because you know they are correct, they can be used as a reference point

post-3439-0-48732900-1482250624_thumb.jpg

 

Then welded the body mount and tightened that to the chassis

post-3439-0-83175400-1482250625_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-49689300-1482250627_thumb.jpg

 

The inner wing bolts to the bulkhead front and side and also the body mount

post-3439-0-60113400-1482250638_thumb.jpg

 

The sill is attached to the footwell using screws and spire nuts

post-3439-0-81258600-1482250639_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-38925400-1482250641_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-29223400-1482250643_thumb.jpg

 

Yeah one quarter solid again

post-3439-0-92026200-1482250644_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hooray for repair panels that fit! It is coming together nicely now - after a rather frightening start.

 

What an interesting thread - I do like the Range Rover. Bizarrely, when I was a child I genuinely believed NASA's Lunar Rover was made by Land Rover - and could never understand why they didn't make more of it! :shock:

 

Bloody hell - so did I !!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Shirley Knott
      Greetings all.
       
      After lurking here for a short while, frankly liking what I see and enjoying the various shite, the site has well and truly struck a chord with me. I'm a serial buyer of ropey sub £1k vehicles, don't have to but genuinely enjoy it.
       
      I feel like I might (Just might) have found my 'spiritual' home here
       
      I've been posting across the web on owner specific forums (Usually using either my JoeyEunos or RandomPrecion handles) for a while now, but from here-on-in I will pull my threads together and merge them here into one ghastly topic.
       
      My current steeds...
       
      Lupo 1.7 SDI
       
      SAM_5560 by
       
      and the work/story so far...http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/102863-joeyeunoss-sdi-beater/
       
      Golf Mk4 SDI
       
       
      SAM_5531 by
       
      and the thread.... http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/597074-project-slow/
       
      Early (1989) Mk1 Eunos (This one was recently sold)
       
      SAM_4656 by
       
      the thread...http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=213274
       
      Other shite I've owned and moved on in the last year include this ropey Passat...
       
      SAM_6011 by
       
      and this legendary £300 Fiesta Finesse...
       
      Festa by
       
      Cars I'd like to own/actively looking for in the forthcoming weeks/months/years...
       
      Rover 75 (Dizzler)
      Peugeot 405 (XUD)
      Mk1 Octavia (Estate/dizzler, pre pd or SDI)
      Honda CRV (Gen1)
      Volvo 240/850
    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.



      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.







      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...






      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.





      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...



      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.



      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...














    • By Fat_Pirate
      I thought I'd start a thread on this.  I presently love this car but history has proven me fickle aand easily distracted, so I expect I'll want to move it on at some point.  Doing it this way also ensures no comeback from future owners when they find out I've attached the wheels with silicon sealer, etc.

      Lot of flash for a grand, I think you'll agree.  I picked it up from the pleasant Mr Xtriple last Tuesday, and have already put a thousand miles on it (including 500 in Norfolk at the weekend, and 200-odd around Gloucester yesterday).  As you'd imagine, wafting about in a convertible with a whispering V6 up front is absolutely awful,.  I did get a light metallic scraping noise from the NSR wheel for a bit, but the caliper wasn't sticking and it went after a while so meh.
      There are a few issues to fix.  Most pressing was the passenger door, which wouldn't shut without a heavy slam.  I found the door glass was rising to high, and interfering with the A-pillar seal.  

      There's quite a lot of scope for things to get out of kilter on the windows and hood on these things, but thankfully it's all adjustable.  The stops for the window are adjusted by winding down the window, then removing 3 bungs on the underside of the door.  This exposes bolts to adjust the position of the front and rear stops, with the middle one adjusting the angle of the glass against the seal.  Getting it right is trial and error, it's not quite right but does now shut correctly.  There's also a fault with the rear window, a clip that stops it rising too high has broken so it can collide with the front window if you're not careful.  Not sorted that yet.

      The hood often needs a helping hand to retract it (and to prevent it slamming down on the windscreen frame when closing it).  The issue appears to be the tension cables on the front folded section - these are supposed to hold it in a raised position, to allow it to fold up.  This doesn't always work so the pump runs but is unable to draw the hood back.  The tension on these cables can be adjusted, and it's pretty straightforward job, but it does mean taking the roof down for a couple of hours and I've not been able to trust the weather recently.  If there's no adjustment left on the cables it's not too difficult to replace them, but they cost £80 each (and there are 2).

      The roof release handle is a bit broken too, this is a common problem.  Xtriple's mechanic has made a temporary repair but I may revisit it, there is a DIY fix using a C-clip apparently - else it's £700 for a new roof rail.

      Steering wheel is quite worn, and off-centre.  I find that very annoying and will get the alignment fixed soon.  Dunno what to do about the wheel, upholsterer perhaps?  The driver's seat bolster is also coming apart at the edge, again they all do this so finding a good used one is pretty much impossible.

      I was unimpressed by the factory audio, despite it having a fancy remote control.  Putting in my kit was easy though, standard ISO harness so took about 5 mins!  

      Unfortunately the speakers are shot, ruining Stuff Like That.  The forum bike Jag had the same issue, just age I suppose.  I've got speaker adaptors on order so I can fit some decent ones.

      This is the car's best feature, this engine is superb.  It absolutely makes just the noise you'd expect, a gentle whine yet gives brisk performance and an average of 29mpg.  It does leak a little oil though, enough to mark the drive but hasn't required a top up.  Will investigate.

      Pirate HQ is now well furnished with CLKs.  My wife has had this facelift one for a couple of years and I've always admired it, but not the raucous 2.3 supercharged motor.  It's slightly slower and slightly better on fuel  than the V6 but above 3000rpm it's horrible - it sounds like the CVH from a '80s Escort and ruins the whole experience.  Most of them seem to be blighted with that motor though, perhaps the cost difference was large when new.  Mrs Pirate now wants the wheels and engine transplanted into hers.
      Final problem is the ABS/ASR/BAS light coming on at random.  Others have suggested this is the battery getting weak, which is a bit of a worry - I'm leaving it in an airport car park for a week tomorrow.
    • By danthecapriman
      Thought I'd start a thread about my old Capri since it's now reached it's turn in the que to receive a bit of attention.
       
      I've actually had this since 2001, it's an early mk2, on an M reg 1974. Being an early car it's still got mk1 rear axle and single acting type rear brake set up aswell as a few other minor differences from later cars just to use up remaining mk1 parts.
      It started life here in the Portsmouth area and doesn't seem to have ventured far since.
      Originally a stardust silver 1.6 L poverty model, which means virtually sod all regarding luxuries. Basic 2 pod dash with black 'crackle' finish facia, no radio, no sun roof or vinyl roof, not even a centre console!
      When I got to it unfortunately it had suffered severely from serious rust and latterly a vandal attack, having it's door and rear quarter panel booted in.
       
      Over the next couple of years I got it sorted and a cheap re paint into roman bronze, which was a favourite colour of mine at the time. For the first year or two it seemed fine but since then things have deteriorated.
      The respray wasn't good! It's thin in places and started to micro blister in various places, worst of which is all over the bonnet. The same bodyshop also did a bit of the bodywork I hadn't finished which was also pretty poor in some places.
      It's always been a great driver and never struggles at mot time so I just kept on using it and doing nothing more than collecting parts now and again with a view to sort it one day.
      It's also gained a few non original extras over the years like a higher spec wood effect 2 pod dash facia (which I like more than the original), a short console, brown interior instead of the utterly fucked black original, 'laser' 4 spoke alloys and a few other things.
       
      Anyway, fast forward to last weekend, when I dusted it off after winter and noticed various areas of new rust coming through or older rust that's gotten worse. So the decision was made to go for a professional resto job now before I end up finding something else to distract me (like big american cars with knackered engines!).
       
      1974 Ford Capri BBK244M by Dan Clark, on Flickr
      Here it is as it currently stands. Looks ok from a distance but the reality is very rough around the edges and the paint is so bad in places it's becoming embarrassing!
      IMG_0509 by Dan Clark, on Flickr
      And the interior which I'll be re trimming into black leather at some point after the body works done.
       
      It's been taken to the same place that did my Mercury's engine rebuild, since they did such a good job and they seem a good professional bunch.
      I dropped it off Monday afternoon for a thorough check over to build up a list of work and get a rough quote.
      Today I heard back from them.
      Good news so far, I suppose. It is as solid where it counts as I thought it was. Chassis is fine, original strut tops fine, most of the back end is solid and just needs a few repairs here and there.
      The worst is the bottom of the windscreen surround due to the wrong seal being used and then fitted badly causing leaks. Inner sill to A post bottom corner very scabby, front wings pretty crap, and various paint defects etc.
      The engine is fine, compression all in tolerances. Suspension needs work, and some brake pipes are getting quite rusty. So far so good and no surprises!
      There's still more checking to do over the next few days but it sounds alright so far.
      This work should be made a bit easier by having a lot of panels and parts to fix things already. The big find being a new unused pair of front wings. Very hard to find mk2 items now, though I did have to pay for them!
       
       
      The plan here is to make the car solid, reliable and good looking. I'm not making a show car or going too mad as that stuffs not my thing and if it was I'd start with a better more original car.
      Some of the later add ons will be ditched like the mk3 boot spoiler that I hate! And return it to more standard looking mk2 as it should be. No go faster mods or anything like that.
      The main priority is to get the body sorted and painted properly (engine out job and everything) then maybe a bit of mechanical work as needed.
      The original idea was to re paint back into original stardust silver, but having thought about it I'm leaning more towards another favourite Ford colour of the era, Miami blue metallic, which is a lovely colour! Any opinions?
       
      This will be another expensive project but not one I think I could do at home on the drive and do justice to, so I'd prefer to farm it out and get it right this time. It also means I can carry on working on my Transit and Granada at home without another distraction!
      For anyone whose interested I'll try to update this now and then as things progress. I'll also try to get the old pics of the car from when I got it so you can see how rusty it was! Bear in mind though that I paid £100 for this car in 2001 with MOT and tax! Try doing that now.
      I'm sure this is going to be worth the expense, not that I'm even considering selling it of course but I've had it so long I kind of feel obligated to do right by the car in a weird way!
×
×
  • Create New...