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Volvo 740, interior headlining finished! Pg 23.


danthecapriman

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I need to replace the front drivers side indicator on the 940 due to cracking but have been reluctant to on the basis it probably will look much newer than the other side and stand out like a sore thumb, perhaps I'll follow suit and just buy a matching pair and stop being such a tight arse!

 

RE matrix flushing, a year or so back I had a Mk5 Fiesta with very little heat, my technique was to vacuum out any old coolant from the matrix using my Pela then fill the matrix with a bottle of cheap radiator flush product (Holts IIRC?) before topping it up and leaving it over night. I then set up a rig using a couple of heater hoses of the correct size for the outlet/inlet from the matrix of a breaker car cut down to about 6" in length each, one for each side, then stepped each one down using hose fittings and hose clamps and ran a garden hose to one side to fill from our outdoor tap and another hose to a clear 3l bottle so I could see what I had flushed out, swapping them over periodically. After half an hour's back and forth flushing it was clean and clear and heat returned  :)

 

A word to the wise, as I'm sure you're aware the matrix's aren't really designed to handle any real pressure and if you feel that it's likely corroded then even more need for care, if you do go down the hose route keep the pressure low and steady, this isn't the best weather to be removing a dash to replace a burst matrix! 

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Frik me, it’s not the day for pissing about with water! It’s freezing!

 

I got an early start on the heater problem today.

First thing was to at least check it wasn’t something stupid so I took off the lower drivers side dash cover to reveal the heater control valve. Operating the control knobs on the dash showed that to be operating as it should. That’s good as at least that’s ok, bad though because it means getting wet and dirty!

 

So I had to drain the system down, only went to just lower than the heater though. Old coolant is very clean.

The two heater hoses are a bit tight to get to.

 

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The lower hose clamp was a bastard to loosen. It was rusted to hell and not in an easy position to get off. I’ll replace them all for new after this though.

 

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Hoses off and the two heater matrix stubs are visible. Both of which look in decent enough condition but were visibly full of sludgy mank.

 

Next step was to find some spare heater hose I had in the shed. Attached a long length of that to each of the matrix stubs and try to blow through it.

Nothing! It’s blocked solid, and I was blowing hard too!

 

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Ok, hose pipe time.

Shoved that into one of the pipes and turn on. It must have filled the matrix as much as it could then pressurised and blew the hose out of the pipe showering me in ice cold water!

Take two, swapped the hose onto the other pipe and try the same. I could hear the pressure build up then suddenly it went and some revolting brown stinking crud started flowing out the other pipe!! Hurrah!

I’ve since continued hosing it through in alternating directions and the water is now flowing easily through and running clear which would suggest the blockage has now cleared.

Blowing through it just forces all the water out and there’s no resistance or pressure build up either so I think it’s ok now.

No leaks inside the car either! Fingers crossed the matrix is ok.

 

Next I’ll put it back together and fill it up with the rad flush and water only then run it up to temperature for a bit. Then drain down and replace the coolant.

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Are those the Depo replacement clusters? 

 

I found them to be a good quality lens and a good fit - both my 740 and 850 have had replacement lenses from them. I'd recommend a bit of silicone around the tops of them to prevent water ingress.

Indeed they are.

They are good lights for non oe’s. I used the same brand on my old saloon too.

I find changing them gives the car a bit of a freshen up and looks much tidier. Same with new number plates etc!

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There’s a lesson in this for all those out there that use those sodding stop leak additives!

 

DONT FUCKING USE THEM!!

 

The greasy mess left on the floor I’ve just washed out of this looks exactly like stop leak. It’s full of rubber and copper coloured tiny particles.

I’m 99% sure it’s this that’s blocked the tiny waterways inside the matrix.

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Wrong time of year for this! Way too cold! I can’t feel my fingers anymore but it’s now finished.

 

Everything went back together ok, put new jubilee clips on the two heater outlets to replace the shitty original ones. There’s few things as irritating as rusty seized jubilee clips in cold weather. Also replaced a similarly shit looking big one on the top rad hose while the system was empty.

 

I then refilled with the bottle of rad flush and water to top up. Ran it up to temperature on the drive - we have heat from the heater!!

I’ve given it a good thrash around the block too with the flush still in the system just to make sure it’s circulating and getting a chance to shift any crud inside.

Got home and drained the system out then rinsed it through with clean water. There was still a fair bit of shit that drained out in the water, lots of rusty particles and some more of the same rubbery copper coloured particles floating around in the water. Bloody stuff!

I’ve refilled with new blue antifreeze, ran up to temperature and bled it through and the heater now seems to work perfectly well. Nice hot air blowing through now.

 

Another successful job done and hopefully it’ll stay working well now.

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Nice work.

 

I'm with you on the K Seal / Bars Leak crap. Unless the car's basically a scrapper which you're not keeping otherwise these potions just clog things up and are hell to shift once they've been added. The Mini's had Bars Leak added at some point, and despite a thorough flush, new radiator and fresh coolant I can still see the greasy coppery bits in the water.

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Nice work.

 

I'm with you on the K Seal / Bars Leak crap. Unless the car's basically a scrapper which you're not keeping otherwise these potions just clog things up and are hell to shift once they've been added. The Mini's had Bars Leak added at some point, and despite a thorough flush, new radiator and fresh coolant I can still see the greasy coppery bits in the water.

When I first got this the coolant was rank! There was loads of that greasy coppery stuff in it but I flushed it all out, changed the rad etc etc. Yet it’s still obviously in there.

I noticed today there’s even still a bit in the expansion bottle despite the fact I’ve washed that thoroughly. Even now with the new coolant and the flush I bet there’s still some in the system.

Just have to keep an eye on it I suppose.

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More good news to report this morning.

 

After an entire 24hrs rain (heavy at times too) I can confirm this morning there are now no signs of water leaks in the boot! All dry and no drips anywhere.

So that’s two problems fixed, and both fairly easily too.

 

Next job will be the tail lights. If the weather stays dry...

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Just read through this a bit at a time over the last couple of days. Your 740 looks brilliant great work! You've given me motivation to get mine sorted, getting it running and mot'd are first on my New Years resolutions!

Thanks! It’s come a long way over the last few years considering it was about ready for the crusher when I got it!

 

Good luck with yours, the more of these going back on the road the better imho!

You got any pics of yours? Was yours the white estate?

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Yeah the white estate, you commented on it the last time I posted about it I'm sure. Radiator gave up and leaked atf into the coolant back in August... It had been my almost daily up to that point. Bought a modernish car to take over daily duties (Hyundai i800) but life *excuses* has got in the way of fixing the 740 and it's been left in the drive since. Apart from the obvious radiator repair or replacement, service and auto box flush and filter, I dont think it needs much else to get an mot and go back into use. I WILL get there in the new year!

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  • 1 month later...

Over a month on from the last exploits, all’s well with the brick! Heater still heating and roof still... not leaking!

 

Doesn’t mean my constant striving for improvement has stopped there however!

The next job on the hit list was a bit less expected, and I could have done without it really but such is life.

Back in the summer while I was out and about some impatient uncle fucker decided to pull out of a roadside gravel lay-by right across in front of me. They could have waited until after I’d passed as there was nothing behind me, but no.

Anyway the result was the Volvo getting showered in gravel kicked up off the pricks tyres as he floored his girly little Astra out of said lay-by. One particularly big lump striking the windscreen making a big chip. As you might imagine I was furious about that! I know these things happen but if the stupid twat had been patient and waited a few seconds to do his manoeuvre it needn’t have happened.

Then a few weeks later I was following a Transit tipper down the A27 and, yes, you guessed it, another dirty great lump of stone flew off his tyre and hit my windscreen. Unbelievably right in the same place! This time though it cracked the screen in a fair sized spider of shattered glass. BOLLOCKS! That time made absolutely sure of an MOT failure come March.

 

I left it a while as I couldn’t be arsed sorting it and it wasn’t that big a concern at the time but now it’s getting closer to MOT time I thought I’d best get it changed.

I got a local mobile glass guy to come out and do the job. Weather was good on the day too which was a bonus.

Glass came by next day delivery and I asked him to get the extra fittings kit with it (new clips etc for the surrounding trims). Fitting went well, took very little time actually and the weather was nice for a few days after too so the screen adhesive had a good chance to cure properly.

The old screen wasn’t the original either. It was an RAC glass replacement, and had been badly fitted apparently! Way too much adhesive used and it’d covered the interior A pillar trims in black sticky adhesive. Must admit, I did clean a lot of that off the interior trims when I first got the car. They’d also managed to mis-fit the exterior trim along the bottom of the screen which, after however many years has made the plastic twist. Which means now everything is fitted properly this time means that trim has a slight gap under it at one end. Hopefully it’ll twist back straight again given a bit of time?

Alls good though, there’s something quite nice about having a new crystal clear screen to look through! Although I’d rather have spent the £150 on something else!

 

I’ll leave this update with a winter shot from the other day when it’d snowed.

 

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Started straight up! And the heater was a pleasure too given the recent cold!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not sure if anyone’s left on here to read this update? Everyone seems far more interested in moaning at the mo!

 

If anyone is interested however,

Since it’s a lovely spring-like day down here I’ve finally fitted the new rear lights.

 

Old ones weren’t too bad tbh, and most people would probably have just left them. Not me though!

They were a mixed make pair and both had faded a bit and had dirt/grime in the lenses. The seals weren’t great either.

 

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Access to the estates rear lights aren’t quite as good as it is on the saloons! My big fat hands made it a bit of a struggle to get the retaining nuts and bulb holders out!

 

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Passenger side light was easy, the old light was even the same make as the new ones. Only three nuts to undo, pull the wires off the back and the light just lifts out. Ive cleaned the paintwork under the lights too, there was quite a bit of grime under there.

 

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While all this was in bits I’ve taken the time to strip all the bulb holders down, and clean them up. The contacts have all been cleaned up with a green scotch pad and on reassembly given a very light dab of silver electrically conductive grease. Should help everything to stay clean and corrosion free.

Reassembly was the reverse of removal. Only thing extra I’ve done was a bead of sealer around the light hole in the body and around the bolt holes, just to be sure it stays water proof.

 

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One down, one to go. New light on the left old on the right.

 

The drivers side light was a little bit different. This one was much older than the other and a different make.

Main difference was twice as much wiring in the back of it. On removal the reason why became clear.

 

Spot the difference!

 

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The old light hasn’t got the silver earth/common return bar. It looks like it did have one as the clips for it are all there but the bar is long gone.

Instead someone has cut the main earth wire back, crudely added another short length of wire to it (wrapped bare wires together and used electrical tape over the top!) then crimped a new connector on the end, with some extra loops crimped to that to individually connect each bulb holder together on their earth sides.

 

Here’s the wire in question.

 

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There’s nothing wrong with this, apart from the shit way they joined the new and old wires together. But, on these lights it makes the earth/return connections interfere with the good connection to the contact between light body and bulb holders on the new light units. Plus, on these cars the bulb failure warning lamp on the dash works by electrical balance side - side. So if the car picks up an imbalance when a bulb pops that difference is shown as a fault and the bulb fail light comes on.

Problem being that given all this bollocks basically works on resistance the current way things are means both sides of the car are currently wired differently. One side (drivers rear) has significantly more joins and connections in its wiring than the other side... this all adds resistance to the circuit. That piss poor connection mentioned above will also add extra resistance!

Funnily enough I’ve had a lot of problems with the bulb failure light coming on with this car, often with no bulbs actually faulty! Now we know why!

 

So on this light I’ve done exactly the same, cleaning everything up and using a tiny dab of contact grease on everything and reassembled the new light unit. It was harder on this side as all of the earth contacts on every bulb holder had been bent and mangled by whoever had fitted their ‘new and improved’ earth/return system!

To fix their shit wiring I’ve just cut it off entirely, soldered on a new length of wire to replace it with a single spade connector on the end to go onto the one and only connector on the back of the new lights earth bar. Much better and much tidier.

 

Both new lights fitted. I’ll leave them as they are for now then after a few months try retightening the fixings as the new sealing rubbers were quite stiff! Hopefully they’ll settle a bit after a while.

 

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They look way nicer imho.

Tested and all working now too, with no bulb failure light illuminated on the dash!

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It's the little things than make all the difference, so much the better if you managed to do a bit of 'reverse bodging' along the way RE the wiring!

 

The car looks good as usual, new lights can only help.

 

I meant to ask you how your heated rear screen is? Mine literally only works on a couple of strips unfortunately :(

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Thanks guys! Nice to know people are actually reading this!

The lights actually look much nicer in real life rather than the photos. They just look really clean and fresh, it’s like just giving the car a bit of a facelift to smarten it up after 30 years.

 

It's the little things than make all the difference, so much the better if you managed to do a bit of 'reverse bodging' along the way RE the wiring!

 

The car looks good as usual, new lights can only help.

 

I meant to ask you how your heated rear screen is? Mine literally only works on a couple of strips unfortunately :(

Haha! Full house here on my heated window! Seems to work really well actually.

Can you still buy those repair kits for heated screens? Maybe that might work if you’ve got broken tracks on yours?

My old saloon had a heated rear screen but it was one of those ones like heated windscreens have with loads of tiny tiny heater elements in it. Trouble was, the bottom corner of the glass was cracked leaving a good few inches of the heaters not working. Ok in the saloon though as the really good heater heated the cabin up quickly. The estates being bigger take longer to warm up the cabin space.

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Volvos and capris? Are we twins or something? Looking veeerrrryy nice......

Possibly, one things certain though. We have exceptional taste!!

 

 

Btw Volvo lickerz, I bought one of these kits https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-TAILGATE-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-740-850-940-960-V70-V90-ESTATE-CARS/382775556382?hash=item591f33791e:g:qzYAAOSwlL1ax0RK

 

It’s to repair the tailgate interior trims on most estate Volvo’s from the 700 onwards. On mine the top of the trim was loose and was thumping against the tailgate glass every time you close the tailgate.

I’ve fitted this kit to mine this afternoon (camera battery was flat, soz!). Dead easy to fit and makes a hell of a difference. If yours does this it’s probably because the plastic standoff’s that are meant to stop it happening have broken off inside the trim panel letting it move more than it should. It usually happens because the tailgate gets slammed down too hard! The kit reinforces the broken standoff’s with metal screwed in place and has new clips with more of a shape to them to stop any movement.

Only downside to mine was the screws supplied are supposedly self tapping but I needed to drill pilot holes to get them in, no big deal though.

Highly recommended!

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Haha! Full house here on my heated window! Seems to work really well actually.

 

 

Guess it's just me then.

 

I'm pretty sure the windscreen bods that my paint guy had remove the rear screen to repair the biffed in tailgate busted some element of the heating function on mine, I was regaled with tales of woe RE what a "Bastard of a job" getting the screen out had been and they'd damaged a couple of trim bits to prove the point.

 

I had a bit of a grumble RE the trim bits at the time but didn't go to town as I've spent a long time cultivating a relationship with the bodyshop, I get away with paying trade prices and their work is to a high standard. This was the fourth or fifth job I've had them do and all others have been fine.

 

The problem I have is I hadn't tested the screen before it went in having just bought the car and it being the height of summer so I've no way of knowing for certain!

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Guess it's just me then.

 

I'm pretty sure the windscreen bods that my paint guy had remove the rear screen to repair the biffed in tailgate busted some element of the heating function on mine, I was regaled with tales of woe RE what a "Bastard of a job" getting the screen out had been and they'd damaged a couple of trim bits to prove the point.

 

I had a bit of a grumble RE the trim bits at the time but didn't go to town as I've spent a long time cultivating a relationship with the bodyshop, I get away with paying trade prices and their work is to a high standard. This was the fourth or fifth job I've had them do and all others have been fine.

 

The problem I have is I hadn't tested the screen before it went in having just bought the car and it being the height of summer so I've no way of knowing for certain!

I wouldn’t be too hard on them, the plastics and trim used on these cars hasn’t aged too well unfortunately! It seems to go brittle and explodes into a million bits if you so much as look at them funny! When they did my new windscreen one of the screen surround trims got a bit chewed up. It’s a shame, but you can’t help it sadly with old plastic.

You should be able to get a new rear screen fairly easy I’d have thought? That should sort the problem.

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Looks superb! Really nice work Dan and well worth the effort. This car just gets better and better!

 

Andy

I've had the pleasure of meeting this car, and I can confirm, it is a lovely example.  Had Dan not saved it, one that would probably have gone to scrap, so even better!

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