Oil in turbo hot side - Now I have 2 successfully split :]

[garbaldy]

An engineer neighbour who has fallen on troubled times decided to fit a turbo rebuild kit on his wife's vitara, he was fair chuffed with his money saving right up untill the cars first journey to her work when after 6 miles it returned on the back of an rac truck,

When I looked at it the shaft had ripped itself apart and the engine had went into running on its engine oil and grenaded, wife went doolaly and is still using my 206 today after I said they could use it until they sorted another motor, this was four months ago now.

[Dave_Q]

Well yes, that is the worst case scenario, but it could be that your mate put it back together wrong, didn't use the right locknut torque, or did something else wrong.

 

I can tell you that while the turbo manufacturers official line is that they must be balanced, lots are sold into developing markets eg India and China, and let's say they don't have a turbo rebuild shop with a high speed balancing rig on every street corner.

 

If a truck breaks down in the back of beyond do they wait for a new turbo, or take the old one hundreds of miles to be refurbed? Do they bollocks, they rebuild it in a bucket of pez by the side of the road. 99% of the time it will be fine, but there is still a small risk it will go wrong of course.

[overrun]

I still haven't ordered the kit.

[overrun]

Damn this thing will not come apart!

 

I had a go at it last week with a mate, after removing the V Band clamp, we managed to eventually open up the gap by about 0.5mm. Enough for the release oil to soak in, but after laying into the turbine side for a couple of hours, it was decided more heat was the answer.

 

So today I took it to my uncle's workshop, got the oxy acetylene on the case and still no joy!

I have left it there and asked him to wail on it.

Nowt to lose.

 

 

And check out the exchange/recon prices...

 

 

I have the rebuild kit here, but this bastard CT20B may as well be a door stop, atm.

Looks like I will be whipping the one off the blue breaker, and running and/or rebuilding that at this rate.

[overrun]

3 hours at me sisters (where the blue breaker is being 'stored') and I have another CT20B in me grubby mitts.

The radial play on this one is very minor and I can feel none, axially. Plus, no sign of oil in compressor or turbine side.

 

Still, if it will crack open with the oxy acetylene, it is getting the refurb kit thrown on.

 

 

I carted a load of tools up and  made a right mess. She'd kill me, apparently if she had seen it. Looks tidy to me, no oil or coolant etc on ground! Can't see the jack, back box, B pipe, engine lid, inspection panel, charge cooler core, hoses, air filter etc etc in this pic. Hmmm maybe there was a bit more spread about, then.

 

 

(OMG Halfords screw and torx drivers - plus precision ones, not in shot)

 

Looks better!

[Dave_Q]

It's odd that the old one won't come apart, I think the official service manual procedure is just to hit it with a medium to big hammer repeatedly.

[overrun]

It's odd that the old one won't come apart, I think the official service manual procedure is just to hit it with a medium to big hammer repeatedly.

 

Oh, mate it's a right stubborn bastard! It has seen some serious heat and even had extension bars brayed against the compressor, bars inserted in it, been smacked with hammers and mallets, seen cold chisels, wood chisels and screw drivers come and go...

 

It smashed a wooden mallet of my mates (hopeful and gentle first separation attempts) and when we were twatting it with the ball pein, it was leaving it's mark, so there is only so hard it can be hit without it totally becoming a door stop.

That said, if we were at mine I would have used a copper mallet...

 

Hopefully it is just a bastard of a one.

I still plan to have it 'inspected' for 40 quid or so and rebuild it at some stage though.

 

I wonder how the pro's split em? All I can picture is heat and hammers. Nowt I haven't got?

[Dave_Q]

Not even that really, at work they only ever need to tap them fairly gently with copper head mallets, ours are much bigger though.

 

 

I would try rotation rather than prying, see if you can bolt or clamp the turbine inlet flange to something then stick a broom handle, jack handle etc in the comp inlet and try to turn, theoretically it's only stuck together with rust/friction between the turbine housing and bearing housing and it should come apart once you can get it to shift.

[overrun]

When I tried that, the compressor turns, but not at the join.

I was just gonna end up doing irrepairable damage lol.

[Dave_Q]

Ah OK, then see if you can fabricate something to bolt to the oil inlet or outlet and try the same thing. 

 

It might feel like it's gonna break but it's unlikely that you'd actually break either of the housings.

 

Got to be worth a try if it's scrap anyway.

[overrun]

Ah OK, then see if you can fabricate something to bolt to the oil inlet or outlet and try the same thing. 

 

It might feel like it's gonna break but it's unlikely that you'd actually break either of the housings.

 

Got to be worth a try if it's scrap anyway.

Agreed, mate. Cheers for the tips!

[overrun]

Spoilt for choice now, as thanks to lots of heat from the oxy acetylene and even more nylon hammer action, they are both now separated.

 

Will do the same to the CT26 at some stage.

 

The low mileage turbo from the red car is caked with carbon. The blue cars is a lot cleaner.